The mention of Japan’s twelve surviving original castles has come up a number of times now over the years. Given the repeated frequency, it’s high time that there finally be a standalone feature on this lasting dozen of medieval fortresses, in the same vein as this article on Japan’s historical periods. At the end of the day, the ability to link out to a reference like Wikipedia does come in quite handy, but why send readers elsewhere when they can stay on this domain?
For those who aren’t aware, know that as Japan entered modernity in the Meiji period (1868–1912), almost all of the country’s castles were dismantled at the behest of the new government. Of the ones that survived this imperial decree, a few more — like Hiroshima Castle — were lost to the ravages of World War II. Tragically, this means that only twelve of the former fortresses are still remaining.
In the following sections, there will be a brief overview of each of the twelve castles that survived to the modern era. To make things simple, these will be ordered from north to south, starting with Hirosaki Castle in Aomori and then going down to the ones in Shikoku. Given that they are a much more authentic visit than any of the modern, ferro-concrete reconstructions, visitors to Japan are highly encouraged to add any of these to their itineraries should they make sense logistically.
Hirosaki Castle
Let’s begin with Hirosaki Castle. Located in Aomori Prefecture’s — well, Hirosaki Castle Park — this is one of the less impressive of the twelve survivors. Though the grounds themselves are among the most breathtaking places on the planet during the spring, when the cherry blossoms are in full bloom, the original keep and a few other miscellaneous remnants are really all that remains of the castle. So, while it makes the list, the real draw here is the 2,500 cherry blossom trees that bloom in mid to late April.
For what it’s worth, know that Hirosaki Castle was originally completed by the Tsugaru clan in the year 1611. The main keep was a five-story tower protected by a number of fortified moats, corner turrets, and bridges that spanned an area of around 0.6 hectares. Sadly, the first incarnation of the main keep was struck by lightning in 1672, shortly after its completion, and was not rebuilt until 1810. The current incarnation is but a mere three-story spire — a shadow of its former predecessor.
While Hirosaki Castle isn’t the most impressive on this list in terms of samurai strongholds, it is the only remaining structure of its kind in the entire Tohoku region. So, while there are a number of other wonderful structures out there like Tsuruga Castle in Aizu-Wakamatsu, these are all reconstructions. As a result, Hirosaki Castle stands in a category of its own when it comes to originals in Tohoku. Should one ever find themselves in northern Japan during late spring, this is absolutely one to add to the bucket list.
Matsumoto Castle
As Hirosaki Castle is the only structure of its kind in Tohoku, the second site on the list longitudinally is the magnificent Matsumoto Castle up in Matsumoto City. Considered by many to be one of the best of the twelve, this stronghold is recognized by Japan’s Agency for Cultural Affairs as an important National Treasure. The site boasts a five-tiered, six-story main keep that dates from the tail end of the 16th century. The wooden interior provides an authentic experience unlike that found at many other castles rebuilt in ferro-concrete.
Matsumoto Castle is also a photographer’s dream. The grounds feature a wide moat, vermillion bridges, and the original stonework that forms the base of the fortress. When set against the backdrop of the Northern Alps, the scene becomes a spectacle that will stay with visitors for weeks. It’s truly a place where the history of the samurai who once served there can be felt in the very air while meandering about the expansive grounds.
Be sure not to skip the Nakamachi District located just outside Matsumoto Castle. This section of the city is home to well-preserved old buildings, including a number of warehouse-style structures with large white-painted walls designed to help ward off fire. Formerly the hub of merchant activity during the castle’s heyday, the district is now filled with small shops, restaurants, and ryokan.
Maruoka Castle
Next up on the list is Maruoka Castle. Found in Fukui Prefecture, this spot was historically hailed as the so-called “Mist Castle” due to the heavy shroud of fog that often enveloped it. Like with the previous fortress in Tohoku, the grounds of this hidden gem of Hokuriku are covered with cherry blossoms. When coupled with the paper lanterns that illuminate the trees, this creates a spectacle that is truly a wonder to behold.
Now, technically speaking, Maruoka Castle did not entirely survive into the modern era. In 1948, a massive earthquake in Fukui Prefecture completely leveled the structure. However, the locals wanted to ensure that Maruoka Castle remained in its authentic state for future generations and faithfully reassembled the structure using all of its original materials. Seeing as it’s a contender for the title of oldest surviving stronghold it’s fortunate that Maruoka Castle can stick around for a little longer.
For those keen on visiting Maruoka Castle, know that it lies to the north of Fukui’s capital city. It’s easily accessible by a direct bus from Fukui Station and can be combined with a trip north to Awara Onsen and Tojinbo. Alternatively, there’s a rare bus that runs from Maruoka Castle to Eihei-ji, so if the timing works out, the pair make for a great day of adventuring in Fukui Prefecture.
Inuyama Castle
Initially constructed in 1537, Inuyama Castle is widely believed to be the oldest surviving stronghold in Japan. The grounds are located in Aichi Prefecture, perched atop a small hill overlooking the rushing rapids of the Kisogawa. Like the aforementioned Matsumoto Castle, Inuyama Castle is one of only five castles whose main keep has been designated an important National Treasure by the Agency for Cultural Affairs — a title it certainly deserves.
Unlike many of the other castles that survived both the Meiji government’s imperial order for dismantling and the ravages of World War II, Inuyama Castle actually saw action during Japan’s bloody civil war. The fort was the final obstacle the fiery warlord Oda Nobunaga had to overcome to solidify his dominion over his home province. After smashing the Imagawa clan at the Battle of Okehazama, Nobunaga set his sights on capturing the strategic stronghold of Inuyama Castle.
While Inuyama Castle is undoubtedly the main draw to this part of Aichi, it’s far from the only attraction in town. The surrounding area offers enough to keep visitors engaged for the better part of a day. Chief among these is the charming stretch that runs along the main approach to the fortress. Unlike many other former castle towns that have faded into obscurity, this one still retains a strong sense of its historical roots. Sanko Inari Shrine, located at the base of the castle, also adds both spiritual and visual appeal to any visit.
Hikone Castle
Essentially a defensive masterclass, Hikone Castle is one of the best of the twelve remaining samurai strongholds. Located to the northeast of Kyoto near the banks of Lake Biwa, Hikone Castle was the seat of power of the Ii clan — a family that was known for being extremely loyal to the Tokugawa shogunate. The main keep itself is rather small comparatively, but it is nestled atop an imposing hill that overlooks a critical valley where the important Nakasendo trade route funnels into a narrow choke point.
The layout of Hikone Castle is quite fascinating from a strategic standpoint. The main keep can only be accessed via a spiral ramp that leads to a single wooden bridge — an architectural feature that could be easily dismantled in the event of a siege. Adding to the fortress’s formidable defenses are several massive turrets strategically positioned to guard key entry points. With these elements in place, it’s easy to imagine just how difficult it would have been for invading forces to breach Hikone Castle during Japan’s feudal era.
As if Hikone Castle itself weren’t enough of a selling point, the site’s official mascot is also one of the cutest in all of Japan. Known as Hikonyan, this fantastically adorable feline is based on the Ii family that once ruled from Hikone Castle. When visiting, be sure to keep your eyes and ears peeled for announcements of Hikonyan’s next appearance. It’s a performance that will melt even the coldest of hearts while also leaving you in stitches.
Himeji Castle
While longtime readers of this blog will know about the existing preferential bias towards Hikone Castle, many people consider Himeji Castle to be the most magnificent medieval fortress in all of Japan. Located in the western parts of Hyogo Prefecture, this sprawling compound is considered both a National Treasure of Japan and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The site recently underwent extensive renovations and is set to be around for centuries more to come.
While a fort of some size has long stood on the site where Himeji Castle now resides, the current castle infrastructure dates from 1609. Seeing as it was only completed after the Battle of Sekigahara, Himeji Castle was never involved in any samurai conflicts. Still, it’s miraculous that it has survived as well as it has. Somehow, the structure has been spared by war, earthquakes, fires, and numerous natural disasters — and even shrugged off an incendiary bomb during World War II.
Altogether, the Himeji Castle complex comprises over eighty individual buildings spread across multiple baileys, all linked by a labyrinth of winding paths and corridors. This sprawling layout not only adds to the site’s visual impact but also showcases the architectural ingenuity behind its design. In the final analysis, the sheer scale of Himeji Castle makes it one of the most awe-inspiring structures in all of Japan — and the fact that it’s conveniently accessible via the Shinkansen only adds to its appeal.
Matsue Castle
Found in the city of Matsue, as the name suggests, Matsue Castle is nowhere near the stature of Himeji Castle. Still, it is one of only five castles in Japan whose main keeps have been designated as National Treasures by the Agency for Cultural Affairs. As such, if you happen to find yourself in the capital city of Shimane Prefecture, you’d be a fool not to pay the few hundred yen required to pop inside. From the upper echelons of the keep, you’ll be treated to epic views of Matsue’s iconic Lake Shinji.
One of the best ways to take in Matsue Castle and its surrounding attractions is actually by boat. Departing every 15–20 minutes from various points around the castle, these cruises follow the moat and narrow canals that make up the Horikawa. As you drift along the river, boatmen share fascinating tidbits of the area’s lesser-known history. While their commentary is typically in Japanese, the city has stepped up its game in recent years by offering multilingual audio guides for international visitors.
Also worth exploring is the Shiomi Nawate Samurai District, located just north of the Matsue Castle grounds. This 500-meter stretch runs parallel to the moat and is a visual treat that’s rife with samurai history. The side closest to the water is shaded by rows of stately pine trees, while the opposite side features a collection of traditional buildings. Among these are a preserved samurai residence, the former home of writer Lafcadio Hearn, and a small museum dedicated to his life and works.
Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle
The only surviving mountaintop castle left in Japan, Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle stands high atop a steep bluff. Located in Okayama Prefecture, it’s one of the oldest of Japan’s surviving castles and one of only a handful that was actually built during an active conflict in the latter years of Japan’s bloody civil war. The castle’s roots go all the way back to the 1200s, though the current structure dates from the late 16th century.
Even today, getting to Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle is no easy feat. Visitors must embark on a 20-minute hike to reach the main keep from the closest parking lot. Along the way, there are remnants of the ruined foundations from the former castle complex. Before arriving at the main keep, the trail winds through a series of successive enclosures, culminating in the innermost sanctums of Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle. As with many mountaintop strongholds, the main keep itself is modest in height, standing only two stories tall.
During the colder months — especially in November and December — Bitchu-Matsuyama Castle often appears to float above a sea of clouds in the early morning hours. From a nearby mountain, accessible only by car, there is a brilliant observation deck that offers a prime view of this rare spectacle. Just be aware that the phenomenon is highly dependent on weather conditions, so it’s wise to temper expectations.
Marugame Castle
Also known as Kameyama Castle, Marugame Castle is officially the smallest of the twelve original keeps that survived the merciless progression of time. Also a hilltop castle, Marugame Castle is strategically located atop some seriously steep stone walls. Sporting a commanding view of the ocean and the cityscape below, the fortress is perfectly poised to protect one of the narrowest parts of the Seto Inland Sea, thereby affording it control over a critical shipping lane.
From what we know, construction of Marugame Castle was originally started in 1597 by the same feudal lord who built another fortress in the nearby city of Takamatsu. Due to the one-castle-per-domain policy put in place by the Tokugawa shogunate, though, it was soon torn down just thirteen years after the work was completed. Luckily for the history buffs of today, Marugame Castle was later rebuilt in the 1660s after the domain was split into two. That said, only the original keep and a few castle gates remain these days.
Today, Marugame Castle sits as the centerpiece of Kameyama Park, a large public space in Marugame City that’s made out of the original grounds. Just note that getting to the keep will require you to climb up a steep road to reach the top of the hill. Like with many of the other spots on this list, the grounds of Marugame Castle are home to hundreds of cherry blossom trees — so expect a visual treat if you drop by in early spring.
Matsuyama Castle
Continuing on with the quadruplet of still-surviving strongholds on Shikoku, we have Matsuyama Castle. Located in the very heart of Matsuyama City, this mighty fortress is perched high atop a 132-meter-tall bluff. While construction of the site was only completed in 1628 — well after the years of samurai clan infighting had come to a close — it remains a masterclass in defense, much like its previously introduced cousin up in Hikone.
Unlike some of the other castles that are located on top of a mountain or hill, Matsuyama Castle is actually extremely easy to get to regardless of your fitness level. Thanks to the presence of both a cable car and a chair lift, making your way up to the upper reaches of Matsuyama Castle — where the main keep can be found — is actually quite simple. That said, you’ll still need to hoof it the final mile to the inner baileys, though it’s not that hard of a hike all things considered.
One of the intriguing things about Matsuyama Castle is that it’s one of only a few fortresses in Japan that boasts multiple wings. What’s more, the complex also has a secondary keep as well as multiple turrets, thereby giving Matsuyama Castle a much grander appearance than it might otherwise have — especially when seen from down below. Like with many other authentic and reconstructed castles, the interior houses some exhibits, and you can climb your way up to the top floor of the main keep.
Uwajima Castle
While Matsuyama Castle is indeed the crowning jewel of Ehime — at least as far as samurai-era fortifications are concerned — the prefecture is also home to Uwajima Castle. That’s right! For some strange reason, Ehime is the only place in all of Japan that has not one but two of the remaining originals. Located on the border of Kochi in the southern part of the prefecture, Uwajima Castle long served as the political and military center for the Date clan, who ruled the area for over 400 years.
According to the historical records, the small but atmospheric castle was built around the turn of the 17th century and was later refurbished. The fort is perched on a hill that was previously along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea. Due to the reclamation of land though, its position relative to the ocean has shifted further inland these days. Still, you can enjoy beautiful views of the mountains and sea from the top of the three-storied main keep.
Getting to Uwajima Castle is a bit of a pain. Assuming you’re already in Matsuyama City, you’ll need to take a 90-minute train ride from the JR Matsuyama Station down to Uwajima Station. From there, you’ll have a 10–15 minute walk to look forward to, as well as a sweaty hike up to where the keep is located. Honestly speaking, it’s really only worth the trip if you’re a completionist who is trying to make the rounds to all twelve original castles.
Kochi Castle
Finally, we have Kochi Castle, the fourth fortress on Japan’s smallest island of Shikoku. The site used to be the center of power for the Yamauchi clan. Unlike most other structures of this kind, the main keep of Kochi Castle was not only used for military purposes but also as a residence. Generally, the most strategically protected parts of a castle were reserved strictly for defense in the case of an attack, but in the case of Kochi Castle, the lords of the Yamauchi clan actually lived in it.
Unlike some of the older entries on this list, like Inuyama Castle, Kochi Castle’s current buildings date only from 1748. The stronghold was originally erected between 1601 and 1611 to protect the southern sections of Shikoku, but this initial infrastructure was lost to a catastrophic fire. Still, the existing structures exude a distinctly Edo-period (1603–1868) charm and pair beautifully with the picturesque backdrop of Kochi City and the expanse of the Pacific Ocean to the south.
Seeing as Kochi Castle is located smack dab in the middle of the city, getting there is really easy — at least if you’re already in Kochi City. All you need to do is take a quick 15-minute tram ride from Kochi Station. Alternatively, you could just walk, too, as the trip on foot from JR Kochi Station only takes a little longer at around 15 minutes.
Until next time travelers…
