Unless you’ve been living under a rock, you probably know by now that the vaunted Japan Rail Pass, which provides unlimited rides on all JR trains, saw a significant price increase in 2023. What’s more, many of the regional offerings from JR’s various branches also saw price hikes, though not to the same extent. As a result, it’s no longer so obvious whether these passes are as good a deal as they used to be. Before the hikes, it was a no-brainer to snag the Japan Rail Pass, as the total cost was just about the same as buying round-trip tickets from Tokyo to Kyoto. Now, it’s not as clear whether it will actually save you money.
Recently, I took the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) for a bit of a test drive. My goal was, first and foremost, to highlight some of the regional alternatives that JR offers as opposed to the countrywide Japan Rail Pass, while also showcasing how to maximize value from these now pricier options. While I still think that many of the various passes can be a good deal, you need to go in with your eyes wide open and make a concerted effort to ride as many bullet trains as is reasonable for your trip. Otherwise, it’s generally more affordable to pay for your transportation the regular way.
The following article is a summary of my five-day adventure using the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) in early December 2024. Though I can’t recommend the pass to every traveler, it’s a fantastic deal for anyone looking to dive deep into either of these prefectures. What’s more, the pass is also valid on all JR trains in greater Tokyo, meaning you can use it to explore spots like Yokohama, Kamakura, and beyond. In my case, I opted to head out to western Tokyo to catch the last traces of autumn in Okutama and on Mt. Mitake. Of course, you can create your own itinerary when using the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area).
For what it’s worth, making bullet train reservations with the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) is quite straightforward. You can either insert the pass into one of the Shinkansen ticket machines and select your seats yourself, or you can visit one of JR’s travel service centers and have the helpful staff make the reservations for you. If you need to book several seats at once, the latter option is usually far less of a hassle than trying to do it all on your own at a kiosk. Note that you can also opt to use the Jiyuseki (non-reserved seating) if you’d prefer the flexibility.
By the way, I’ve included a TL;DR overview at the very end if you just want to check out my itinerary. To view it, scroll past the day-by-day sections detailing what I did each day with the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) and head to the article’s final section.
Day One: Western Tokyo
When I got my hands on the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) from JR East, one of the things they mentioned was that the pass could be used in Greater Tokyo. Since I needed to create a few Instagram Reels in exchange for receiving the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area), I decided to first chase the last traces of autumn in western Tokyo to highlight the ticket’s versatility. Unbeknownst to many overseas visitors, the western extremes of the Tokyo metropolitan area are home to lush natural environments and stunning mountains. These often-overlooked parts of Tokyo become absolutely breathtaking when the fall foliage peaks in November and December.
To start my journey, I took a normal train out to Mitake Station. This required departing early in the morning on a Chuo Line train from Shinjuku Station and then transferring to the Ome Line at Ome Station. While not as thrilling as hopping on a bullet train (don’t worry, we’ll get to that…), this trip takes you from the chaotic urban core of Tokyo to the serene rural areas in the prefecture’s western reaches. A stark contrast to the bustling streets of Shinjuku and Shibuya, this part of Tokyo is like a breath of fresh air.
My first stop in rural Tokyo was the sacred Mt. Mitake. Since I’ve written extensively about Mt. Mitake before, I won’t delve too deeply here, but it’s worth noting that this revered peak is part of Chichibu Tama Kai National Park and is home to the spectacular Musashi Mitake Shrine. Allegedly founded over 2,000 years ago, this Shinto sanctuary has long been a significant pilgrimage site. Thankfully, you don’t have to hike the mountain yourself anymore — there’s a cable car to assist with the ascent — but there are still some steep paths to navigate once you’re near the summit.
Given that I wanted to maximize my time with the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area), I didn’t linger too long on Mt. Mitake. After visiting Musashi Mitake Shrine to pay my respects and capture some video footage, I hurried back down the mountain to catch the next bus to Mitake Station. From there, I made my way to Okutama Station, the terminal point of the Ome Line, to see a bit of Okutama. Although it was already late in the day, I managed to catch golden hour and snag some fantastic clips for my JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) Reels.
If you’re planning your own adventure with the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area), I’d recommend picking either Mt. Mitake or Okutama to explore in depth. Both destinations offer far more than I had time to see, but since I was focused on creating content for Instagram, I had to be more aggressive with my itinerary than I’d normally be. If you’re determined to fit both into a single day, I strongly suggest starting very early to allow ample time for exploration in western Tokyo.
Once I wrapped up my time in western Tokyo, I made my way back to Tokyo Station and hopped on a bullet train to Takasaki Station. If I hadn’t had the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area), I likely would have called it a day and returned home to rest before venturing out the following morning. However, with unlimited train rides at my disposal, I decided to get closer to my next day’s starting point and unwind at the local Dormy Inn, complete with a sauna and cold plunge. Being able to make these kinds of spontaneous plans is one of the biggest perks of having a pass like the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area).
Day Two: Togakushi & Zenko-ji
The main reason I chose to stay in Takasaki was to position myself for a trip to Nagano on the second day of my five-day JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) adventure. En route, however, I made a quick pit stop at Karuizawa to showcase how easily you can hop on and off the Shinkansen with the pass. Known for its numerous outlet stores, this shopping hotspot is a great addition to any itinerary for those using the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) to explore Nagano Prefecture. The shops are only a few minutes from the station, making it easy to hop off for just an hour or so before continuing your journey.
My first destination of the day after arriving at Nagano Station was the snowy Togakushi Shrine. Located high in the mountains, this syncretic shrine is a must-see for anyone visiting this part of Nagano. While you’ll need to take a bus to get there (which isn’t covered by the JR East Pass), Togakushi Shrine is well worth the extra few yen for the ride. The bus journey, which takes around 50 minutes, winds through a series of twists and turns as it climbs the mountain, offering scenic views along the way. Alas, fully covering it in this article would add needless volume so I’ll direct you to my piece on Nagano City for more information.
After walking among the snow-covered cedars of Togakushi Shrine’s innermost areas, I caught a bus back to Nagano’s city center. Since I had extra time in the day — thanks to overnighting in Takasaki — I made a stop at Zenko-ji to capture footage for the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) promotional content I was creating. This 1,400-year-old temple is one of Nagano’s iconic highlights and an absolute must-visit if you’re in the area. Its historical significance and serene beauty draw millions of visitors annually, and for good reason. Zenko-ji is home to one of the first Buddhist statues ever brought to Japan, though the original artifact remains hidden from public view. Instead, a replica is displayed during a special ceremony held every seven years, adding an air of mystery and reverence to the temple.
One of Zenko-ji’s most unique features is its underground passageway, a pitch-black corridor known as the Okaidan. Visitors navigate this dark tunnel by touch as they search for the “Key to Paradise,” a symbolic metal key embedded in the wall. Touching the key is believed to grant enlightenment and a connection to the Buddha. Walking through the complete darkness of the Okaidan is both disorienting and profound, offering a rare moment of introspection as you feel your way toward the light. With its sprawling grounds, impressive main hall, and this deeply spiritual journey into darkness, Zenko-ji is far more than just a beautiful historical site — it’s an unforgettable experience that stays with you long after you leave.
As the sun began to set, I made my way back toward Nagano Station on foot. Though I could have opted for the more convenient bus, I chose to walk so I could stop by a shop that roasts Nagano’s delicious oyaki over an open irori hearth. Located along the approach to Zenko-ji’s main gate, this spot — as well as Yawataya Isogoro Honten for its famous shichimi spice — are two stores I always make time for when I’m in Nagano.
Day Three: Snow Monkeys
After spending the night in Nagano and indulging in my fill of delicious basashi, I got up early and headed over to the famed Snow Monkey Park to see the, well… snow monkeys! While this spot is undeniably suffering from overtourism, I felt compelled to capture a clip of these adorable critters bathing in their hot spring for my video. Braving the chaotic crowds, I managed to slip into position for the perfect shot. However, as someone who is quite averse to throngs of people, I promptly made my exit from Snow Monkey Park before the experience could sap my sanity.
With plenty of the day still ahead, I decided to eschew the bus back to Nagano City and instead took a leisurely stroll through the two charming hot spring towns near Snow Monkey Park. Known as Shibu Onsen and Yudanaka Onsen, this neighboring pair boasts historic ryokan and makes for a great place to stay if you want to get an early start on visiting the park. Of the two, I’m particularly partial to Shibu Onsen. It retains a more traditional atmosphere, feeling less modernized, and offers a unique nine-bath pilgrimage that visitors can embark on when staying overnight — a delightful experience for hot spring enthusiasts.
After exploring the two hot spring towns, I hopped on the hour-long train ride back to Nagano Station. This leg of my journey wasn’t covered by the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area), as the train line is operated by the Nagano Electric Railway. Similarly, the bus I took to Snow Monkey Park earlier that morning required a separate fare. That said, considering how much you can save with the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) overall, these minor additional costs shouldn’t put too much of a dent in your budget.
Truth be told, since I had the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) and could ride as many Shinkansen as I wanted, I actually decided to head back to Tokyo on the third night to save on hotel costs. Having completed everything I needed to in Nagano, I knew my next destination would be Niigata. The quickest way to get there involved returning to Takasaki Station first. Since Takasaki was already more than halfway back to Tokyo, I decided to take full advantage of the pass’s flexibility and head home for the night instead.
Day Four: Tsubame-Sanjo
I began the fourth day of my JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) journey with a visit to the Tsubame Industrial Museum. Located about a 30-minute walk from Tsubame-Sanjo Station, this facility showcases the various types of local craftsmanship that have been passed down in the area without interruption since the Edo period (1603–1868). If you’re interested in learning about the amazing goods made in this part of Niigata, this museum is definitely worth your time. The exhibits provide a fascinating primer on the region’s artisanal heritage, from metalworking to lacquerware.
After spending about an hour touring the Tsubame Industrial Museum, I made my way to the nearest local JR train station and caught the next departure for Yahiko Station. My destination was the venerable Yahiko Shrine, located nearby in Tsubame-Sanjo. I’ve written about this ancient site before, so I won’t delve too deeply here, but suffice it to say, it’s one of my all-time favorites. Especially during autumn, Yahiko Shrine is breathtakingly beautiful. If your travels ever bring you to this part of Japan, you’d be remiss to skip it.
Niigata can get pretty cold in the early evening, and this is even more true for a place like Yahiko, which sits in the shadow of Mt. Yahiko. So, rather than freeze, I decided to head over to Niigata City. There, I had a few must-dos to cross off for my JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) adventure. First on the list was a visit to Ponshukan to sample some of the region’s renowned sake. For just 500 yen, you’re handed five coins and a small sake cup, called a choko. With these, you can choose from a vast selection of local Niigata sake, making it a fantastic and affordable way to experience the flavors of the prefecture.
Slightly tipsy, I made my way to another section of Ponshukan to try the famed Bakudan Onigiri (lit. “Bomb Rice Balls”). True to their name, these massive rice spheres are a meal in themselves and are one of the must-eat items in Niigata City. Not only are they incredibly filling, but they’re also delicious, showcasing Niigata’s top-tier rice. I opted for a ground tuna filling topped with a raw egg yolk, but there’s an array of toppings to choose from, ensuring there’s something to suit every taste.
Day Five: Niigata & Yuzawa
The last spot I needed to film in Niigata City for my JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) adventure was Pier Bandai. Located on the coastal side of the city, this lively collection of shops and eateries is a paradise for food lovers. It’s particularly famous for its fresh seafood, with a market offering everything from sashimi-grade fish to crab and oysters straight from the Sea of Japan. In addition to the seafood, you’ll find locally grown produce, regional specialties, and small restaurants serving up everything from grilled skewers to hearty bowls of ramen. Pier Bandai perfectly captures the essence of Niigata’s culinary prowess, making it a must-visit for anyone spending time in the city.
With Pier Bandai done, I made my way back to Niigata Station and used my JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) to hop on yet another Shinkansen. This time, I traveled halfway back to Tokyo and got off at Echigo-Yuzawa Station. While I didn’t have enough hours left to truly do the Snow Country region justice, I did manage to visit the Yuzawa Museum of History and Folklore. This facility does a fantastic job of showcasing the region’s rich cultural legacy beyond its reputation as a popular ski destination.
Unfortunately, an agency I was partnering with for an upcoming gig forgot to inform me that I needed to be in Nara Prefecture the day before the FAM trip started. As a result, I had to cut my time in Niigata a bit short and head back to Tokyo to make the three-hour journey down to Nara. Before taking my final train on the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area), I made a quick stop at the other Ponshukan in Echigo-Yuzawa Station for one last Bakudan Onigiri and a bit more sake tasting.
JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) TL:DR
Since I know not everyone will want to read an account of all of the various things I did over the course of the five days that I had the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area), I figured that I’d put together the following summary of my itinerary by day. Hopefully, this gives those of you who don’t want to read the longer blog post some inspiration when planning your own trip on the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area)…
Day One
- Mt. Mitake
- Okutama
- Takasaki
Day Two
- Karuizawa
- Togakushi Shrine
- Zenko-ji
- Oyaki & Basashi
Day Three
- Snow Monkey Park
- Shibu & Yudanaka Onsen
Day Four
- Tsubame Industrial Museum
- Yahiko Shrine
- Ponshukan
Day Five
- Pier Bandai
- Yuzawa Museum of History and Folklore
- Echigo-Yuzawa Station
Before wrapping this up, allow me to sign off by saying that I truly only scratched the surface of what you can do with this pass. For instance, the area covered by the JR East Pass (Nagano, Niigata Area) actually extends all the way up to Sakata and Tsuruoka in Yamagata Prefecture where you’ll find the sacred Dewa Sanzan. Additionally, the pass includes access to Tobu Railway trains running to and from Shimo-Imaichi Station, Tobu-Nikko Station, and Kinugawa-Onsen Station. The possibilities are truly mind-boggling, so make sure to do your own research when planning your adventures with this incredibly versatile pass!
Until next time travelers…
