“Why the hell am I watching Initial D… On TikTok of all place!?!?” I was 45 minutes into a rather bad doom scroll, and the Algorithm Allfather had somehow decided that I was into an anime about car racing (I neither drive nor watch much anime, for the record). Unable to go back to sleep, I was continually bombarded by clips of Initial D as I mindlessly swiped through content. Watching the protagonist whiz down Mt. Akagi, I remembered something — I had yet to finish the Three Mountains of Jomo! Seeing as sleep wasn’t going to happen, I grabbed my trusty rucksack on a whim and headed out for Gunma.
While the story of how I ended up hiking much of Mt. Akagi is a bit of a comically random tale, the mountain itself is nothing to laugh at. Standing at over 1,800 meters tall, Mt. Akagi has long been considered a sacred site in Gunma Prefecture along with Mt. Haruna and Mt. Myogi. Together, these three mighty crags make up the Three Mountains of Jomo. Like its siblings, Mt. Akagi also has an important shrine in the upper reaches of its towering elevation. Luckily, you don’t need to hike Mt. Akagi to see it, as there is convenient bus access.
Speaking of hiking though, there are a number of great trails near the summit of Mt. Akagi. Most of these radiate out from the lagoon that currently occupies the dormant stratovolcano’s caldera. So, if you’re itching to get active on your next visit to Japan but don’t want to wander too far into the Japanese Alps to somewhere like Kamikochi, consider giving Mt. Akagi a go. I had an absolutely amazing time and left feeling refreshed in a way that only Japan’s mountains can achieve.
All things considered, Mt. Akagi and its lakeside Akagi Shrine have all the makings of a good day trip from Tokyo. While not necessarily a place I could recommend in good faith for first-time visitors to Japan, Mt. Akagi is certainly great for nature and outdoor enthusiasts who want to escape the chaos caused by overtourism and see somewhere that’s a a different side of the country. Whether in the summer or the winter, there is bound to be something to do on Mt. Akagi!
How to Get There
Getting to this part of Gunma is honestly not too difficult. Those looking to get a head start can expedite the first leg of their journey by taking the Shinkansen to Takasaki Station. This will get you there in around 50 minutes or so. Alternatively, you can do what I did and take the local line up. If you do this, I’d encourage you to opt for the Green Car. For just a few hundred more yen, you can have a guaranteed seat and travel untroubled by the threat of a crowded train.
Once you’re at Takasaki, you’ll need to take the Ryomo Line over to Maebashi Station. From there, you can catch a bus that will take you up to the higher parts of Mt. Akagi. En route, you’ll wind your way up the many hairpin turns that couldn’t be more perfectly suited to downhill drifting. As you’ll see if you go, it’s painfully obvious why Mt. Akagi was used as a home course in Initial D. There are drift marks all up and down the mountain!
You’ll want to plan out departures for your trip to Mt. Akagi. I use Jorudan for trains and then defaulted to Google Maps for buses. When doing calculations, use the Akagi Hiroba Bus Stop as your jumping on and off point. Especially on the return trip, be extra careful of when the last bus is because it’s a long way down the mountain if you miss it, and no taxi is going to come up there to get you.
Of course, if you can drive and have a rental car, Mt. Akagi is one heck of an adventure. Just try not to get caught up in any drift battles, please. You, dear reader, are likely no Fujiwara Takumi and probably don’t have a souped-up Trueno AE86 on hand here in Japan either (OK, and with that, we are not talking about Initial D anymore).
Finally, before moving on, allow me to suggest staying over one the night before if you plan to hike. While the towering crags of Gunma aren’t really all that hard to get to, they do take some time. So you can get an early start on the day, consider staying the night at somewhere like the Dormy Inn in front of Maebashi Station so that you can get an early start on the day.
The Allures of Mount Akagi
As alluded to before, Mt. Akagi has a wide variety of appeal depending on what you are into and when you visit. For me, the main draw was first and foremost Akagi Shrine. Located on a small peninsula that juts out into Lake Onoma, Akagi Shrine is easily one of the most scenic Shinto sanctuaries in all of Japan. The vermillion of the shrine buildings contrasts beautifully with the deep blue of nearby Lake Onuma.
Usually, there is a charming bridge that connects the lake’s shore with the peninsula where Akagi Shrine is situated. Unfortunately, it is currently under construction, but you can still work your way over on foot. When hoofing it over from the Akagi Hiroba though, be careful as you’ll need to walk on the road. While you should be fine, there will be cars passing from behind, so stick as close to the guard rail as you can.
Akagi Shrine is famous for being a place that people make pilgrimages to. In addition to people visiting for celebrations like Shichi-Go-San, it’s also notorious as a place where people go for exorcisms and to invoke the enshrined deity of Mt. Akagi for pregnancies. Moreover, if you happen to be visiting in August, you can also catch the annual summer festival and see some amazing Yabusame (mounted horseback archery).
In addition to the shrine, there are also a lot of other activities to do up on Mt. Akagi. During the summer, you can rent a boat and leisurely row your way across Lake Onuma. Additionally, there are the previously noted hiking trails that ascend from the caldera in all directions. During my visit to Mt. Akagi, I ended up challenging both the Jizodake and Kurobiyama peaks, which made for one heck of an aggressive day.
If you need to make a choice, I’d suggest Kurobiyama. Officially the highest point on Mt. Akagi, this rocky spire is home to the small but scenic Kurobiyama Shrine. Additionally, there is also the Kurobiyama View Point nearby, which sports epic views of all of Lake Onuma down below in the caldera. What’s more, on days when the visibility is especially good, you’ll be treated to a panoramic view that extends all the way to Mt. Nikko-Shirane by Lake Chuzenji in Nikko.
Come winter, hiking becomes a lot less appealing due to the presence of copious amounts of snow. While early autumn can be a great time to visit Mt. Akagi for the fall foliage when the trees are at their best, the colder months of the year make outdoor adventures something that only the pros should tackle. Still, if you want to try wakasagi ice fishing on Lake Onuma, winter is a great time to do so on Mt. Akagi.
Other Nearby Attractions
First things first, let me say that if you haven’t done any of the other two crags in Gunma, you really should look into also visiting Mt. Myogi and Mt. Haruna. The former is one of my favorite spots for the cherry blossoms, whereas the latter is home to one of the most solemn shrines that I’ve seen in my travels to date. For more information on those, refer to hyperlinks in this paragraph as I have standalone guides on both locales.
Back over by Mt. Akagi, one spot you might consider adding to your outing is Fujimi Onsen. Nestled into the foothills around halfway down Mt. Akagi’s twisting slopes, this hot spring features both indoor and outdoor baths as well as a sauna. Given that it has a restaurant on the premises, it’s a great addition for day trippers who need to head back to Tokyo. By stopping here, you can enjoy a soak with a great view and refuel after your time hiking.
Finally, while there isn’t too much to note around Maebashi Station, the city itself is home to a few items of note. For example, Rinkokaku is a set of three wooden buildings that once served as a state-run guest house for VIPs. Built in the late 1800s, it’s a prime example of what Japanese architecture looked like as the country started to modernize. Nearby Rinkokaku, you’ll also the retro find Luna Park which is great for kids.
Until next time travelers…
