Welcome back to another installment of Japan area guides. As always, we’ll be diving deep so that you, the reader, can explore a region of rural Japan without worry. In today’s post, we’ll examine a slice of Japan known as Snow Country. Spread across a wide swath of mountainous terrain that spans Niigata, Nagano, and Gunma Prefectures, this area receives a shocking amount of snow each year. In fact, snow plays such a critical role in this part of Japan that the activities for the remainder of the year often center around preparing for winter.
Now, if you turn to Google to learn more about Snow Country, you’re bound to get a bit confused. Even the ever-reliable Wikipedia is plagued by what can only be described as an extremely vague entry. Indeed, after reviewing the literature, I still cannot make out exactly what constitutes Snow Country, as it seems there are competing definitions. For the purposes of this article, I’ll go with the Snow Country Tourist Association’s definition, which includes the six towns of Uonuma, Minami Uonuma, Yuzawa, Tokamachi, Tsunan, Minakami, and Sakae.
When it comes to the slopes of Yuzawa, Snow Country is internationally renowned as a getaway for skiers and snowboarders. In fact, the region’s famous GALA Yuzawa Snow Resort is the only one of its kind to have a bullet train stop built directly into the facility. As you might imagine, this ease of access draws a crowd. Since many tourists already flock to Snow Country for winter sports, I’ll opt to omit these attractions in the coming analysis. Instead, I’ll focus on the lesser-known aspects of Snow Country, such as the area’s rich cultural heritage.
Before we get into the details, I want to stress that Snow Country is by no means alluring only during winter. Though the name may be a bit misleading, Snow Country offers plenty all year round. For example, the mountainous town of Minakami is regularly hailed as Japan’s premier destination for adventure tourism. That said, if you have your heart set on seeing snow, rejoice in knowing that this area of Japan often remains snow-capped until late spring.
How to Get There
As mentioned earlier when referencing GALA Yuzawa Snow Resort, getting to Snow Country is straightforward. Simply take one of the Joetsu bullet trains from Tokyo Station to Echigo-Yuzawa Station. The entire journey takes just over an hour. Though there are regular departures, it would behoove you to check a service like the helpful Jorudan first. Unlike trains heading to Kyoto and Osaka, bullet train departures to this region aren’t as frequent. Even during the peak ski and snowboard season, you’ll be lucky to find three trains per hour.
Once you arrive at Echigo-Yuzawa Station, the logistics can get messy and challenging. Although Snow Country can be explored via public transportation, I recommend renting a car. Local trains are far too infrequent to rely on, and the buses are equally headache-inducing. To be honest, while I can read and write Japanese, even I would struggle to navigate this arcane system. Foreign tourists might find deciphering Egyptian hieroglyphics easier than understanding the bus schedules.
If you’re like me and cannot drive, you’ll likely want to limit your exploration of Snow Country to Yuzawa. While many of the area’s towns have poor public access, several points of interest in Yuzawa are within walking distance of Echigo-Yuzawa Station. During my visit, I had the luxury of being driven around by a representative from the Snow Country Tourist Association. Unless you’re lucky enough to have a friend willing to drive, stick to exploring Yuzawa. There’s enough to do here to justify an overnight trip.
What to See in Snow Country
I’m going to come right out and say that Snow Country is absolutely massive, with each of the towns having enough content to feature its own piece. Unless you dedicate a solid week or more to just this location in Japan, you will not be able to see all that awaits. Truth be told, I’ve only done a fraction of what I’ll detail in a second, so be sure to take my recommendations with a grain of salt and do your own research. In the subsequent paragraphs, I’ll try to quickly introduce each of the six towns in Snow Country and offer a few suggestions on what you might want to check out.
To kick things off, let’s begin with the centrally located town of Yuzawa. Technically, Minakami is the first borough that you’ll encounter en route to Snow Country from Tokyo. I have previously published a guide for Minakami, so rather than waste more ink reinventing the wheel, you can reference my work here. Moreover, the Echigo-Yuzawa Station is somewhat of a hub for the area in that it acts as the entry point to Snow Country. Due to its extremely convenient location and connections, you’ll want to begin your journey in Yuzawa and then branch out from there into the more remote regions of Snow Country.
So, what’s on offer in Yuzawa? Well, for starters, know that the Echigo-Yuzawa Station is a bit of an attraction unto itself. Inside the behemoth facility, you’ll find the Ponshukan. This cramped hall is actually something of a museum (or at least that’s how it gets rendered in English) for all the various types of sake produced in the area. For just a few hundred yen, you’ll receive a handful of coins that can be exchanged at any of Ponshukan’s countless machines for a sample of sake. With so many different alcoholic concoctions to try, this activity is probably one you’ll want to save for the end of the day.
On the cultural side of things, there are a few other spots in Yuzawa that I’d urge you to check out. The first of these is the Yuzawa Museum of History and Folklore. Here, you can learn all about how the locals of this part of Japan historically survived the harsh winters that torment Snow Country. Situated just a few minutes away from Echigo-Yuzawa Station, this one is a must-see. In addition to the Yuzawa Museum of History and Folklore, I also suggest you make a stop at Takahan. This ryokan has roots dating back over eight hundred years. Here, the acclaimed author Kawabata Yasunari penned what would later win him a Nobel Prize for Literature.
Next up, let’s move on to the towns of Uonuma and Minami Uonuma. When it comes to cultural attractions, these two municipalities really deliver. In fact, there’s so much to see in Uonuma and Minami Uonuma that the only way I can fit all of my recommendations is to opt for a list like the one that follows. Alas, public transportation is still severely lacking in this rural neck of the woods, meaning that some of these amazing locations will only be accessible to those with their own set of wheels. I’ll include a Google Map link to assist your navigation with Siri (or whatever the Android equivalent is).
- Saifuku-ji
Pictured above, this temple redefines the word “beautiful.” In all of my travels across Japan, I’ve never seen carvings as awe-inspiring as those at Saifuku-ji. The magnificent woodwork is the product of the master craftsman Ishikawa Uncho and was completed during the Edo period (1603–1868). Sadly, all photography is prohibited inside, so be sure to etch these images into your memory. Note that if you don’t have a rental car, Saifuku-ji can be reached on foot from Yairo Station in under thirty minutes. - Eirin-ji
While not quite as impressive as Saifuku-ji, this temple also boasts some truly amazing works by Ishikawa Uncho. Originally constructed over 500 years ago, this quaint countryside temple is definitely worth popping by if you have access to a rental car. Should you not, I’ll go out on a limb and suggest that you skip it. Given that you’d need to walk over 3 km from Echigo-Horino-Uchi Station, your time would be better spent just visiting Saifuku-ji since it’s the same craftsman. - Fuko-ji
This temple belongs to the Shingon sect of Buddhism and is said to be over 1,200 years old. Every year in early March, while the snow is still piled up shoulder-high, the temple holds one of the strangest gatherings in all of Japan. Known as the Hadaka Oshiai Festival (lit. “Naked Man Festival”), this annual event is one worth viewing. Oh, and don’t worry; there aren’t any actual manbits flying about — those are all well-covered by loincloths. Note that Fuko-ji is located only around 0.5 km from Urasa Station. - Bokushi Dori
Once part of the important Mikuni Kaido highway, Bokushi Dori is a street shaped by history. These days, you’ll find a number of shops and cafes that have taken up this critical artery. To pay homage to Bokushi Dori’s roots, the local authorities have mandated that all businesses along the street must have Edo period (1603–1868) facades. This feature provides the area with a unique historical theme. Much like Fuko-ji, Bokushi Dori is located quite close to the station and can be reached in minutes from Shiozawa Station.
Well, maybe now is a good time to get a cup of joe or something because we’re only getting started. Next up, I’d like to introduce the town of Tokamachi. Though located just to the west of Uonuma and Minami Uonuma, Tokamachi has gained a fair bit of notoriety thanks to the Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennial. Every three years, modern art legends from across the globe gather in this part of Japan for an exhibition of their artwork. The Echigo-Tsumari Art Triennial began back in 2000 and has been running strong ever since. Should you visit Japan during one of the years when the triennial is happening, you really ought to check it out. If not, much of the art is still on display during the off years too!
Of course, there’s a lot more to Tokamachi than just modern art. For example, Instagrammers will definitely want to head to the Light Cave at Kiyotsu Gorge (pictured above). Alternatively, hot spring enthusiasts should hit up Matsunoyama Onsen for a good soak. During my stint in Snow Country, I stayed at Hinanoyado Chitose and thoroughly enjoyed my time at this ryokan. More of a nature type? Why not check out the slender beech tree forest at Bijin Bayashi? Planted approximately a century ago, this virgin grove possesses a distinct look during each of the four seasons.
As if all this weren’t enough already, I have one final recommendation for the town of Tokamachi. Though it’s unfortunately covered by white blankets of snow during the wintertime, the Hoshitoge Rice Terraces are truly a sight to behold (or so I’ve heard). While I have yet to view them myself, I’ve read online in a friend’s article that the terraces look like they’ve been ripped from the pages of a fairytale during sunrise. If you happen to visit when they’re not buried under snow, be sure to snap me a pic as all I have to drool over is the stock photo above.
Situated to the southwest of Tokamachi, Tsunan has a domestic reputation for producing some killer rice, sake, and buckwheat. In terms of attractions, though, Tsunan is a little sparse. If you’re into archaeology, however, you must visit the Okinohara site. This archaeological park contains remnants of a middle Jomon period (2500–1500 BCE) settlement. While there are numerous dig sites across Japan, the park in Tsunan was designated as a National Historic Site of Japan. Note that many of the artifacts uncovered are stored at the Tsunan Municipal History Museum.
Rounding out the six towns of Snow Country, we have the village of Sakae. Located over in Nagano Prefecture, this is the only member of Snow Country besides Gunma’s Minakami that isn’t found in Niigata. While there are a few attractions in Sakae, such as the spectacular 360-degree panoramic view from Mt. Naeba, I’ll be frank and say that the other areas in Snow Country are more deserving of your time. Unless you just want to get away from it all and soak away your worries in one of Sakae’s many onsen, there are few reasons to choose this hamlet over someplace like Tokamachi.
Other Nearby Attractions
With so much to see and do in Snow Country alone, it would be silly for me to recommend additional nearby spots. Simply put, anywhere in this sector of the country is going to be pretty similar to Snow Country. Instead, I’ll opt to give you two options for the rest of your travels that synergize well with the logistics of Snow Country. This way, you can sample more of Japan.
- Niigata City
If you’re looking to experience urban life after your time in the mountains, consider a stop in Niigata City. As the capital of Niigata Prefecture, this port city is known for its fresh seafood, scenic waterfronts, and unique cultural experiences. Nearby, you’ll also find the lovely hot spring getaway of Tsukioka Onsen as well as you’ll see in the article linked above. - Yahiko Shrine
Nestled at the foot of Mt. Yahiko, this serene Shinto shrine is a perfect blend of nature and spirituality. Yahiko Shrine is not only a significant site of worship but also offers breathtaking views, especially if you take the nearby ropeway to the mountain’s summit. This area is particularly enchanting during the autumn foliage season, making it a great addition to any Snow Country itinerary. The shrine is easy to reach from Tsubame-Sanjo by train and a short bus ride. - Yamagata’s Shonai
Located up in Yamagata Prefecture, this secluded part of Japan is home to the Dewa Sanzan mountains and the Yamabushi who practice there. If you’d like to partake in their transformative training, hit up my good friends over at Yamabushido. Though I’ve said this countless times now on social media and on this blog, I cannot more highly recommend their service. Bar none, it was one of the most meaningful experiences of my entire life. - The City of Kanazawa
If you’re sporting one of the JR rail passes, making the trip from Snow Country to Kanazawa is actually pretty easy. All you’ll need to do is take the Joetsu bullet train down to Takasaki Station. From there, you can switch to the Hokuriku bullet train. Though the entire journey will clock in at over three hours, you’ll only be required to transfer once en route to Kanazawa. This makes it quite simple to reach what may be considered one of the most underrated locations in Japan.
Until next time travelers…
