By now, I think I’ve said this more times than I care to count, but there is simply so much more to Hiroshima Prefecture than most people realize. You see, far too many overseas visitors only ever stop by the Atomic Bomb Dome and the island of Miyajima. Alas, there is so much more to see and do in the greater prefecture. For example, the town of Saijo was somewhere I recently had the opportunity to explore, and it’s still largely unknown to people overseas. Located in the eastern part of Hiroshima Prefecture, Saijo is a place renowned across Japan for its high-quality sake.
Unlike many other areas famous for sake, Saijo got its start relatively late in the game. Due to its location higher up in the mountains than the rest of Hiroshima Prefecture, Saijo initially lacked the logistics needed to properly distribute the sake it produced to the rest of the country. Though situated on the highway connecting Kyushu and western Honshu with modern-day Tokyo, it wasn’t until the advent of early trains in the Meiji period (1868–1912) that Saijo began making its forays into sake production.
While comparatively late to the game in terms of mass distribution, Saijo is no slouch when it comes to sake making. The town’s emergence as a sake-brewing powerhouse began in the late 19th century. Unlike regions like Nada in Hyogo or Fushimi in Kyoto, which had already developed extensive networks for distributing their sake, Saijo faced unique challenges due to its mountainous location. However, the advent of railroads revolutionized logistics and allowed Saijo to transport its sake far and wide. With newfound access to markets across Japan, local brewers seized the opportunity to refine their craft and establish Saijo as a serious contender in the sake industry.
One of the pivotal innovations that set Saijo apart was its adoption of the ginjo-zukuri method. Pioneered by local brewers like Kamotsuru Sake Brewery’s legendary founder Shizuhiko Kimura, this technique was ideally suited to the area’s natural resources, particularly the soft, mineral-rich spring water found in this part of Hiroshima. Unlike the hard water used in areas like Nada, softer water required more precise temperature control but allowed for a more delicate, refined flavor profile in the final product. This innovation not only elevated the quality of Saijo’s sake but also garnered national recognition, helping to solidify Hiroshima as one of Japan’s premier sake-producing regions.
If you happen to be a fan of sake and plan on being in Hiroshima, I highly suggest that you drop by Saijo. Whether you take part in a brewery tour or just stroll through Saijo’s charming streets, a half-day outing here is both an easy addition to most standard itineraries and a great way to see an entirely different side of Hiroshima Prefecture than most other foreign tourists.
How to Get There
Let’s take a quick breather to cover how to get to Saijo. For most of you, the journey will begin at Hiroshima Station, but if not, you’ll want to dig around in a service like Jorudan to find the best way to get there. Assuming that you’re coming from Hiroshima Station, you’ll want to hop on the Sanyo Main Line heading toward Mihara. The ride takes roughly 35–40 minutes, but I suggest doing it in the evening and staying overnight in Saijo. That way, you won’t have to make the trek over in the morning.
Once you arrive in Saijo, the majority of the sake breweries are within an easy, few minutes’ walk from the station. The heart of Saijo’s sake culture is centered around the historic Sake Brewery Street (or Sakagura Dori in Japanese). This charming area is a living testament to the town’s sake-brewing heritage, with its iconic white plaster walls, black lattice designs, and towering red brick chimneys proudly displaying the names of each brewery. The street is lined with seven major breweries, each offering its unique take on sake while preserving the town’s deep-rooted traditions.
The best way to enjoy Saijo is to embark on one of the English-language tasting tours that are available. These tours take you around to all the breweries, giving you the chance to sample some of their savory concoctions. While Saijo is somewhere you can explore on your own, having the addition of a knowledgeable guide will help you better appreciate the unique sake of Saijo.
Saijo’s Sake Breweries
As noted, the best way to explore Saijo’s seven breweries is to join one of the tours that are on offer. That said, if you’d prefer to meander about on your own, that is also an option. The following are some of the highlights you should consider making the rounds to while in Saijo:
- Kamotsuru Sake Brewery
One of Saijo’s most famous breweries, Kamotsuru is credited with pioneering the ginjo-zukuri brewing method. Established in 1873, this brewery has a long history of innovation and is known for its premium sake, including the Kamotsuru Daiginjo, which is famously used for ceremonial purposes. Visitors can enjoy a guided tour and taste a variety of their exquisite offerings. - Kamoizumi Sake Brewery
Kamoizumi stands out for its rich, full-bodied sake made with minimal filtration. This brewery prides itself on producing sake that is unpasteurized and unfiltered, offering bold flavors that appeal to sake connoisseurs. Their lineup includes unique varieties that pair well with a range of cuisines. - Saijotsuru Sake Brewery
Saijotsuru is a must-visit for those looking to experience traditional brewing methods. This brewery specializes in producing classic-style sake with a smooth, light flavor profile. It’s a favorite among locals and offers a glimpse into Saijo’s rich brewing traditions. - Hakubotan Sake Brewery
Established in 1675, Hakubotan is one of the oldest breweries in Saijo. Known for its soft and mellow sake, Hakubotan prides itself on using Saijo’s pristine water sources to craft sake with a delicate and refined taste. Their brewery shop also features limited-edition varieties that make for great souvenirs. - Fukubijin Sake Brewery
Fukubijin is a smaller brewery with a focus on artisanal production techniques. Their sake is characterized by its balance of sweetness and acidity, making it a popular choice for both casual drinkers and seasoned sake enthusiasts. This brewery often hosts tastings that allow visitors to sample their most sought-after labels. - Sanyotsuru Sake Brewery
Known for its dedication to quality over quantity, Sanyotsuru produces small batches of handcrafted sake that reflect the essence of Saijo’s natural environment. Their sake is often described as crisp and refreshing, making it a perfect choice for pairing with seafood or lighter dishes. - Kirei Sake Brewery
Kirei is a newer addition to Saijo’s sake scene but has quickly gained a reputation for its innovative approach. They blend traditional brewing techniques with modern touches, creating sake that appeals to both purists and those new to the beverage. Be sure to try their seasonal offerings, which often incorporate local ingredients
Each of these breweries offers its own unique take on sake, and no two are quite alike. Whether you’re guided by a tour or exploring at your own pace, Saijo’s breweries provide an unforgettable journey through the world of Japanese sake.
The Saijo Sake Festival
If you’re planning to visit Saijo in autumn, you won’t want to miss the Saijo Sake Festival, one of Japan’s most celebrated sake events. Held annually on the second weekend of October, this two-day celebration transforms the entire town into a lively festival of sake and culture. The festivities bring together over 900 varieties of sake from across Japan, making it a paradise for sake enthusiasts. At the heart of it all is the Sake Hiroba, an open-air tasting area where visitors can sample drinks from breweries both local and nationwide for a single admission fee. With your tasting cup in hand, you’re free to explore and discover new favorites while soaking in the festival’s vibrant atmosphere. Advance tickets for the Sake Hiroba are highly recommended, as this area is one of the festival’s most popular attractions and often sells out.
Beyond the sake tasting, the Saijo Sake Festival also features a variety of performances, parades, and other cultural events. Traditional dance and music groups take to the streets, creating a festive energy that’s infectious to everyone in attendance. Food stalls line the roads, offering delicious local dishes and snacks to complement your sake experience. From hearty Hiroshima-style okonomiyaki to seasonal delicacies, there’s something for everyone. In addition to the main festival area, you’ll also find smaller, community-run events throughout the town, adding a more intimate charm to the festivities. The festival is family-friendly, with activities and attractions that cater to visitors of all ages.
One of the festival’s most unique aspects is its focus on connecting people with Saijo’s sake-brewing traditions. Many of the breweries along Sake Brewery Street open their doors for special tours and tastings, giving visitors an exclusive peek behind the scenes of the brewing process. During the festival, the street is beautifully illuminated at night, adding to the magical atmosphere. Visitors can also enjoy hands-on workshops or purchase limited-edition sake that’s only available during the festival.
All in all, the event serves as a wonderful opportunity to not only enjoy sake but also to deepen your appreciation for the craftsmanship and history behind it. Whether you’re a casual drinker or a dedicated sake connoisseur, the Saijo Sake Matsuri offers an unforgettable experience in the heart of one of Japan’s most renowned sake towns.
Other Nearby Attractions
While it would be wrong, per se, to state that there is nothing else to do in Saijo beyond its sake breweries, I also want to be respectful of your time in Japan. Thus, rather than try to urge you to eke out a bit more while in Saijo, I’ll instead recommend that you either head back to Hiroshima City (where you’ll find all sorts of allures beyond its World War II legacy) or continue east. Which option you choose depends greatly on your itinerary, but know that either is a convenient choice.
Were it me, I would elect to head east and then take the bullet train back towards Tokyo via either Fukuyama Station or Shin-Onomichi Station. Though I’ll leave the planning of any further logistics up to you, the following are the spots in the area that I recommend you consider…
- Onomichi
This picturesque port town is known for its charming hillside streets, historic temples, and stunning views of the Seto Inland Sea. Additionally, since it’s the starting point of the Shimanami Kaido, which connects Honshu to Shikoku via a series of bridges, it’s a popular haven for cyclists. While there, be sure not to miss a walk along its temple walk, a scenic trail that winds past traditional temples and quaint shops. - Tomonoura
Situated to the south of Fukuyama Station, this serene fishing village offers the chance to step back in time to the Edo period (1603–1868). Thus, it has become a favorite spot for filmmakers and history buffs alike. Located on the Seto Inland Sea, it’s renowned for its picturesque harbor, historic buildings, and local specialty homeishu (medicinal liquor). The tranquil atmosphere makes it an ideal destination for those seeking a quiet escape from the bustle of larger cities. - Takehara
Often referred to as the “Little Kyoto of Aki,” Takehara is a beautifully preserved historic town with streets lined by traditional merchant houses. The town is also known for its connection to anime, having served as the inspiration for locations in the popular series Tamayura. While there, be sure to visit the Takehara Museum of History and Culture or explore the bamboo-themed arts and crafts for which the town is renowned. - Okunoshima
Also known as the “Rabbit Island,” Okunoshima is a unique destination where hundreds of friendly rabbits roam freely, attracting visitors from around the world. Beyond the adorable bunnies, the island holds a solemn history as a former site for chemical weapons production during World War II, a story documented at the Okunoshima Poison Gas Museum. With its tranquil beaches and scenic walking trails, the island is also an ideal spot to relax and enjoy nature.
I’ve linked all of my prior work above, so if you’re keen to learn more about any of these four options, just check out those articles. However, even if you just head over to Fukuyama Station to see Fukuyama Castle, which resides right outside, you’ll still get a taste of what the eastern side of Hiroshima has to offer.
Until next time travelers…
