In today’s post we’ll be examining one of the northernmost outposts of the Tendai Buddhist sect that has been on my bucket list for years. Officially known as Risshaku-ji, the temple is more colloquially known as Yamadera (lit. “Mountain Temple”) as it seemingly clings desperately to the cliffs of Mt. Hoju. Yamadera is home to some absolutely spectacular panoramic views. But there is a catch! These promised vistas will require you to scale well over 1,000 steps as you wind your way up to the temple’s summit. As daunting as this may seem, and much like other locations in Japan, what awaits at the top will leave you breathless.
Historical records hint that Yamadera’s roots date all the way back to 860 AD. The temple was supposedly founded by Ennin, known as Jikaku Daishi, a monk from the Tendai Sect’s home base of Enryaku-ji in Kyoto. Even today, a sacred ritual fire brought from this eminent temple continues to burn within Konpon Chudo, Yamadera’s main hall. Yet, despite the temple’s ancient pedigree, most of the current structures date back to the Edo period (1603–1868) (1603–1868) reflecting the ravages of fire and war over the years.
Yamadera is also well-known for being the site where the master haiku poet Matsuo Basho composed some of his most famous work. En route to your destination towards the summit, you’ll encounter a handful of monuments honoring the poet. Additionally, the Yamadera Basho Memorial Museum is located on the opposite side of the valley. I personally did not get a chance to check this site out so I withhold comment. Nevertheless, those interested in haiku might find the museum to be of interest.
Lastly, a quick warning for those considering a visit to Yamadera with their significant other. Local superstition holds that journeying up the temple’s endless steps with a loved one almost always leads to a breakup; a clean and amicable one but a breakup nonetheless. Indeed many living in the area use the temple as a euphemism when suggesting that it might be better to part ways. If you are looking to stay together, it might be better to heed the old wives’ tales and pass on Yamadera.
How to Get There
Yamadera’s remote location in the mountains of Yamagata Prefecture means it is quite a distance from the “typical” Japanese tourist attractions. The nearest station to the temple is Yamadera Station. This location calls for a ride on the bullet train heading north. From there, Yamadera can be reached either from Yamagata Station or Sendai Station on the Senzan Line. While the latter is usually a little faster, you’d do well to double check with Jorudan because this train is notorious for departing only once per hour.
After arriving at Yamadera Station, the entrance to the temple complex is about a seven-minute walk. It should be relatively self-explanatory and easy to follow the crowd but here’s a map just in case you get lost. Pay at Sanmon a little way into the grounds, not at the first gate you see from the road. Last entry is 4 PM from April through November and 3 PM from December through March, so get an early start if you want the summit.
Exploring Yamadera
A bit of wise advice! Venturing to the top of Yamadera is not for the faint of heart. First up, you will need to climb what will seem like a million and one stairs on your ascent. As such, those without a strong constitution or those traveling in summer might want to reconsider their visit. While the base of the complex is home to Konpon Chudo and the flame from Enryaku-ji, the temple’s real charms are all located at the summit. The climb will cost you 500 yen, but trust me, this minor expense is well worth the priceless view from the top.
After mustering all your grit and determination, you are ready to begin your ascent. The trek will lead you through the mountain’s towering cedar trees as it winds its way up the mountain. On the way you’ll encounter numerous small monuments and stone lanterns as well as a series of carvings in the mountainside. The Buddhist motifs, coupled with the forest canopy, combine to create a very atmospheric hike.
Approximately halfway up the mountain trail you’ll pass a gigantic rock supposedly shaped like the Amida Buddha and called the Mida Hora Rock. The stone staircase runs 1,015 steps from Sanmon to the upper halls, so the halfway mark is farther than it looks. While you’re free to take a moment to check this out, I suggest saving any stops for the return trip. You don’t want your legs cramping up on you after indulging in a quick breather! Trust me, I learned this lesson the hard way.
Eventually you’ll come across the Ni-no-mon gate pictured above. From here the upper portions of Yamadera are only about one hundred stairs away so press on. Until that gate, the cedars keep the valley boxed in. After it, the halls sit on the cliff edge and the area opens up to a number of temple buildings and a stunning view of the valley below. This panorama creates a stark contrast to the upward journey where the view is secretly concealed by foliage.
In the area past the Ni-no-mon gate you’ll find two of Yamadera’s most iconic buildings, the Kaisan-do and the adjacent Nokyo-do. The former hall is dedicated to Ennin, the founder of Yamadera, whereas the latter was used for copying sutras and now hangs on the cliff face that shows up in every postcard. Perhaps the monks possess a much more disciplined mental fortitude but I can’t imagine getting any sutra work done with such a wondrous view like that!
Just past the Kaisan-do, you’ll find yet more stairs that lead up to a hall known as Godai-do. The observation deck dates back to the 1700s and offers magnificent views of the surrounding valley. For sure, I spent a good hour gazing lazily out at the mountains in the distance. When the big city is your daily focus, it’s easy to forget the majority of Japan’s geographical terrain is actually quite mountainous.
Yamadera has one more point of interest and that would be the Oku-no-in. By now, it should come as no surprise; yes, Oku-no-in sits at the top of even more stairs. This final structure houses a large statue of the Amida Buddha which can be observed from the outside. As you make your way there, keep your eyes out for some of the monks’ residences and try to imagine what it would be like to live up here!
Once you’ve seen everything Yamadera has to offer, feel free to head back down. There are many soba noodle shops on the way back to the station which will provide you with some well-earned and much deserved calories. The full round trip usually takes about an hour and a half. Just remember to be very careful on your descent, especially if it’s been raining, as the footing is less than ideal.
Other Nearby Attractions
While a visit to Yamadera can technically be done in a day, it would be a shame to go all the way to Yamagata Prefecture only to get on a train heading back right away. I suggest overnighting and sampling a little more of what the northern Tohoku region has to offer. Yamagata City sits close enough that you can sleep there and bounce back onto the Senzan Line in the morning. Those with an international license would do well to rent a car and go exploring as train access isn’t that widespread.
By far, my top recommendation for the prefecture would be to check out Ginzan Onsen about 37 km north of Yamadera. It’s a real pain in the behind to get to but many people have described its ryokan as straight out of Hayao Miyazaki’s Spirited Away. The small hot spring town feels like it was ripped right out of the pages of the 1920s and is especially charming in winter. If you can only pick one extra night in the prefecture, put it here.
That said, like with Kusatsu Onsen, Ginzan Onsen keeps itself pretty much secluded from the outside world. Luckily, Yamagata Prefecture is home to another onsen town that is much easier to get to from Yamadera. Known as Tendo Onsen, this spot sits along the Shinkansen spine north of Yamagata City and makes a good overnight compromise for those who are not able to experience Ginzan Onsen.
Fans of shogi (Japanese chess) should also note that the city of Tendo is home to the country’s main manufacturers of game pieces. You are sure to see a lot of shogi decorations about. Tendo has been carving those pieces since the Edo period, which is why the motifs show up on manhole covers and station signs. The town is also home to the Hiroshige Museum of Art, which opened in 1997 around a cache of Utagawa Hiroshige works tied to Tendo, and you can check that out as well.
Until next time travelers…
