These days, popular spots in Kyoto, such as Arashiyama and Kiyomizu-dera, have succumbed so badly to overtourism that they’re hardly recognizable anymore. Though this was already becoming an issue prior to the pandemic, these places have now reached a point where I can’t even recommend them to first-time visitors to Japan. However, I understand that those unfamiliar with Japan’s off-the-beaten-path allure still want to see the iconic sights, like Arashiyama’s bamboo grove. Fortunately, it’s easy to escape the crowds, if only momentarily, by visiting nearby Kameoka.
If you haven’t heard of Kameoka before, you’re likely not alone. Despite being only about 30 minutes from Kyoto Station, Kameoka feels as far removed from the overtourism madness in Japan’s former capital as can be. Nestled just beyond the mountains that form Kyoto’s westernmost border, Kameoka is a hidden hamlet that few foreign tourists ever truly experience. While many Arashiyama visitors do indeed choose to take a Hozugawa River Boat Ride or hop on the Sagano Romantic Train, few, if any, venture further into Kameoka.
Historically, Kameoka’s past is deeply intertwined with its strategic location at Kyoto’s westernmost chokepoint. During Japan’s feudal era, it played a crucial role as a transportation hub, connecting the imperial capital with the Tamba region and beyond. To protect this vital artery, Tanba-Kameyama Castle was constructed in the late 16th century, and up until it was dismantled during Japan’s modernization, the stronghold stood watch over this important spot, guarding access into and out of Kyoto.
Nowadays, Kameoka is the perfect destination for anyone looking for a convenient escape from the crowds of Arashiyama. Both the Hozugawa River Boat Ride and the Sagano Romantic Train offer scenic alternatives to the bustling bamboo groves, adding a bit of magic to any standard itinerary. Additionally, you can also soak at the serene Yunohana Onsen, explore the historic Tanba-Kameyama Castle Ruins, or simply enjoy the beautiful natural surroundings. It’s a great way to experience Japan’s bucolic beauty and authentic culture without venturing too far into the countryside.
By the way, Kameoka is also well-known for its Higanbana (red spider lilies), which is actually why I ended up visiting in early October. Simply put, Anao-ji is one of the best spots in the country to see this famed fall flower. The haunting beauty of the Higanbana can be enjoyed in the rice fields around Anao-ji, creating a stunning, almost surreal landscape that captures the charm of the season. We’ll circle back to the Higanbana later on, but for now, just know that it’s a sight worth planning your trip around!
How to Get There
Before we dive into the many wonders of Kameoka City, let’s take a quick breather to cover some key logistics. Compared to some of the more obscure destinations I’ve covered on this blog, getting to Kameoka directly from Kyoto Station is incredibly straightforward, making it an ideal choice for first-time visitors seeking a quick escape from the crowds. Simply take the JR Sagano Line from Kyoto’s main hub to Kameoka Station. As always, use a service like Jorudan to calculate connections, but the trip should only take about 30 minutes.
Many visitors to Kameoka opt for a more scenic approach by taking the Sagano Romantic Train from Arashiyama, which winds through the beautiful gorge carved by the Hozugawa. For this route, head to Saga-Arashiyama Station first and purchase your ticket outside the station. The scenic tram ride will drop you off on the far side of the mountains that separate Arashiyama and Kameoka. From there, you can either take a Hozugawa River Boat Ride back — a leisurely two-hour journey — or spend time exploring Kameoka itself.
Before moving on, it’s worth noting that getting around Kameoka can be a bit challenging. Although the former castle town is interconnected by a number of buses, their schedules are rather infrequent. Instead, I recommend renting one of the motor-assisted bicycles available outside Kameoka Station via the CogiCogi app. Alternatively, as is often the case when exploring more rural regions, a rental car makes it much easier to reach Kameoka’s local attractions.
Take a Hozugawa River Boat Ride
Let’s start with one of Kameoka’s most iconic attractions and work our way backward. Simply put, few sights are as emblematic of the area as the Hozugawa. This pristine river winds through the picturesque Hozu Valley, carving its way through lush mountains and rugged cliffs that showcase Kyoto’s natural beauty. The gorge’s steep rock formations and dense forests make for an unforgettable backdrop, especially during fall when the leaves change color. Historically, the Hozugawa was used for transporting timber and goods, but today, it’s famous for offering one of Japan’s most scenic riverboat rides.
While a Hozugawa River Boat Ride is the main reason many tourists visit Kameoka, it’s also an excellent option for those who enjoy off-the-beaten-path travel. Departing from Kameoka, skilled boatmen navigate traditional wooden ships through the winding river, passing both rapids and tranquil stretches. The ride lasts about two hours and costs 6,000 yen per person. The crafts are uncovered, offering an immersive experience in the surrounding nature. Along the way, the boatmen entertain passengers with local stories and jokes, adding a touch of cultural insight to the adventure.
It’s worth noting that this river ride conveniently ends in Arashiyama, making it the perfect way to conclude your day. Since the boats flow downstream with the current, they cannot return to Kameoka, so you’ll want to save the Hozugawa River Boat Ride as your final attraction in the area. Otherwise, you’ll need to find your way back to Kameoka. The launch point for the boats is located here, but be sure to reserve your river cruise early, as spots fill up quickly.
Ride the Sagano Romantic Train
If the Hozugawa River Boat Ride is what most people know Kameoka for, the Sagano Romantic Train has to come in as a close second. Pictured here above, this nostalgic railway winds its way through the very same ravine as the Hozugawa, following the river’s path through rugged cliffs and dense forests. Much shorter than the river cruise, the 25-minute ride offers the same sweeping views of the rushing river and surrounding natural beauty, making it especially popular in autumn when the foliage is at its finest (with cherry blossoms to discover in spring).
As with the Hozugawa boat rides, tickets for the Sagano Romantic Train sell out quickly, particularly in October and November. In fact, when I visited, the leaves hadn’t even started to turn yet, and I still had to wait nearly two hours for the next available seat. In light of this, I urge you to book as early in the day as possible. For example, you could head over to Arashiyama in the early morning, secure your tickets at Saga Torokko Station, and then visit the bamboo grove before the crowds arrive. Just note that anyone else looking to get a breath of fresh air away from the crowds will likely have the same idea.
The Sagano Romantic Train departs from Arashiyama and travels to Torokko Kameoka Station, providing a memorable and comfortable journey. Since the ride is a bit shorter (around 25 minutes) it’s an efficient alternative for those who want to enjoy the scenery but are pressed for time. The views on the train are similar to those on the riverboat, but without the water-based adventure or the two-hour time commitment. It’s ideal for travelers looking to capture the essence of the gorge without dedicating half a day to cruising down the Hozugawa.
The Tanba-Kameyama Castle Ruins
Though there are many historic sites within the Kameoka city limits, few are as accessible as the Tanba-Kameyama Castle Ruins. Originally built in the late 16th century by the famous samurai Akechi Mitsuhide, the man who would go on to betray Oda Nobunaga, this castle once played an important role in the region as both a strategic defense point and a symbol of Akechi Mitsuhide’s power. While the castle itself was demolished in the early Edo period (1603–1868), the remaining stone walls and foundations still offer a glimpse into Kameoka’s feudal past.
For what it’s worth, know that the Tanba-Kameyama Castle Ruins sit atop a hill near the station and provide sweeping views of both the city and the Tamba Highlands. Visitors can walk along the stone walls that once formed the castle’s perimeter and imagine what life might have been like for samurai in the area, all without venturing too far. The castle’s site is also surrounded by lush forests, making it a peaceful spot for reflection and a great place for photography (particularly in autumn).
While the Tanba-Kameyama Castle Ruins aren’t exactly a must-visit while in this part of Japan, it’s a site that is extremely easy to tack on to just about any itinerary due to its location near the station. The grounds can be conveniently found here and are just a few minutes’ walk from Kameoka’s main train station. You can also take your rental bike over there too if you are following my advice.
See Some Higanbana at Anao-ji
As mentioned in the introductory chapters, the main reason I found myself in this part of Kyoto Prefecture was to see Anao-ji’s Higanbana. Considered one of 33 sacred sites in western Japan that belong to the Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage, this tiny temple is absolutely breathtaking from late September to the beginning of October — well, at least that’s what I thought! You see, the Higanbana don’t actually bloom at Anao-ji. Instead, they are scattered throughout the local rice fields, with the temple just at the center of it all.
One of the things that really sets Anao-ji apart from other Higanbana spots in Japan is the way the flowers aren’t all clustered together. Unlike somewhere such as Saitama’s Kinchakuda Manjushage Park, the Higanbana near Anao-ji are sprinkled throughout the rice fields surrounding the temple grounds. As seen above, this creates a very different aesthetic compared to the endless sea of red that Kinchakuda Manjushage Park is known for.
From what I gather, the Higanbana here are actually functional, too. As anyone who has heard me rave about these heralds of early autumn likely knows, Higanbana are highly poisonous. Though this is one reason they are symbolic of death in Buddhist lore, their toxic nature is also great for keeping pests out of the rice fields. What’s more, their timing is perfect, as they bloom around the start of the harvest in Japan, right when their protection is most needed.
In addition to the Higanbana around Anao-ji, there is also the nearby Yume Cosmos Garden. As the name suggests, this spot is home to 8 million colorful cosmos that bloom around the same time as the Higanbana. While the garden is not open throughout the year, it’s a wonderful addition that I urge anyone coming to Kameoka for the Higanbana to consider. Just be sure not to miss the adorable statues while perusing the grounds of Yume Cosmos Garden!
Lastly, note that Anao-ji itself is actually an interesting spot in its own right. Higanbana aside, it’s one of only 21 temples in western Japan authorized to issue amulets in the name of the Bodhisattva Kannon, the Buddhist goddess of mercy and compassion.
Other Nearby Attractions
Before you think of dashing back to Osaka or Kyoto, know that Kameoka is surrounded on all sides by options for additional adventures. While you could also head back into Kyoto’s city center, there is a lot more to do in town. So, if you’re going to make the effort to come to Kameoka and see more than just the Hozu Valley, I suggest you consider checking out one or more of the following options in this part of Kyoto Prefecture.
- Kuwayama Shrine
Established in 709, this historic shrine in the Kameoka valley basin honors the deity Takamitsu Omi, who is said to have carved out the valley with a hoe. The site actually contains two shrines dedicated to Takamitsu Omi and Betsuson Honda, both recognized as cultural properties by Kyoto Prefecture. With over 1,000 maple trees, Kuwayama Shrine is a popular spot for fall foliage. - Yunohana Onsen
Yunohana Onsen is one of Kameoka’s most relaxing spots, known for its natural hot springs nestled in the mountains. This peaceful onsen is famous for its therapeutic waters, which are said to have healing properties. Visitors can enjoy the calming atmosphere while soaking in the mineral-rich baths, making it a perfect retreat after a day of exploring. The area offers a range of ryokan where you can enjoy an overnight stay complete with onsen access and traditional meals. - Jinzo-ji
Jinzo-ji is located near Yunohana Onsen and is a historic Buddhist temple renowned for its stunning natural surroundings, particularly in autumn when the maple trees on the grounds turn vibrant shades of red and orange. Founded in the early Heian period (794–1185), Jinzo-ji offers a peaceful escape from the city and houses several notable Buddhist statues, including an impressive statue of Amida Nyorai. As far as temples go, its serene setting near Yunohana Onsen makes it a popular spot for those looking to enjoy both cultural heritage and the area’s natural beauty. - Kameoka Mitsuhide Festival
The Kameoka Mitsuhide Festival is one of Kameoka’s many annual events and honors the history of Akechi Mitsuhide. The festival features a vibrant procession through the city, with participants dressed in traditional samurai armor and period costumes, reenacting scenes from Akechi Mitsuhide’s life. Visitors can enjoy a range of cultural activities, including taiko drum performances, tea ceremonies, and displays of traditional Japanese arts and crafts.
In addition to these suggestions, I also highly recommend that you consider heading north to the “Kyoto by the Sea” area. Here, you’ll find the likes of Amanohashidate and Ine, two amazing hidden gems. Additionally, those of you who are interested in the yokai of Japan are also highly encouraged to check out Mt. Oe. This peak is said to be where the drunken demon Shuten Doji, one of Japan’s more fearsome yokai, had his stronghold.
Finally, if you want some recommendations for local cuisine, know that this place had some of the best beef that I’ve ever eaten (and that is coming from someone who is largely a carnivore). Using locally sourced cattle from this portion of Kyoto, you’d be hard-pressed to find a better place to dine. Since it’s located right by the train station and where all the hotels in Kameoka City are clustered, you really can’t go wrong with eating there!
Until next time travelers…
