Welcome back to yet another installment of Backyard Tourism. Like every other article in the series, we’ll be taking a look at a true hidden gem this time. As always, the goal is to showcase how just about anywhere in Japan has the potential for inbound tourism if the mix of marketing and storytelling is properly nailed. Today, we’ll be taking a look at the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo. Situated around 40 minutes outside of central Kagoshima City on the grounds of Kamo Hachimangu, this towering timber is said to be one of the tallest trees of its kind in all of Japan.
Now, if you know your Kagoshima, you’ll already be aware that the prefecture is home to some truly ancient trees. Of course, chief among these is Yakushima’s famed Jomon Sugi, a large Cryptomeria tree on one of the Satsunan Islands that is said to be around five millennia old. To put that into context, 5,000 years ago is around the time when Sumerian city-states like Uruk started to become more established and humans began devising early forms of writing such as cuneiform. Now that is an ancient tree if I do say so myself.
In contrast to the antediluvian Jomon Sugi to the south, the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo is but a mere baby. Estimated to be only around 1,500 years old, this specimen still comes in at a whopping 30 meters tall. As we’ll see in a second, the tree exists inside the shrine grounds of Kamo Hachimangu, one of the 44,000 branch shrines of Usa Jingu that are dedicated to the war god Hachiman. Especially during the months of autumn, which come much later than one might expect in Kagoshima, the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo and Kamo Hachimangu are truly a sight to behold.
Is it worth going out of your way just to visit the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo? Well, that is a question you’ll need to answer for yourself. If you have a rental car at your disposal and love seeing ancient lifeforms like this, then yes, you definitely ought to add it to your Kyushu itinerary if you happen to be in town. For those of you who need to schlep your behinds around on public transportation like I did, know that the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo is doable, but you need to plan your departures.
How to Get There
This seems like as good a time as any to talk about how one might get to this giant camphor tree. At the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious here, you’re going to want to first begin by finding your way down to Kagoshima Prefecture. For most of you, this will mean a flight down from Tokyo or Osaka, but if you’re looking to milk that Japan Rail Pass or a regional alternative, know that you can also take the Shinkansen down to Kagoshima-Chuo Station.
From downtown Kagoshima, there are a number of methods of reaching the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo, and which one is the most expedient depends largely on when you’re departing. Thus, I recommend that you refer to Google Maps for directions, as it will do the best job of calculating the buses for you. Personally, I always use Jorudan for trains, but it isn’t as convenient when it comes to buses, as the app does not have access to your real-time location.
If you can, I suggest you start the day by dropping by Sengan-en. This traditional Japanese garden was formerly a residence of the powerful Shimazu clan that ruled over this part of the country for centuries. A must-visit when in Kagoshima, Sengan-en combines surprisingly well with the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo, as there is a noontime bus that will take you all the way to the entrance of the Kamo Hachimangu shrine grounds.
Kamo Hachimangu & the Giant Camphor Tree
All things considered, Kamo Hachimangu isn’t the biggest shrine out there. While the complex is indeed quite spacious, the main hall is rather modest compared to grander shrines (as can be seen in the image above). That said, the behemoth-sized Great Camphor Tree of Kamo takes up a huge portion of the shrine grounds. Sitting to the left of Kamo Hachimangu’s main hall, the shape of this 1,500-year-old tree dominates much of the space. It’s really quite the sight to behold.
Though there really isn’t much to do here at Kamo Hachimangu after you pay your respects to the deity of war enshrined within, per se, you can spend a good hour just marveling at the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo. There are a number of stone benches strewn about the complex where you can pop a squat and gaze up at the elderly tree. There is also a wooden walkway that goes around the base of the trunk, allowing you to get up close to the huge camphor tree and bask in its power.
If you need some time to kill while waiting for the bus, there is also the Kamo Visitor Koryu Center that you can check out. This small facility is located on the opposite side of the street from the torii gate that marks the approach to Kamo Hachimangu. Inside, you’ll find a small curation about the rural region’s history, as well as a shop selling local goods. There are some tables, vending machines, and bathrooms here too, making it a good spot to wait out the return bus.
Other Nearby Attractions
No trip to the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo is going to be done in isolation. As great as the site is, it alone does not justify a trip down to Kagoshima. So, you’re going to want to pair the ancient tree with some of the other amazing allures in town. Luckily, Kagoshima is a prefecture that has these in spades. In addition to the aforementioned garden of Sengan-en, you will definitely also want to drop by the volcanic island of Sakurajima in Kagoshima Bay, as well as explore the nightlife of Tenmonkan.
For the foodies out there, know that Kagoshima is legendary for both its beef and its local Berkshire pork. So, assuming you’re not bound by veganism, you’re definitely going to want to indulge in either of these delicious delicacies. From sizzling yakiniku joints to humble local eateries serving up melt-in-your-mouth cuts of pork, Kagoshima punches well above its weight when it comes to food. Just be mindful of making reservations as I found many of the top places had long waits.
Finally, over in the city of Aira where the Great Camphor Tree of Kamo is located, there are a few understated historical and cultural spots worth checking out as well. Kamo Hachimangu itself is one of the most important landmarks in the area, and the surrounding Kamo district has long been tied to local Shinto worship and agriculture. Not too far away, you can also find remnants of the old Kamo post town that once served travelers moving through this part of Kagoshima during the Edo period (1603–1868).
While Aira does not have any other real blockbuster attractions, there are still a few notable spots, such as Shigetomi Beach. This sandy stretch sits along Kagoshima Bay and is a nice place for a quiet stroll on a clear day, offering solid views out toward Sakurajima. Spending a bit of time exploring the area gives you a better sense of the region’s deep-rooted history and helps make the journey out to the camphor tree feel a bit more fleshed out.
Until next time travelers…
