Last week, when writing about Takasaki City in Gunma Prefecture, I referenced Ikaho Onsen a number of times. After hitting publish, though, I realized that I never actually wrote an article on this traditional onsen town. While I have prior work on some of Gunma’s other hot spring havens like Kusatsu Onsen and Manza Onsen, I somehow never got around to covering Ikaho Onsen. So today, we’re finally going to rectify that mistake and do a deep dive on one of the most charming hot springs in all of Gunma Prefecture.
If you haven’t heard of Ikaho Onsen before, know that it is located on the eastern slopes of Mt. Haruna. Along with the aforementioned Kusatsu Onsen, as well as two others, Ikaho Onsen is part of a quartet of Gunma Prefecture’s famous hot springs. Known for its reddish-brown, iron-laden thermal waters, Ikaho Onsen is far more easily accessible than its cousins, thereby making it the better option for a day trip from Tokyo. As such, unlike a lot of the other hidden gems I cover on this blog, Ikaho Onsen is actually quite the convenient add-on.
In addition to its golden waters (which are said to be great for your skin thanks to its high iron content), one of the standout features of Ikaho Onsen is its 300-meter-long stone staircase that cuts right through the middle of town. Flanked on both sides by traditional Japanese inns, old-school game arcades, and mom-and-pop shops, cafes and restaurants, this iconic slope gives Ikaho a retro charm that makes it feel like you’ve time-traveled back to the mid-1900s. It’s honestly quite the charming vibe as you’ll see if you ever visit yourself.
What’s more, as noted in the recent article on Takasaki City that I penned last week, Takasaki Station is the point where the Hokuriku and Joetsu Shinkansen split. This means that Takasaki, as well as nearby allures like Ikaho Onsen, are really easy to slot into any itinerary that takes you to Nagano/Kanazawa or Niigata. Especially for those of you with the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area), it’s really easy for visitors to this part of Japan to hop off the bullet train and enjoy Ikaho Onsen. At least in comparison to Gunma’s other hot springs, Ikaho Onsen is super convenient!
How to Get There
Before we go over what to see and do while in Ikaho Onsen, let’s quickly cover some key logistics. As noted, the hot spring town is located on the eastern foothills of Mt. Haruna and is surrounded on all sides by high hills and lush nature (as can be seen above). This means that no trains actually run to Ikaho Onsen. Instead, you’ll need to use a combination of bus and train to get there if you don’t have access to a rental car or a friend who drives.
Luckily, unlike with some locations, Ikaho Onsen is actually easily accessed. To get there, you’ll first need to go to Shibukawa Station. From there, the hot spring is only around 30 minutes away by local bus. As always, though, you’ll want to refer to a service like Jorudan for the most expedient means of getting to Ikaho Onsen. Just be sure to check schedules well in advance, as you may end up waiting a while or even needing to make the trek back on foot if you miss the final bus.
While I can’t personally confirm, it seems that there are highway buses that run from Shinjuku Station all the way to Ikaho Onsen. If you aren’t traveling by rental car or trying to milk your regional JR rail pass for all it’s worth, this might be the most relaxing way of reaching Ikaho Onsen. From what I’ve read online, the journey from central Tokyo will take around 2.5 hours or so. If this sounds convenient to you, do look into this option, as it seems pretty handy.
Personally, though, I’d like to recommend that you also visit Mt. Haruna too when dropping by Ikaho Onsen. This will require you to take a bus from Takasaki Station and eschew the highway bus, but it’s more than worth it. To keep this article on track, though, and not immerse you in the details now, I’ll cover that route later on in the section labeled “Mt. Haruna and Haruna Shrine.”
Ikaho Onsen’s Iconic Stone Steps
No visit to Ikaho Onsen would be complete without taking some time to explore the town’s iconic stone steps. Known in Japanese as the Ishidan-gai, this sloped staircase stretches for over 300 meters and is easily the most recognizable feature of the hot spring resort. Dating back hundreds of years, the steps were originally built to help bathers of a bygone era reach the upper-level inns and public baths more easily. Today, they serve not only a practical purpose but also offer a nostalgic glimpse into Japan’s onsen culture of yesteryear.
As you make your way up the steps, you’ll pass by dozens of traditional ryokan, small souvenir shops, and retro-style game arcades that evoke a sense of old-school Japan. There’s something special about the way these establishments are nestled tightly along the incline, creating an intimate atmosphere that you just don’t get in more sprawling resort towns. The scent of sulfur lingers in the air, the sound of geta clogs echoes softly, and every so often, you’ll spot a guest in a yukata making their way to or from the baths. It’s all part of the charm.
Before you leave the area, take a moment to grab one of Ikaho’s famous onsen manju from a nearby shop. These traditional steamed buns filled with sweet red bean paste are a local specialty and taste even better when enjoyed while soaking your feet in one of the free public foot baths scattered around town. It’s a small indulgence, but one that really captures the essence of the Ikaho experience. Few things hit quite like warm manju, a mineral-rich foot soak, and crisp mountain air.
By the way, if you’re just visiting for the day, know that there are still a couple of great spots where you can try Ikaho Onsen’s signature golden waters. One easy option is Ishidan-no-Yu, a public bath located near the base of the stone stairs. It’s simple, affordable, and ideal for those who just want a quick soak without too much fuss. There’s also Ika-no-Yu, another facility not far from the main stretch that offers a no-frills but authentic bathing experience. Both are inexpensive, easy to access, and perfect for getting a taste of what makes Ikaho Onsen’s iron-rich waters so beloved.
Kajika Bridge & Ikaho Shrine
At the very top of Ikaho Onsen’s iconic stone staircase, you’ll find Ikaho Shrine. Modest in size but rich in history, this centuries-old Shinto sanctum has long been a place of worship for those seeking blessings of health and good fortune. Its simple wooden architecture and tranquil setting make it a peaceful spot to catch your breath after the long climb. While not as flashy as some of Japan’s larger shrines, Ikaho Shrine has a quiet charm that fits the slower pace of the onsen town perfectly.
Just beyond the shrine, a short path through the woods will bring you to Kajika Bridge. Painted a brilliant vermilion and gracefully spanning a mountain stream, this arch is one of Ikaho Onsen’s most picturesque photo spots. It’s especially striking because it seems to appear out of nowhere, adding a nice little surprise for those who venture just a bit further past the main stone steps. Surrounded by dense trees and moss-covered rocks, the bridge is a reward for working your way up the many stairs.
Especially during the autumn months, Kajika Bridge is downright breathtaking when the foliage erupts in vivid shades of crimson and gold. Just past it though, you’ll find Ikaho Rotenburo, a rustic open-air bath that’s ideal for day trippers who want to experience the town’s signature iron-rich waters without staying overnight. Surrounded by nature and open to the elements, it offers a relaxing way to take in the scenery while enjoying the therapeutic benefits of Ikaho’s famed golden onsen.
Beyond a Day Trip to These Hot Springs
While it’s totally doable to visit Ikaho Onsen as a day trip from Tokyo, you’ll definitely be missing out if you don’t stick around for at least one night. The town has a quiet charm that really comes alive after dark, once the day-trippers have gone home and the streets begin to settle. There’s something special about wandering the softly lit stone steps in a yukata, the sound of geta on stone echoing in the cool mountain air. It’s a vibe that’s hard to replicate elsewhere and one that really shows why spending the night in an onsen town is worth it.
If you haven’t already planned a ryokan stay elsewhere in Japan, Ikaho Onsen is a great place to try one out. The inns here offer everything you’d expect from a traditional onsen experience, including tatami rooms, seasonal kaiseki meals using locally sourced ingredients, and access to both private and communal baths. Many are located right along the main staircase, so you’re never far from the heart of the action. Staying overnight also gives you the chance to enjoy the baths without rushing and to fully settle into the slower pace that defines an onsen getaway.
When you stay over, you can also explore some of Ikaho’s lesser-known attractions. For example, there’s a curious bit of history to indulge in at Hawaii’s Villa that hints at the town’s brief connection with the former short-lived Kingdom of Hawaii (1795–1893). Likewise, there is also the Ikaho Checkpoint, a small replica of the original station that once monitored movement between Gunma and Niigata. And for panoramic views, the Ikaho Ropeway will lift you above the treetops with clear-day vistas of the Japanese Alps.
Mt. Haruna & Haruna Shrine
As noted, Ikaho Onsen sits on the eastern side of Mt. Haruna, one of the so-called “Three Mountains of Jomo” alongside Mt. Akagi and Mt. Myogi. This sacred peak has been revered for centuries and is home to a shrine with over a thousand years of history. While it might be more straightforward to head directly to Ikaho Onsen, I highly recommend that travelers come up from Takasaki Station and explore Mt. Haruna first. Doing so adds a bit of adventure to the journey and lets you experience one of Gunma’s most spiritually charged spots before soaking in the hot spring town below.
Haruna Shrine is easily the highlight of any visit to Mt. Haruna. To get there, you’ll first pass through a large torii near the bus stop, then hike up a gentle 400-meter slope. At the top, you’ll find the shrine’s main gate, a striking structure that hints at its past as a syncretic Shinto and Buddhist site. The approach is one of the most atmospheric I’ve seen, lined with towering cedar trees, statues of the seven gods of fortune, and even a three-story pagoda. Deep within the grounds lies the shrine’s most impressive feature, where the prayer hall and main hall are built directly into the side of a massive natural rock pillar called Mizugata Rock.
After visiting Haruna Shrine, it’s worth continuing on to nearby Lake Haruna, a tranquil crater lake that formed after the mountain’s last eruption. While not a must-see on its own, the lake makes for a great lunch or photo stop, especially if you’re already heading toward Ikaho Onsen. In autumn, the surrounding forests explode in color, making it one of the more underrated fall foliage spots in Gunma Prefecture. Whether you just stroll along the lakeside or rent a swan boat in summer, it’s a peaceful contrast to the busy streets of Tokyo. During the winter, the lake even freezes over, making it a hub for ice fishing and skating.
For what it’s worth, know that to get to Mt. Haruna, you’ll want to start by taking a bus from Takasaki Station bound for a stop called Haruna-jinja. Keep in mind that buses to and from the mountain can be infrequent, so you’ll want to plan your timing carefully and check schedules in advance. After exploring the shrine and lake area, you can transfer to another bus that continues on to Ikaho Onsen. This route lets you take in both Mt. Haruna and the hot springs in one smooth trip. If you don’t have access to a rental car, this is easily the most logistically sound way to enjoy both locations without backtracking.
Other Nearby Attractions
Speaking purely logistically, there are a lot of places that you could tack onto an outing to Ikaho Onsen. Which ones you ultimately choose really depends on whether you’re doing a day trip or staying overnight, as well as where you plan to head after Ikaho Onsen. Remember, Takasaki Station — the nearest major transportation hub — sits at the point where the Joetsu and Hokuriku Shinkansen lines part ways. Because of this, the mountainous hot spring town fits into a ton of potential itineraries.
If you’re just doing a day trip, I’d personally stick with visiting the aforementioned Mt. Haruna and maybe try to squeeze in a pasta dinner back in Takasaki, as the city is surprisingly famed for the dish. If you want to spend a bit more time in Gunma, though, the other two Mountains of Jomo are also worth checking out. Known as Mt. Akagi and Mt. Myogi, both of these peaks have epic shrines that are worth a stop and are also well-known among fans of drifting, just like Mt. Haruna.
For most of you, though, the next step will be continuing on to Nagano, Niigata, Toyama, or Kanazawa. Since I already have detailed guides on all of these destinations elsewhere on the blog, I won’t make this article unnecessarily long by repeating everything here. With many travelers now on their second, third, or even tenth trip to Japan, these alternatives to mainstays like Kyoto have much more name recognition than they did even a decade ago.
To wrap things up, keep in mind that the Hokuriku Shinkansen now extends all the way to Tsuruga Station in Fukui Prefecture. That means you can easily hop on a train from Takasaki Station after exploring Ikaho Onsen and continue on to any of the destinations mentioned above. Just be sure you’ve got a regional rail pass like the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area), as it will make stringing together multiple bullet train rides like this far more affordable.
Until next time travelers…
