Located deep in northern Japan, Yamagata Prefecture was once the kind of place that rarely welcomed foreign tourists. For years, it flew almost entirely under the radar, known mainly to domestic travelers and the occasional adventurous visitor. These days, however, the secret is very much out of the bag. While it still doesn’t see anything close to the crowds of Japan’s major tourist hubs, Yamagata has steadily grown in international recognition (and for good reason).
Although its Yamadera temple complex has long enjoyed some awareness overseas, many of the prefecture’s other offerings only began attracting broader attention in recent years. Even now, Yamagata remains refreshingly free of overtourism in most spots. Despite its growing popularity, it is still home to a vast trove of incredible sights, including the likes of a mountain shrine so sacred that one is not to speak of what happens on its consecrated grounds.
Though Yamagata offers an impressive array of attractions throughout the year, few things can compare to the prefecture’s magnificent winters. Nestled amongst its snow-capped peaks, you’ll find a smorgasbord of experiences ranging from rustic hot spring towns to world-class ski resorts. For a prefecture that remains relatively rural and spread out, it does an excellent job of rewarding those willing to venture beyond Japan’s well-trodden routes.
On that note, today we’ll be taking a look at two of my winter favorites: the jaw-dropping Ginzan Onsen town and Mt. Zao with its iconic “snow monster” phenomenon. While both have become established highlights of Yamagata tourism, visiting them during peak winter, when the region is buried under a thick blanket of snow, is still an unforgettable experience. Cold be damned! Traveler, beware, though, as both destinations remain well off the beaten path. Even with increased popularity, getting there still takes some effort — but the payoff is more than worth it.
How to Get There
As with most destinations in northern Japan, transportation in Yamagata is not quite as seamless as it is in more urbanized areas. This naturally makes the journey more involved, particularly in winter. Including all transit time, both the snow monsters and Ginzan Onsen each require roughly a full day. What’s more, due to Yamagata’s remote geography, you are going to want to spend the night at the very least. Realistically, this is still not an area best approached as a simple day trip.
To get started, you will need to take either a bullet train or a flight up to Yamagata Prefecture. From there, the next steps depend entirely on which destination you would like to visit first. Given that you are already venturing this far north, I strongly recommend doing both. That said, if you have another attraction in mind, such as Yamadera, feel free to swap out either stop.
If you are heading to Ginzan Onsen first, you will need to make your way from Yamagata Station to Oishida Station. There are several ways to do this, but the simplest is to search Jorudan or a similar service for a bullet train with direct access from Tokyo. The earliest option I could find when I originally did this trip was the Tsubasa 123, which departs Tokyo Station at 7:12 AM and arrives at Oishida Station by 10:39 AM.
From Oishida Station, you will then need to catch a bus to Ginzan Onsen. The route runs infrequently, so depending on timing, you may end up waiting over an hour (here is the schedule). While you are killing time, take a moment to locate the bus terminal. Although signage is entirely in Japanese, Oishida Station is small and easy to navigate. Exit through the station’s only gate, turn left, and you will spot the bus stop sign shortly thereafter, directly in front of a rather drab waiting room.
For those who would rather see the snow monsters first before going to Ginzan Onsen, your initial goal will be to reach Yamagata Station. From there, you will need to catch a bus bound for Zao Onsen and Ski Resort, which is located on Mt. Zao. The trip takes about 40 minutes and costs 1,000 yen each way. Here’s the bus timetable for reference. The bus stop is located directly in front of Yamagata Station. Simply follow the red signs and you will be on your way.
The Charming Ginzan Onsen
A wintertime visit to the quaint hot spring town of Ginzan Onsen feels like stepping into a living postcard. Tucked deep within the Yamagata mountains, this atmospheric town was originally founded as a silver mine over five hundred years ago and grew into a major source of the material during the Edo period (1603–1868). Since then, Ginzan has transformed itself into one of Japan’s most visually striking onsen towns, despite its remote location and relatively small stature.
Without a doubt, Ginzan Onsen’s claim to fame is its collection of historic ryokan (traditionally styled Japanese inns). Many of these three- and four-story wooden buildings date back to the Taisho period (1912–1926). Strolling past these rustic, antique structures is sure to take one back to a bygone era that has been all but lost to the modern world. Ginzan Onsen is especially enchanting in the evening, when all the ryokan are lit up and the streets are illuminated by gas-lit lamps.
Can’t shake the feeling of having seen these antique ryokan somewhere before? You are not alone. Many posit that the bathhouse in Miyazaki Hayao’s acclaimed Spirited Away drew inspiration from Ginzan Onsen. That’s right. You can actually stay in a ryokan that feels as if it were taken straight from the pages of one of Studio Ghibli’s most renowned works. Just be sure not to upset No Face unless you want to have a gigantic mess on your hands. Don’t say I didn’t warn you.
Anyway, as you might conclude from its location, Ginzan Onsen is a secluded mountain getaway. An escape to a place like this is an attraction unto itself. As such, there is not really much else to do per se beyond enjoying the spellbinding ambiance and relaxing with a good soak. To make the most of your stay, try to snag a reservation in one of the ryokan. They are extremely popular during winter, so be sure to start the process well in advance.
If you would rather stay somewhere else or cannot manage to find an opening, do not worry. Many of the historic ryokan open their baths to non-guests prior to the 2:00 PM check-in rush for a fee ranging from 300 to 1,500 yen. What’s more, the town also has two public baths that will only run you a few hundred yen. There is even a free foot bath in the center of town. Given the extremely limited capacity of Ginzan Onsen’s accommodations, do not feel badly if you have to default to the day-use-only option.
Before moving on, take a minute to check out the area behind Ginzan Onsen, where you will encounter a dramatic twenty-two-meter-tall waterfall. Nearby, you will also find several historic entrances to the old silver mines that date back over five hundred years. In the warmer months, visitors can explore parts of the mine, but in winter the snow makes this all but impossible. While that is a bit of a bummer, the sight of Ginzan Onsen blanketed in snow more than makes up for it.
The Snow Monsters of Mt. Zao
OK, OK. By now you’re probably asking yourself who the hell these snow monsters are that supposedly inhabit Mt. Zao. While I hate to burst the bubble of readers who have images of gargantuan yetis in mind, this strange and unique phenomenon is totally explainable by science. Known in Japanese as “juhyo,” this mystic wonder of nature is the result of supercooled water droplets in snow clouds coming in contact with the mountain’s white fir trees. Due to Yamagata’s frigid winter temperatures, rime forms, and eventually snow accumulates to fill in the gaps.
Typically speaking, the snow monsters form towards the peak of Mt. Zao and are most spectacular in the middle of February. Access to the summit is provided by a ropeway that can be utilized by skiers and non-skiers alike. A trip to the top will cost you 2,600 yen round-trip. Though definitely impressive in the daylight, the snow monsters come alive at night when they are lit up. While night skiing is forbidden up this high, an evening lift ride is the perfect way to experience this unique Mt. Zao phenomenon.
The Zao Onsen & Ski Resort facility comes equipped with many ski lifts and ropeways, although only one goes to the height where the snow monsters form. Rather than complicate things more than they need to be, I’ll just give you a link to a Google Map that will take you to the correct lift. If you would rather navigate things on your own, know that it is easiest to just look for the only route that has a transfer point. Doing so makes it simple to identify the right ropeway for the snow monsters.
A visit to the summit should take a solid two hours or so, but be sure to budget more time than necessary. After all, you do have to compete with the ski and snowboard fanatics for lift space. What’s one to do after snapping a few pics, though? Glad you asked! Luckily for you, Zao Onsen & Ski Resort holds the distinction of being one of the highest-rated hot spring towns in all of Japan. What’s more, many of the facilities even welcome day-use customers, making this the perfect way to thaw out.
Oh, and before moving on, I have one final tidbit for the history buffs out there. While researching this article, I stumbled across a placard claiming that the hot springs of Mt. Zao have a history dating back to about the year 110. This would make them about as old as the antediluvian antediluvian Atsuta Jingu in Nagoya. Supposedly, Mt. Zao’s hot springs were originally called Takayu after the warrior Takayu Kibino, who founded them ages ago. According to legend, his battle wounds were miraculously healed by the onsen’s rejuvenating properties.
Other Nearby Attractions
Are you hungry for more? Don’t worry, Yamagata is more than able to deliver. Though its best attractions are scattered throughout the prefecture, there’s more than enough in Yamagata alone to keep you busy for a solid week. For starters, why not consider a visit to the Solemn Yamadera complex? As can be seen in the shot above, the mountainside temple grounds are absolutely stunning when blanketed by snow.
Nearby, you’ll also find the town of Tendo. In addition to having its own collection of onsen facilities, Tendo is also Japan’s primary producer of shogi (Japanese chess) pieces. Lastly, if you want to extend your stay in Yamagata a little longer, the sacred Dewa Sanzan (lit. the “Three Mountains of Dewa”) are quite the sight. Even to this day, the trinity of peaks continues to be the training grounds for the local Yamabushi ascetics.
That said, part of this area’s appeal is its remoteness. Unfortunately, Yamagata’s profuse snowfall in winter makes travel during the colder months quite arduous. Of the Dewa Sanzan, only Mt. Haguro is semi-open during the long months of winter. Perhaps the sacred mountains and mummified monks there will need to wait until spring. But more on that in another post…
Until next time travelers…
