When most people think of Hiroshima, they conjure up images of the Atomic Bomb Dome or the iconic “floating” torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine. Alas, there is so much more to the prefecture than just these mainstays. In fact, unbeknownst to many international visitors to Japan, the majority of it is actually quite mountainous. And nestled within the great outdoors of northern Hiroshima Prefecture are a ton of hidden gems. In today’s article, we’ll be taking a look at just one of these off-the-beaten-path allures: the city of Miyoshi.
Now, for those of you who have never heard of Miyoshi before, know that you’re not alone as this spot rarely pops up on radars of international tourists. Essentially, it’s the final bastion of urban civilization in northern Hiroshima before the landscape fades into the incredibly mountainous core of western Honshu. Though you’ll find some pockets of people living here and there to the north of Miyoshi, it’s essentially the last valley capable of housing a reasonably sized city in the area before you reach the Sea of Japan side of the country.
Historically speaking, Miyoshi was an important strategic hub thanks to its location along an old shipping route that connected the Iwami Ginzan silver mines with the Seto Inland Sea. Back in the day, this made the area a key point for transporting precious cargo, and because of this, Miyoshi developed into a bit of a castle town, complete with the accompanying merchants and samurai you’d expect from a feudal-era waypoint. Though little of the original fortifications remain today, the city’s historical role as a crossroads between the San’in and San’yo regions continues to shape its identity.
Originally established with the creation of the modern municipalities system during the Meiji period (1868–1912), the current iteration of Miyoshi City is actually the result of a major merger from 2004. The amalgamation brought together several smaller towns in the area, such as Kisa and Mirasaka, to form the present-day city of Miyoshi. All throughout the region, though, you’ll still find traces of the former place names. Station names, for example, continue to reference the many smaller municipalities that were all smooshed together to create the Miyoshi of today.
While even the post-2004 Miyoshi is a comparatively smaller city, there are still plenty of things for tourists to explore in this part of Hiroshima Prefecture. From the natural beauty of majestic mountains and clear-flowing rivers to a museum dedicated to yokai from Japanese folklore, there’s a surprising number of spots to enjoy during your trip to Miyoshi. What’s more, it’s even possible to visit as a day trip from Hiroshima City by train (though some facilities are only accessible if you have a car). If you have the time, definitely add the city of Miyoshi to your travel itinerary!
How to Get There
Let’s take a quick breather before diving into what to do in Miyoshi to work through the logistics of getting there in the first place. For those of you following along at home, you’ll recall that the city of Miyoshi is located along the northern border of Hiroshima Prefecture. Surprisingly though, despite being tucked away in the middle of the mountains, it’s actually rather easy to get to Miyoshi via public transportation. If you’re coming from downtown Hiroshima City, all you need to do is take the Geibi Line from Hiroshima Station to Miyoshi Station.
Another way to reach Miyoshi is by taking the Fukuen Line up from Fukuyama Station. This lazy ride will carry you through the bucolic parts of eastern Hiroshima Prefecture as it winds its way up to Miyoshi Station. In either case, though, I’d strongly recommend checking train departure times and planning when you need to board well in advance, as departures are comically infrequent. Thankfully, doing this is simple thanks to the ever-helpful Jorudan or any one of the other free tools out there that make calculating connections a breeze.
The Miyoshi Mononoke Museum
One of the more curious attractions in Miyoshi is the Miyoshi Mononoke Museum, or as it’s officially known, the Yumoto Koichi Memorial Japan Yokai Museum. As the name suggests, this unique spot is dedicated to yokai — those supernatural critters from Japanese folklore that are equal parts creepy and charming. Inside, you’ll find thousands of yokai-related items, ranging from old scrolls and woodblock prints to modern interpretations and art. It’s a compact but fascinating collection that really gives you a sense of just how deeply these beings are woven into the culture.
Now, I bet many of you who love yokai are wondering why a museum like this is located all the way out in Miyoshi. Well, as it turns out, the region has long-standing ties to yokai folktales. Most notably, it’s the setting for a famous story called Ino Mononoke Roku, which features a whole cast of supernatural creatures said to haunt the area. Combine that local folklore with the life’s work of yokai researcher Yumoto Koichi, and it makes perfect sense why this particular city in the boonies of Hiroshima Prefecture became home to Japan’s first public museum focused on yokai.
Getting there is simple enough once you’re actually in Miyoshi, as the museum is situated in a historic part of town about a 15-minute walk from Miyoshi Station. It’s a leisurely stroll (at least if you’re not visiting on a hot day during one of Japan’s humid summers), and you’ll catch little nods to yokai lore along the way if you’re paying attention. What’s more, the neighborhood itself is also worth exploring, so don’t be afraid to wander a bit before or after your visit. For the history nerds out there, this part of Miyoshi used to be where the castle town stood, and you can feel the legacy in the air.
For what it’s worth, admission to the Miyoshi Mononoke Museum is pretty reasonable, with tickets for adults costing 600 yen at the time of writing. Children and seniors get in for less, and there’s enough English signage to make the experience enjoyable even if you don’t speak Japanese. There’s also an interactive yokai space produced by TeamLab, as well as a small shop near the entrance where you can pick up yokai-themed goods, so be sure to swing by before heading out.
Miyoshi’s “Sea of Clouds”
One of the most unexpected natural spectacles in Miyoshi is the stunning “sea of clouds,” or unkai as it’s called in Japanese. This dreamy phenomenon typically occurs in the cooler months, usually from late autumn through early spring, when layers of mist and fog settle into the Miyoshi Valley in the early morning hours. The combination creates a surreal, ocean-like blanket of clouds that drifts over the valley, with only the surrounding mountain peaks poking through like islands in the sky. If you’re lucky enough to catch it, it’s a view that’s hard to forget.
What makes Miyoshi particularly well suited for this kind of atmospheric display is its geography. The small city sits in a natural basin where multiple rivers converge, and when this is combined with crisp morning air and calm conditions, it creates the perfect environment for fog to form. Locals have long appreciated this phenomenon, and over time it has become something of a seasonal highlight for those in the know. It’s not the kind of thing you’d expect from a quiet inland city in Hiroshima, but that’s part of what makes it so memorable.
The best place to see the sea of clouds is from the highlands around Mt. Takatani to the west of Miyoshi City or from other elevated viewpoints in the early morning. You’ll want to arrive while it’s still dark to catch the clouds before the rising sun starts to burn them off. Sadly, though, there’s no guarantee you’ll see it every time, since weather conditions need to be just right, but chilly mornings after a rainy day tend to give you the best chance. While it’s a spectacle that can be a bit of a dice roll at times, the views are more than worth it should lady luck be on your side.
So, if you’re the type who enjoys chasing rare views and doesn’t mind getting up in the middle of the night to do so, this is one experience in Miyoshi that’s worth waking up early for. Just be sure to dress warmly, especially in the colder months, and check the weather forecast before heading out. There aren’t many tourist facilities at the lookout points, so bring anything you might need ahead of time. And yes, you’ll definitely want to have your camera ready.
Higanbana in Hiroshima Prefecture
If any of you are wondering what brought me to Miyoshi in the first place, know that it was my hunt for higanbana (or red spider lilies in English) that first put this place on the map for me. As anyone who follows me on social media likely already knows, I am absolutely obsessed with the ethereal beauty of these early fall flowers. Considered to be the herald of the autumn months to come, higanbana are actually highly poisonous. Because of this, they are often viewed as the “flowers of hell” in Buddhist lore and are said to guide wayward souls on to their next lives.
There are a number of spots to see the higanbana in Miyoshi. Unlike the sea of red that can be seen at Kinchakuda Manjushage Park in Saitama, though, Miyoshi’s higanbana are spread out in multiple clusters all over the city. What’s more, some of these locations also require a rental car to get to unless you’re some sort of Olympic cyclist or something. To make finding the sites with higanbana easier, I’ve compiled a list below with a short blurb about what to expect there.
- Tsuji’s Higanbana-no-Sato
In a part of Miyoshi known as Tsuji, you’ll find a place called Higanbana-no-Sato. Entirely free to enter, this space has many patches of red spider lilies and is set in the middle of a lush forest. Though not as expansive as Kinchakuda Manjushage Park, this is still one of the best sites in all of Japan to see higanbana. - Along the Basengawa Riverbanks
Over in a part of Miyoshi known as Mirasaka, this lengthy stretch of higanbana pops up along the riverbanks of the Basengawa (which is also good for cherry blossoms too, by the way). Thankfully, it’s just a few minutes from Mirasaka Station on the Fukuen Line. Just don’t miss the next train, as they only come every two hours or so. - Lycoris-no-Sato in Central Miyoshi
Only a few minutes’ walk from the Miyoshi Mononoke Museum is Lycoris-no-Sato. For those of you who don’t know, Lycoris is the scientific name for the red spider lily, and this strip of them is quite beautiful, especially with the backdrop of the nearby river and hills.
Of the sites listed above, Tsuji’s Higanbana-no-Sato (pictured above) is by far the best. Sadly, it is also the most difficult to get to. Though the other two locations can be reached via public transportation and a bit of good old-fashioned hoofing it, you’ll really need a rental car to reach Miyoshi’s top spot for higanbana.
Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery
Another surprising find in this rural part of the prefecture is the Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery. Located just a short drive from the city center, this spot has become a local favorite for its laid-back atmosphere and tasty selection of regional wines. While Japan might not be the first place that comes to mind when you think of wine, the climate and terrain around Miyoshi actually make it an ideal place for grape cultivation. While in the region, why not swing by for a tasting, stroll through the surrounding vineyards, or just enjoy a relaxing afternoon in wine country — all without ever leaving Hiroshima Prefecture.
From what I’ve read online, the winery was established to help promote local agriculture and take advantage of the area’s long-standing grape-growing tradition. In fact, Miyoshi has been producing table grapes for decades, particularly the big, juicy Pione variety. Turning that into wine was a natural next step, and today, the Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery produces a variety of reds, whites, and even some sweet wines and grape juices. It’s a great way to get a literal taste of the region while supporting local farmers at the same time.
Getting to Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery is a lot easier if you have access to a rental car, as it’s located a bit outside of the main part of the city. That said, it’s not impossible to reach by public transportation, and you can always just bite the bullet and take a taxi. Alternatively, if you’re feeling adventurous and the weather is cooperating, you could even rent a bike. The facility is family-friendly too, so even if you’re not into wine, there’s still plenty to enjoy, including seasonal events and a shop stocked with local goods. However you get there, though, just don’t drink and drive please.
Admission to the winery is free, and tastings are available at a small additional cost. The on-site shop also sells bottles you can take back, along with other regional products and snacks. Be sure to check the opening hours in advance, as they can vary depending on the season or local events. If you’re looking to experience a different side of Hiroshima, Hiroshima Miyoshi Winery offers a refreshing break from temples and history museums.
Other Nearby Attractions
Seeing as you’ll need to come back down from Miyoshi (unless you continue north into Shimane Prefecture toward the Sea of Japan), there are tons of add-ons you can tack onto your itinerary, such as the Sera Kogen flower fields seen above. When I stayed in Miyoshi, I made a concerted effort to eke out as much as I could from my time there, but here are a few additional attractions that I’d suggest checking out while exploring this rural neck of the proverbial woods.
- Miyoshi Fudoki-no-Oka History & Folklore Museum
If you’re a fan of history or archaeology, the Miyoshi Fudoki-no-Oka History & Folklore Museum is well worth a stop. The facility sits atop a hill surrounded by ancient burial mounds, giving you a real sense of connection to Japan’s distant past. Inside, you’ll find a collection of local artifacts, folk tools, and exhibits that showcase daily life in the olden days of the Chugoku region. The open-air section, with its reconstructed pit dwellings and rural domiciles, helps bring the area’s ancient stories to life. - Okuda Genso Sayume Art Museum
Located on the outskirts of Miyoshi, this modern yet elegant art museum is dedicated to Okuda Genso, a painter celebrated for his stunning depictions of Japan’s natural beauty. The works on display capture delicate landscapes and seasonal transitions in a way that feels both traditional and timeless. The museum also features the work of his wife, Sayume, whose creations add a softer, more personal contrast to Genso’s bold style. Even if you’re not an art buff, the building’s serene architecture and quiet surroundings make it a lovely spot to unwind for an hour or two. - The City of Shobara
While not technically in Miyoshi itself, just a short drive to the east lies the city of Shobara, another hidden gem tucked away in the mountains of northern Hiroshima Prefecture. Shobara is known for its lush natural scenery, hot springs, and the picturesque Taishaku Gorge, where dramatic cliffs and turquoise waters create postcard-perfect views. The area is also a great place for outdoor activities like hiking or boating, especially in the warmer months. It’s a natural extension to a Miyoshi trip and a great way to experience even more of rural Hiroshima’s charm.
Finally, if you have a rental car and want to have some of the best okonomiyaki of your life, you’ll want to swing by this local joint. Easily mistaken for a place that’s closed, this family-owned restaurant has been around for three generations and is now run by the granddaughter of the original founder. It originally opened out of love for the local kids at the nearby school, and over the years it has grown into something of a local legend. The recipes and food here haven’t changed in over 60 years, so if you can, make time to stop by for lunch or dinner and taste a piece of living history.
Until next time travelers…
