One period of Japanese history that has always fascinated me is the unraveling of the Tokugawa shogunate’s hegemony during the mid-1800s. Known now as the Bakumatsu, this historical arc contains so much action that it would be difficult to even begin to summarize (instead, I’ll just direct you here). As those who know their Japanese history will already be aware, one key player during this era was the Mori clan, and even today, you can explore their former home base of Hagi on the Sea of Japan side of Yamaguchi Prefecture. As you’ll soon see, this locale is the perfect hidden gem and strikes an unbeatable balance between cultural significance and countryside charm.
Before we get into why Hagi is such a great destination, I first want to take a second and detail the backstory of the Mori clan, as understanding their role in history is important to truly appreciating Hagi. Essentially, the Mori clan originally rose to prominence during the Warring States period (1467-1603) as one of the most powerful samurai families in western Japan. They gained control over much of the region and were instrumental in supporting the unification of Japan under Toyotomi Hideyoshi. However, after the decisive Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, the clan was stripped of most of their territories by the victorious Tokugawa shogunate and forced to relocate to the smaller domain of Hagi in Yamaguchi Prefecture.
It’s said that the lord of the Mori clan never forgot this setback and held a grudge against the Tokugawas for centuries. In fact, the lords of the Mori clan had the peculiar habit of sleeping with their feet pointed towards Edo (modern-day Tokyo) as a sign of blatant disrespect. This resentment eventually translated into action during the Bakumatsu, when the Mori clan played a key role in the movement to overthrow the shogunate. Alongside other powerful domains, they formed the Satcho Alliance, which actively opposed the Tokugawa rule. Ultimately, their combined might provided crucial military and political support to the imperial forces, ultimately contributing to the downfall of the shogunate and the restoration of power to the Emperor in 1868.
While the seaside castle town of Hagi is indeed notorious for its role in bringing about the end of the Edo period (1603–1868), the place is actually better known for its pottery. Known in Japanese as Hagi-yaki, this style of ceramics is renowned for its simple, rustic beauty and subtle, earthy colors. Hagi-yaki originated in the early 17th century, when Korean potters, brought to Japan after the invasions of Korea, introduced their techniques. Characterized by its soft clay and unique, crackled glaze, Hagi-yaki is highly valued for its ability to change and develop a beautiful patina over time with use. Nowadays, visitors to Hagi can explore numerous kilns and even try their hand at making their own piece of this tangible connection to the town’s rich cultural heritage.
Alas, as great as Hagi is as a destination, it still remains firmly off the beaten path on the far side of Yamaguchi Prefecture. Thus, a trip to Hagi is not an outing that one makes on a whim. Instead, it is something that needs to be well planned. While the castle town is rife with ample allures, you should look to combine it with some of the additional locations featured in the “Other Nearby Attractions” section at the end of this article. That way, in addition to the mighty Mori clan’s legacy, you can make the most of your time in the Setouchi region and see what else is on offer.
How to Get There
As alluded to above, the trip to Hagi is no joke. To begin with, you’re going to need to find your way down to Yamaguchi Prefecture. To do so, you’ll want to take the Shinkansen from wherever your starting to Shin-Yamaguchi Station (just plug it into Jorudan or a similar service and follow the given guidance). From there, the easiest way to reach Hagi is to take the “Super Hagi” highway bus which will take you to the seaside city in around 60minutes or so. Just note that the departures are limited to but a few per day so you’ll want to look up schedules in advance.
Alternatively, you can do what I did and come up the Sea of Japan backside of Yamaguchi Prefecture. In my case, I was coming from Shimonoseki and I’ll detail this route later on for reference. Suffice to say though, if you’d also like to see the like of Motonosumi Inari Shrine and Tsunoshima Bridge (two of the most iconic spots in the region), I’d recommend that you opt for this itinerary over the alternative of heading directly there. By doing so, you’ll be able to more thoroughly enjoy what Yamaguchi Prefecture and the rest of the Setouchi region have to offer in addition to Hagi’s many charms.
Once you’re in Hagi, it’s best to get around via electronically-assisted rental bicycles. Though there are buses and trains running throughout the city, their departures are woefully infrequent, meaning you’re going to spend a lot of time waiting around for nothing. Rather than waste any of your precious few days in Japan with this inconvenience, you’d do well to heed my advice and get yourself a bike. For my trip, I got one right outside Higashi-Hagi Station, but a quick search on Google Maps shows a few other rental spots scattered around the area too…
Time Slip to the Edo Period
By far, the best part of Hagi is the town’s historic vibe. Though there are a number of locations that I suggest you frequent during your stint in Hagi, the main thing to savor is the atmosphere. The best place to do this is in the former castle town, which you’ll find located right in the middle of Hagi. Though reminiscent of other Edo period (1603–1868) towns like Kawagoe in Saitama, one memorable thing about Hagi for me was the overwhelming number of preserved samurai and wealthy merchant domiciles. The following is a list of these former homes near Hagi’s center:
- Kikuya Residence
This 350-year-old home once belonged to a samurai-turned-merchant family. It’s well known for its avant-garde design that includes sliding doors that can actually turn a corner, thereby affording an unobstructed view of the garden. The Kikuya Residence is open daily and will set you back 620 yen to enter, which admittedly is quite expensive in comparison to the following two. - Kubota Residence
Formerly belonging to a kimono and sake merchant family, the Kubota Residence is a 200-year-old house that features spacious rooms, a large kitchen space, and tools that date from the end of the 1800s. It’s open year-round and will cost you 100 yen to enter. - Takayoshi Kido Residence
This domicile was the former residence of the influential statesman Takayoshi Kido, remembered as one of the “Three Heroes” of the Meiji Restoration. The building can be found on a side street branching off the main road to Hagi Castle. If you visit the 250-year-old home, be sure not to miss the ancient pine tree in its garden. Admission is priced quite cheaply at only 100 yen, so don’t miss it.
Additionally, you’ll want to drop by the Aiba Waterway. Located southeast of Hagi’s former castle town, this section of the city was constructed in the 18th century for daily use by residents, transporting goods like firewood and rice. Today, colorful carp swim in its waters, and the canal is a scenic spot for strolling through the quiet neighborhood. Notable houses, such as the Yukawa Residence, incorporate the waterway in their design, with areas for washing and bathing connected to the canal. Visitors can also explore the Katsura Taro Residence, which features an elegant garden fed by the waterway.
Back near where other preserved residences are found, you’ll also discover the ruins of the aforementioned Hagi Castle. Originally built in 1604 after the western alliance lost at the Battle of Sekigahara, Hagi Castle served as the seat of the powerful Mori Clan for over 250 years, following their forced relocation from Hiroshima. While the castle was mostly destroyed in the late 19th century, its moats and stone walls remain and are now part of Shizuki Park, a scenic area perfect for a stroll or bike ride. The park also features a shrine, a teahouse, and a trail leading to the summit of Mt. Shizuki.
The Legacy of the Mori Clan
While we are on the topic of the vengeful Mori clan, allow me to also introduce the places of internment for their eminent lords. Within the confines of Hagi, there are two temples that act as funeraries for the Mori clan. One of these locations is known as Toko-ji, a serene Zen temple founded in 1691. Nestled within tranquil woods east of Hagi’s center, Toko-ji offers visitors a peaceful retreat and features striking Buddhist architecture, with a distinctive crimson entrance gate, a grand Sanmon Gate, and an impressive bell tower.
While Toko-ji’s main hall (which houses a statue of the historical Gautama Buddha) is impressive on its own, the real reason to visit Toko-ji is located out back. Here, you’ll find the burial site of half of the Mori clan lords who governed Hagi during the Edo period (1603–1868). As you’ll learn if you read up on Toko-ji, the odd-numbered lords are interred here, while the even-numbered lords rest over at Daisho-in. The peaceful atmosphere of Toko-ji’s forested graveyard makes it a reflective and spiritual experience.
Toko-ji is located about two kilometers or so southeast of Higashi-Hagi Station. As alluded to above in the logistics section, the most convenient way to reach the temple is by rental bike, and it takes about 10–15 minutes to pedal your way there. Alternatively, buses running on the Maru Bus East Loop go to Toko-ji if you prefer or can’t ride a bicycle for whatever reason. Just note that you’re going to want to plan out when you need to be back to the bus stop by well in advance.
While I suggest everyone visit Toko-ji while they are in Hagi, those with time are encouraged to also drop by Daisho-in too. Built in 1656, Daisho-in is the family temple of the Mori clan and belongs to the Rinzai school of Zen Buddhism. The temple features a tranquil garden and is the final resting place for the first and even-numbered Mori lords. The burial site, located in the woods behind the temple, is lined with hundreds of stone lanterns donated over the centuries, creating a spiritual atmosphere that’s worth experiencing.
Daisho-in is situated just south of Hagi’s city center in a more rural part of the city. Like with Toko-ji, the temple grounds are easily reachable by rental bike, but you can also go there via public transportation. In case you need to bus it, know that both the West Loop and East Loop of the Maru Bus stop at Daisho-in Iriguchi, and from there, it’s just a mere five-minute walk to the temple.
Experience Hagi-yaki
For anyone out there who is a pottery head, know that Hagi is going to be a dream come true. Home to many highly skilled kilns, the castle town is known for its so-called “Hagi-yaki” ceramics. This traditional pottery style, was introduced to the region from Korea in the early 1600s and flourished during the Edo period (1603–1868). Hagi’s ware are renowned for their common use in tea ceremonies. Hagi-yaki is prized for its soft clay and crackled glaze, which changes color over time as tea seeps into the porous surface, adding character to each piece with continued use.
If you’re interested in seeing Hagi-yaki up close (and let’s be frank, you should be), here are a few key spots to visit…
- Yoshika Taibi Memorial Museum
This facility boasts a large collection of locally made pottery and ceramics done in the Hagi-yaki style, as well as paintings by Yoshiaki Taibi. At an adjacent workshop, you can also observe the process of how Hagi-yaki is made firsthand. Entry is 600 yen, but it is well worth it if you’re a fan of ceramics! - Hagi Uragami Museum
Found near the former castle town’s central area, the Hagi Uragami Museum showcases a great collection of Hagi-yaki, along with Ukiyo-e and contemporary art. Entry is only 300 yen, so check it out if you have time while exploring. - Hagi-yaki Pottery Museum
This small curation is located right by the ruins of Hagi Castle and contains several ceramic artifacts from the 1600s. Though comparatively tiny, it is still worth visiting when you swing by the castle. That said, the entry fee is quite pricey at 600 yen, considering its size.
For those wanting a more hands-on experience, Hagi also offers pottery workshops at several local kilns, where visitors can try their hand at crafting their own piece of Hagi-yaki. As previously noted, the workshop near Yoshika Taibi Memorial Museum is a great place to observe and even participate in the process, while other local studios around town also offer opportunities for travelers to create and bring home their own personalized pottery.
Just know that English is not going to be commonly spoken in Hagi. If you want to learn directly from local craftsmen, you’re either going to need to be proficient in communicating via gestures or have a skilled Japanese speaker in your group. That said, assuming that you like ceramics and that you can overcome the language barrier, this is bound to be one of the highlights of your Hagi travels, if not your entire Japan trip!
Other Nearby Attractions
In a second, I’ll detail the other destinations in this part of the Setouchi region that I think you should visit in conjunction with Hagi. First though, I want to go over a few more spots within the city limits that I think the completionist readers out there would want to know about. While the topics that I’ve covered thus far are what I would consider the main allures, these ancillary spots are worth considering if you have the time.
- Shoin Shrine
Dedicated to Yoshida Shoin, a revered intellectual who played a key role in Japan’s modernization, Shoin Shrine is a Shinto sanctuary that honors his legacy. Today, visitors can explore the shrine grounds, including the school where Yoshida Shoin taught his radical ideas that shaped the Meiji Restoration. - The Former Residence of Ito Hirobumi
This villa was the former residence of Ito Hirobumi, Japan’s first prime minister who actually hailed from Hagi. The elegant building offers a glimpse into the life of one of the key figures behind Japan’s modernization. - Hagi Meirin Gakusha Visitor Center
The Hagi Meirin Gakusha Visitor Center is a great starting point for anyone exploring the historical aspects of Hagi. Housed in a former school, the center provides detailed exhibits on the region’s samurai heritage, the local role in the Meiji Restoration, and a fascinating life-size replica of Hagi Castle’s keep. Visitors can also join walking tours from here, making it a convenient hub for learning and exploring. Be sure to drop by to deepen your understanding of Hagi’s rich history! - Hagi Reverberatory Furnace
A historical site used to cast cannons during the Bakamatsu, the Hagi Reverberatory Furnace played a role in the country’s industrialization efforts. Today, it stands as a testament to Japan’s early technological advancements. It’s located a little ways out from the central areas though so only consider goinghere if you have a rental bike. - Ebisugahana Shipyard
The Ebisugahana Shipyard is one of Japan’s oldest, where Western-style ships were constructed during the late 1800s. The site showcases the efforts Japan made to strengthen its naval power during the push for modernization. Like with the Hagi Reverberatory Furnace, the Ebisugahana Shipyard is situated to the northeast of Hagi’s center making it a little bit of a challenge to get to.
Moving on, know that you’d be silly to come to this section of Setouchi and not see some of the other sights. In addition to Hagi’s many varied points of appeal, the nearby Motonosumi Inari Shrine (pictured above) is also somewhere that you should visit if you ever find yourself out here. Located on the coast of the Sea of Japan in neighboring Nagato City, this hidden gem is one of the most picturesque shrines in the entire country, with its iconic 123 vermillion torii gates leading down to the sea.
Nearby Motonosumi Inari Shrine is also Tsunoshima Bridge. Being one of the most photogenic archways of its kind, this bridge is something of a symbol of the region and frequently crops up on social media. Spanning over azure waters to the small island of Tsunoshima, the bridge offers breathtaking views of the coastline. However, access isn’t the best, so it’s highly recommended to rent a car if you plan to visit. The scenic drive itself adds to the overall experience, making it a worthwhile stop in your Setouchi adventure.
For those looking to stay somewhere fancy, a night at one of the ryokan in Nagato Yumoto Onsen is also something that I’d recommend. This historic hot spring resort offers a range of luxurious accommodations where you can unwind in natural onsen baths surrounded by peaceful nature. Many of the ryokan here combine traditional Japanese aesthetics with modern comforts, providing a relaxing retreat. Keep in mind that, due to its slightly remote location, it’s also best to visit Nagato Yumoto Onsen by car, making it a perfect complement to your trip through the region.
Finally, we have Shimonoseki and Yamaguchi City. During my visit, I made my way up to Hagi from this historic port town, thereby making a multiple-day outing for myself. You could opt to follow suit and then circle back down to Shin-Yamaguchi Station via the Super Hagi highway buses. By the way, Yamaguchi City was just recently included on the New York Times “52 Places to Go” list for 2024, earning accolades for its blend of history, culture, and stunning natural scenery. It’s definitely worth adding to your itinerary if time allows!
Until next time travelers…
