Last year, while escorting a few journalists from the UK as part of my ongoing work with the Setouchi DMO, I had the chance to finally visit the impressive Kosan-ji temple complex. Located along the Shimanami Kaido on the island of Ikuchijima, Kosan-ji is actually a relatively new location having only been completed in the 1960s after 30 years of constant construction. Allegedly, the successful businessman who founded Kosan-ji did so out of dedication to his late mother. Talk about familial ties!
Despite not being a UNESCO World Heritage Site nor boasting any of the ancient architecture that you might find at one of Japan’s many important cultural properties, Kosan-ji is still definitely worth a visit. Especially if you’re taking it slow along the Shimanami Kaido (which I recommend) and enjoying all of the spots along the way, Kosan-ji and the Miraishin-no-Oka or “Hill of Eternal Hope” in English are definitely worth your time.
By the way, if you feel this weird sense of déjà vu as you meander about Kosan-ji, know that means that you’re well traveled. You see, the temple grounds house a number of buildings that were modeled after some of Japan’s most esteemed national treasures. At Kosan-ji, you’ll find a replica of Nikko Toshogu’s ornate Yomeimon Gate as well as Byodo-in’s beautiful “Phoenix Hall.” It’s hard to believe that all of this arose from a son’s debt to his deceased mother.
How to Get There
If you’re cycling the Shimanami Kaido, know that getting to Kosan-ji is as easy as can be. All you need to do is follow the route as normal and you’ll likely pass right by it. Seeing as there are a good number of locales that you should plan to see along the Shimanami Kaido, taking it slow and staying at some of the amazing ryokan along the way like Azumi Setoda is highly recommended. Not only will this give you more time to explore but it’s easier on the body.
For those of you not interested in cycling, know that Kosan-ji is still worth visiting as an add-on to Onomichi or somewhere else in the region. When I went, I took one of the first buses in the early morning from Onomichi Station out to Setoda Port. On the way back to the mainland from Ikuchijima after guiding the UK journalists, I alternatively opted to take a ferry to Mihara so there are many potential ways to skin this proverbial cat.
If you aren’t continuing on to Imabari via the Shimanami Kaido, you should plan on getting an early start as I did so that you can get back to the mainland. While I did go to Mihara via ferry, I’d suggest that readers of this blog try to time their return with the buses going to Onomichi Station. This way, you can experience this amazing port town on the Seto Inland Sea (but more on that later).
What to See at Kosan-ji
As soon as you enter the grounds of Kosan-ji, you’ll be presented with the gaudy gate pictured above. Inspired heavily by the Yomeimon Gate of Nikko Toshogu, the entrance to Kosan-ji is every bit as impressive as the original. Despite depicting a different wooden statue set, the main gate of Kosan-ji is definitely worth pausing to marvel at and this is even more the case when the autumn foliage is at its best.
Just beyond the main gate, you’ll come across the primary precincts of Kosan-ji. Here, there are a number of interesting spots and subsections to check out. I’ll list them here below but know that the expansive temple grounds take a solid hour or two to thoroughly explore. Thus, you’re going to want to budget for ample time, especially if you’re heading back to Onomichi.
- The Cave of 1,000 Buddhas
This long cave weaves its way under all of the main temple buildings and is said to represent a descent into Buddhist hell. As you wind your way throughout the network of underground corridors, you’ll pass a number of paintings depicting heaven and hell as well as countless Buddhist statues before finally reemerging back in the world of the living. - The Kannon Statue
At the end of the winding series of caves and staircases, you’ll come out at an impressive statue of Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy and compassion. The 15-meter-tall effigy is your reward for passing through the symbolic trials of death and rebirth that one is said to undergo when traversing the aforementioned series of caves. - The Choseikaku Villa
Located on the grounds of Kosan-ji, the Choseikaku Villa is one of the most illustrious buildings in the prefecture and was erected by a wealthy businessman who made his fortune in the steel pipe manufacturing industry.
In addition to these three, there is also one more standout but that spot deserves its own subsection. So, without further ado, let’s take a look at Kosan-ji’s marble marvel…
The Hill of Hope
In addition to Kosan-ji’s impressive array of buildings, the temple is also home to the Miraishin-no-Oka. Often rendered in English as the “Hill of Hope” or even the “Hill of Eternal Hope,” this entire hillside is a work of art unto itself. Worthy of being depicted on a hanging picture scroll, this beautiful part of the temple actually contains no religious references and is just an aesthetically pleasing masterpiece.
From what I can gather, the Miraishin-no-Oka’s flooring and sculpture are all made from Carrara marble, a white or blue-gray substance from northwest Italy that is known for its gray veins and luxurious appeal. Seeing as the businessman cum Buddhist monk who funded the construction of Kosan-ji likely had to import it from Eruope, this goes to show how devoted he was to his familiar ties.
At the very peak, you’ll find the spire seen above. This abstract structure is known as the “Tower of Light” and is emblematic of Kosan-ji. Nearby, you’ll also find Cafe Cuore as well. This restaurant is made entirely of the same kind of marble as the rest of the space and is a great way to kill some time while you wait for your Onomichi Station-bound bus.
Other Nearby Attractions
While I sincerely hope that Kosan-ji and the Miraishin-no-Oka are to your liking, there is just so much more nearby to see and do. For example, immediately across the street, you’ll find the Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art. Likewise, there are many more spots further along the Shimanami Kaido too that are worth your time before you ultimately arrive in Imabari.
For the purposes of this article, I am going to assume that you’ll be heading back to Onomichi. Simply put, there are more than enough guides out there about cycling the Shimanami Kaido so I want to take a second to highlight a part of the route that many people miss — namely, the starting point of Onomichi. More than just where you get a set of wheels, Onomichi is worth a day in and of itself.
Though it’s true that Onomichi is a port town that is most famous for its temple walk, those in a rush can at least do Senko-ji. Perched high up on a mountain, the temple’s infrastructure overlooks the island of Mukaishima and the beginning bridges of the Shimanami Kaido. If you want to learn more about Onomichi, I suggest you check out my area guide as I’ve already covered it at length before.
Note that while Onomichi does have its own bullet train station, those looking to take the Shinkansen over to Hiroshima or somewhere else would do better to just head on over to Fukuyama Station. From there, you can have far more convenient access than you would at the comparatively hard-to-get-to Shin-Onomichi Station.
Until next time travelers…
