Recently, I ventured out to the Setouchi region of Japan to catch up with friends working in the local tourism industry. While there, we hit up a lesser-known festival in Hiroshima’s city of Fuchu that was complete with fireworks, musical performances, and of course, delicious food. Located to the north of Fukuyama, Fuchu is a rather unknown part of the prefecture and offers a totally different vibe from what most tourists to Japan are used to. In contrast to the urban environs of Hiroshima’s capital city, Fuchu feels like a place where time has all but stopped.
Interestingly, Fuchu is actually home to all sorts of hidden allures and unexpected claims to fame. While some of them are harder to explore than others, it’s rather mind-boggling to think that this place is where many of the top brands in the world source their denim. Likewise, Fuchu — or more specifically, the town of Joge in Fuchu — was also an extremely key staging post for transporting silver mined in Iwami Ginzan toward coastal ports. This mine was responsible for much of Japan’s silver production for generations, and Joge greatly supported the transport of this precious metal to the rest of the country.
Despite its obscurity, Joge punches far above its weight when it comes to historical significance, cultural preservation, and visual charm. In years gone by, the strategic importance of Joge was so high that it was directly controlled by the Tokugawa shogunate. After all, they simply couldn’t let one of the regional daimyo (samurai lords) oversee the shipment of silver coming from Iwami Ginzan. Thanks to this critical care and protection on behalf of the shogunate — and the sheer flow of valuables that came through Joge — this hamlet grew to be incredibly wealthy. Even today, you can still see all sorts of traces of this history.
By the way, if you’re new here, Backyard Tourism is my series where I dive deep into Japan’s lesser-known locales — places FAR off the beaten track that usually fly under the radar. Like with every other article in the collection, I am not going to suggest you make a concerted effort to visit Joge. It’s simply too far out of the way for most visitors to Hiroshima to consider, and there are honestly better alternatives. That said, the point of Backyard Tourism is to show that just about anywhere in Japan has potential if the powers that be can nail the complicated combination of storytelling, marketing, and good old attractions.
How to Get There
Before we look at what to see and do in Joge, let’s take a quick second to cover how to get there. When I visited, I had the luxury of being carted around by allies in the area in a rental car. Should you not have friends like this in the Setouchi region, you’re going to either need to get your own set of wheels or make do with the rather terrible public transportation. Though doable, you’ll just need to be mindful of departure times, so refer to Jourdan or a similar service in advance and plan your outing accordingly.
If you’re coming by train, you’ll first need to get to Fukuyama Station via the bullet train. While some Nozomi Shinkansen do stop here, not all do. If you’re using a regional rail pass though, this is almost a blessing in disguise, as JR does not allow unlimited ride ticket holders to use the fastest of the Shinkansen. From Fukuyama, things get a bit more difficult. You’ll need to transfer to the local Fukuen Line, get off at Fuchu Station, and then continue on to Joge Station via another train.
For what it’s worth, know that it’s the second of these connections that is the real killer. You see, there are only a handful of daily departures along this portion of the Fukuen Line. If you miss a train, you’re going to need to wait a couple of hours before the next one comes in. So do yourself a favor and plan down to the minute, lest you end up in Joge with nothing to see or do while you idle around hoping the next train isn’t delayed or canceled.
Lastly, before moving on to Joge’s points of interest, know that there is a machiya in the center of town that has been recently renovated. The space has a handful of rooms you can stay in, and it’s quite affordable too. Should this not tickle your fancy, there are also a handful of other ryokan in Joge, though I’d honestly suggest heading back somewhere more central — unless your itinerary has you continuing north to Miyoshi or even further.
Timeslip to Before the Meiji Period
Okay… Let’s now dive into why someone would even want to visit Joge in the first place. As noted, the town was a critical node in the distribution chain that moved silver out of the mines of Iwami Ginzan and sent it to more populated areas of Japan. This alone made it a site of major importance in the eyes of the Tokugawa shogunate, and so they maintained draconian control over Joge to ensure the silver reached its intended destinations.
Like with Kawagoe and other places with a similar historical vibe, the real draw of Joge is simply the townscape itself. As you wander about, you can enjoy traditional architecture from another era on full display. What’s more, you can deepen the immersion by renting a kimono or yukata from a local artisan while in Joge. Not only will this elevate the quality of your photos, but it will also help you better imagine what life might have felt like in this part of Hiroshima back in the day.
In addition to the town’s historical atmosphere, here are some details about the other points of interest in Joge. You should be able to make your rounds to most, if not all, of them and still get back to the station before the next train on the Fukuen Line pulls in. As always, I’ll include a Google Maps link to help you get your bearings…
- The Okinaza Theater
Pictured above, this charming wooden structure once served as a venue for kabuki and later as a cinema during the early Showa period (1926–1989). These days, it’s mostly used for local events, including the occasional Bingo Kagura performance — which can be a real treat if you happen to time your visit just right. - Joge’s Machiya Streetscape
The heart of Joge lies in its streets lined with white-walled machiya, many of which date back to the Edo period(1603–1868) and Meiji period (1868–1912). Just wandering around here feels like walking through a film set — with the added bonus that it’s not overrun with tourists. - Kameyama Hachimangu
Located just a short stroll from the main street, this peaceful shrine is home to the traditional Yumi Kagura ritual several times a year. Even when there’s nothing going on, the place exudes a quiet sort of reverence that makes it worth popping by. - Joge History & Culture Museum
Housed in the birthplace of acclaimed novelist Okada Michiyo, this compact museum does a solid job of showcasing the town’s literary and logistical legacy. Best of all, it’s free to enter, so there’s really no excuse not to check it out. - Joge’s Post Office
This white-walled building isn’t a working post office but has a nostalgic charm of its own — it’s a Taisho-period(1912–1926) structure that once housed the postal service and has since been converted into the Joge Gallery, featuring antique displays, folk crafts, and a quaint café atmosphere. Swing by for a snap with the vintage red post box out front and enjoy a relaxing pause amid Joge’s historic streetscape.
Finally, if you want to have a truly unique experience that feels like it’s been pulled straight from the annals of history, head one stop down the Fukuen Line to Bingo-Yano Station. Here, you’ll find a quaint udon shop–cum–café built right into the station building where you can enjoy a bowl of delicious noodles. If you’re using the train, though, just be mindful of the schedule — you might end up stuck here for a while…
Other Nearby Attractions
As mentioned before, there are a lot of small hidden gems within the city of Fuchu that are worth checking out — though most of these will require that you have a rental car. For this reason, I personally suggest that you either continue on toward Iwami Ginzan in Shimane Prefecture via Miyoshi, or you head back down to Fukuyama Station after exploring Joge. The only real exception would be Fuchu’s annual festival in early June, which is lively enough to warrant the detour.
Personally, if I were visiting from overseas and planning a trip to Joge, I’d head back to Fukuyama and check out the town of Tomonoura. Located just south of Fukuyama Station, this iconic port on the Seto Inland Sea is a textbook example of what life might have been like in this part of Japan hundreds of years ago. What’s more, Tomonoura also served as the inspiration for Miyazaki Hayao’s animated film Ponyo — a fun bonus for Ghibli fans.
Finally, if you do have a rental car and are looking for a great spot in Hiroshima to pair with your Joge outing, consider dropping by Sera Kogen. Up in the highlands of the prefecture, you’ll find a rolling plateau filled with seasonal blooms — dahlias, nemophila, sunflowers, and more depending on the time of year. Frankly, it’s one of those locations I’d prefer to gatekeep, but I don’t mind sharing it with readers of the blog.
Until next time travelers…
