In the fall of 2024, I was invited by the powers that be to join a two-day monitor tour. Our destination was a region known as Hanbara, nestled in the semi-rural town of Aikawa. Located in northern Kanagawa Prefecture, this charming hamlet is home to the Hambara Miya-Daiku Guild — one of the foremost groups of traditional Japanese carpenters in the entire country. For centuries, these skilled artisans have played a vital role in constructing shrines, temples, and other traditional wooden structures across Japan. Most notably, the craftsmen of Hanbara were entrusted with overseeing the construction of Edo Castle, the Tokugawa shogunate’s former seat of power.
Though definitely tucked far off the beaten path, Hanbara is brimming with hidden gems waiting to be explored. What’s more, the region’s lush natural environment offers a refreshing contrast to the chaos of nearby Tokyo. Pristine rivers wind through the heart of the town, which is bordered by the towering Tanzawa Mountain Range, with peaks soaring over 1,000 meters high. Historically, this part of Japan has been a place where people could sense the divine in every tree, waterfall, and mountain. It’s this deep reverence for nature — infused with a spiritual essence — that ultimately gave birth to the artisanal tradition now known as Hanbara Miya-Daiku.
All throughout Hanbara, you’ll find countless examples of these residential carpenters’ work. From temple buildings like the towering gate of Shoraku-ji to the woodwork that went into the durable house of a wealthy farmer and a renowned teahouse, there are a ton of carpentry masterpieces in Hanbara. While some are indeed challenging to get to without your own set of wheels, I highly encourage anyone with the means and ability to drive to make the rounds to some of these properties. The wood buildings are truly exemplary of the Miya-daiku craft and are a perfect fusion of art and history.
Moving forward, we’ll be using the word Miya-daiku quite a bit, so for those unfamiliar with the term, let’s take a quick moment to highlight the definition. Essentially, Miya-daiku refers to traditional Japanese carpenters who specialize in the construction and restoration of properties such as shrines and temples. These master artisans use centuries-old techniques with astounding precision — most notably kigumi, or traditional joinery, which connects pieces of lumber without the use of nails or modern tools. It’s a fascinating fun fact that surprisingly few foreign tourists are aware of.
Note that since I had originally only been planning to create this post or my Instagram page, I didn’t actually take any horizontal shots. Ultimately, with a few days left until cherry blossom season this year — and because I was genuinely impressed by Hanbara — I decided that this place deserved its own article. Alas, since blogging wasn’t part of the original deliverables, I figured I should explain the oddly cropped images, which were pulled from screenshots of my vertical video clips, before we dive any further into the details…
How to Get There
Let’s pause for a second and cover some key logistics. As noted above, Hanbara is located in the town of Aikawa in northern Kanagawa Prefecture. While it will depend on where in Hanbara you plan on heading first, you can generally accomplish the task of getting there by taking the train out to somewhere like Hon-Atsugi Station. (In the future, refer to a service like Jorudan for schedules, as this method makes working out the correct train a breeze.) From there, you’ll need to make use of buses to get around to all of the various spots — unless you have a rental car.
On the surface, the process of getting around Hanbara might seem like the proverbial nail in the coffin when it comes to this hidden gem — at least inasmuch as international travelers would be concerned. Typically, I’d be inclined to agree, but luckily, there is an easy way to explore Hanbara. You see, the best way to get some logistical support is to simply head on over to this website and book the now-completed tour that I had originally been tasked with vetting. This will make getting past the problem of navigating the buses a non-issue when visiting.
Finally, I want to point out that if you’d like to stay the night in the area, I highly suggest Ryokan Daishinkan. This high-class traditional inn is the perfect place to immerse yourself in Japanese wooden architecture and culture. With its polished corridors, sturdy pillars, and cozy tatami rooms, Daishinkan offers that classic ryokan charm, but with an added touch of elegance. The meals here are another highlight — they take great pride in using seasonal, locally sourced ingredients. Oh, and did I mention the views? The open-air baths overlook the surrounding mountains and rivers, making for a truly unforgettable soak after a long day of exploring Hanbara.
The Hambara Miya-Daiku Workshop
If you’re heeding my advice and venturing to Hanbara via tour, you’ll get to experience the Hambara Miya-Daiku Workshop. Here, you’ll learn all about this school of traditional Japanese carpentry from a young master who has inherited the spirit of the Hanbara Miya-Daiku practice. At the workshop, you’ll be introduced to the intricate art of traditional Japanese carpentry that allows wooden structures to be assembled without the use of nails or modern fasteners. This method requires a profound understanding of the natural properties of timber, enabling craftsmen to create enduring and aesthetically pleasing structures that can last for a millennium.
During your visit, you’ll have the rare opportunity to try your hand at using a kanna, the traditional Japanese plane. By pulling these bladed wedges across the surface of wood, this chisel can smooth planks to within a millimeter, making the wood both thin and waterproof. Under the guidance of the master carpenter, you’ll experience firsthand the skill and patience required to achieve such precision, as he teaches you the working technique that has been passed down for centuries. While the process looks simple, it requires proper management of one’s body and joints to maintain consistent pulling pressure.
Additionally, after working with the kanna, you’ll also get a chance to see how kigumi works. These joinery techniques come in all shapes and sizes and are key to the practice of Miya-daiku. The method involves shaping wooden pieces into precise geometric forms that interlock like a three-dimensional puzzle. It’s an intricate process that demands serious foresight and planning, as the complexity of the joints can make them surprisingly difficult to assemble — or disassemble. Watching how these puzzle-like connections come together without the use of nails is a real eye-opener and a true testament to the ingenuity of traditional Japanese carpentry.
One thing I should not leave out is that the Hambara Miya-Daiku Workshop is usually off-limits to the public, since the craftsmen are busy with the demanding task of completing the shrines and temples they’ve been commissioned to build. While they’re normally hard at work, they’ve made time for anyone visiting as part of this tour. So, if you’re a fan of Japanese carpenters and want to meet one in person, do yourself a favor and book this offer while you can.
Examples Wooden Structures in Hanbara
As I’ve mentioned before in the introductory sections of this blog post, there are ample examples of the working skill of Hanbara’s Miya-daiku craftsmen to explore in this part of Japan. While it’s one thing to see the carpentry techniques and tools up close at the Hambara Miya-Daiku Workshop, it’s another to witness the completed constructions in all their glory. The following is a list of noteworthy buildings in Hanbara that have been crafted by the local carpenters in the region:
- Shoraku-ji
A stunning example of Miya-daiku craftsmanship, this temple’s majestic Zen-style gate was built by local carpenters at the end of the Edo period (1603–1868). Pictured above, it blends harmoniously with the surrounding cedar groves and showcases the artistry of traditional temple architecture. - Yamaju Residence
This complex is a stately mansion from the Meiji period (1868–1912) that was originally built for a wealthy farmer. It features massive wooden beams, a traditional hearth, and a beautiful veranda — perfectly highlighting the everyday application of Miya-daiku techniques and skills. - Ryufuku-ji
This temple gate features the distinctive Ryu-gu-mon style that was popular during the rule of the Tokugawa shogunate. Its elegant curves and decorative elements are a testament to the finesse of Hanbara’s shrine carpenters. - Nakano Shrine
This historic shrine, nestled in a serene cedar forest, was built by Hanbara Miya-daiku carpenters. Tour participants can go beyond the usual shrine visit by donning traditional attire, taking part in a formal Shinto ritual, and learning directly from the head priest about the shrine’s architecture and spiritual significance.
Making your way to all of these buildings that are superb examples of Miya-daiku carpentry will take more time than it’s worth if you don’t have access to a rental car or something. Thus, at the risk of sounding like a broken record or something, just purchase the tour to get access to the logistical support that was created to facilitate transportation throughout Hanbara for participants.
Other Nearby Attractions
Before closing the book on this Hanbara exposé, allow me to mention two final spots of interest in the area. The first of these is the Sagami Carpentry Tools Museum. Found here, the facility has an incredible collection of chisels, hammers, kanna wedges, etc., that were used by Japanese carpenters to turn raw and rustic materials like lumber into the joinery and pillars of various buildings. The collection is all the property of the owner, who is a bit of a legend among carpenters, and the Sagami Carpentry Tools Museum draws visitors from all over the globe.
The second spot worth checking out before leaving Hanbara is the Kubota Sake Brewery. This family-owned operation offers an enlightening tour where visitors can learn about the traditional sake-making process and sample a variety of richly flavored sakes that reflect the natural climate of the region. As a fun bonus for fans of Japanese television and ninja lore, this very brewery served as a filming location for the hit series House of Ninjas. It’s a great way to cap off your exploration of Hanbara with a taste of local craftsmanship — this time in liquid form.
Until next time travelers…
