These days, Wakayama Prefecture really needs no introduction. Ever since the Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range were lauded with their UNESCO World Heritage status in 2004, tourists have been flocking to the likes of Mt. Koya (Koyasan) and the Kumano Kodo. In fact, these days, overseas guests represent more than half of the number of occupants staying at the shukubo pilgrim lodgings on Mt. Koya. While there are still options for unmodified authenticity in Wakayama, the prefecture is slowly creeping towards the same kind of “cultural Disneyland” that Kyoto and Hiroshima have fallen victim to.
Despite all the tourists flocking to the solemn Buddhist bastion atop Mt. Koya, only a scant few ever stop at Wakayama City for anything more than a train transfer. Conveniently located only a few minutes south of Kansai International Airport, the capital city of the prefecture is actually a hidden treasure trove of all sorts of allures. Until recently, even I was unaware of all the amazing spots hidden away in this part of Japan before the Wakayama City Tourist Association invited me down for the weekend. As you’ll see in the coming sections, there’s a ton to see and do here.
The fact that Wakayama City isn’t well known is truly a travesty. You see, the minor metropolis was actually once home to one of the most impressive castles in all of Japan. Once the citadel of a cadet branch of the Tokugawa family, Wakayama Castle was once designated as a National Historic Site that could easily hold its own against the likes of Hyogo’s Himeji Castle and other places in Japan with original fortresses. Alas, the fates are cruel, and with just around a month left in World War II, Wakayama Castle was obliterated by the Americans in the bombing of Wakayama City.
Though the destruction of the original Wakayama Castle does mean that the city is now without its most potentially powerful allure, the locals have at least rebuilt the structure using modern methods. Thanks to this and the eclectic smorgasbord of attractions that can be found all around the perimeter of the downtown area, Wakayama City is a place that is still worth visiting. Whether as a stopover en route to Mt. Koya and the Kumano Kodo or as an easy add-on for those flying out of Kansai International Airport, Wakayama City really ought to be on your itinerary.
How to Get There
At the risk of repeating myself, allow me to take a quick break to say that Wakayama City is really easy to get to thanks to its convenient location south of Kansai International Airport. Since it’s essentially on the way to the airport as well as the Kumano Kodo, there are a lot of express trains heading down here from the Kansai region. Thus, getting to Wakayama from other major cities like Osaka is really easy. Of course, you’ll first need to be in this area, so those looking to explore Wakayama City will want to begin by making their way to Osaka.
Now, one thing about Wakayama that can confuse a lot of people is that it essentially has two “main” train stations. The first of these is Wakayama-shi Station, and it is directly connected to Namba Station via the Nankai Main Line. Those looking to get to Wakayama City by a JR train and milk their rail pass for all it’s worth will instead want to use Wakayama Station. Unfortunately, both options are located on the edges of Wakayama’s central urban area. Thus, you’re either going to need to bus around the city or do a lot of walking while in town.
For most travelers who also want to explore Osaka, heading to Wakayama-shi Station via the Nankai Main Line from Namba Station will most likely be the more sound option. However, if you are looking to skip Osaka entirely and just want to make a beeline for Wakayama, you should instead take one of the Kuroshio Limited Express trains from Shin-Osaka Station. These run all the way down to where the Kumano Sanzan is located in southern Wakayama Prefecture but will make a quick stop at Wakayama Station en route to Kii-Katsuura.
While Wakayama City is pretty simple to get to (at least inasmuch as the destinations that I feature on this blog go), intracity access is far from fantastic. In essence, many of the interesting shrines and temples are located on the perimeter of the region. Because of this, you’ll need to bite the bullet and make extensive use of the buses. Thankfully though, with the help of a service like Google Maps, this isn’t as hard as it might sound. Be sure to pick up a one-day, all-you-can-ride pass at the station though!
Wakayama Castle
When I visited Wakayama City, it was actually for a monitor tour that was being run by the local government. However, I was so impressed with the place that I knew I needed to extend my stay and see more of the municipality. From here on out, I’ll introduce (in descending order) the famous allures in Wakayama City that I visited. While these are of course tailored to my own personal interests, I hope that they help you, the reader, figure out how to best plan your trip to Wakayama.
Let’s begin with what is perhaps Wakayama City’s most iconic structure, Wakayama Castle. Found in the heart of the downtown district, this mighty fort sits atop a small bluff, thereby giving it great views of well… everywhere! As you’ll see when you explore the grounds yourself, Wakayama Castle is truly massive. Its extraordinary size is a testament to the fact that it used to be a keep belonging to a branch of the Tokugawa family.
While it is indeed a tragedy that the original Wakayama Castle did not survive the final days of World War II, the reconstruction is still impressive. Moreover, the Japanese stone walls are still the same ones that have been used for centuries and can help give you a sense of its former grandeur. As is the case with other places like Osaka Castle that have been turned into a museum, visitors to Wakayama Castle will find a number of artifacts that chronicle the fortress’s history inside the main keep.
Luckily for the hardcore fans of history out there, there is one part of Wakayama Castle that survived the devastation wrought by the Americans. Known as the Okaguchi Gate, you’ll find this tenacious part of the medieval acropolis in the southeast section of Wakayama Castle. It’s pretty easy to miss as the workers did an amazing job with the ferroconcrete reconstruction, so keep an eye out for the authentic woodwork.
Momijidani Garden
Technically, Momijidani Garden is actually part of the grounds of Wakayama Castle. That said, I felt that it needed its own section because well… I wanted to show off the extremely well-timed photo that I managed to snap above (while also filming a video, I might add). Anyway, Momijidani Garden in Japanese essentially means “Maple-tree Valley Garden” and is absolutely enchanting during the later months of autumn.
While there isn’t really much to do here other than marvel at the fall foliage, you’d be a fool to come all the way to the castle and not also check out Momijidani Garden. Just note that the space closes sharply at 5 PM, meaning that you won’t get to enjoy any evening illuminations. While the Wakayama Castle grounds are a public park and open throughout the night, Momijidani Garden shuts down with the sunset, so make sure you get there with enough time left.
Climb Up Kimii-dera
The first time that I thought I needed to check out Wakayama City was actually when I was coming back from the beautiful beaches of Shirahama after my impromptu misogi on the Ogumotori-goe. Considered to be the most challenging part of the Kumano Kodo, I clearly remember seeing the Kimii-dera temple complex from the train window as I hauled my broken body back to civilization. Ever since, I knew I had to come back to the prefecture to see what Wakayama City had to offer.
For what it’s worth, know that Kimii-dera is located at the southern edge of the central areas of Wakayama City. It can be accessed via bus or by train, thanks to the nearby presence of Kimii-dera Station. Allegedly dating back to the late 700s, the temple is famous for both its autumn colors as well as its cherry blossoms. Basically built into the hillside, visitors to Kimii-dera are going to need to drag themselves up a set of 231 steps to see its main hall.
There’s a lot to see on the grounds of Kimii-dera, and in the interest of keeping this lengthy exposé as short as I can, I won’t dive into too many details. Instead, I’ll encourage you to budget ample time to explore all that this quiet but amazing spot has to offer. One thing I will leave you with, though, is that you absolutely need to enter the Kannon-in. In addition to housing a massive statue of the Buddhist goddess of mercy, the structure also has a lookout with some amazing views of Wakayama City.
Kishu Toshogu Shrine
If the castle is the most well-known spot in Wakayama City, then Kishu Toshogu Shrine has to be its best hidden gem (Note: Kishu is the former name for Wakayama). Every bit as impressive as the more famous Toshogu Shrine up in Nikko, Kishu Toshogu Shrine is a testament to the amazing ability of Japan’s craftsmen. Dedicated to the shogun Tokugawa Ieyasu and the progenitor of the Kii branch of the Tokugawa family, this epically ornate sanctuary is known locally as the “Nikko of the Kansai region.”
Getting to Kishu Toshogu Shrine is a bit of a chore, but it can be done easily enough by anyone who can Google Map the buses. The sacred spot is situated near Mitarai Lake Park and is therefore too far from the central shopping streets to walk. The real challenge only begins once you’ve arrived at Kishu Toshogu Shrine. Just like with Kimii-dera, you’ll need to ascend many stone stairs to pay your respects to the powerful Tokugawa lords enshrined here (frankly, it’s not something I’d want to do in summer).
By the way, if you speak Japanese, I highly, highly, HIGHLY, recommend that you shell out a few hundred yen and take the guided tour. While I’ll leave a link here for those of you who don’t, know that you’ll get a much deeper experience of Kishu Toshogu Shrine if you listen to the lovely shrine maiden’s lecture about all of the intricate woodwork. Supposedly carved by Hidari Jingoro, the craftsman responsible for the Nikko Toshogu Shrine.
Note that those visiting in the late springtime should see if their trip lines up with the annual festival that takes place on the holiday closest to May 17th. Allegedly, the locals carry the mikoshi (a Japanese portable shrine) all the way down the many stone stairs. It looks to be quite the sight, though I can’t comment firsthand just yet. Maybe one day I’ll make it down for the celebration…
Wakaura Tenmangu Shrine
Neighboring Kishu Toshogu Shrine, Wakaura Tenmangu Shrine should be thought of as a pair along with the aforementioned architectural masterpiece. Seeing as it is built directly into the same hill, you’re going to need to double up on your stair climbing if you plan on dropping by Wakaura Tenmangu Shrine. Hey, no one said that traveling in Japan was going to be easy — it’s sites like this that remind you why so many people are skinny here in Japan.
According to the history books, Wakaura Tenmangu Shrine is an establishment that dates from the very early 1600s, and the faded look of much of the infrastructure suggests this to be the case. Like with all other Tenmangu Shrines in the country, Wakayama City’s is also dedicated to Sugawara-no-Michizane. An actual figure from the 9th century, this deity is known throughout Japan as the god of academia, and many school students come here to pray for success on their exams.
While you may not need to pass any upcoming tests, I still suggest that you plan to visit Wakaura Tenmangu Shrine after Kishu Toshogu Shrine. You’ll find it located here, on the left-hand side of Mitarai Lake Park. All in all, you should budget about an hour or so for the pair of shrines. During my stint in Wakayama City, I went to these two first then bused my way over to Kimii-dera.
Marina City & Kuroshio Ichiba
Thus far, I’ve featured a lot of shrines and temples, but from here on out, I’m going to switch and introduce Marina City. Home to the Kuroshio Ichiba seafood market and the Porto Europa theme park, this entertainment complex can be found out on Wakaura Bay on an artificial island. Though indeed a bit out of the way, you’d do well to visit this part of Wakayama City if you want to eat some extremely fresh and savory local seafood while in town.
Only completed relatively recently, Marina City is essentially a large ocean resort area that was built out in the bay. Completed in 1994, the space now is home to the Wakayama Marina City Yacht Club, the Wakayama Marina City Hotel, the Kuroshio Ichiba, the Kuroshio Onsen, and Porto Europa. Of the bunch, the fish market and the Europe-inspired Porto Europa theme park (which is actually run by MCA) are likely the spots of most interest to international tourists.
If you plan on visiting Marina City, know that you can access it from both Wakayama and Wakayama-shi Stations via bus. It’s a bit of a long ride, though, so be sure to expect to be on the bus for half an hour or so, all things considered. The trip from Wakayama-shi Station will set you back 550 yen, whereas the JR station will cost you a little bit less. For most people, this will be the southernmost point on your Wakayama City itinerary, so maybe plan on working your way back from here?
Oh yeah, and if you’re wondering what all these Wakayama references to the Kuroshio or “Black Tide” are about, know that this stream is a north-flowing, warm ocean current on the west side of the North Pacific Ocean basin. Apparently, it was named for the deep blue appearance of its waters. From what Wikipedia says, it is a “powerful western boundary current that transports warm equatorial water poleward and forms the western limb of the North Pacific Subtropical Gyre.”
Saikazaki Fishing Village
While one could say that Wakayama’s capital city is already a bit of an off-the-beaten-path destination as far as mainstream travel locales are concerned, there are even more hidden spots within the proverbial Russian Matryoshka doll. One such spot is the seaside fishing hamlet of Saikazaki. Previously cut off from much of the rest of the city until the modern era when tunnels made access easier, Saikazaki’s denizens have been hauling fresh catches from the bay for years untold.
As is with many other similar places in Japan, Saikazaki is slowly but surely sliding into oblivion. While the number of families living here in the days of yesteryear might have been in the hundreds, their numbers have now dwindled to a few dozen. Still, this quiet fishing village retains a lot of its charms from a bygone era. Since it’s also accessible by bus (see this map for reference), I highly recommend that you swing by just before sunset as the townscape is especially enchanting during golden hour.
Of course, seeing as it is a fishing village, know that you can also purchase the day’s catch of local seafood at one of Saikazaki’s markets. Just know that some days there are no fish to be had here when the weather is bad and the ships need to stay sheltered for safety. While exploring, consider also venturing down to the Former Bandoko-taiba Fort Site. This used to be an important lookout that guarded Wakaura Bay’s important entrance. It’s a cool way to see a tidbit of Japanese history up close!
Kishi Station’s Kitties
OK, so technically this one isn’t within the city limits, but seeing as you’ll need to transit at Wakayama to get here, I figured that I ought to toss it in anyway. On that note, it’s time for a story. Years ago, in a tranquil countryside village, a four-pawed stationmaster saved the failing Wakayama Electric Railway. The Japanese kitty Tama earned her title after habitually hanging around Kishi Station and was originally promoted as a tongue-in-cheek gesture, but in her first year alone, numbers were already up 10%.
The original Tama that saved this rural railway sadly passed away in 2015. When she did, she was publicly mourned by more than 3,000 people. Today, her replacement, Nitama (meaning Tama II), has taken over the position of Kishi Station’s stationmaster. Should you opt to visit, you can see the adorable Japanese calico cat lazily lounging in the window, as seen above. There is also a small cat-themed cafe within the building as well for you to get a quick snack.
In honor of Tama, the Wakayama Electric Railway really went out of their way to rebrand their entire operation in thanks for the feline’s fabulous intervention. These days, the trains that run to and from Nitama’s charge have all been fully decked out with Tama-inspired decorations. If you’re traveling with kids or as a couple, this is a great way to kill a few hours before heading on to somewhere else. Be sure to buy the all-you-can-ride pass to save a few hundred yen.
Other Nearby Attractions
This shouldn’t come as a surprise given all the spots that I’ve introduced thus far, but you’re going to want to book yourself a hotel room in the city if you don’t want to miss out on anywhere. When I visited Wakayama City in the autumn of 2023, I opted to stay at the local Dormy Inn, my go-to standard for business hotels. There are a number of other chains like APA though, in the sections between the two stations, so just pick whichever works for you and your budget.
Now, there are a number of places within Wakayama City that I actually missed, such as the Tomogashima Islands, Yosui-en Garden, and the Museum of Modern Art, Wakayama. While these are all indeed worth your time, I am of the mind that, at least exempting those on one of Kansai International Airport’s late night flights, anyone coming to Wakayama Prefecture wants to at least see the Kumano Sanzan or spend a night on Mt. Koya. Thus, I would urge you to invest your time there.
Finally, know that Wakayama City is also great for foodies out there. When I went in November 2023, it was actually for a pair of culinary monitor tours. In the first, we got the chance to make part of a Shojin Ryori meal at Guan Honten. Especially if you’re not going to Mt. Koya, this is a great way to sneak a bit of Buddhism into your itinerary. Alternatively, the second of the two tours took us to Kuroshio Ichiba and Saikazaki where we purchased ingredients for an epic Italian feast.
If either of these experiences sounds good to you, I’ll leave this link here for you to learn more. Sadly, the reservation pages are only in Japanese, meaning that most will need to resort to using Google Translate. If you can figure things out and overcome the language barrier though, either of these tours are bound to be a novel way to experience what Wakayama City has to offer.
Until next time travelers…
