Just as is the case with the cherry blossoms, Japan has a lot of amazing locations for the hydrangea season. Over the years, I’ve been to many of the popular spots like Kamakura’s Meigetsu-in, but few places can compare with the magic of Unsho-ji. Located up in Akita Prefecture on the Oga Peninsula, this sleepy, countryside temple transforms into a breathtaking spectacle that is worthy of a trip up to Tohoku.
Generally, hydrangeas are flowers that take different colors due to the acidic condition of the soil in which they are planted. As a result, you’ll usually find that gardens elsewhere are a hodgepodge of lollipop-like blues, purples, and pinks. The ones at Unsho-ji, however, are almost always a deep shade of blue. When set against the lush green of early summer, this creates the amazing spectacle that you can see pictured throughout this piece.
While Unsho-ji is certainly not a beginner’s destination, it is exactly the type of amazing locale that I would want readers of this blog to experience. Should you ever happen to find yourself in Japan during the start of summer, I highly suggest that you head up north to Tohoku and check out the hydrangea-carpeted grounds of Akita’s Unsho-ji. When combined with the nearby Namahage Museum, this tiny temple has all the makings of an amazing trip.
How to Get There
I’ll be frank and say that getting to Unsho-ji is not easy. If you’re willing to commit to the journey though, it’s bound to be an unforgettable one. To start, you’re going to want to take one of the bullet trains to Tohoku. More specifically, you’ll want to be on the Komachi Shinkansen, as the Hayabusa splits off at Morioka Station. For this leg of the journey, you’ll want to make your way first to Akita Station via the Komachi Shinkansen.
Once you’re in Akita City, you’ll need to make a call. By far, the easiest option from here is to rent a car if you can drive in Japan. Though the winding streets around Unsho-ji are a bit hard to navigate, it makes getting to and from the temple far easier. If you can’t rent a car, your only other option is to take the local train up to Oga Station. Seeing as these trains are infrequent, you’ll want to double-check with Jorudan or a similar service for departure times.
Unfortunately, Unsho-ji is situated a long way from the station. Thankfully though, I’ve got a bit of a hack. Simply stay a night at one of the several ryokan found over at Oga Onsen. In addition to enjoying a soak in the hot springs and a Namahage taiko performance, most of these accommodations will pick you up from the station. This way, you can get closer to where Unsho-ji is on the northern side of the Oga Peninsula without needing to take a taxi.
Finally, before getting to Unsho-ji itself, know that hotel inventory around this time of year can be woefully sparse on weekends. When I visited Unsho-ji back in 2022, ALL the rooms in the vicinity of Akita were fully booked. My travel companion and I actually were planning to go all the way over to Kakunodate before this hilarious happening FUBARed our trip. While the blame can’t fully be put on Unsho-ji, it certainly does manage to bring more people than normal!
Visiting During Hydrangea Season
For most months of the year, Unsho-ji’s temple grounds are charming but otherwise unassuming. Beginning around mid-June, however, the space starts to transform into an ethereally enchanting slice of heaven as the hydrangeas begin to bloom. Due to Unsho-ji being hidden away up in Akita Prefecture, the hydrangea season here falls a bit later than in more well-known spots like Kamakura’s Hase-dera. For full bloom, you’ll want to aim for late June or even early July.
In terms of things to do at Unsho-ji, there isn’t really anywhere specific that you have to check out. Instead, the main draw here is the vibrant blue flowers that blanket the entire complex. Throughout, you’ll find a series of winding pathways that snake their way through the hydrangeas. Honestly, it’s a wonderful experience and something that you can really enjoy as you stroll about. Just note that there can be crowds on the weekends, so expect to encounter people trying to get shots for the Gram.
One section of the temple worth noting is the small bamboo grove. Here, there are some stone seats and a Japanese umbrella that make for a great shot. There’s also an adorable Jizo statue right in front of Unsho-ji’s main temple building. When set against the bright blue of the hydrangeas, this makes for a great shot, and you’ll often find a professional cameraman here taking photos for people willing to wait in line.
Other Nearby Attractions
After you get your fill of hydrangeas, budget enough time to see some of the many other attractions in Oga City. To begin with, you’d be foolish to skip the famed Namahage Museum. Found just a stone’s throw away from Unsho-ji, this facility tells all about the fearsome Namahage. Seen above, these beings exist to scare the locals into getting their act together and being productive members of society.
In addition to the Namahage Museum, there are many other hidden gems in Oga City. Rather than let this article devolve into a diatribe about all the cool spots up here (like the Godzilla-shaped rock formation), I’ll instead direct you to my standalone guide on the region. This exposé on the area already includes everything you could ever want to learn about the Oga Peninsula, so be sure to give it a read if you’re going hydrangea hunting!
Finally, know that Akita itself has much more to see than just what you’ll find on the Oga Peninsula. If you’re going to travel all the way up here to see some hydrangeas, you should do yourself a favor and budget some time to see more than just the pretty blue flowers. Luckily, I’ve already served up the ultimate treatise to all of Akita Prefecture, so just refer to that masterpiece for more details.
Until next time travelers…
