Anyone who follows me on social media knows I am very much a fan of the Shonan area and especially Kamakura. I frequently visited this region over the summer months while continuing my quest to source content for this site as well as other social media channels. As one might expect, I was quite shocked to find yet another location that had exceeded my expectations. Known as Hase-dera, the temple sits in the Hase neighborhood, a short walk inland from the shores of Sagami Bay and Yuigahama beach, on the same western-Kamakura hillside that also holds the Great Buddha.
Hase-dera is most famous for its hydrangeas that bloom every May and June during Japan’s rainy season. However, due to their popularity, lines to enter the temple grounds often swell to wait times of up to two hours. This, coupled with the fact that Hase-dera is very much situated along the tourist track, has dissuaded me from venturing past the unremarkable temple gates until now. Yet, much like my experiences viewing Kamakura’s famous giant Buddha statue, I feel the crowds tend to diminish the temple’s aura of spirituality. During peak bloom the hillside hydrangea path often requires its own numbered ticket on top of regular admission, so the official site is worth a look before you commit to a weekend in the rain.
Honestly, I had written off the temple somewhere between seeing the busloads of Japanese and Chinese tourists pulling into Hase-dera’s parking lot and its location on the “normal” Kamakura itinerary. Needless to say, when I found myself drifting towards Hase-dera on a drizzly Sunday morning, I was rather surprised to discover what the temple’s simple exterior had been concealing all along. I highly recommend visiting Hase-dera, but again, try to avoid the midday crowds if possible.
How to Get There
Hase-dera is located in southwestern Kamakura and nestled seamlessly within the hills of the valley that encase the ancient capital. The easiest way to get to Kamakura is via the JR Yokosuka Line from Tokyo, Shimbashi, or Shinagawa stations. If you are not staying near the Yamanote loop line then I suggest you consult Jorudan to map out your best route to Kamakura. Once on JR’s Yokosuka Line, the trip is a 50-minute, one-shot journey into Kamakura from those central stations, a little under that if you board at Shinagawa. After arriving at Kamakura Station, visitors can opt to walk west toward Hase-dera or hop a ride on the vintage Enoden line from Kamakura to Hase Station, then walk about five minutes to the gate.
My preferred route to Hase Temple actually involves some walking and a short detour; first, a visit to Sasuke Inari Shrine and then on to the Zeniarai Benten. I absolutely recommend my fellow travelers check out both sites! When you are ready to leave these two spots, a back road will take you directly to the Daibutsu at Kotoku-in. From there you can easily make your way to the nearby Hase-dera but make sure to stop in for the local Shirasu-don special on the way!
Here’s a map showing the location of Hase-dera at 3-11-2 Hase. The grounds open at 8:00 every morning, when the temple bell is struck at the gate. From July through March they close at 17:00, with last entry at 16:30; from April through June they close at 17:30, with last entry at 17:00. Get an early start and be mindful of the time as you may want to take in Kotoku-in or other sites along the way, and the stairs plus the caves eat more minutes than the map suggests.
A Temple of Mercy
Legend holds that Hase-dera was originally established over 1,200 years ago though temple documents note the founding as being during the Kamakura period (1185–1333). Today, Hase-dera is part of the Jodo sect of Buddhism and is famous for its wooden Kannon statue measuring 9.18 meters tall. Known in Chinese as Guanyin and in Sanskrit as Avalokitesvara, Kannon is the bodhisattva associated with compassion and mercy. The statue is housed in the main temple hall, which sits on the mid-slope terrace of western Kamakura. The terrace on which Hase-dera’s core structures are built offers some STUNNING views of Sagami Bay and the Kamakura valley.
Entering the grounds of Hase-dera costs 400 yen for adults and 200 yen for children ages six through 11. The temple has installed electronic ticketing machines outside of the main gate to streamline the entry process. Certainly these machines seem out of place yet they are a welcome addition for the monks who tend to the grounds. In addition, these ticket machines are a valuable asset during the rainy season when throngs of visitors descend upon the temple. I’m all for overlooking this potential eyesore as the machines also offer a universal language and communication option. The Kannon Museum beside the main hall is a separate 500 yen for adults if you want the artifacts after the statue.
Once inside the temple you’ll be greeted by some stunning ponds and arrays of pathways. Hase-dera has a collection of spots to check out and you’re free to wander at will. As always, I urge you to check things out at your own pace as the temple meanders through the hillsides and the stairs may take the wind out of your sails! The grounds climb from the lower ponds past Jizo-do to the Kannon-do terrace on the hillside.
The Caves at Hase-dera
If you’ve been following this site, you have come to see that I have a spirited affinity for finding places dedicated to Benzaiten, the goddess of everything that flows (water, time, words, speech, eloquence, music and by extension, knowledge). The Shonan area of Kamakura and Enoshima have a special relationship with the goddess and there are a lot of sites bearing her name. As such, I was not the least surprised when I came upon another sacred site dedicated to Benzaiten at Hase-dera.
As with Enoshima’s legendary caves, Hase-dera’s dedication to the goddess can be found carved into the mountain. Known as Benten-kutsu, the caves sit on the northernmost side of the temple grounds, just beyond Benten-do, the small hall dedicated to Benzaiten. The official account ties the cave to Kobo Daishi’s seclusion practice, and the last chamber is where visitors leave a small Hono Benzaiten statue with a written wish.
After passing through the torii gates that mark the entry to the caves, visitors will be greeted by eerily spiritual carvings of Benzaiten and sixteen children. According to legend, these caves were carved by the founders of the Hase-dera many years ago. Be warned however, especially for the tall explorers out there, the ceiling can get REALLY low at points meaning that you might have to drop to your hands and knees if you’re not flexible.
Praying for the Lost
Halfway up the stairs towards the main hall you’ll find a spot known as Jizo-do Hall. This sacred area is dedicated to Jizo, the patron protector of children. It is estimated that over 50,000 Jizo statues have been donated to Hase-dera since the end of World War II. Given reincarnation is a central tenet of Buddhism, parents who endure miscarriages, stillbirths, or abortions often donate a statue in the likeness of Jizo to ensure a safe passage to the next life for their unborn child. Each small statue remains in place for approximately one year. Together, the overwhelming number of statues create a memorable atmosphere of somberness and awe.
The Main Hall of Hase-dera
Continuing up the stairs, you will discover a terrace that is home to the main hall of Hase-dera. First up, on the far right of this stretch, you’ll find the Shoro Belfry. Tradition holds that this giant bell be rung 108 times on December 31 to dispel all 108 sufferings of humanity. If you happen to be visiting during New Year’s Eve, you must just be lucky enough to hear the bell being rung. Next to the belfry you will find the Kannon-do and Amida-do halls. The first of these halls houses the aforementioned 9.18 meter wooden statue of Kannon. One of the largest wooden Buddhist statues in Japan, the Hase-dera Kannon has an origin story the temple still tells in full.
The temple’s official site still tells the origin in full. In 721, the monk Tokudo Shonin is said to have found a camphor tree near Hase in Nara large enough for two eleven-headed Kannon images. The lower statue stayed at Nara’s Hase-dera; the upper, larger one was cast into the sea with a prayer that it would surface wherever people needed saving. Fifteen years later, on the night of June 18 in 736, that image washed ashore at Nagai Beach on the Miura Peninsula, sending out rays of light, and the Kamakura temple was built to house it.
Next to the Kannon-do there is also a museum dedicated to Kannon. The Kannon Museum exhibits materials related to the Goddess of Mercy as well as other Buddhist artifacts from the temple’s collection. To the right of the hall housing the Kannon, visitors will find a golden statue of Amida in Amida-do Hall. The temple ties this image to Minamoto no Yoritomo, the first Kamakura shogun, as a Yakuyoke Amida meant to ward off misfortune, and later tradition counts it among Kamakura’s six Amida images.
Other Nearby Attractions
Hase-dera also has several other cool spots to check out once you have cleared the Kannon terrace. Both the viewpoint and the walking path offer some stunning views of Sagami Bay from the hillside, looking down across Hase toward Yuigahama. If you’ve managed to work up an appetite there is actually a full service restaurant called Kaikoan that is host to a similarly beautiful view. Even if you only stop in for a cup of tea or coffee, I highly suggest popping in if only to take in the scenery. Kaikoan runs 10:00 to 16:00.
Last, but by no means least, there is a building called a Kyozo that is located outside the restaurant. Inside this wooden structure are rotating book racks that are known as Rinzo meaning a place where important Buddhist sutras for the temple are kept. The popular belief is that by turning the rinzo, you can earn the same merit as from reading all the sutras. Talk about saving time! From that terrace it is an easy walk back down through the same hillside to Hase Station, or onward to the beach if you still have legs after the stairs.
Until next time travelers…
