You know, I’m probably going to catch some hate for this one, but the Mitama Festival is honestly one of my favorite events in all of Japan. Signaling the start of summer and the long procession of Obon celebrations to follow, this festival of lights kicks off the season in the capital every July. Thanks to the myriad of glowing lanterns honoring the souls lost in service of Japan, the whole affair is a hauntingly beautiful spectacle that more than justifies braving the punishing summer heat. The only problem is that the festivities are held at none other than the ever-controversial Yasukuni Shrine in central Tokyo.
For those not already aware, Yasukuni Shrine is an interesting place, to say the least. Originally established in 1869 at the behest of the Meiji emperor, the sanctuary began life as Tokyo Shokonsha, a site honoring those who died in the Boshin War, before taking on its current name a decade later in 1879. Since its inception, Yasukuni Shrine has been dedicated to those who have served in Japan’s military. It is currently home to nearly 2.5 million men, women, and children, along with memorial statues honoring the war horses, dogs, and even carrier pigeons that served beside them. Today, the approach is marked by a massive steel torii gate that stands roughly 25 meters tall and ranked as Japan’s largest when first erected in 1921.
The shrine continues to pop up on the international radar due to the fact that among the millions enshrined at Yasukuni Shrine, there are over 1,000 convicted war criminals from World War II. In particular, 14 of these have been identified as “Class-A” offenders and include notorious figures such as Tojo Hideki, the wartime prime minister who authorized the attack on Pearl Harbor. Interestingly, these men were only added to the rolls in 1978 during a secret ceremony, a move that did not sit well with the imperial family. In fact, no emperor has set foot in Yasukuni Shrine since. As such, whenever a prominent Japanese politician pays a visit, an international media firestorm is all but guaranteed.
Regardless of where you may fall on the issue, the shrine hosts a stunningly beautiful summer event known as the Mitama Festival. Held annually in mid-July to mark the start of Tokyo’s Obon season, the festival is famous for the 30,000 lanterns (both large and small) that illuminate the pathway leading to the shrine. First celebrated in 1947, the event is meant to honor the spirits of the war dead and give thanks for the peace and prosperity their sacrifices helped bring. The warm glow of the lanterns is said to guide and comfort the souls enshrined within Yasukuni Shrine.
How to Get There
Yasukuni Shrine is located in central Tokyo, near the northern edge of the Imperial Palace grounds. The easiest way to get there is by taking the Hanzomon Line to Kudanshita Station. From the station, it’s only a short walk to the entrance path that leads to the shrine. If you’re coming from an area better served by the Nanboku Line, Ichigaya Station is also only around 10 minutes away on foot. As always, consult a route planning app like Jorudan or a similar service to determine the most convenient line for you.
As for planning and slotting the celebration into your Japan travel itinerary, know that the Mitama Festival is always held from July 13 to July 16 each year and often marks the start of summer. While that means things can get hot and sweaty with all the attendees, it’s also one of the reasons you might want to brave the sultry months of the year. Though many say it’s the worst time to visit, it’s also when many of Japan’s best festivals take place, so the heat is something of a necessary evil.
Speaking of summer, know that July and August can be downright brutal, so come prepared. Wear something breathable and don’t underestimate the power of a good pair of walking shoes. There’s a lot of standing around, especially if you plan to catch the processions. A handheld fan or one of those cold gel packs you can pick up at any convenience store will go a long way in keeping you cool. And while there are plenty of vending machines nearby, it’s never a bad idea to bring a bottle of water just in case.
The History of the Mitama Festival
As touched on above, the Mitama Festival dates all the way back to 1947, a mere two years after the end of World War II, when Japan was still under Allied occupation. The name comes from the Japanese word mitama, which refers to the honored spirits of the departed. Conceived as a way for grieving families to comfort the souls enshrined at Yasukuni Shrine with light, the event has been held annually ever since on the same fixed dates of July 13 to 16, save for a single pandemic-era cancellation in 2020. If that timing seems oddly specific, know that Tokyo observes Obon, the yearly homecoming of ancestral spirits, in mid-July. Most of the rest of Japan celebrates a month later in August.
Central to everything are of course the lanterns. Every July, upwards of 30,000 of them are mounted on towering steel frames that flank the walkway leading up to the shrine. The large yellow paper lanterns forming the glowing outer walls are each dedicated by a donor, with names inked in black down their faces. Meanwhile, smaller lanterns illuminate the inner precincts closer to the main hall. Rather than mere decoration, every single one of these lights represents an individual offering, with many coming from bereaved relatives, veterans’ associations, and other supporters hailing from all across Japan.
Of all the lights on display, the most unique are arguably the roughly 300 bonbori that are hand-painted each year by well-known figures from the worlds of art, entertainment, politics, and sumo. Displayed near the main sanctuary, this collection makes for a rather eclectic open-air gallery. Elsewhere on the grounds, you’ll spot colorful Sendai Tanabata streamers hanging at the great gate. All told, the four days of festivities draw more than 100,000 visitors annually. Even so, the celebration retains its religious core, with formal rites conducted in Yasukuni Shrine’s main hall at 5:00 PM each evening.
What to See at the Mitama Festival
Once you arrive at the Mitama Festival, you’re in for a real visual feast. The lanterns, some towering and others strung delicately along the walkways, are typically lit from early evening until about 9:30 PM, after which security staff will begin asking people to leave the premises. Though the festival runs for several days, crowds tend to peak as the sun sets on the first day, so arriving a bit early is a good idea if you’re hoping to snap photos without a sea of people in the frame.
In addition to the lanterns, the Mitama Festival features a range of cultural performances and processions. Expect to see traditional Bon Odori dances, raucous mikoshi parades, and dramatic floats inspired by Aomori’s famous Nebuta Festival. You might also stumble upon taiko drumming, yosakoi dancing, folk music performances, and even the occasional brass band. It’s quite the smorgasbord of Japan’s deep traditions and various other performing arts from around the world.
Food lovers won’t be disappointed either. While classic festival stalls have become less common in recent years, a fleet of food trucks has stepped in to offer favorites like takoyaki, yakisoba, kakigori, and Japanese fried chicken. Whether you’re there for the photos, the food, or simply to experience a lesser-known slice of Japanese culture, the Mitama Festival is one of Tokyo’s summer highlights. Unfortunately, the eats do tend to draw a crowd, so expect to wait in line.
Is the Mitama Festival Worth It?
By now, some of you may be wondering whether the Mitama Festival is really worth braving both the summer swelter and the site’s political baggage. As I already confessed at the top of this article, my answer is a resounding yes. Tokyo has no shortage of summer happenings, yet very little on the calendar can match the sight of 30,000 lanterns blazing against the night sky smack dab in the middle of the city. Considering that entry is completely free and that the celebration reliably runs on the same four dates every single year, it’s also one of the easiest major Japanese events to actually plan a trip around.
Though the event is meant to honor the spirits of the fallen, and that can certainly come with some controversy, it manages to do so in a way that’s both accessible and inviting. The festive energy is palpable, yet somehow still reverent of those who have given up everything in the service of Japan. It’s an elegant balancing act that feels uniquely Japanese. Whether you’re a history buff, a cultural enthusiast, or just someone chasing a good summer vibe, the Mitama Festival is absolutely worth penciling into your Tokyo itinerary.
By the way, due to Yasukuni Shrine’s complicated reputation, you’ll likely notice a high-profile police presence during the event. It’s nothing to worry about—just something to keep in mind if you’re not used to large-scale events with uniformed security. Seeing as you’ll already be in the area, consider rounding out your visit with a daytime stroll through the nearby Koishikawa Korakuen, one of Tokyo’s finest traditional gardens, before returning to watch the lanterns come alive at dusk.
Until next time travelers…
