Despite living there for most of my adult life, Tokyo can be overwhelming. While you can find pockets of peace scattered throughout the prefecture (yes, Tokyo is a prefecture), the urban chaos is something I often feel the need to escape. Luckily, this isn’t hard to do given the vast variety of hidden gems all over Japan. Today, we’re going to take a look at one such place — Matsuyama City. Officially the biggest urban center on the island of Shikoku, this compact city is a treasure trove of sightseeing spots.
Despite being the largest city on Shikoku, Matsuyama has a Goldilocks-like vibe to it. Though it is the Ehime prefectural capital, Matsuyama is neither too big nor too small. This “just right” size and slow pace of life make it perfect for exploring during your visit to Japan. What’s more, Matsuyama boasts a wide variety of allures that appeal to all sorts of demographics. There’s something for the history buffs and hot spring aficionados, as well as the die-hard foodies too.
Matsuyama City is most famous for being home to Dogo Onsen. Considered to be one of Japan’s oldest hot springs, this section of the city is located on Matsuyama’s northeastern outskirts and is home to the first public bathhouse in Japan to be registered as an Important Cultural Property. Known as Dogo Onsen Honkan, this facility’s main building is widely considered to be the inspiration for the iconic bathhouse in Miyazaki Hayao’s animated film Spirited Away.
Given that Matsuyama is located on Shikoku, the smallest of Japan’s four main islands, you’ll definitely want to plan a visit to the city as part of a longer trip throughout the Setouchi region. Whether you want to island-hop across the beautiful Seto Inland Sea or explore some of the other allures in Ehime Prefecture like Uwajima Castle, Matsuyama City is not a destination to be done alone. Instead, it’s a wonderful part of a longer journey through one of the most magical parts of Japan.
Towards the end of this article, I’ve provided some information about the towns of Uwajima, Ozu, and Uchiko, all located within the confines of Ehime Prefecture. Additionally, I’ve included some supplementary suggestions for other spots in the area with easy access from Matsuyama City, so definitely check them out if you’re considering a trip!
How to Get There
Let’s take a quick second to cover some key logistics. Simply put, Matsuyama is a lot easier to get to than other cities in the countryside. Basically, all you need to do is take a quick hour-and-a-half flight down to the island of Shikoku from Haneda International Airport to Matsuyama Airport, and you’re there. Both JAL and ANA operate several flights per day, but the demand for seats is quite high — meaning that the trip down can be pretty expensive, often topping 30,000 yen one way.
Personally — and this should come as no surprise to longtime readers of this blog — my preferred method is to head down by train. Not only is it far cheaper, costing only around 22,000 yen, but you also get to enjoy some amazing views of the Seto Inland Sea along the way. While I did the trip to and from Tokyo in one go (taking the bullet train first to Okayama and then transferring to the limited express Shiokaze that runs all the way to JR Matsuyama Station), people saner than I should probably avoid this.
Were I a traveler from overseas, I’d definitely look into making use of one of the many options for regional rail passes offered by JR West and JR Shikoku. Not only will these allow you to explore beyond the Matsuyama city confines more affordably, but you’ll also be able to add more of the Setouchi region as a whole to your itinerary. With so much to see and do in this magical part of Japan, you’d be silly not to tack on a bit more — whether that be on the Shikoku side or the Honshu side of Setouchi.
Once you’re actually in central Ehime Prefecture, where Matsuyama City is located, know that getting around is quite easy. Much of Matsuyama’s city center is serviced by a network of trams, all operated by Iyotetsu (as always, refer to a service like Jorudan for train schedules). That said, those who enjoy walking will be happy to know that Matsuyama is easily explorable on foot — meaning you’ll have both the convenience of the trams and the option to walk too.
Oh yeah — if you’re lucky and happen to be visiting on a weekend, be sure to keep your eyes peeled for the Botchan Train. Named after the novel Botchan by Natsume Soseki (which was set in Matsuyama City), this nostalgic steam train feels like it was ripped straight from the pages of the acclaimed author’s work. While the diesel-powered replica is usually parked on display outside of Dogo Onsen Station, Iyotetsu actually runs it in place of one of the trams on the weekends.
Dogo Onsen, One of Japan’s Oldest
By far, the biggest allure in Matsuyama City is Dogo Onsen — and more specifically, the main building of the public bath, Dogo Onsen Honkan. Considered an Important Cultural Property of Japan, this charismatic bathhouse was built in 1894 and is an intricate maze of stairways, passages, and rooms. As you’ll see when you visit, the interior is always bustling with activity as staff and guests scurry about. For fans of Spirited Away, it’s easy to see how this public bath served as inspiration.
Within Dogo Onsen Honkan, you’ll find a number of gender-separated hot spring baths to choose from. The main one is known as Kami-no-Yu (lit. “The Bath of the Gods”), whereas the smaller but pricier and more distinguished option is Tama-no-Yu (lit. “The Bath of the Soul”). For an additional fee, you can also access the large communal tatami rooms on the second floor, where you can rest after a long onsen soak.
Now, I need to take a second and say that the bathing experience at Dogo Onsen Honkan — at least as far as I’m concerned — was surprisingly mid. While I thoroughly enjoyed the historic building itself, the act of soaking in the public bath left a lot to be desired. Still, I’m glad I went, as the guided tour of the Yushinden — the part of Dogo Onsen Honkan that was constructed and set aside for the Imperial Family’s visit back in 1899 — was well worth it.
Nearby in Dogo Onsen, you’ll also find a few other shrines and temples that are worth checking out. The first of these is Ishite-ji. This temple is the most famous of its kind in Matsuyama City and is the 51st stop on the famed Shikoku pilgrimage. Additionally, there’s Isaniwa Shrine. Perched atop a daunting flight of stairs, this Shinto sanctuary features traditional Hachiman architectural style and consists of two main halls with interconnected roofs.
Accessing Dogo Onsen is really easy. The hot spring enclave is located to the east of the city center. All you need to do to reach it is take Iyotetsu’s tram to Dogo Onsen Station, the terminus of three of the tram lines. From there, Dogo Onsen Honkan and the other public bathhouses can be found at the end of a long shopping arcade. Be sure not to miss the historic Dogo Onsen Station building itself, which was originally erected in 1911 and now houses a Starbucks.
Explore Majestic Matsuyama Castle
In the very center of the city stands Matsuyama Castle, the other famous allure in Matsuyama. Perched high up on a 132-meter-tall bluff, this epic stronghold is the second of Matsuyama’s two main attractions. One of the twelve original castles in Japan that are not reconstructions, this magnificent fortress is definitely a must-visit for anyone coming to Matsuyama. Completed in 1628, the compound is a masterclass in defensive castle architecture and tower layout.
All things considered, Matsuyama Castle provides an excellent example of a feudal-era fortress. Its key components are well-guarded and only accessible via a number of easily defensible gates, including one with a secret secondary door designed for counterattacks. Unlike many other structures of its kind, Matsuyama Castle also includes a secondary keep and multiple turrets, giving it a grand appearance and making it especially fun to explore.
While you can traverse much of the upper echelons of Matsuyama Castle without paying a yen — and enjoy many panoramic views of the city and surrounding mountains — I highly suggest ponying up the fee to go inside the innermost areas where the main castle tower is located. Not only can you get up close and personal with one of the only dozen surviving strongholds in Japan, but you can also learn a lot about the castle town’s history through the museum-like displays inside.
One of the nice things about Matsuyama Castle is that you don’t have to hoof it up the hill. While I certainly did haul my own behind up, I later learned that there’s both a cable car and a chairlift to help those who don’t want to sweat their way to the top reach the inner areas of the castle. The one-way trip only costs a few hundred yen, and you’ll arrive at the top not smelling like you want to be alone. Note that the closest tram stop to the cable car and chairlift is Okaido Station.
Sunsets, a Ferris Wheel & Citrus Fruits
In addition to Dogo Onsen and the castle, there are a number of museums, shopping districts, and other attractions worth checking out while in the city. Below is an exhaustive list of potential add-ons to consider when planning your itinerary before flying out via Matsuyama Airport (or taking a train or ferry elsewhere).
- Ferris Wheel Kururin
Located atop the Iyotetsu Takashimaya department store, this colorful ferris wheel offers sweeping views over Matsuyama City and beyond. It’s a fun detour if you’ve got time to kill near Matsuyama-shi Station, but honestly, your time might be better spent chasing sunsets down by the sea. - The Local Meibutsu
The city of Matsuyama is famous for its delicious sea bream, pulled fresh from the waters of the Seto Inland Sea. While in town, you’ll definitely want to try some Botchan dango as well as the local mikan juice. Thanks to Ehime Prefecture’s mild climate and little rainfall, these citrus fruits grow sweet and juicy. - Bansuiso
An unexpected slice of France in central Matsuyama, Bansuiso is a classy Western-style villa built in 1922 by a descendant of the local feudal lords. You can stroll through its elegant halls, which look like they were plucked straight out of early 20th-century Europe. Entry will run you 300 yen. - The Saka-no-Ue-no-Kumo Museum
Even if you’ve never heard of the TV series Saka-no-Ue-no-Kumo, this museum is worth visiting for the architecture alone. Designed by Tadao Ando, it features exhibits on the novel, its characters, and historical Matsuyama — plus helpful English guides throughout. Entry is 400 yen. - Shikido
This small facility pays tribute to Masaoka Shiki, one of Matsuyama’s most famous literary sons. It recreates his old home and showcases artifacts like his desk, with a preserved Botchan steam tram right next door. You’ll find it just outside of Matsuyama-shi Station (sometimes rendered in English as “Matsuyama City Station”). - Shiki Memorial Museum
A more comprehensive take on the life and legacy of Masaoka Shiki, this museum digs deep into his poetry, personal effects, and ties to Botchan. Bonus: there’s plenty of English signage, making it super accessible for international visitors. Entry will set you back 400 yen. - Ehime Prefectural Museum of Art
If you need a break from temples and castles, this modern museum has a solid collection of both local and European artwork. Expect everything from Nihonga to posters and rotating exhibitions with a wide range of themes. Admission is around 300 yen.
Personally, I’d skip these and instead take JR Shikoku’s Yosan Line down to Shimonada Station. Pictured above at the opening of this section, this sleepy little stop is the closest train station to the sea in all of Japan. With unobstructed views of the beautiful Seto Inland Sea, it’s an incredible spot to catch the sunset!
Side Trips to Uwajima, Ozu & Uchiko
For most people, a full day of exploring Matsuyama City should be enough to see both Dogo Onsen and Matsuyama Castle. Though I suggest arriving the evening before so you have a full day to meander about, you can hit most of Matsuyama’s main attractions within a day. While you’ll probably need to skip places like Shimonada Station, you should still be able to sneak in some sea bream for lunch or dinner .
So, what’s one to do on subsequent days? Well, lucky for you, there are a number of great day trips in the southern half of the prefecture. Most sane people would probably only want to do one of these, but I managed to fit all three into my schedule with some aggressive planning to complete this guide. That said, I wouldn’t really recommend it. So, without further ado, allow me to introduce Uwajima, Ozu, and Uchiko.
- Uwajima
This secluded coastal city can be found in southern Ehime Prefecture. Its primary claim to fame is that it’s home to another of Japan’s twelve remaining original castles. While nowhere near as impressive as Matsuyama’s, Uwajima Castle is still a valuable historical relic. Uwajima is also known as one of just nine places in Japan where you can watch traditional bullfighting. - Ozu
While Ozu doesn’t lay claim to an original medieval stronghold per se, it does have the distinction of being the first fortress in Japan to offer a full-on castle stay. That’s right — you can rent out Ozu Castle and have the entire place to yourself. Imagine waking up to misty mountain views in this quiet corner of Ehime. Beyond the castle, a portion of the old castle town still remains, and Ozu is also one of just three places in Japan known for cormorant fishing — a fitting activity for any temporary lord of the castle. - Uchiko
Situated about 40 kilometers to southwest of Matsuyama, Uchiko is a charming little town that feels like a time capsule from 100 years ago. Once a hub for wax and paper production, its Kamihaga Residence dives into that rich industrial past. Be sure to stroll through Yokaichi Old Town’s preserved streets and, if you’ve got time, swing by Uchiko-za — a full-scale kabuki theater complete with trap-doors and a rotating stage.
If you had to press me for which one I’d pick, I’d suggest going to Uwajima Castle. After all, it’s one of the dozen remaining original medieval strongholds in Japan, and that added bit of authenticity really seals the deal for me. That said, if you happen to be a real baller and want a unique experience, a castle stay at Ozu Castle sounds incredible.
Other Nearby Attractions
Had I been writing this article years ago, my very first suggestion would have been to add Aoshima to your agenda. Known affectionately as Japan’s “Cat Island,” this small isle off the coast of Shikoku was once home to hundreds of adorable felines. Alas, the passage of time has not been kind to Aoshima. Once a bustling little fishing village, the island now has only five remaining residents. Since the entire human population is elderly — and all the cats have been neutered and are growing older — Aoshima just isn’t what it used to be.
While the end is nigh for this little Cat Island in Ehime, there are still plenty of other options to round out your Matsuyama itinerary. For example, if you head down south as far as Uwajima, you’re basically on the doorstep of Kochi Prefecture. That said, unless you have a rental car at your disposal, public transportation options for reaching the main points of interest in Kochi might be just a bit too few and far between to make this a worthwhile route.
If I were planning a route for someone, I’d actually suggest taking the Shiokaze limited express train back toward Okayama and then dipping into Kagawa Prefecture. You see, that train route takes you right past some incredibly photogenic spots like Takaya Shrine (pictured above) and Mt. Shiude — one of Japan’s best places to see cherry blossoms. Alternatively, you could hop off at Imabari and make your way to Onomichi via the Shimanami Kaido.
On the other hand, since you’re already right on the Seto Inland Sea, you could also take a ferry over to Suo Oshima or even all the way back to Hiroshima City. If you poke around Google Maps, you’ll see there are a ton of ferry routes departing from Matsuyama’s port to various destinations across western Japan. So rather than defaulting to Matsuyama Airport, consider mixing things up and traveling by sea instead!
Until next time travelers…
