Today, I’d like to talk to you about Kumano — no, not that Kumano in Wakayama. Instead, this time, we’re going to look at the sleepy town of Kumano in Hiroshima Prefecture. Likely, most of you have never heard of this hamlet before. Heck, I only recently learned about Hiroshima’s Kumano last year when I started working with the Setouchi DMO to promote the region overseas. Despite its obscurity, Kumano is internationally famous for its fude brushes.
How a village located in this mountainous area of Hiroshima Prefecture became so celebrated in both Japan and the rest of the world is quite the tale. Allegedly, Kumano’s master craftsmen got their start way back in the Edo period (1603–1868) when the local lord wanted to create a new industry to supplement what his farmers could produce. Since its inception hundreds of years ago, this Japanese artisanal culture has continued to thrive in the town of Kumano.
These days, around 1,500 of the 27,000 inhabitants of Kumano are involved in the industry. Altogether, this comparatively small population produces a mind-boggling 15 million fude brushes per year. From what I’ve learned online, this accounts for as much as 80% of Japan’s total brush production. Because of this, Kumano has earned the title of “Calligraphy Brush Capital of Japan.”
Unfortunately, the demand for calligraphy brushes has been dropping year over year. Not wanting to let the Kumano fude brush brand go to waste, the industry has shifted a lot of its infrastructure to also create makeup accessories. Due to their handmade nature and extremely high quality, they’ve become highly sought after by high-end makeup artists all over the world. Before we go any further, though, let’s cover some key logistics.
How to Get There
As you can see in the Google Map embedded above, Kumano is located to the southeast of Hiroshima City. Being situated high up in the mountains of the prefecture, it’s actually inaccessible by train. Because of this, you’re going to need to make use of a few local buses to get there. While navigating schedules and making bus connections can often be a headache, Google Maps can do much of the heavy lifting for you, so just refer to it in advance of your outing.
Once you’re in Kumano, you’re going to need to do a bit of walking unless you’ve come by rental car. Though having your own set of wheels is indeed the more convenient means of getting around Kumano, you’re going to want to be sure that you’re a confident driver. Simply put, many of the streets that weave in and out of Kumano’s townscape are nerve-wrackingly narrow, meaning that newbie drivers will have a hard time navigating.
Luckily, Kumano is not too spread out, and you can easily walk from each of the major spots on foot in a matter of minutes. Moreover, Kumano fude brush fans are likely going to spend most of their time indoors either marveling at the craftsmanship or trying their hand at one of the experiences on offer. In either case, you won’t really need to waltz your way around Kumano too much….
Kumano Brushes & the Local Shrine
One of the must-visit spots in Kumano is Sakakiyama Shrine. Perched upon a bluff in the mountainous foothills of the area, this ancient sanctuary is said to be over a millennium old. Supposedly dating from the year 933, Sakakiyama Shrine purports to have ties with Usa Jingu in Oita Prefecture. Sadly, the original structure no longer exists as the site was burned to the ground in a fire back in 1715. One of the tragic side effects of this was that any and all documentation for Sakakiyama Shrine also went up in flames, meaning that we’ll never really know its true legacy.
The present main hall dates from the 1700s and has been designated as an important cultural property of Kumano. Boasting a size that is a little larger than many other shrines of its caliber, Sakakiyama Shrine is a pleasant add-on to any trip to Kumano. When visiting, be sure to note that there are actually three shrines that occupy this hilly range in Hiroshima Prefecture. Alongside Sakakiyama Shrine, you’ll also find another hall called Kumano Hongu (again, not to be confused with the ones in Wakayama).
While the site originally did not have any connection with brush making, it has come to face the fact that Kumano is now irrevocably intertwined with the craft. As a result, Sakakiyama Shrine now hosts the annual Kumano Brush Festival. Held every year on the autumn equinox, this annual celebration draws people from all over Japan. In addition to calligraphy brush dances and whatnot, the festival also offers a number of food stalls too.
If you happen to be visiting in late September, I highly suggest that you consider swinging by the Kumano Brush Festival. It is truly a sight to behold, especially when master calligraphers from all over Japan come to Sakakiyama Shrine and collectively burn their well-worn brushes in an act of gratitude for the tool!
On Kumano Makeup Brushes
The legacy of Kumano brushes, of course, begins with tools used for calligraphy as seen above. However, while this time-honored art form continues to be practiced today, there are fewer and fewer examples of young Japanese wanting to partake. Seeing an inevitable end in sight, some of the more prominent craftsmen conglomerates in Kumano decided to shift their production process to also accommodate the latent demand for fude brushes to be used on the face for makeup.
When I was in Kumano, I was told that most of the master brush makers in the town specialize in only one or the other. Due to the requirements for dual workshops, only a brand like Koyudo that is large enough to support two facilities can reliably do both makeup and calligraphy fude brushes. What worries me is that as the need for calligraphy brushes drops year-on-year, those shops that can’t make the shift are on a crash course with eventual economic hardship.
Personally, though, I also think that it’s kind of cool that some of the brush industry in Kumano managed to figure out a way to continue to produce calligraphy brushes by making the necessary shifts to also sell makeup accessories. Japan has so many amazing crafts out there, but many of them are suffering because the ones doing the production are oftentimes quite bad at marketing their wares to the world.
What’s more, it’s also pretty neat that the demand for Kumano makeup fude brushes is so strong internationally. It seems that all of this happened organically too, as one high-end makeup specialist spread the word of Kumano’s brushes to another. As a result, these works of art from the hilly parts of Hiroshima are used in the entertainment world all across the globe.
Make Your Own Kumano Brush
If you want to get a hands-on education on how the makeup brushes are made in Kumano, you can do so at Koyudo’s specialized facility. In addition to an interesting explanation on how these alternatives to calligraphy brushes originated in Kumano, you’ll also get the chance to make your own brush too. Whether as a gift for someone back home or for personal use, being able to make your own goat hair makeup fude brushes is a good way to liven up your time in the town of Kumano.
Note that most of the hard work is already done for you by a team of dedicated Japanese craftsmen working in one of Koyudo’s other warehouses. Unlike the one where you can try your hand at assembling makeup brushes, this joint exists solely to process the hairs of animals. Here, the talented experts remove all of the oils from the animal hair in advance so the workers of the town can ply their craft more efficiently.
If you’re going to stop by Koyudo, I’d suggest calling in advance to see if they are offering brush making experiences that day. Alternatively, you can take a look here for more information, though you’re going to need to make use of Google Translate to understand the content…
Other Nearby Attractions
If you’re coming all the way up to Kumano, I suggest you at least make time to have lunch while in town. During my recent visit with the staff members from Setouchi DMO, we ended up having some really good grub at a joint called Okahan Shoten. Though they serve generous portions of traditional Japanese meals, the restaurant is also incredibly well-priced too. All in all, it’s a great way to end your trip to Kumano after learning about the origins of Hiroshima’s calligraphy brushes.
As for other attractions nearby, I’ll be honest and say that those of you without a rental car would just do well to head back to Hiroshima Station via the way you came. Should you have one, though, I suggest you consider heading down to Kure. Situated to the south of Kumano, this vital port and shipbuilding city on the Seto Inland Sea formerly served as the headquarters of the Kure Naval District during World War II (meaning that it’s great for history buffs).
If you do go to Kure, I suggest that you check out the Yamato Museum. This facility chronicles the history of Kure and features a 1:10 scale replica of the battleship, the Yamato. Made here in Kure, the Yamato was the largest vessel of its kind ever produced. Even at one-tenth of the size of the original, the sight of the Yamato Museum’s replica will leave you speechless. It’s an interesting way to dive into the often overlooked wartime legacy of this part of Japan.
Finally, while I can’t really say that I recommend it as somewhere that logistically works well with Kumano, my troupe and I made our way out to the historical townscape of Mitarai via the Tobishima Kaido. Far less famous than its cousin, the Shimanami Kaido, this series of multiple bridges will take you across a number of islands. Notorious for being an extremely tough cycling route, it’s a great hidden gem to explore if you have a rental car at hand!
Until next time travelers…
