I originally visited the city of Kumagaya in Saitama Prefecture as part of a five-day tour in the lead-up to the 2019 Rugby World Cup. Arranged by the powers that be, the objective of this FAM trip was to promote nearby attractions that would be relevant to the sporting event. And, seeing as Kumagaya is basically a mecca for the sport of rugby, you better believe it was included on the list. You can check out the article that came out of those five days here, but my short time in Kumagaya left me feeling like something was missing.
Fast forward to this year, and I suddenly found myself with an odd weekend free and no real plans on where to go. Not wanting to venture too far from home, I remembered that I still hadn’t done the city proper justice. While I did return in 2023 for cherry blossom season (more on that in a bit), there were still many spots in Kumagaya I had yet to check out. So, with all of my work trips as a creator wrapped for the year until Q3, I decided to head back to Kumagaya.
Now, if you’ve ever heard of Kumagaya before, it’s likely because the city has a reputation for extreme heat, having broken temperature records multiple times. At the risk of sounding like Captain Obvious here, this means that summers can get quite hot—like, dangerously hot. While that might seem like a good reason to write off Kumagaya entirely, one reason to brave the sweltering temperatures is the amazing Kumagaya Uchiwa Festival, which is held in late July.
Of course, Kumagaya’s most compelling allure has to be Menuma Shodenzan Kangiin. Located to the north of the city center, this temple complex is often hailed as the “Nikko of Saitama.” The ever-impressive structure is just as ostentatious as the famed Nikko Toshogu Shrine — but without the hordes of visitors that usually flock there. The temple stands as a testament to the area’s historical wealth, which was largely the result of Kumagaya’s strategic location by the Tonegawa, as well as its former status as a Nakasendo post town.
Though I’ll admit that Kumagaya isn’t the kind of place that appeals to everyone, this city in Saitama is definitely well off the radar for most overseas tourists. Rugby fans aside (and boy oh boy, does it have some local ruby fans), Kumagaya is a great hidden gem to keep in your back pocket if you’re ever in need of an easy escape from the legions now besieging Japan’s mainstream attractions thanks to overtourism. What’s more, it easily slots into any itinerary heading toward Nagano or Hokuriku.
How to Get There
Let’s take a quick pause to go over some key logistics. As noted, Kumagaya is located in northern Saitama Prefecture and was formerly a post town along the Nakasendo — the highway that once connected Kyoto with what is now modern-day Tokyo. These days, it’s a bullet train stop along the Hokuriku Shinkansen. Alas, not all trains stop at Kumagaya Station, so unless you’re on one of the slower Shinkansen services, you’ll just jet right on by. That said, if you have one of JR’s regional rail passes, this is by far the most expedient way to get there.
For most people without a pass, the simplest way to reach Kumagaya Station is via the JR Takasaki Line, which runs up toward Gunma. Assuming you’re coming from central Tokyo, the ride will take just around an hour and a half. That said, I recommend using a service like Jorudan to check departure times — it’ll make planning your trains a whole lot easier. If you’ve got the coinage to spare, I’d suggest splurging on a Green Car seat — it’s a much more enjoyable ride that way without being packed into the train car with other commuters like sardines.
Once you’re in Kumagaya, you’ll either be walking to nearby points of interest or hopping on a bus. If it’s the latter, just know that the bus stop is located right outside Kumagaya Station’s northern exit. Figuring out which bus to take can be a bit confusing, so I’ll try to include a Google Maps link to the correct stop whenever it’s needed in this piece.
The Menuma Shodenzan Kangiin Temple Complex
If you’re going to come to Kumagaya, Menuma Shodenzan Kangiin is one of the primary reasons you’d make that choice. Simply put, it’s the most high-profile allure in this part of the Kanto region. The impressive temple complex is every bit as ostentatious as Nikko Toshogu Shrine. The national treasure stands as a bold testament to the historical economic clout of the area — a prosperity that was largely due to Kumagaya’s strategic location near the Tonegawa, as well as its former role as a key post town along the old Nakasendo route. Unlike the Nikko Toshogu Shrine, which was lavishly bankrolled by the shogunate, Menuma Shodenzan Kangiin was funded entirely by the local population. That in itself says a lot about just how well-off the area was back in the day.
Allegedly, Menuma Shodenzan Kangiin’s roots go all the way back to 1179, when a local lord established a small sanctum dedicated to Kangiten, the Buddhist deity of unity and success. Fast forward a few centuries to 1760, and the humble beginnings were expanded into the elaborate masterpiece you see today — one that could easily rival Tokugawa Ieyasu’s own final resting place in terms of detail and grandeur. Menuma Shodenzan Kangiin is considered one of Japan’s three great temples dedicated to Kangiten. Inside the main hall, the principal images of worship — a priestly staff and a statue of the deity — are generally kept out of public view. These days, the main attraction is the stunning exterior, adorned with incredibly intricate carvings that will have you staring for far longer than you expected.
That said, getting to Menuma Shodenzan Kangiin can be a bit of a challenge for tourists. You’ll need to take a bus from Kumagaya Station, and navigation isn’t exactly the most foreigner-friendly experience. From the bus stop just outside the station’s northern exit, you’ll want to look for a bus headed toward Ota Station, Menuma Shoden-mae, or Nishi-Koizumi Station. All of these routes pass by the Menuma Shoden-mae stop, which is where you’ll want to get off. The whole ride takes about twenty-five minutes, but be warned — English guidance on board is basically nonexistent. If you’re not confident with Japanese, it’s a good idea to keep Google Maps handy and track your progress in real-time!
Cherry Blossom Viewing Along the Arakawa River
Since it’s now the start of the main cherry blossom season in the Kanto region, no feature on Kumagaya would be complete without mentioning the Kumagaya Sakura Tsutsumi (which I’ve written about at length before here). This iconic riverside spot is hands down one of the best places in Saitama Prefecture to enjoy hanami. While Kumagaya might not be top of mind for most when it comes to cherry blossom viewing, the sheer scale and beauty of this location easily rival some of Tokyo’s more famous sakura spots — minus the overwhelming crowds.
Stretching for roughly two kilometers along the banks of the Arakawa, the Kumagaya Sakura Tsutsumi features a tunnel of around 500 cherry trees. During peak bloom, the trees form a mesmerizing pink canopy that’s especially magical when the petals begin to fall. If you time your visit right, you might also catch the simultaneous bloom of vibrant yellow nanohana (rapeseed flowers), which creates an unforgettable contrast of colors. While it’s not as packed as the likes of Ueno Park or Meguro, the atmosphere still gets lively during the height of hanami season, especially in the evenings when the trees are illuminated.
Getting to the Kumagaya Sakura Tsutsumi is also super convenient, which makes it a great option for a quick springtime getaway. From Kumagaya Station, it’s about a 10- to 15-minute walk to the riverbank. Just head south toward the Arakawa and follow the crowds during peak season — you really can’t miss it. If you’re visiting during hanami, be sure to check out the local event calendar. There’s usually a festive vibe with food stalls, live performances, and other seasonal happenings that make the whole experience feel like a proper spring celebration.
The Kumagaya Uchiwa Matsuri & the Summer Heat
As mentioned previously in the opening, Kumagaya is infamous for being one of the hottest places in all of Japan, and the sweltering summer temperatures have earned the city something of a reputation. For most, this alone might be enough to skip a visit during these months of the year. That said, if there’s one reason to brave the heat, it’s the Kumagaya Uchiwa Festival. Held annually in late July for three days, this high-energy celebration is one of the city’s defining special events — and honestly, it’s one of the best traditional summer festivals I’ve come across in all of my travels in Japan.
The name literally translates to “Fan Festival,” a nod to the uchiwa or handheld fans that are handed out during the celebration. Running from July 20 to July 22, this event features an impressive display of dashi floats, lively musical performances, and enthusiastic locals dancing in the streets. The atmosphere gets absolutely electric in the evenings, especially when the illuminated floats parade through the city center accompanied by music from instruments like taiko drums and flutes. Unlike larger festivals in Tokyo, there’s a strong sense of community here — it feels more grassroots, more local, and way more personal.
The festivities kick off with a mikoshi parade on the first day, with about 100 young men shouldering a portable shrine from Yasaka Shrine and hauling it through the downtown streets. On day two, things get even more lively with the float parade. Then, on the final day, everything builds up to a massive performance around 6 PM at the main festival square, where all 12 of the festival’s floats are brought together for one last hurrah. Once the clock strikes midnight, the mikoshi makes its return trip back to Atago Yasaka Shrine — this time carried by a crew of 300 people, ending the event on a high-energy note.
Most of the festivities are held around the area near Kumagaya Station, making it easy to access if you’re coming in for a day trip. Since it’s one of the biggest events on the local calendar though, you really need to expect crowds — but not to the point where it feels unmanageable compared to Japan’s most famous festivals. If you’re planning to visit, come prepared for the heat: bring water, wear breathable clothes, and definitely grab an uchiwa or two. It’s all part of the experience, and sweating it out alongside the locals just adds to the festival’s charm.
Later on in August, Kumagaya keeps the summer spirit alive with the Kumagaya Fireworks Festival, the longest-running event of its kind in Saitama Prefecture since its debut in 1948. Held along the Arakawa’s riverbank, this festival draws upwards of 450,000 visitors. Many of these folks opt to wear colorful yukata as they enjoy the night sky being lit up by more than 10,000 fireworks and browse the 500+ yatai stalls selling everything from savory takoyaki to syrup-drenched kakigori. Entry is free, but as with any outdoor event in Japan, it’s a good idea to check the official website ahead of time in case of delays or cancellations due to weather.
More Fun Around Kumagaya Station
Like with most smaller-sized cities, the area around the main station functions as the primary hub for Kumagaya. Here, you’ll find a handful of department stores, plenty of eateries, and all the usual suspects when it comes to urban conveniences. If you’re visiting this part of Saitama Prefecture between June and August and need a break from the truly oppressive heat that Kumagaya is notorious for, consider ducking into the large shopping complex right outside the station for some much-needed air conditioning.
One other spot for a quiet detour while exploring Kumagaya is Seikei-en, a small but serene Japanese garden located not far from the city center. Often used as a venue for traditional tea ceremonies, the garden offers a peaceful atmosphere that’s perfect for a quick reset during your visit. Even if you’re not taking part in any cultural activities, Seikei-en is still worth a stop — the grounds are beautifully maintained and serve as the source of the Hoshikawa, a small river that flows through the heart of the city. It’s an easy, low-effort addition to any Kumagaya itinerary, especially if you’re already nearby.
Other Nearby Attractions
Oddly enough, Kumagaya actually has great access to Chichibu. Possibly my favorite part of Saitama, this mountain town in the western part of the prefecture pairs surprisingly well with Kumagaya. While Chichibu is usually treated as a day trip from Tokyo, it can easily be tacked on to a Kumagaya itinerary. That said, you’ll want to spend a night in either place to give yourself enough time to properly explore both, as Chichibu is chock-full of wonderful attractions.
Thanks to the direct connection via the Chichibu Main Line, pairing Kumagaya with Chichibu opens up all sorts of seasonal opportunities. If you time your trip toward the tail end of cherry blossom season, you might even luck out and catch the start of the shibazakura (phlox) fields at Hitsujiyama Park. Additionally, anime and gaming fans should definitely look into the cosplayer-famous Senbonzakura of Torayama if time allows.
Until next time travelers…
