For some time now, I’ve been escaping to Chiba Prefecture whenever I needed a break from the madness. Most famously, the seaside town of Katsuura saved me from complete and utter burnout back in 2022, and ever since, Chiba has been my choice when I wanted to carve out some much-needed time for myself to recharge and get back on track. Having explored most of the Boso Peninsula’s southernmost sections, I recently decided to check out Chiba’s easternmost point and visit Choshi City when I needed a brief reprieve from my many clients and creator inquiries.
Now, I imagine that most of you have never heard of Choshi before. Essentially comprising the area that makes up the “elbow” jutting out from the northeastern part of Chiba, this part of the prefecture has actually long been an important part of the Kanto region. While historically, Choshi has been around for some time, the city really began to thrive during the Edo period (1603–1868) when the Tokugawa shogunate helped develop the local fishing and soy sauce factories. Thereafter, the fishing port was built up as Japan entered modernity.
Unfortunately for us, Choshi City was the victim of many Allied attacks during World War II, as it was an important fishing harbor for Imperial Japan. This is quite tragic, as it seems that Choshi would have otherwise had tangible history to behold. Allegedly, the town grew up around its temple of Enpuku-ji, which is dedicated to the bodhisattva Kannon and is considered one of the 33 sites on the Bando Pilgrimage. While this temple and the rest of Choshi’s many allures have, of course, been rebuilt, it’s tragic that even this rural part of Japan lost much of its past to the ravages of war.
Despite the bombings during World War II, Choshi is still a city full of attractions. Whether as an ambitious day trip from Tokyo or an overnight indulgence, an outing to Choshi is perfect for those who want to venture off Japan’s beaten path and explore somewhere few foreign travelers ever get the opportunity to see. Between its fish market collection, delicious restaurants, and beautiful views of the Pacific Ocean, Choshi is sure to deliver!
How to Get There
Before we go too far, allow me to quickly pause and cover some key logistics before we dive into what to see and do in Choshi City. Assuming you’re coming from the Tokyo area, your best bet is to take a Shiosai limited express train from Tokyo Station. You should do some digging around in a service like Jorudan to check the departure times, as the alternative of taking one of the local trains requires a transfer at Chiba Station. Note that Choshi can also be reached via highway bus if you prefer that to the train.
Once you’re in Choshi, you’ll need to make use of the Choshi Electric Railway to get around this eastern part of Chiba Prefecture. Though some points of interest in Choshi can be reached on foot from Choshi Station, others, like the iconic Inubosaki Lighthouse, are too far to walk. Thus, you’ll either need to rent a bike (which can be done at the local tourist information center) or use Choshi’s rustic railway to get around, which is actually a bit of an attraction in itself.
Finally, before we move on, I’d like to mention that Choshi’s location along the rugged coastline of Chiba Prefecture means the views in the early morning are stunning. In fact, many people in Japan like to watch the vivid colors of the first sunrise of the year over the horizon during New Year’s before heading off to enjoy a fresh breakfast. Whether or not you come for the first of the year during winter is up to you, but know that there are some great ryokan just south of Cape Inubo if this piques your interest.
Around the JR Choshi Station
While Choshi’s best attractions are found a little ways away from the main JR station, there are a few points of interest within walking distance. First up is Kawagishi Park, located just a couple of steps away from Choshi Station. This small park offers fantastic views of the Choshi Bridge, which spans the Tonegawa. It’s worth noting that Choshi sits right at the mouth of this ever-important river, where it empties into the Pacific Ocean. Whether you’re looking for a peaceful spot to rest or a scenic view of the waterway, Kawagishi Park is a great place to start your exploration of the city.
Another must-see in Choshi is its many fish markets, where travelers can snag some of the freshest seafood around. For what it’s worth, Choshi has long been known as a major fishing hub, and its markets offer a wide variety of freshly caught fish and other seafood. Whether you’re looking to sample something on the spot or take some delicacies with you, these markets are an authentic and delicious way to experience Choshi’s deep connection to the sea.
Next, be sure to visit Enpuku-ji, the ancient temple around which Choshi originally grew into what it is today. This historic site is not only significant to the city’s development but is also an important stop on the Bando Pilgrimage, a route dedicated to the bodhisattva Kannon. Enpuku-ji’s serene grounds and spiritual importance make it a must-visit for anyone interested in Choshi’s deeper cultural and historical roots. While there, be sure to marvel at the impressive five-story pagoda!
Lastly, don’t miss the opportunity to visit one of Higeta Shoyu’s soy sauce factories nearby the JR train station. A nod to Choshi’s long legacy as a hub for major soy sauce production, this company’s history dates back to the Edo period (1603–1868). Since you can partake in a guided tour at the Higeta Shoyu facility, it’s a great way to get a glimpse into this rich part of Choshi’s history and see how this essential Japanese condiment is still made today.
Choshi Port Tower
Choshi Port Tower is a striking landmark that offers visitors a unique perspective on Choshi’s bustling fishing industry and the surrounding landscape. Standing 57.7 meters tall, the tower features an observation deck that provides sweeping views of the sea, the Tonegawa, and Choshi’s expansive port area. From here, you can watch ships coming and going, and on a clear day, you can even see as far as the distant coast of neighboring Ibaraki Prefecture. The tower’s height and strategic location make it the perfect spot for those looking to get a bird’s-eye view of the region.
In addition to its observation deck, Choshi Port Tower houses an exhibition area that introduces visitors to the local fishing industry, showcasing the various types of fish caught in the area and the importance of seafood to the local economy. The tower also features a small market where customers can purchase fresh local products, including seafood and souvenirs. Whether you’re interested in getting an education about Choshi’s deep connection to the sea or simply want to enjoy a scenic view, Choshi Port Tower is a great stop to add to your itinerary.
Getting to Choshi Port Tower is a bit difficult. It’s located quite a ways from the Choshi Electric Railway’s nearest station and is also a bit too far to walk. Thus, you may want to opt to explore other points of interest unless you have a rental car or bike. While it’s not so out of the way as to be entirely out of the question, the trek from Motochoshi Station is about half an hour. If you’re visiting Choshi as just a day trip from Tokyo, you can safely skip this one in favor of the next attraction.
Inubosaki Lighthouse
One of Choshi’s most iconic landmarks is the Inubosaki Lighthouse. This spire is perched dramatically on a rocky cape that juts into the Pacific Ocean. Built in 1874, this Western-style lighthouse is one of Japan’s oldest and stands at an impressive 31 meters tall. It was designed by British engineer Richard Henry Brunton, who was responsible for many of Japan’s early lighthouses. The panoramic views from the top of the cliff are breathtaking, offering an incredible vista of the Pacific coastline and, on clear days, even the curve of the horizon.
When visiting Inubosaki Lighthouse, be sure not to miss NUBOW TERASU TERRACE. This modern facility located near the lighthouse on the same cliff and was designed to promote tourism and share local information about Choshi. This sleek, visitor-friendly center offers not only greats views but also boasts a cafe, a brewery and some vendors selling local goods. Whether you’re seeking travel tips or just a place to relax and take in the views, NUBOW TERASU TERRACE is a great stop on your visit to Choshi.
To get to Inubosaki Lighthouse and NUBOW TERASU TERRACE, you’ll want to take the Choshi Electric Railway bound for Tokawa Station from Choshi Station and get off at Inubo Station. From there, it is just a short walk to the lighthouse. The journey itself is a fun and nostalgic experience, as the Choshi Electric Railway is a quaint, old-fashioned line that adds to the charm of the trip. If you have the time, I also suggest a leisurely stroll along the neighboring Kimigahama and Ashikajima Beaches
By the way, be sure to buy a couple of the Choshi Electric Railway’s “Nure Senbei.” These moist rice crackers are something of a local specialty in this part of Japan, and the train line relies heavily on visitors purchasing them to stay in business. Apparently, sales of these treats subsidize up to 80% of the operational costs of this relic of a railway, so do your part to ensure they don’t end up going out of business.
Other Nearby Attractions
There are a lot more things to do in this part of Chiba Prefecture that aren’t really on the map yet for foreign tourists. For starters, within the Choshi city limits, there are some amazing sunflower fields for anyone visiting in July or August. There is also Inu-no-Iwa (lit. “”Dog Rock”), a natural rock formation that, as its name suggests, resembles a dog sitting by the ocean. It can be found near Tokawa Port, and the surrounding area features several other interesting rock formations that visitors can peer into and explore. These weathered stones, shaped by the relentless waves of the Pacific, add a touch of rugged beauty to Choshi’s coastline.
For those who love panoramic views and don’t mind working up a bit of a sweat while traveling in Japan, a hike up Mt. Atago is well worth the effort. Though it’s not particularly challenging to scale, Mt. Atago’s upper areas offer a fantastic vantage point to take in sweeping views of Choshi’s southernmost fishing port and beyond. It’s a great spot for a quiet escape and provides an opportunity to appreciate the natural beauty of the region while being surrounded by serene greenery.
Additionally, the townscape around Tokawa Station on the Choshi Electric Railway is also worth a visit. This part of Choshi has retained a nostalgic, old-world charm, and meandering about makes one feel like they’ve stepped back in time. The station itself is a quaint, retro stop that gives visitors a glimpse into Japan’s past. You can stroll around the nearby fishing village, observe the daily activities at the port, or just enjoy the quiet seaside atmosphere. It’s a peaceful area, perfect for those looking to soak in a more laid-back, traditional side of Choshi.
Lastly, know that Choshi is also quite close to both Kashima Jingu and Katori Jingu. These intertwined shrines are two of my favorites, and I highly encourage anyone who goes to Choshi to consider stopping by on their way back to Tokyo. In my case, I spent one night in Choshi and then headed over to photograph Kashima Jingu’s sacred spring early in the morning on the following day. Thereafter, I took a relaxing highway bus ride back to Tokyo Station, and I highly recommend this trip!
Until next time travelers…
