For the past year, I’ve been working with the Setouchi DMO to help promote the region internationally via the press and on social media. Over the many moons that we’ve collaborated together, I’ve learned a great deal about this amazing part of Japan. Looking back at my original feature on Setouchi, I am embarrassed to say that my introductory guide omits oh so many places. Today, I’d like to introduce you to one such place, the historic townscape of Mitarai.
If you haven’t heard about Mitarai before, know that you are likely not alone. I mean, even I only learned about this hidden gem due to my ongoing work with the Setouchi DMO. Situated far out on the Seto Inland Sea at the end of a long chain of islands, Mitarai is a town that’s frozen in time. In the days of yesteryear, it was a flourishing port town where travelers would need to stay and wait for more favorable tides. To accommodate the influx of visitors, the grid-like townscape intermixes lodgings, residences, and tea houses.
Now, getting to Mitarai isn’t exactly easy. I’ll cover the logistics in a second but first know that one of the main reasons why you should consider visiting is that the town is exemplary for understanding Setouchi. Like with the more well-known Tomonoura, Mitarai is a product of the Seto Inland Sea’s tidal flux. Boasting one of the highest differentials between high and low tides in the world, even modern ships struggle to battle against the ebb and flow of the Seto Inland Sea.
Though Hiroshima and Miyajima are the most visited spots in the Setouchi region, it’s my opinion that a location like Mitarai is far more iconic of what constitutes the local culture. Forced to wait for the tides, whole industries ranging from food and lodging to entertainment (of ummmm… all varieties) sprung up in ports like Mitarai to cater to the demand. After all, what’s better than a captive customer?
All in all, Mitarai is a great addition for anyone who loves getting off the beaten path and wants to really understand what makes Setouchi the special place that it is. While you will likely want to have a rental car to explore it, the townscape of Mitarai is just the kind of journey that I envision for readers of this blog. It perfectly combines narrative, place, and beauty in a way that makes one’s travels feel far more meaningful than the crowded mainstays.
Oh, and note to all of the cyclists out there. Mitarai is located along what is known as the Tobishima Kaido. Not to be confused with the Shimanami Kaido, this route consists of seven islands that are all interconnected by a series of steel bridges. Locally, Tobishima Kaido is known to be a popular, albeit challenging, cycling route. I’ll include a bit more on this at the end of the article so do read all the way to the end if you’re the kind of person who enjoys long rides!
How to Get There
I am going to tell it straight. Getting to Mitarai is a real pain if you don’t have access to your own set of wheels. Simply put, the public transportation access out to the seven islands on the Tobishima Kaido is not the best. While you can certainly do it, I highly recommend that you instead make use of a rental car. You’ll have a lot more freedom to explore some other areas along the way and also not be beholden to the infrequent bus schedules.
Should you not be able to drive like me (and don’t have friends at the local DMO who want to take you everywhere), know that you can indeed make it out to Mitarai via bus. To begin with, you’ll want to take JR’s Kure Line down to Kure Station. From there, you’ll want to hop on one of the Tobishima Liners that are operated by Sanyo Bus. These will take you out to Mitarai in around 90 minutes or so, and the bus stop you want to keep an eye out for is Mitarai Port.
While I usually like to recommend the service Jorudan for calculating train departures, I’ve recently started making a lot more use of Google Maps for buses. Unlike Jorudan, Google Maps has a visual representation of the route which also includes a guide on how to get to the stop. When navigating the countryside via bus, I find that this additional information helps me feel reassured that I am indeed heading in the right direction.
Places of Note in Mitarai
Once you’re in Mitarai, you’re going to want to budget for at least a solid hour or two to just meander around the townscape. Registered as an Important Preservation District for Groups of Historic Buildings in 1994, Mitarai has an endearing charm that is quite characteristic of the Setouchi region. Due to the rather small confines of the seaside hamlet, most of the infrastructure is cramped together, giving Mitarai a rather maze-like feel.
As you waltz around Mitarai, you’ll want to ensure that you swing by some, if not all, of the following locations. To help you plan your route, I’ll include a link to a Google Map…
- Ino Tadataka Map Museum
If you’re an OG reader and somehow recognize the name from my article on Sawara way over in Chiba Prefecture, props to you. For the rest of you, know that Ino Tadataka was Japan’s first cartographer. During the 1800s, he surveyed the entire country and many of his maps can be found at this local museum in Mitarai. While it’s all in Japanese, it’s worth quickly popping in to check it out. - Otomeza Geisha Theatre
Extremely easy to miss, this pre-World War II facility has seen a lot of use over the years. Previously a theater for performing geisha, it then became a movie theater in the middle of the 1900s. Recently, the building has been refurbished and now offers a chance to slip back in time to see what life in Mitarai would have been like years ago. Entry is 200 yen, but it’s a great place to take a quick break while enjoying the vibe. - Sumiyoshi Shrine
There’s not much to say about the local Sumiyoshi Shrine in Mitarai other than it has a quaint charm (especially when the cherry blossoms on the grounds are blooming in spring). Located right by the port area, you can imagine that many souls venturing out to sea must have prayed here over the years for a safe voyage. - Mitarai’s Stone Lighthouse
Found immediately adjacent to Sumiyoshi Shrine, the wharf and stone lighthouse of Mitarai are really something to behold. Like with the similar spire at the aforementioned Tomonoura, these scenes are really symbolic of the Setouchi region and do a great job at illustrating what life in the region was like. - Rekishi-no-Mieruoka Park
Located on the bluff right behind the town, this park offers a panoramic view of Mitarai and the Seto Inland Sea. Literally translated, the name means “The Park Where You Can See History,” but, somewhat disappointingly, the history being referenced here is Mitarai itself. Unless you like climbing for climbing’s sake, you can probably skip this one. - The Gate of Possibilities
Found at the local Tenmangu Shrine, this gate is said to have the power to make any wish come true. The passageway sits out back of the shrine’s haiden (prayer hall), so keep an eye out for it while in Mitarai! Note that like with Mitarai’s Sumiyoshi Shrine, Tenmangu Shrine itself is also extremely beautiful during the spring when the ground’s cherry blossoms are in full bloom.
By the way, if you’re a fan of slow travel and want to stay out on the island where Mitarai is located, know that there is a guest house or two where you can spend the night. While you won’t find any luxurious resorts here like Azumi Setoda over on the Shimanami Kaido, the humble lodging options in Mitarai are suitable enough to get a night’s rest.
Shoto-en & the Rantokaku Art Museum
While not part of the townscape of Mitarai, there are a few attractions along the way that I highly suggest you check out. Chief among these is Shoto-en. Located on Shimo-Kamagarishima, the first island on the Tobishima Kaido, this part of Hiroshima Prefecture was also a prosperous port town on the Seto Inland Sea. Though Mitarai has a much more visible legacy in the present day, there is ample evidence of this area’s mercantile past if you know where to look.
If you have time, I highly suggest that you swing by Shoto-en. Though you’ll likely only want to do this if you have access to a rental car, this beautiful Japanese garden boasts perfectly kept grounds. Sporting a traditional aesthetic, Shoto-en’s raked pebble fields and evergreen trees will make you feel as if you’re a wealthy merchant from the Edo period (1603–1868). In fact, Shoto-en’s primary use was as a reception center for Korean envoys to Japan a few hundred years ago.
Nearby Shoto-en, you’ll also find the Rantokaku Art Museum. Housed in an authentic wooden building that is indicative of the island’s former glory as a center for trade and shipping, this museum’s name is derived from the many noble orchids that flourish on Shimo-Kamagarishima. Inside the facility, you’ll find over 2,000 masterpieces by local artists that run the gamut from Japanese-style paintings to oil paintings, prints, and drawings. Entry will set you back a few hundred yen.
Other Nearby Attractions
While this applies to those traveling to Mitarai via rental car as well, anyone making use of the buses really ought to budget enough time to check out Kure on the way back. Here, you’ll find the Yamato Museum, dedicated to the biggest battleship that was ever made. This facility tells a side of Hiroshima’s role in World War II that few foreign tourists ever see. Since you need to transfer to the Kure Line to get back to Hiroshima anyway, it’s worth taking the time to visit the Yamato Museum too.
For those of you with more flexible transportation than the buses, I highly suggest making a slight detour over to the island of Okamurajima. The final isle on the Tobishima Kaido, Okamurajima is actually part of Shikoku’s Ehime Prefecture. Seeing as it’s right next to the island where Mitarai resides, this might seem puzzling at first, but it’s actually a result of the tides. Simply put, Mitarai had favorable currents north towards Hiroshima, whereas Okamurajima’s currents run south to Imabari.
While there isn’t really much per se to Okamurajima, it’s one of those experiences that deeply helps you understand the Setouchi region as a whole. In a way that you can’t really get elsewhere, seeing how these two islands have long belonged to different domains really hammers home how important the tidal currents are to Setouchi’s history and cultural legacy. If you want, you can actually skip going back to Hiroshima altogether and instead catch a ferry down to Imabari (you can take cars onboard).
Finally, allow me to end this section by talking about the Tobishima Kaido as it pertains to cycling. I originally stumbled upon Mitarai when doing research for a Setouchi DMO newsletter on cycling routes in the region that weren’t the Shimanami Kaido. Ever since, I was itching to visit and had actually been planning to ride my way out. Luckily for me, I had the chance to visit Mitarai without destroying my legs thanks to the staff at the DMO.
Why luckily, you ask? Well, as previously alluded to, the Tobishima Kaido is one of the toughest cycling routes around. The seven bridges that interconnect the various islands all require one to haul their behinds up some hefty hills. Moreover, the path has many more ups and downs, meaning that you’re going to be a hot and sweaty mess by the time you reach Mitarai. What’s more, unlike the more well-established Shimanami Kaido, the Tobishima Kaido has little infrastructure, so come prepared.
Should you be up to the challenge, be sure to go around the islands clockwise, as all cyclists are legally required to ride on the left side of the road. This will ensure that you are always on the Seto Inland Sea side of the road, making the experience much more pleasurable. If this sounds like something you’d like to try, be sure to do some research online about where you can rent a bike and what type of options they have available in advance, as English support will not be what it is on the Shimanami Kaido.
Until next time travelers…
