All things considered, Tokyo’s Yasukuni Shrine is an interesting place. Originally founded by the Meiji emperor, the shrine was first established in 1869 following the conclusion of the Boshin War. Since its inception, Yasukuni Shrine has been dedicated to those who have served in Japan’s military. It is currently home to upwards of 2.5 million men, women, and children, as well as various pets.
The shrine continues to pop up on the international radar due to the fact that among the millions enshrined at Yasukuni, there are over a thousand war criminals from World War II. In particular, 14 of these have been identified as “Class-A” offenders and include notorious figures such as Tojo Hideki, who ordered the attack on Pearl Harbor. As such, whenever a prominent Japanese politician visits Yasukuni Shrine, there are bound to be hostile media conflagrations in the foreign press.
Regardless of where you may fall on the issue, the shrine hosts a stunningly beautiful summer event known as the Mitama Festival. Held annually in mid-July to mark the start of Tokyo’s Obon season, the festival is famous for the 30,000 lanterns — both large and small — that illuminate the pathway leading to the shrine. First celebrated in 1947, the event is meant to honor the spirits of the war dead and give thanks for the peace and prosperity their sacrifices helped bring. The warm glow of the lanterns is said to guide and comfort the souls enshrined within Yasukuni.
How to Get There
Yasukuni Shrine is located in central Tokyo, near the northern edge of the Imperial Palace grounds. The easiest way to get there is by taking the Hanzomon Line to Kudanshita Station. From the station, it’s only a short walk to the entrance path that leads to the shrine. If you’re coming from an area better served by the Nanboku Line, Ichigaya Station is also just five minutes away on foot. As always, consult a route planning app like Jorudan or a similar service to determine the most convenient line for you.
As for planning and slotting the celebration into your Japan travel itinerary, know that the Mitama Festival is always held from July 13 to July 16 each year and often marks the start of summer. While that means things can get hot and sweaty with all the attendees, it’s also one of the reasons you might want to brave the sultry months of the year. Though many say it’s the worst time to visit, it’s also when many of Japan’s best festivals take place — so the heat is something of a necessary evil.
Speaking of summer, know that July and August can be downright brutal, so come prepared. Wear something breathable and don’t underestimate the power of a good pair of walking shoes — there’s a lot of standing around, especially if you plan to catch the processions. A handheld fan or one of those cold gel packs you can pick up at any convenience store will go a long way in keeping you cool. And while there are plenty of vending machines nearby, it’s never a bad idea to bring a bottle of water just in case.
Enjoy the Mitama Festival
Once you arrive at the Mitama Festival, you’re in for a real visual feast. The lanterns — some towering and others strung delicately along the walkways — are typically lit from early evening until about 9:30 PM, after which the security will start asking people to leave the premises. Though the festival runs for several days, crowds tend to peak as the sun sets on the first day, so arriving a bit early is a good idea if you’re hoping to snap photos without a sea of people in the frame.
In addition to the lanterns, the Mitama Festival features a range of cultural performances and processions. Expect to see traditional Bon Odori dances, raucous mikoshi parades, and dramatic floats inspired by the famous Nebuta Festival from Aomori. You might also stumble upon taiko drumming, yosakoi dancing, folk music performances, and even the occasional brass band. The festive energy is palpable, yet somehow still reverent — an elegant balancing act that feels uniquely Japanese.
Food lovers won’t be disappointed either. While classic festival stalls have become less common in recent years, a fleet of food trucks has stepped in to offer festival favorites like takoyaki, yakisoba, kakigori (shaved ice), and karaage (Japanese fried chicken). Whether you’re there for the photos, the food, or simply to experience a lesser-known slice of Japanese culture, the Mitama Festival is one of Tokyo’s summer highlights.
Though the event is meant to honor the spirits of the fallen, and that can come with some controversy, it manages to do so in a way that’s both accessible and inviting. Whether you’re a history buff, a cultural enthusiast, or just someone chasing a good summer vibe, the Mitama Festival is absolutely worth penciling into your Tokyo itinerary.
By the way, due to Yasukuni Shrine’s complicated reputation, you’ll likely notice a high-profile police presence during the event. It’s nothing to worry about — just something to keep in mind if you’re not used to large-scale events with uniformed security.
Until next time travelers…
