If you’ve spent any time on social media, you’ve likely seen plenty of pictures of Motonosumi Inari Shrine. Located along the coast of the Sea of Japan in Yamaguchi Prefecture, this Shinto sanctuary is one of the most photogenic spots in all of Japan. Thanks to the influence of Instagram, the 123 torii gates of Motonosumi Inari Shrine have become something of a pilgrimage site for content-hungry creators looking for their next shot. Still, despite its recent rise to fame, the secluded location of Motonosumi Inari Shrine means that it largely maintains its off-the-beaten-path status.
As Shinto establishments go in Japan, Motonosumi Inari Shrine is actually quite new. The small shrine was only recently established in 1995 when a divine message was suddenly sent from a white fox spirit to a local resident of Nagato. These foxy figures are messengers of the deity of fertility, rice, tea, sake, agriculture, and industry, Inari Okami, hence Motonosumi Inari Shrine’s connection to this famous kami. Nowadays, locals go to pray for things like good fortune and healthy childbearing.
All in all, I would wager that Motonosumi Inari Shrine is a bit too far removed from any other major towns to warrant a visit on its own for anyone who isn’t a content creator. That said, if you ever find yourself on the northern coast of Yamaguchi Prefecture, you’d be a fool to pass up visiting the shrine. Ever since I started writing in 2016, Motonosumi Inari Shrine has been on my bucket list, and I recently finally had the good fortune to cross it off when visiting Hagi.
How to Get There
OK… This one might be a bit obvious since I only just made it there myself, but the trip to Motonosumi Inari Shrine is no easy task. By far, the best way to get there is via rental car. If you have your own set of wheels, you’ll be able to make your way over to Nagato City along the Chugoku Expressway. For the rest of us schleps who don’t have a car at our disposal, you’re going to need to take a local train bound for Nagato-shi Station.
Your final stop is going to be Nagato Furuichi Station. At least when I visited, I was coming up from Shimonoseki, and parts of the track leading up to this tiny train stop were damaged. As a result, JR West was running this part of the route with buses, but the stops along the way won’t change. It seems that services like Jorudan are already accounting for the modified departure times, so you should be able to figure out the schedules just as you would with anywhere else.
The real fun begins once you get to Nagato Furuichi Station. You see, much unlike other rural shrines such as Chichibu’s Mitsumine Shrine, there’s no bus service out to the shrine’s parking lot. Thus, you’re going to need to bite the bullet and take a taxi out. If my memory serves me correctly, this is going to come out to around 3,000 yen one way, which isn’t all that bad, especially if you’re traveling in a group. While you could walk it, the trek will be a hard and hilly one, so I can’t recommend it.
Unlike around bigger stations like Tokyo or Hiroshima Station, there aren’t just a bunch of taxis waiting for passengers. Thankfully, there is a Nagato City taxi company that has its offices right outside of Nagato Furuichi Station. From my talks with my driver, most of their passengers these days are foreign girls going out to capture Motonosumi Inari Shrine’s breathtaking scenery on camera. This means that you won’t be their first passenger, and you can likely manage to overcome the language barrier.
Exploring Motonosumi Inari Shrine
To be frank, Motonosumi Inari Shrine is nothing like its sister shrine, Fushimi Inari Taisha, in Kyoto. While its 123 torii gates are indeed enchanting, it’s really the striking contrast between the red gates and the cobalt blue of the Sea of Japan that’s the main attraction here. That said, the procession of red torii gates is not something that will take you all day to explore. Instead, I suggest that you take it slow and enjoy the seaside vibe, as Motonosumi Inari Shrine is truly one of the most beautiful places I’ve ever seen.
Obviously, Motonosumi Inari Shrine’s main highlight is its torii gate collection. These start up by the parking lot and wind their way down to the rocky coastline. Though best viewed from afar, descending through the series of 123 torii gates is indeed an experience, albeit not as “endless” as Inari’s iconic head shrine back in Kyoto. Down at the end of the row of torii gates, you’ll find a few Jizo statues as well as a vantage point from which you can see the clear waters of the Sea of Japan.
Back up at the start of the red torii gate procession, you’ll find the main areas of the shrine. Most notably, there is a big torii with Motonosumi Inari Shrine’s offertory box perched up high on it. Usually, you’ll find these in front of a shrine’s haiden, but here, things are done a bit differently. Instead of the normal way of praying, Motonosumi Inari Shrine’s visitors are asked to toss their coins up into the offering box that is suspended above.
Allegedly, if you can get your coin into the offertory box, Inari’s white fox messengers will grant your wish. This gamification of the normal process of praying at a shrine is an interesting and fun twist on the practice. Just be wary because there are likely to be a few other worshipers also trying to beseech the famed deity enshrined here. During the hour or so I was there, it was like coins were raining down from the heavens…
Back to Nagato Furuichi Station
This section is one that those with rental cars can feel free to skip. For the rest of us without our own ride, know that the hardest part of your journey to Motonosumi Inari Shrine is actually going to be getting back. Astute readers will already realize this, but if you taxi there, you’re going to need to taxi back. Alas, there isn’t always one waiting, so be sure to get your receipt as it will have the taxi company’s digits on it. Biting the bullet and giving them a ring is going to be your only way back.
Comically, the challenges of getting back to civilization don’t end with the taxi ride back to the station. As you’ll see if you dig around in any app, the frequency of train departures up here in this part of the Setouchi region is laughably low. Thus, you’re going to want to time your adventures well and be mindful of how many minutes you have left until the next train comes. When I visited, I think I ended up having to kill upwards of 90 minutes inside the tiny train station.
Oh, and should you find yourself in a similar position as I was, know that there’s a Lawson and a 7-Eleven within a five-minute walk. So, if you’ve got nothing else to do while waiting around, consider waltzing your way over to get some snacks or a cold beer (or both). This will help you pass the time while you wait for your train to eventually come.
Other Nearby Attractions
As noted above, you’d be silly to come out to Motonosumi Inari Shrine’s remote location just for it alone. Luckily, Yamaguchi has a ton of other fantastic things to see and do, making it easy to put together a multi-day itinerary. In my case, I began by visiting the port town of Shimonoseki. Located at the furthest extremes of Japan’s main island of Honshu, this historic city was one of the highlights of my travels this year.
Additionally, just to the east of Motonosumi Inari Shrine, you’ll also find the former castle town of Hagi. Once home to the vengeful Mori clan, who were key players in the end of the Tokugawa shogunate, this small city along the coast of the Sea of Japan is a true hidden gem. What’s more, in addition to all of its points of appeal for the history buffs out there, Hagi is also known as one of Japan’s top kilns, with its amazing wares and spectacles to behold.
Finally, if you have a rental car, I also suggest that you check out Tsunoshima Bridge and the island it connects to the mainland. Officially the second longest archway of its kind in all of the country, Tsunoshima Bridge is one of the most frequently shared sights in Yamaguchi. Additionally, the island itself is also quite beautiful, with its many sub-tropical beaches that you can explore. Though these used to be closed due to boat traffic, visitors are now free to swim in Tsunoshima’s turquoise waters.
Until next time travelers…
