Recently, I took a trip to northern Japan to shoot promotional content for the JR East Pass (Tohoku Area). The last time I did this, I tried to jump from region to region as I climbed my way north to Aomori in an attempt to get as many clips for a sizzle reel as I could. This time though, I decided to take a different approach and go deep on single areas so I could showcase the potential of the pass. While these all-you-can-ride tickets are great for jetsetting around on the Shinkansen, many visitors to Japan aren’t aware that they also work for local trains too. So, in an effort to showcase this, I decided to focus on the western reaches of Aizu, and that’s when I stumbled upon the temple Enzo-ji in the town of Yanaizu.
If you’ve never heard of Enzo-ji (or even the Aizu region of Fukushima Prefecture), know that you’re probably not alone. Located in the central core that comprises the southern half of Tohoku, this part of Japan is rife with culture, history, and rural vibes. Of course, one of the highlights is Enzo-ji, one of three main temples in Japan that is dedicated to the bodhisattva Kokuzo, whose wisdom is said to be as great as the universe. Absolutely breathtaking during autumn, this ancient temple complex was constructed well over a millennium ago and has survived many floods, fires, and other disasters.
While most of you will have never heard of or seen Enzo-ji before, chances are high that you’ve seen the Tadami Line that runs out to the ancient temple. This picturesque 35-kilometre scenic railway goes all the way from Aizu-Wakamatsu Station to Koide Station at Uonuma in Niigata Prefecture. Along the way, there are some viewpoints with stunning vantages of the humble train that make for the perfect photograph. Every now and then, you’ll see an epic shot of the Tadami Line (like the one featured later on) pop up on Instagram as it crosses over the Tadami River.
All in all, if you’re anything like the people that regularly read this blog, I think you are really going to enjoy a visit to Enzo-ji. Easily considered one of the best hidden gems in all of Fukushima, few visitors from overseas ever manage to find their way out here to this part of Aizu where the temple is located. As a result, you can enjoy the rich history and spiritual legacy of Enzo-ji without needing to share it with many others. So, if you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path destination to add to your next autumn outing in Japan, look no further than this temple in the small town of Yanaizu.
How to Get There
Before we dive deeper into what Enzo-ji has to offer, let’s first take a moment to go over some essential logistics. To start, you’ll need to make your way to Aizu-Wakamatsu Station. The easiest way to do this is by taking the Tohoku Shinkansen to Koriyama Station and then transferring to the Ban-Etsu West Line. The leg from Koriyama to Aizu-Wakamatsu takes a little over an hour, but be sure to check departure times in advance using a service like Jorudan. Trains in Fukushima Prefecture don’t run nearly as frequently as they do in major cities like Tokyo.
Once you’ve arrived in Aizu-Wakamatsu, the next step is to hop on the charming Tadami Line. From there, it’s about an hour’s ride to Aizu-Yanaizu Station, where Enzo-ji is located. Just keep in mind that train intervals can be long (sometimes up to two hours or more), so planning your day carefully is a must. If you’re not mindful of the schedule, you could end up stranded after dark in the remote countryside of inner Aizu. While you can always hunker down in the station to stay warm, temperatures drop fast — especially around peak autumn foliage season — so consider this your friendly warning.
Honestly, while taking the Tadami Line out to Enzo-ji is part of the charm, it’s probably more practical to drive to the town of Yanaizu if renting a car is an option for you. At the end of the day, the train schedule just isn’t convenient enough to fully explore the area. And if you’re hoping to snap a photo of the Tadami Line as it crosses the river after touring the Enzo-ji grounds, you’ll likely have to catch a train well after sunset. There’s no way to get the shot and still make it onto that same departure.
Exploring the Enzo-ji Temple Grounds
As noted, Enzo-ji was built about 1,200 years ago, in the year 807. Allegedly, it was established by Tokuichi Daishi, a well-respected Buddhist priest who hailed from Aizu. As seen in the imagery throughout this article, the main hall of the temple complex rises high above the Tadami River and sits atop a massive crag. Though stunning year-round, the temple grounds are at their absolute best when Fukushima’s autumn leaves are out in full force. Enzo-ji features many points of interest, such as a treasure house and monuments dedicated to poets, inscribed with their poems and haiku.
If you’ve been to Kyoto before, you might notice some similarities between the architecture of Kiyomizu-dera and Enzo-ji. Like the famed temple in Japan’s former capital, Enzo-ji also boasts a balcony with a killer view that rests atop a number of sturdy pillars. While these pillars were originally wooden, they were replaced with concrete in the postwar era to help preserve the temple’s longevity. That said, the rest of the main hall is entirely wooden and dates back hundreds of years to the Edo period (1603–1868) as far as we can tell
Now, there are a number of entrances to the Enzo-ji temple complex, but the official main approach starts at the bottom of the hill. From there, parishioners must climb around one hundred stone steps to reach the main areas of the temple. That said, if you’re coming by rental car or simply prefer a more forgiving route, you’ll find that entering via the parking lot at the top of the temple is far easier than hoofing it up all those stairs. Regardless of how you access the main temple area, be sure to budget at least an hour for your visit to Enzo-ji.
As far as temple complexes go, few others in Fukushima Prefecture are as large as Enzo-ji. While there are plenty of nooks and crannies to explore while you’re there, you definitely shouldn’t miss the main hall. In addition to the breathtaking vista of the Tadami River far below, visible from the balcony, you’ll also want to head inside. While photography is prohibited, you’ll be able to view a number of Buddhist effigies and other relics dedicated to the Bodhisattva of wisdom, Kokuzo. Coupled with the fantastic fall foliage, all of this makes Enzo-ji well worth the visit.
The Birthplace of the Beloved Akabeko
If you’ve ever spent any time in the Aizu area, chances are you’ve come across a curious little red cow figurine known as the Akabeko. These bobble-headed bovines are a beloved symbol of the region, often seen swaying back and forth in souvenir shops or perched on the dashboards of local cars. What you might not know, though, is that this quirky mascot actually traces its roots back to Enzo-ji. According to local legend, during the construction of the temple over a millennium ago, a red cow helped haul heavy timber up the steep hillside.
Despite the backbreaking labor, the animal refused to leave once the job was done, choosing instead to stay by the temple’s side as a sign of devotion. Moved by the cow’s loyalty and tenacity, the people of Aizu came to revere it as a sacred creature, eventually giving rise to the Akabeko legend. Over the centuries, the red cow became more than just a tale and evolved into a symbol of resilience, good health, and protection against illness. Even today, visitors to Enzo-ji can find a statue of a cow which, according to local folktales, can heal ailments if you rub it in the right spot.
Oddly enough, one of the biggest draws to Enzo-ji isn’t its sweeping views, fabulous fall foliage, or even centuries-old halls, but a raucous winter ritual known as the Nanokado Hadaka Mairi. Held every year on January 7, this wild event of legend sees local groups of men, young and old, wearing nothing but white fundoshi loincloths as they charge up the stone steps of the temple in freezing weather. Their goal is to ring the large bell at the main hall and offer prayers for good fortune, health, and protection in the new year — cold be damned.
The sight of nearly-nude participants sprinting through the snow and cold might seem perplexing to outsiders, but for the people of Aizu, this is a cherished tradition that dates back generations. The event is believed to purify the spirit and bring blessings to the community. While the timing might make it tough for casual travelers to catch, those lucky enough to be in the area during early January will witness a truly unique side of Japan’s spiritual culture that few ever get to see.
The Tadami River Bridge Viewpoint
After checking out the temple complex of Enzo-ji (or ideally before), you’ll definitely want to hop a few stops down the Tadami Line to Aizu-Miyashita Station for the view pictured above. From there, you’ll need to catch a bus up to Michi-no-Eki Ozekaido Mishima-juku. This roadside service station sits along National Route 252 and offers all sorts of fresh, seasonal local produce, handmade craft goods, and other regional specialties. While it’s technically walkable, the route lacks footpaths and can be dangerous, so I highly recommend taking the bus instead.
Once you pull into Michi-no-Eki Ozekaido Mishima-juku, all of the various viewpoints for the Tadami Line are just a few minutes’ walk away. There should be clear signage too, making it easy to navigate. The tricky part comes after you’ve snapped your shot, as only a scant pair of buses return from Michi-no-Eki Ozekaido Mishima-juku to Aizu-Miyashita Station. Wat’s more, both run very early in the day and require advance reservations. If you happen to miss them, you may be stuck hoofing it all the way back to the station on foot while trying to not get hit by a car.
Though there are a number of scenic options to choose from, the most famous photos are all taken from the Tadami River Bridge No. 1 Viewpoint where the train crosses the bridge between Aizu-Nishikata Station and Aizu-Hinohara Station. Because of the limited train schedule and tricky logistics, it can be difficult to time everything right, so do your due diligence when planning. This is not the part of Fukushima where you want to be missing a train. If at all possible, exploring this section of the prefecture by car is much more practical.
If you’re hoping to catch one of the earlier trains on the Tadami Line before the legion of other photography enthusiasts descends on the area, your best bet is to overnight at Miyashita Onsen. This tiny hot spring town is located right around Aizu-Miyashita Station and makes for the perfect base to get an early start. The extremely early train around 6 AM looks absolutely spectacular in the morning light, and staying nearby means you won’t have to fight your way to the front of a firing squad of cameramen all jockeying for the same shot.
Other Nearby Attractions
To be perfectly frank with you, getting to both Enzo-ji and the Tadami River Bridge №1 Viewpoint in a single day is a struggle. While it is technically possible if you time things right, it is not easy to pull off, especially if you are coming all the way up from Tokyo. For this reason, I strongly recommend either spending the night in the aforementioned Miyashita Onsen or at least booking an overnight stay in Aizu-Wakamatsu so you can head out to the sites mentioned in this article as early as possible. By starting the day already in the area, you’ll greatly improve your chances of seeing everything.
While you are in Aizu-Wakamatsu, I highly encourage you to check out some of the local attractions such as the mighty Tsuruga Castle and the architectural marvel that is the Sazaedo. I have already covered both of these spots and more in a standalone guide to Aizu-Wakamatsu (and Ouchijuku), so rather than repeat myself here, I will just direct you to that earlier article. Just be sure to set aside enough time to properly explore Aizu-Wakamatsu, as this often overlooked part of Tohoku is absolutely packed with fascinating samurai history.
In addition to Aizu-Wakamatsu, one other part of Fukushima Prefecture that you might find to your liking is the Urabandai region. Tucked away on the northern side of Mt. Bandai, this picturesque area is best known for its volcanic landscapes, vibrant alpine lakes, and outdoor adventure opportunities. The crown jewel of Urabandai is the Goshikinuma, or “Five Colored Lakes,” a series of vividly tinted ponds that change color depending on the season, time of day, and weather. Whether you’re into hiking, photography, or just soaking in serene natural beauty, Urabandai is a place that definitely deserves to be on your itinerary.
Finally, if you want to eke a bit more fun out of the Tadami Line, you can continue on to the town of Kanayama. This quiet spot is one of the only places in all of Japan where carbonated water occurs naturally, and the town is home to several fantastic hot springs that make use of this rare resource. Beyond the onsen, Kanayama also boasts some incredible viewpoints, such as the Kaneyama Fureai Hiroba Viewpoint, which overlooks a charming village. If you are someone who enjoys rural countryside vibes and tranquil scenery, this innermost part of Fukushima Prefecture is well worth a detour before heading back.
Until next time travelers…
