When I originally published my in-depth primer on Akita Prefecture, I thought I had covered it all. Alas, as is always the case with Japan, no endeavor to thoroughly introduce a place is ever fully complete. In my foolishness, I had left out the prefecture’s northernmost extremes. Today, I’d like repent for my former sins and introduce you to what might very well be Akita’s best kept secrets—the areas of Odate, Kosaka, Kami-Koani and Kita-Akita.
Northern Akita is famous for two things that truly embody the spirit of this rugged region: the Akita Inu and the Matagi hunters. The Akita Inu, known for its loyalty and strength, is more than just a breed of dog — it’s a symbol of the prefecture’s resilience and natural beauty. Equally iconic are the Matagi, traditional hunters who have lived in harmony with the mountains for centuries, preserving ancient customs and techniques. Together, these two cultural treasures offer a glimpse into a way of life deeply connected to the wild landscapes of Akita’s northern reaches.
While certainly off the beaten path, northern Akita rewards those adventurous enough to make the journey with some of Japan’s most breathtaking scenery. From the tranquil shores of Lake Towada to the dramatic slopes of Mt. Moriyoshi, famed for its stunning frost-covered trees in winter, the region is a haven for nature lovers. Yes, it requires a bit more effort to reach, but for those willing to brave the distance, the rewards are immense: pristine landscapes, vibrant seasonal colors, and a sense of solitude that’s increasingly rare in Japan’s more popular destinations.
Note that the northern sections of Akita is actually a lot closer to Aomori’s main allures than other parts of Akita Prefecture, such as Kakunodate and Lake Tazawa. As you’ll see in the “Other Nearby Attractions” section, it’s easy quite to visit both Hirosaki and the stunning Oirase Gorge from this area. This makes northern Akita an ideal stop for anyone looking to explore not just the hidden gems of Akita itself, but also the sites of neighboring Aomori Prefecture.
How to Get There
Before we get too deep into the weeds, I want to first cover some key logistics and clarify our terms. For the purposes of this piece, I am going to use the same definition that Akita Inu Tourism does when referring to what constitutes “northern Akita.” This means that we’ll be talking about Odate, Kosaka, Kami-Koani, and Kita-Akita. To avoid making your brain hurt even more, I’ll largely refrain from using their full proper names as the distinction between what’s a town, what’s a city, etc., gets confusing quickly.
Anyway, getting to northern Akita will require you to fly into Odate-Noshiro Airport. Everyone knows that I’m big on train travel, as flying often means a lot of wasted time getting through security and waiting for takeoff. Even so, northern Akita is not really reachable by any convenient train route. While you can eventually get there from Akita’s capital city or from Hirosaki, anyone looking to go is highly encouraged to bite the bullet and fly up if you don’t want to waste a day.
Now, it would be a lie to say that there isn’t public transportation up in the northern extremes of Akita, but unlike elsewhere in the prefecture, it’s a bit of a pain to use. Thus, I highly suggest that you get a rental car if you can. While you could somehow make the buses and infrequent trains work, you’ll need to meticulously plan your adventures in advance with a service like Jorudan because departures are extremely infrequent. If you miss a train or bus, it could be a few hours until the next one.
Where possible, I’ll leave Google Map links when talking about various destinations. This will help you figure out how to get around much more easily and plan your outings. Whether you get your own set of wheels or need to schlep your sorry self around on public transportation, having the locations that you want to visit already saved in your Google Map will make navigating northern Akita that much easier.
Odate & Its Epic Festival
With most of the other parts of the region being extremely rural, Odate City is the main urban center of northern Akita. It’s known for its traditional crafts, such as magewappa, and its hearty local cuisine, including kiritampo, an iconic rice dish from Akita Prefecture that’s perfect for the colder months of the year. Odate also has a rich history linked to the Akita Inu breed and is proud to celebrate this heritage through various attractions.
One of the primary draws of Odate is the opportunity to meet the famous Akita Inu dogs up close. At the Akita Inu Visitor Center, a modern facility dedicated to this beloved breed, visitors can learn all about their history, meet these majestic dogs in person, and even take a selfie with them. It’s a must-visit for dog lovers and anyone interested in experiencing the unique charm of this loyal and noble breed.
While you’re in Odate, I suggest that you check out some (if not all) of the following points of interest…
- Odate Shinmei Shrine
This historic Shinto shrine was established over a thousand years ago. Its tranquil grounds are hidden away on the southwestern outskirts of downtown Odate and are an important part of the city’s vibrant culture. It’s most famous for its annual Odate Shinmeisha Festival which I will cover in a bit. - The Birthplace of Hachiko
While in this part of the prefecture, you can actually visit the birthplace of the now world-famous Akita Inu whose statue sits outside Shibuya Station back in Tokyo. A statue of Hachiko stands here as well, paying homage to the dog’s enduring loyalty and the local pride in his legacy. - Akita Inu Museum
Dedicated to preserving and promoting the Akita Inu breed, this museum features exhibits on the history and characteristics of these iconic dogs, along with memorabilia and a chance to meet them in person. While it may not be as essential as the Akita Dog Visitor Center, it’s still a worthwhile stop for fans of these cool canines. - Keijo Park
Located right next to the Akita Inu Museum, Keijo Park was formerly the site of Odate Castle and is known for its beautiful cherry blossoms in spring and vibrant autumn foliage. With its picturesque scenery and tranquil atmosphere, it’s an ideal spot for a leisurely stroll or a picnic, offering visitors a chance to relax and enjoy the seasonal colors of northern Akita. - Furusawa Onsen
A charming hot spring facility that offers a relaxing retreat with stunning views of the surrounding countryside. It’s the perfect place to unwind after a day of exploring northern Akita. The facility is also home to an adorable pair of Akita Inu named Haru and Hana who will warmly welcome you when you check in. - Tonose Fuji-no-Sato
This locale is renowned for its stunning wisteria trellis, which blooms beautifully in late spring. These create a dreamy atmosphere with cascading purple blossoms that draw visitors from near and far. This enchanting setting is perfect for a leisurely stroll or a quiet moment to take in the beauty of nature, making it a must-see spot in northern Akita.
Finally, while you’re in Odate, I highly suggest that you budget some time to savor some Hinai-dori. This local specialty, known for its tender, flavorful meat, is considered one of Japan’s top chicken varieties. Whether enjoyed as yakitori or in a hot pot, the rich taste of Hinai-dori is something you shouldn’t miss. Many restaurants in Odate pride themselves on serving this delicacy, offering a truly authentic taste of the region that will leave you wanting more.
Held every year on September 10 and 11, the Odate Shinmeisha Festival is one of the most important annual events in Odate. For centuries, local residents have paraded the mikoshi of Odate Shinmei Shrine around the town. This revelry is closely followed by 14 intricately decorated floats that weigh well over a ton. On top, dancers from different parts of the city perform traditional Odate Bayashi music as neighborhoods compete to showcase the best floats and performances.
The festival’s origins trace back to the merging of two older celebrations in the late 17th century, when the enshrined deities of Furushinmei Shrine and the Akita clan’s family deity were brought together at the newly established Odate Shinmeisha Shrine. Despite setbacks, including a devastating fire in 1870 that destroyed much of the shrine’s infrastructure, the local community has preserved and revitalized this cherished tradition, making it a centerpiece of Odate’s cultural identity.
By far, the main draw of the Odate Shinmeisha Festival is its vibrant procession of festival floats. Originally, these were inspired by those from Kyoto’s Gion Festival, but the advent of modern technology meant their height needed to be reduced a bit to accommodate electrical wires. Still, as I found out when I participated in the Odate Shinmeisha Festival myself, these behemoth-sized floats are no joke, and it takes everyone’s combined effort to move them around the streets.
While there is a lot that goes on during the two days of the Odate Shinmeisha Festival, two highlights that you should not miss are the Tanosaka Hill Climb and the Iwamimizu “water fight” ceremony. The Tanosaka Hill Climb is the thrilling climax of the first day, where neighborhoods take turns sprinting up a steep slope, pulling their massive floats with all their might. The atmosphere is electric as each team competes to be the fastest, showcasing both strength and collective community spirit in this intense and exhilarating display.
On the eve of the second night, there is also the Iwamimizu “water fight” ceremony, a unique tradition that dates back to the festival’s history. Apparently, long ago in the days of yesteryear, floats would need to jostle with ones from other parts of Odate for the right of way. Allegedly, conflicts would sometimes erupt, and it’s said that during one particularly heated incident, one group threw water on the opposing float’s team to get them to cool off. This act has now been immortalized as the Iwamimizu in a symbolic gesture of purification and reconciliation.
If I am to be completely honest with you, getting to participate in the Odate Shinmeisha Festival was one of the highlights of my time in northern Akita. In fact, since normal observers can’t really take part in the Iwamimizu or the Tanosaka Hill Climb, it was truly an honor to be in the center of the action. The energy on display is electrifying, and I don’t think I have seen any other festival get this intense before. I literally lost my voice screaming “Wasshoi” all night and could barely speak on the following day.
If early September works for you, I highly suggest planning your trip to northern Akita in such a way that you can see the Odate Shinmeisha Festival. Trust me when I say that you won’t regret seeing this epic celebration. At the end of the day, I’ve been to a lot of festivals during my travels and few can hold a candle to this one!
Meeting the Matagi
One of the most iconic elements of northern Akita is its Matagi hunters, but before we go any further, let’s quickly pause for a second and cover what exactly a Matagi actually is. Essentially, the Matagi are traditional bear hunters whose unique culture and practices have been passed down for over 400 years. Deeply rooted in the rugged mountains of Akita, they are more than just hunters; they are stewards of the land, guided by sacred rituals and a deep respect for the natural world. Their way of life emphasizes sustainability and reverence, using every part of the animal and never taking more than what is needed.
The Matagi originated during the Edo period (1603–1868), when small groups of hunters formed communities in the mountainous regions of northern Japan. Legend has it that a young hunter saved a mountain goddess from a deity in the form of a giant snake and was granted the divine right to hunt across Japan. Over time, the Matagi developed their own distinct culture, blending influences from a variety of sources. Their practices, rooted in respect for nature, reflect a unique spiritual connection to their environment and the animals they hunt.
In days gone by, there used to be around a hundred or so Matagi living in the foothills of Mt. Moriyoshi. These days, though, their numbers have dwindled to just a handful of mostly elderly hunters. Still, there are some young bloods who want to get into the lifestyle, such as Oriyama Hideyuki, who left his life in Tokyo as a video editor to return to Akita. Now one of the leading hunters in the village of Ani, he has set up a guesthouse called Oriyamake and offers Matagi experiences to those who are interested in learning about this key component of Akita’s culture.
Guests at Oriyamake can immerse themselves in the traditional Matagi way of life through a variety of hands-on experiences. Activities range from foraging for wild edibles and learning about local plants to trekking through the rugged terrain of Mt. Moriyoshi on traditional kanjiki snowshoes. Visitors can also participate in cooking workshops, where they prepare and savor dishes made from freshly hunted game, such as bear or deer. Each of these experiences is designed to provide a deeper understanding of the Matagi’s sustainable lifestyle and their unique connection to the natural world.
While Oriyama Hideyuki’s guesthouse might be the most well-known and publicized of the Matagi guesthouses in this section of northern Akita, it is not the only one. Truth be told, my group and I actually stayed at a handful of others in the region, where we had the opportunity to partake in activities like fishing for Iwana in the pristine rivers of the prefecture. Regardless of which one you choose, having a stay at one of the Matagi guesthouses in northern Akita will greatly enhance your understanding and appreciation of the area.
Scaling Mt. Moriyoshi
Mt. Moriyoshi, standing at a towering 1,454 meters, is one of northern Akita’s natural treasures and is best known for its stunning year-round beauty. In winter, the mountain transforms into a surreal landscape of juhyo, or “snow monsters,” where the trees are coated with ice and rime, creating eerie yet breathtaking shapes. Visitors flock to the Ani Ski Resort during this time to experience the unique phenomenon and enjoy the pristine slopes.
In the warmer months, Mt. Moriyoshi is a paradise for hikers and nature enthusiasts. The trails offer vibrant displays of wildflowers from May to July, and come autumn, the entire mountain is set ablaze with the fiery colors of the fall foliage. For those seeking a less strenuous way to appreciate the scenery, the Moriyoshi Ski Resort operates its lifts in the off-season, providing easy access to panoramic views without the hike. Though it wasn’t operational when I visited, hopefully, you won’t need to haul yourselves up the mountain.
Beyond its stunning natural beauty, Mt. Moriyoshi is also significant in the cultural landscape of the region. It serves as a backdrop for the traditional practices of the Matagi hunters, who have roamed the foothills of this mighty mountain for centuries. Their deep reverence for the land and its resources is woven into the very fabric of the area, making Mt. Moriyoshi not just a destination for outdoor activities but also a place to connect with Akita’s rich cultural heritage.
Additionally, Mt. Moriyoshi is home to Moriyoshi Shrine, a sacred site long used as a training ground for mountain ascetics. These practitioners of Shugendo seek spiritual enlightenment through rigorous physical and mental discipline in the harsh mountain environment. The shrine’s object of worship is believed to hold the power to grant one a spiritual rebirth, making it a place of profound significance for those on a quest for deeper spiritual understanding.
If you enjoy a good hike and want to experience one of the defining elements of northern Akita’s culture, consider challenging Mt. Moriyoshi. For our adventure, we were guided by the amazing Okawa Miki, a jovial woman who has the energy of a teenager despite now being a grandmother herself. Reach out to her if you need someone to accompany you to Mt. Moriyoshi!
Other Nearby Attractions
If you’ve been paying attention, you’ll likely remember that the town of Kosaka is part of northern Akita. Comprising the northeastern portions of the region, Kosaka actually lays claim to the entire west shore of Lake Towada. Because of this, the famed body of water, as well as nearby Oirase Gorge, both combine very well with a trip to see the adorable Akita Inu. Though you’ll definitely want a rental car to do this, the logistics are quite sound, all things considered.
Back down on the northernmost border of Odate, you’ll also find the charmingly rustic Hikage Onsen at the very edge of the city. Conveniently situated on the Ou Main Line at the very edge of the city of Odate, this hot spring can be visited even by those without a rental car. What’s more, it’s on the way up to Hirosaki, meaning you could easily head there for some juicy apple picking after enjoying the Odate Shinmeisha Festival in early September.
Next up is the Isedotai Jomon Museum and the accompany dig site nearby. Truth be told, this facility really deserves to be included elsewhere in this guide, but due to its location near Odate-Noshiro Airport, it didn’t quite fit the narrative of this piece. So, since I don’t want to leave it out of the article entirely, I’m squeezing it in here and recommending that anyone who loves the Jomon period (14,000 BC — 300 BC) visit at the start or end of their northern Akita adventures.
Sadly, what I’ve covered here is really only the tip of the iceberg when it comes to northern Akita. There are options for SUP and kayaking near the Moriyoshizan Dam, as well as sites like Kumakuma Bear Park, where you can see the bears that the Matagi of this region have long hunted. Despite spending a full five days here in Akita, I feel like I only scratched the surface, so I definitely need to go back sometime and see more of what this amazing section of the prefecture has to offer.
Until next time travelers…
