In terms of inbound tourism, Shimane is already a prefecture well off the beaten path. Though it does attract some international visitors thanks to the presence of the venerable Izumo Taisha, Shimane’s charms are worlds away from the overcrowded streets of Kyoto. Essentially requiring a flight to access, the prefecture’s location on the far side of western Honshu ensures that only those looking for deep cultural experiences ever make it out to the region. Alas, seeing as this part of the country is rife with all sorts of historical allures, it’s a real travesty that more people don’t elect to explore Shimane.
As you’ll see if you check out my crazy in-depth guide to Shimane, I’ve already written a lot about the prefecture before. However, if you are considering visiting, I wanted to take a second to introduce you to Tamatsukuri Onsen, a place I only mentioned in passing in my prior work. Located on the southern side of Shimane’s Lake Shinji, this hot spring hamlet is one of the oldest of its kind in all of Japan. Likely founded during the dark ages of Japanese history for which we have no written records, the sources that we do have note that Tamatsukuri Onsen has been around since at least the year 733.
While many hot springs in Japan purport to have healing properties, the water of Tamatsukuri Onsen was actually verified in 2010 as having a higher proportion of skin-moisturizing ingredients than any other onsen in Japan. So, if you’re looking to beautify your skin, staying overnight at one of the many ryokan in Tamatsukuri Onsen and getting a proper soak or two might be just what the proverbial doctor ordered. After all, there is a reason that the high-quality waters of Tamatsukuri Onsen have earned themselves the nickname of “Bath of the Gods” since ancient times.
Though Tamatsukuri Onsen is indeed a great place to stay while you’re in Shimane Prefecture, a single night is more than sufficient for most travelers. When I visited recently as part of a government-sponsored monitor tour, it was for the purposes of trialing a longer itinerary in the hot spring town. As you’ll see in a second, there was certainly a niche appeal to be had for those interested in the culture of Izumo as well as for those looking for a wellness getaway. That said, three days in Tamatsukuri Onsen was a bit much for someone like myself who is always trying to be active.
Still, if you want to experience staying at an amazing ryokan and enjoy the rejuvenative waters, lodging in Tamatsukuri Onsen certainly beats out the alternative of a business hotel in Matsue. All in all, it’s a great complement for people who are already planning on coming down to Shimane Prefecture to see Izumo Taisha, Matsue Castle, or the Adachi Museum of Art. While half a week was a bit much for me, I can easily recommend that you, the reader, consider bathing in water meant for a god at Tamatsukuri Onsen.
How to Get There
Let’s pause for a second to talk about logistics. As hinted at above, Shimane Prefecture is a place that most people access via a flight to Izumo Airport or Yonago Airport. Though you can try to come down on the overnight train, the Sunrise Izumo, the vast majority of travelers are going to fly in. Once there, a rental car will probably be your most convenient option for getting around. At the same time though, Tamatsukuri Onsen and indeed all of Shimane can be done by public transportation only. In fact, seeing as I don’t drive, this is exactly what I did during my first visit to the prefecture.
Assuming that you’re planning on coming over from Matsue via train, know that you’ll want to make your way over to Tamatsukuri Onsen Station. From there, you can either stroll your way over on foot (a trip that will take you around 45 minutes) or take a bus over. Here, you’ll want to refer to a service like Jorudan to help calculate any and all departures as they are quite infrequent compared to Tokyo. Note that a taxi is also an option to get over to Tamatsukuri Onsen, but you may have trouble hailing one around Tamatsukuri Onsen Station.
Most of the action in Tamatsukuri Onsen is located along the Tamayu River. This stream runs through the center of the town and is lined on both sides by traditional Japanese ryokan. During the warmer seasons of the year (and even in winter really), you can often find yukata-clad guests walking up and down this central street at night. Here and there, you’ll also encounter a few free ashiyu foot baths to try. Some of these are even right down by the Tamayu River and make for a great way to warm up your body on a cool autumn evening — something I certainly took advantage of while answering some emails.
Options for Hot Springs
There are a fair number of options for accommodations in Tamatsukuri Onsen. That said, I am going to go out on a limb and basically demand that you stay at a ryokan called Chorakuen. Boasting a history of over 150 years, this facility is the ideal way to experience Tamatsukuri Onsen. While it isn’t exactly cheap, overnighting at Chorakuen is worth every single yen. The property has a number of different hot springs to choose from and even once hosted the emperor during his visit to Shimane. These days, the space produced specifically for his short stint in Tamatsukuri Onsen can be inspected by the ryokan’s guests.
Of course, no mention of Chorakuen would be complete without highlighting the Ryugu-no-Yu. Translating into English as “The Bath of the Dragon God’s Palace,” this massive outdoor hot spring is the largest of its kind in all of Japan. Welcoming both genders at once (don’t worry, unlike with some other onsens, you’ll be given a garment to cover), Ryugu-no-Yu spans an impressive 396 square meters, meaning that even when there are a lot of other bathers, you can find a soothing place to soak in relative silence.
Ryugu-no-Yu is situated directly adjacent to Chorakuen’s traditional Japanese gardens. These were made specifically for the ryokan and were not something that was inherited from a previous place. Regardless of the season, they add an enchanting beauty to Chorakuen and are free for all guests to check out at their leisure. What’s more, the space is visible from many of the rooms, meaning that the gardens add a great aesthetic to the already beautiful architecture. Whether as a prelude to enjoying the hot springs or afterward, be sure to check these out and don’t miss seeing where the emperor stayed!
Tamatsukuri Onsen’s Allures
By and large, the primary reason that one would go to Tamatsukuri Onsen in the first place is to bathe in the amazing hot spring water with its skin-improving properties. That said, as evidenced by the fact that I was able to eke out three days here, there is a fair bit of things to see and do in Tamatsukuri Onsen. Especially if you’re interested in the historical legacy of the town insofar as it pertains to the making of magatama, you’ll definitely want to check out some of the following. As always, I’ll leave a link to a Google Map so you can get your bearings…
- Tamatsukuriyu Shrine
This local shrine is as ancient as Tamatsukuri Onsen itself. In fact, you could also say that it and the history of the hot spring haven are irrevocably intertwined, as they likely grew up together. Though small, Tamatsukuriyu Shrine is noted in some of Japan’s most important historical texts and is integral to the making of magatama. Moreover, Tamatsukuriyu Shrine is also said to have the power to grant wishes, so keep an eye out for the Kanae-ishi while on the shrine grounds! - Seigan-ji
Situated next to Tamatsukuriyu Shrine, Seigan-ji is the local Buddhist temple in the area. Likely, it was once syncretically connected with its neighbor during the days of Shinbutsu Shugo. While on the grounds, be sure to check out the Oshiroi Jizo stone statue. Allegedly, it has the power to bestow beautiful skin to those who pray to it. - Izumo Tamatsukuri Museum
Found a bit up in the mountains and away from the town’s central areas, Izumo Tamatsukuri Museum is a small facility that chronicles Tamatsukuri Onsen’s storied connection to the magatama that are still produced here today. Unfortunately, much of the content is only understandable if you are an advanced Japanese speaker or have a guide with you. - Meno Park
This one is really only for the history nerds out there, but at Meno Park, you can see the physical evidence of Tamatsukuri Onsen’s long legacy of producing magatama. While you’ll have to keep your eyes peeled to see it, there is actually a cave for mining the meno (agate) that was recently uncovered. It’s a pretty cool way to see the past of this historic hot spring up close! - Tamayu River
At the risk of repeating myself, know that this river cuts through the center of Tamatsukuri Onsen. On either side, you’ll find many traditional inns and shops (including one where you can make your own magatama). Additionally, there are many free foot baths to be had here as well, and a couple of them are right down by the river.
Finally, note that the Tamayu River is lined with cherry blossom trees. While my recent visit to Tamatsukuri Onsen was the wrong season for seeing them, it seems that those of you who elect to go during the spring will be treated to the spectacular sight of the town and the Tamayu River when the trees start to blossom.
Other Nearby Attractions
When it comes to Shimane, there is A LOT that you could add on to the so-called “Bath of the Gods.” Sadly, were I to even begin to dive down that rabbit hole, this article would devolve into an endless rant. Still, I should at least leave you with a few suggestions to get you started. If you want more, my ultimate guide to Shimane Prefecture that I linked way back in the introductory paragraphs will tell you everything you could ever want to know about this amazing part of the country.
To get you started, know that Shimane’s capital city of Matsue is but a mere train, bus, or even taxi ride away from Tamatsukuri Onsen’s nearest station. Here, you’ll find the likes of Matsue Castle (one of Japan’s twelve surviving original castles) and the Shiomi Nawate Samurai District. In addition to these famous spots, you’ll also find the likes of Shinjiko Onsen in Matsue as well as Yomegashima, a small island out on Lake Shinji that is known for its stunning sunset views.
Lastly, you’d be silly to come to Shimane and not make a stop at Izumo Taisha. This eminent shrine is as old as time itself and is by far the most iconic attraction in the prefecture. Tamatsukuri Onsen’s access to Izumo Taisha is relatively convenient inasmuch as transportation in Shimane is considered, though you’ll definitely want to give yourself the better part of a day to savor what is widely considered to be Japan’s oldest and most storied shrine.
Until next time travelers…
