Welcome back to another installment of Backyard Tourism. If this is your first time reading one of these articles, know that the goal of this ongoing series is to take places that no one knows about and show how storytelling and good marketing can bring them to life. Like every other Backyard Tourism article, my goal is not to say that you should definitely visit these obscure locales. Instead, I want to illustrate the fact that just about any part of Japan can have international appeal if it is done its due justice. Honestly speaking, I’ve now been traveling nonstop for the better part of a decade and have yet to come across anywhere that has disappointed me in Japan.
Anyway, today we are going to be taking a look at the island of Suooshima. Often rendered in English as “Suo Oshima” or “Suo-Oshima,” I’ll actually be opting to stick with Suo Oshima from here on out to stay consistent with the nomenclature precedent that I set before in my Osaki Kamishima article. Just know that all three of these renditions confusingly refer to the same island. At the end of the day, I wish some entity would standardize all these official names and how they get written in English. While the variance is minor to humans, they might as well all be different locations as far as technological overlords are concerned (I’m looking at you, Google).
So, what kind of place is Suo Oshima? Well, for starters, you ought to know that this rural part of Japan is one of the countless landmasses that can be found out on the Seto Inland Sea. Officially part of Yamaguchi Prefecture, I doubt that many foreign tourists have ever made it out to see the Suo Oshima island environment. While I totally get why one would want to skip Suo Oshima in favor of other more attraction-rich destinations in Setouchi, it’s a great way to truly get away from the hectic lives we all lead these days and experience the more laid-back lifestyle of Japanese people living on the Seto Inland Sea.
While you likely have never heard of Suo Oshima before, the island actually has an intertwined history with that of Hawaii. You see, back during the Edo Period (1603–1868), Suo Oshima was actually overpopulated. Due to the mountainous core of the goldfish-shaped island, residents had a hard time finding ample space to live. Thus, when Hawaii needed a large number of migrant workers to farm the sugarcane plantations, many Japanese people living on Suo Oshima opted to move. From 1885 to 1894, more than 4,000 people living on the island took advantage of the opportunity and moved to Hawaii. Thus, many of the Japanese now living in Hawaii originally have roots that harken back to Suo Oshima.
Now, for most of you out there, Suo Oshima is not the type of place that you’ll be tripping over yourselves to add to your next Japan itinerary. At the same time though, I hope that this article shows you just how deep the proverbial rabbit hole goes. In just the Seto Inland Sea alone, there are enough attractions on the many islands found there to keep you busy for a few months. If you’re willing to look for it, just about everywhere in Japan has something noteworthy enough to warrant a visit.
How to Get There
Given that Suo Oshima is the third largest island of its kind in the Seto Inland Sea, it should stand to reason that it is easier to get to than some of its other kin. Accessed via Oshima Bridge, Suo Oshima may very well be one of the simplest islands to reach in all of the Seto Inland Sea. Still, for most people, you’re going to want to have access to a rental car if you’re planning an outing to Suo Oshima. Simply put, many of the main points of interest on the isle are strewn all about, meaning that you’ll be hard pressed to visit them all without your own set of wheels at your disposal.
If you absolutely must make use of public transportation, know that you’ll first need to make your way over to Obatake Station in Yamaguchi Prefecture (as always, refer to Jorudan or a similar service to calculate departures). From there, you’ll need to take a local bus to wherever you’re going out on the island. Since these are far more infrequent than in the big city, you’re going to need to do your homework when it comes to planning routes. I’ll leave a link here to the most recent schedule but do note that it’s only in Japanese.
If you’re an outdoorsy and active type, one other way to explore Suo Oshima is to rent a bicycle. These can be had at Michi-no-Eki Sazanseto Towa and Green Stay Nagaura. Both of these locales are situated a ways away from the closest train station, meaning that you’re going to either need to bus over or have your own car. Unlike with most other Japanese train stations, there is nothing near Obatake Station on the mainland, meaning that this option is only really going to appeal to the diehard cyclists out there.
Lastly, I’d like to note that there is actually a ferry that goes from Matsuyama over in Ehime Prefecture to Suo Oshima. These pull into Ihota Port on the southern end of the island. While indeed a convenient way to travel from Shikoku, this route is also a popular addition for people looking to cycle more than just the Shimanami Kaido. If you’re interested in trying this extremely long route, know that the ferries from Matsuyama depart from Mitsuhama Port.
Suo Oshima Island Allures
Before diving too deep into the proverbial weeds, I’ll come out and say that Suo Oshima is the kind of place that primarily appeals to people who like to go on leisurely drives. While you can manage to get around the whole island via a number of various buses, it’s not going to be a fun trip, all things considered. When I visited in early 2023, it was with the Setouchi DMO staff. We were on a mission to ascertain how plausible the island was for inbound tourism. Ultimately, exceptional cyclists aside, we concluded that only those with rental cars ought to consider Suo Oshima.
Below, I am going to note some of the main points of interest on Suo Oshima that the island’s tourist information office is trying to push. As you’ll see if you click on any of the links to Google Maps, most of the fun is scattered all about the big island. As a result, you’re going to struggle to reach everywhere if you only rely on the bus.
- The Museum of Japanese Emigration to Hawaii
This facility opened in 1999 with the aim of passing on the history of immigration from Suo Oshima to Hawaii to future generations. Housed in a replica of a returnee’s residence, the Museum of Japanese Emigration to Hawaii showcases a blend of Japanese and Western architectural styles. The museum’s exhibits, primarily sourced from local families and residents who returned from Hawaii, include historical materials, old documents, and a data search corner, offering an in-depth look at the history of Hawaiian immigration. - Michi-no-Eki Sazanseto Towa
Alluded to above when discussing rental bikes, this roadside station is located around where the “tail” would start on the goldfish-like outline of Suo Oshima. Inside, you’ll find a host of vendors selling all sorts of local produce as well as a small cafe, a seafood restaurant, and a gift shop. Of course, you can also procure a bicycle here should you want to ride around the island. If you walk across the street, you’ll also find Kawai Sushi as well, should nothing at Michi-no-Eki Sazanseto Towa tickle your fancy. - Suo Oshima Saturday Hula
While I can’t give you a time and a date, it seems that there are regularly Hula dance performances on Saturday. These are held in honor of Suo Oshima’s sister island relationship with Kauai Island in Hawaii. Should you want to catch a show, be sure to have a Japanese speaker in your group do some digging before you head out! - Suo Oshima’s Beaches
My inspection with my friends from Setouchi DMO happened in January, so I sadly needed to pass on getting a bikini tan line, but it’s worth noting that Suo Oshima has a lot of beaches that appear to be top-notch. From what I can gather looking around on Google Map, the one at Katazoegahama Seaside Park is probably your best bet.
Finally, know that Suo Oshima is also home to an eclectic island resort hotel collection. For the sports enthusiasts out there, the previously noted Green Stay Nagaura has all you could ask for and more. Alternatively, those seeking something a little bit more luxurious can also opt to stay at Sunshine Sazanseto. Located right on Katazoegahama Beach, these upscale accommodations are quite popular with the people of Yamaguchi Prefecture during the summer vacation period.
The Seto Inland Sea Alps
One thing that the squad from Setouchi DMO and I wanted to confirm on Suo Oshima was whether or not it was feasible to bike up one of the island’s mountains. What mountain, you ask? Well, Suo Oshima is actually home to a series of peaks that are collectively called the “Seto Inland Sea’s Alps” by some. Comprised of Mt. Monju, Mt. Kano, Mt. Genmeizan, and Mt. Dake, the heights of this mountain quadruplet are nearly 700 meters tall.
Long story short, while one could indeed cycle up the region’s “Alps,” it’s not recommended to do so. Instead, most people take their car up to the parking lot at Monju-do and hoof it from there but you can drive all the way up too. Up on the ridgeline, you’ll be able to enjoy some truly fantastical views of Suo Oshima and the Seto Inland Sea’s many islands. Additionally, there are also remnants of structures used during World War II by the Japanese military for the history buffs out there too.
While Mt. Monju is the highest of the four mountains, you’ll definitely not want to overlook the observation deck on the crag nearest to Oshima Bridge. Known as the Iinoyama Observatory, this lookout affords a great vantage point for viewing the power of the Seto Inland Sea’s tides. Boasting the biggest differential between the highest and lowest tide levels in the world, you can usually catch a ship struggling to fight the current from the Iinoyama Observatory.
Other Nearby Attractions
While Suo Oshima is indeed a great spot, you shouldn’t just stop there. Luckily, there are a ton of amazing attractions nearby for you to explore. For example, the castle town of Iwakuni is on the way back to Hiroshima. Here, you can see Kintaikyo, the amazing bridge pictured above, as well as the hilltop castle. Moreover, the ever-popular island of Miyajima is also close by, if you somehow haven’t been to this amazing but overcrowded isle yet.
Personally, I would like to try taking the ferry over to Matsuyama from Irota Port. While the aforementioned locations are all indeed wonderful, those venturing as far as Suo Oshima likely have already been to these places. Thus, it would be better to opt for something new and go check out Matsuyama. Here, you’ll find one of Japan’s twelve original castles as well as Dogo Onsen, the oldest hot spring in all of Japan.
Alternatively, since you’re already in Yamaguchi, you could also elect to head west to Shimonoseki. From there, you could go to Fukuoka or head up to Hagi and Motonosumi Inari Shrine. Either way, be sure that you sample some fugu (puffer fish) in Shimonoseki before going anywhere else.
Until next time travelers…
