Unless you’ve been hiding under a rock lately, you’ve probably already heard that Japan has a bit of an overtourism problem. As you might imagine, the issue is especially prevalent in the big cities, with Kyoto in particular bearing much of the brunt of the demand. While the historical locations and traditions of Japan’s ancient capital are indeed alluring, the crowds make it unbearable, even for first-time visitors to Kyoto. If you want to escape the legions of mass tourism, you’re going to need to get off the beaten path, but luckily I have just the spot for you — Miyama and its beautiful Kayabuki-no-Sato.
To be frank with you, I see the bucolic sight of Miyama’s thatched roof houses pop up on Instagram every now and then. Alas, despite being located only around 90 minutes north of Kyoto City proper, I doubt many of the people who come across these posts put two and two together. This is a real shame, as Miyama’s Kayabuki-no-Sato is just the kind of easy-to-add-on hidden gem that I think more foreign visitors to Japan need to tack onto their itineraries.
While there are a great number of historic homes in Miyama with thatched roofs, the most well-known is a cluster of around 40 buildings that is known as the Kayabuki-no-Sato. Unlike many other locales of a similar style, these houses found up in this hilly hamlet are still very much residential dwellings where people live and work. Though this does afford Kayabuki-no-Sato a very nostalgic sense of life in rural Japan, it also means that only a few of the buildings are open to the public.
All in all, though, Miyama and the Kayabuki-no-Sato are a much-needed breath of fresh air for travelers who want to escape the crowds in Kyoto City. While you’ll need to budget at least half of a day for this side excursion, I am of the opinion that including a trip to somewhere like Miyama in greater Kyoto Prefecture adds a sense of authenticity that’s lacking elsewhere. Just note that while the locals very much do want international visitors, they only want people who will be respectful of their community to come.
How to Get There
If you want to see the thatched roof houses of the Kayabuki-no-Sato, you’re going to need to make a number of connections. For the purposes of this article, I am going to assume that you are starting somewhere in central Kyoto, but if you’re coming from somewhere else, you’ll first need to make your way to Kyoto Station. The first leg of the journey requires that you take the JR Sagano Line all the way to JR Sonobe Station. From there, you’ll need to transfer to a train to Hiyoshi Station.
Once you arrive at Hiyoshi Station, you’ll then need to wait for the next Nantan Bus departure. If I remember correctly, these should reach Miyama from Hiyoshi Station in around 40–50 minutes or so, meaning that you still have a good ways to go after getting off the train. In total, the trip to the Kayabuki-no-Sato should take you a little less than three hours or so. As always, though, refer to a service like Jorudan for the train departures and then use Google Maps for the bus schedules.
If you have your own set of wheels, know that getting to and around Miyama becomes a lot easier. That said, I suggest you put off renting a car until you’re outside of the city center, as the roads in downtown Kyoto are extremely congested these days. Thus, you might do well to first visit Arashiyama and Kameoka and then snag your rental car while over there. In any case, the entire drive to the Kayabuki-no-Sato should only take 90 minutes if you don’t encounter any traffic.
Finally, know that the worst day of the week to visit Miyama’s thatched village is Wednesday. The reason for this is that most of the businesses and other points of attraction are closed for the day. While it is still quite charming to just stroll around the Kayabuki-no-Sato without going in anywhere, there was only one place open that served meals when I was there on a Wednesday. If you’d prefer to relax in a cafe or something while there, be sure to pick another day of the week!
Miyama’s Thatched Village
First things first, know that the main reason to visit the Kayabuki-no-Sato is simply to enjoy its countryside vibe. As alluded to before, these buildings are mainly still domiciles that the locals reside in. While they may be historic, they are, with only a few exceptions, not really on exhibit for travelers as tourist attractions per se. While there is a cafe or two to enjoy in this part of Miyama, it’s largely the picturesque aesthetic that is the draw.
The townscape of Miyama’s Kayabuki-no-Sato is located on a hilly slope. While this means that the various levels of the village are more visible from afar, it also means you’ll need to hoof it up some steep inclines. As you meander about, though, be sure to keep your eyes out for the following…
- The Miyama Folk Museum
Found at the upper areas of the village, the Miyama Folk Museum is one of the few buildings that you can actually enter. Inside, you’ll get to see what the houses in the Kayabuki-no-Sato look like. Additionally, the facility curates a collection of traditional tools so you can get a sense of what life would have been like in the days of yesteryear in Miyama’s thatched village. - The Indigo Musem
Situated not too far away from the Miyama Folk Museum, this little indigo museum is also located in the deeper porions of the village. The property is both part indigo dyeing studio and part indigo museum and is still very much a functional workshop for the acclaimed craftsman Shindo Hiroyuki. If you like indigo, you absolutely ought to pop in for a quick visit. - Chii Hachiman Shrine
This small shrine sits on the outside of the town in the woods of Miyama. Despite its small stature, Chii Hachiman Shrine has a long legacy that dates back around a millennium to the year 1071. It’s dedicated to the war god Hachiman and is designated as a Kyoto Prefectural Cultural Property.
Finally, know that there are a few options for minshuku accommodations in the Kayabuki-no-Sato. If you really want to get the most out of this village, you should do yourself a favor and spend the night in one of these historic homes. Honestly, though I only had enough time for a day trip, I plan to go back and stay overnight sometime in the autumn or winter. Despite having a few hours in Miyama, I just don’t feel like it was enough time in the village to really enjoy it to its utmost.
Take a Thatched Village Guided Walk
Before looking at some of the other things that one might do in Miyama, let me make a quick public service announcement. Simply put, your appreciation of the Kayabuki-no-Sato will be much better if you can arrange to take a tour with a local English-speaking guide. For groups of fewer than five people, these will set you back a hefty 11,000 yen per group, but the cost is more than worth it as you’ll get to learn all about the secrets of this charming and historic town in rural Kyoto Prefecture.
Should this be something that piques your interest, you can learn more about these guided tours on Miyama’s official website. Note that they are closed Mondays and Wednesdays (like the rest of Miyama), so plan accordingly. Moreover, since you need to make a reservation three days prior to the tour date, you’ll want to double-check bus schedules too to ensure you don’t end up having to pay a no-show cancellation fee.
Beyond Thatched Roof Houses
If you’re into outdoor activities or want to explore some of the smaller thatched roof villages and buildings in Miyama (such the 350-year-old Ishida Farm House), know that there is a lot more to the region than just the Kayabuki-no-Sato. Unfortunately, my trip was something that I tacked on to a gig I had with the Fukuda Art Museum over in Arashiyama, so I didn’t really have too much time to enjoy much beyond the village itself. That said, the internet seems to say that Miyama has great options for ayu sweetfish fishing and hiking along the Yura River.
For more adventurous souls, consider diving deeper into the Ashiu Forest that sits on Miyama’s eastern border. This ancient wood is thickly populated with deer, monkeys and, scarily, bears. According to what I’ve read online, it boasts the largest plant diversity in all of Japan and is managed by Kyoto University. Though this means that you will need a permit to enter, the Ashiu Forest is best explored by joining one of the guided tours that are offered at Shizen Bunkamura Kajikaso.
Additionally, if you happen to be visiting in late January or early February, you’ll be able to enjoy the Snow Lantern Festival. Every year, the local residents of Miyama’s thatched village hand-make snow lanterns and light them with electric bulbs. When combined with the scenery of the Kayabuki-no-Sato, this creates a snowy and nostalgic scene. What’s more, between January 31st and February 3rd, you can also enjoy fireworks at night from 6:30 PM.
Other Nearby Attractions
If you’re going to come this deep into Kyoto to see Miyama, you might consider continuing to head further into the prefecture to check out places like Fukuchiyama Castle. Pictured above, the grounds of this former medieval stronghold are especially enchanting during the springtime and make for yet another alternative to the hordes back at Kiyomizu-dera and Kinkaku-ji. While not one of the dozen originals, the structure is considered to be one of the Continued 100 Fine Castles of Japan.
Of course, you can also continue all the way up to Amanohashidate and Ine and explore the so-called “Kyoto by the Sea” area. While I would suggest you figure out how to hop on one of the Hashidate limited express trains, a half-day stop in Miyama actually works out to combine quite well with an outing to this part of the country. Just be sure to look up your departures in advance, as the trains in the countryside don’t come as often as they do elsewhere.
Until next time travelers…
