When I started producing content many years ago, Kanazawa, the capital city of Ishikawa Prefecture, was still largely unknown to inbound tourists. While die-hard fans of Japan were likely aware, few first-timers had any real notion that such a place even existed. Alas, things have changed a lot in the past few years. Brought about by the surge in tourism that Japan saw up until the coronavirus pandemic, the “Mini Kyoto of the Hokuriku Area” is now just as overcrowded as its namesake.
Luckily, you don’t need to go far to find some peace and tranquility. Just 30 minutes to the south of Kanazawa, you’ll find Komatsu. Officially the second-largest city in Ishikawa Prefecture, Komatsu boasts a truly shocking amount of hidden allures. In fact, when I recently went on a visitation at the behest of the local government, I was shocked to learn that a full three days were nowhere near enough to see all the Komatsu city attractions. It’s truly a wonderful place for anyone looking to get off the beaten path.
Historically, Komatsu was part of Kaga Province and has long been known for being home to the sacred Nata-dera complex. Additionally, it housed the retirement castle of one of the Maeda lords. Even to this day, the city is also famed for its Kutani-yaki wares, a type of porcelain art native to the region. As if this weren’t enough, this part of Japan is also regarded for its gold leaf artisanal works as well as its fabric dyeing industry.
While I wouldn’t go so far as to recommend Komatsu outright to those of you who have never been to Japan before, it’s a great add-on to anyone planning on being in Kanazawa or Fukui Prefecture. Though I’ll be the first to admit that access could be a bit better once you’re actually in Komatsu, the city is the ultimate hidden gem. Rife with both history and culture, a trip to explore Komatsu is bound to add some much-needed authenticity to your Japan itinerary.
How to Get There
Despite being off most tourists’ radars, the trip to the Komatsu city area from Tokyo is actually not all that difficult. All you need to do is take a quick flight up from any major airport. At least as of this writing, both JAL and ANA offer domestic services to and from Komatsu Airport, meaning that you can make your way up to this part of Ishikawa Prefecture in around an hour or so. Additionally, you can actually make international connections to a few Asian countries too, so if you’re coming from the likes of Taipei, Seoul, or Shanghai, you’re in luck.
Those of you who want to milk your JR rail passes for all their worth can also make your way to Komatsu via train. There are basically two ways from which you can approach the city; you can either come up from Osaka and Kyoto via Maibara on a Shirasagi Limited Express, or you can take the bullet train down from Kanazawa. Presently, the powers that be are looking to extend the Hokuriku Shinkansen from Kanazawa Station all the way to Kyoto, meaning that it’s going to become easier and easier to get to Komatsu in the future.
In either case, the ease of getting to Komatsu is offset a bit by the difficulties in getting around. In the following section, I’ll detail some spots that are within walking distance of Komatsu Station. That said, you’re going to need to make it to some of the other locales via the meager Komatsu bus offerings that are available. If you can’t get yourself a rental car, making use of one of the share cycles might actually be your best bet for transportation. If you can, try visiting somewhere like Nata-dera first and then making your way back to the station via these bicycles.
Lastly, before moving on, allow me to take a moment to recommend some options for accommodations. For most of you, you’ll want to stay at Hoshi Ryokan. Registered in the Guinness World Records as one of the oldest hotels in the world, you’ll find this storied ryokan in Awazu Onsen. Alternatively, you could also do what I did and stay at Nata-dera’s mountain lodge, Ikumo. Perched high up in the mountain, the view from this facility puts most other hotels to shame (as can be seen by the image that opened this article).
Near the JR Komatsu Station
Many of Komatsu’s top attractions are located far away from any train stations. That said, there are a handful of spots that are within easy walking distance. For example, you’ll find the charming Hokkoku Street just a mere five minutes away from the station. Home to an eclectic collection of merchants and whatnot, this historic street is a great way to connect with the locals if you speak Japanese. While you’re there, be sure not to miss out on getting a peek at Komatsu’s tallest festival float!
Back on the far side of Komatsu Station, you’ll also encounter Komatsu-no-Mori. Pictured above, this space was opened to commemorate the 110th anniversary of the construction company Komatsu Ltd. The space was designed to help nurture children together with the local communities and teach more people about the group. It’s literally right outside of the station, so it’s a simple addition if this is your shtick.
Next up, know that Rojo Park is also worth a considering. Built from what was once the outermost portion of Komatsu Castle, the public space can be found right next to city hall. While you’ll no longer find any fortresses here, Rojo Park has been transformed into a traditional Japanese strolling garden that is situated around a pair of ponds with a waterfall in the center. While pleasant during any time of the year with its tea house and museums, Rojo Park is especially worth seeing during cherry blossom season.
Lastly, know that Komatsu Station is a great place unto itself. In addition to the normal restaurant collection that you’ll find at many major transportation hubs, Komatsu Station also has a great cafe for coffee drinks if you’re not yet feeling the need to eat some food. Additionally, you’ll also find a souvenir shop as well as a small space that curates local culture stuff. All in all, these are a great way to kill time while waiting for your next train.
Venerable Nata-dera
By far, Komatsu’s top claim to fame is Nata-dera. This ancient temple compound now belongs to the Shingon sect of Buddhism. Erected in reverence of Mt. Haku (Hakusan) way back in the year 717, Nata-dera is a must-visit should you ever make your way to Komatsu. The expansive grounds will easily take you an hour to explore and are absolutely enchanting during autumn. While wandering about, make sure that you pop into the Kondo Keo-den. This recently reconstructed building exhibits a massive statue of the Bodhisattva Kannon which, together with Mt. Haku, remains Nata-dera’s principal object of worship.
Deeper into Komatsu’s Nata-dera compound, you’ll come across a rocky cliffside with a pond garden at its base. Marred with stairs and small caves, this spiritual area is unfortunately not open for you to climb. Still, the solemn slate of rock has a spiritually impressive facade to it and is worth contemplating from afar. Just beyond this, you’ll also encounter the main hall which is built into the very same rock face, as can be seen above. Allegedly, in a vein similar to the Dewa Sanzan, entering the cave and then coming out the other side is said to be a pilgrimage of death and rebirth.
This might be something that already stands out to OG readers of this blog, but this sacred site in Ishikawa is an excellent example of Shinbutsu Shugo. For those not in the know, understand that Japan’s dual religions of Buddhism and Shinto used to be syncretically intertwined until the modern era. In keeping with its founder’s belief in the harmony between natural world and human life, Nata-dera is built directly into the nature on which it was created. The space still makes use of iconography from both faiths, making it exemplary of Shinbutsu Shugo’s long legacy.
While I could go on and on forever about how amazing Nata-dera is, I want to leave some of the allure left for your actual trip to Komatsu. Thus, I’m going to end this section by saying that the compound is rather easily accessible by bus. From what I can tell looking at Google Maps, the trip will only take you around 40 minutes or so. Seeing as there are rental bikes at the temple, you might want to consider starting your day here, getting yourself a set of wheels and then cycling to some of the upcoming spots.
Yunokuni-no-Mori
Calling all fans of hands-on stuff. If you like participating in the production of traditional Japanese crafts, then Yunokuni-no-Mori is just the spot for you. Essentially a theme park that is spread out over a wide swath of forest, the entire infrastructure of this awesome site consists of traditional Japanese domiciles. Within each of the various homes, a master of a particular craft awaits to aid you in creating your own work of art. Especially for those with kids, Yunokuni-no-Mori is just what the doctor ordered.
In addition to presenting the opportunity to try your hand at over a dozen different disciplines, Yunokuni-no-Mori also boasts some truly impressive spots for the Gram. The umbrella-covered lane shown above is one of these, but there is also a heart-shaped window elsewhere in the park that is also perfect Instagram fodder. Moreover, there are also a few restaurants at Yunokuni-no-Mori too where you can grab a bite to eat for lunch as well as a tea house if you prefer a quick drink instead.
Entry to Yunokuni-no-Mori will set you back a few hundred yen, but once you’re in, you’ll be free to stroll about the space for the day. That said, you’ll still need to pay an additional fee if you want to try your hand at any of the craft experiences on offer. As for access, Yunokuni-no-Mori is found near Awazu Onsen (where Hoshi Ryokan is located) and can be reached from Nata-dera’s closest bus stop in a matter of minutes.
Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine
Seeing as you’ve likely not heard of Komatsu before this article (at least in terms of the destination — the heavy machinery doesn’t count), you’ll probably be surprised to learn that it’s the setting of a famous story in Japanese theater that’s known all over the world. Adapted into both Noh and Kabuki, the basic premise of the tale is that Minamoto-no-Yoshitsune and his companion Benkei slipped past a checkpoint here that was erected by his now-shogun brother, Minamoto-no-Yoritomo. Even to this day, the tale from the 1100s continues to be retold in the likes of Tokyo’s Kabukiza Theater.
The best way to learn about the story of Minamoto-no-Yoshitsune is to visit Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine. Located near Komatsu Airport down by the Sea of Japan, this Shinto sanctuary actually predates the bulwark set up to stop Minamoto-no-Yoshitsune from escaping. In the centuries since, Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine has been intrinsically linked with the story. Nowadays, those who drop by the shrine will be greeted with all sorts of homages, such as the statue of the warrior monk Benkei seen above.
From what historians can gather, the checkpoint was actually quite close to where Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine is located. Thanks to its proximity to the site of Minamoto-no-Yoshitsune’s epic escape, Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine has become associated with the deity of overcoming obstacles. While most people’s woes are nowhere near as daunting as those that the fugitive brother of the newly appointed shogun faced, many Japanese people still pray at Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine for help in overcoming whatever happens to be in their way.
Should you ever find yourself at Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine, you should also ensure that you have an hour or so to go to the Kanjincho Museum. Named after the most famous Kabuki rendition of Minamoto-no-Yoshitsune’s trials, this facility can be found just a few minutes away from Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine on foot and recounts the entire story in great detail. Moreover, you can also check out some of the costumes used in Kabuki performances and get a sense of what it would be like to see Kanjincho in person.
As much as I’d like to go into detail about the entire storyline for what happened at the barrier set up near where Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine is, the recounting could be a blog post in and of itself if I really went into the minutia. Thus, I’ll conclude this section by saying that you really ought to make a point to visit the Kanjincho Museum after saying a quick prayer at Komatsu’s Ataka Sumiyoshi Shrine…
Hiyo Koke-no-Sato
I know I am skipping around a bit here, but if you have a rental car or bicycle and are going to Yunokuni-no-Mori, then I absolutely insist that you swing by Koke-no-Sato. Situated a little deeper into the mountains of Ishikawa Prefecture than where Awazu Onsen is, Komatsu’s Koke-no-Sato is a little slice of heaven on earth. Essentially a small hamlet, the entire village rests on a verdant moss garden that has been cultivated by the residents for multiple generations.
Unlike with many “tourism attractions,” Koke-no-Sato is a place that actually belongs to the locals and has been graciously shared with the public. Thus, you need to mind your manners while enjoying its luscious green grounds. Truth be told, Koke-no-Sato essentially is a collective common space in the middle of all of the villagers’ houses. Thus, you’re basically strolling through someone’s backyard. While you’re indeed welcome, it’s something to keep in mind when exploring this part of Komatsu.
All things considered, it’s really a miracle that a spot as special as Koke-no-Sato exists. It’s only thanks to the thirty-some-odd villagers’ commitment to continually overcome the elements that keeps this place in any semblance of “working condition” for visitors like myself. To ensure that they can keep Koke-no-Sato around for generations to come, be sure to donate a few hundred yen at the unmanned entrance to the space. It’s not so obvious to speakers of other languages, so keep an eye out for it.
Finally, I have a bit of a request to convey to you on behalf of the villagers of Koke-no-Sato; if you’re going to drop by in a large group, please ensure that you have someone call in advance. Simply put, this isn’t the kind of locale that can handle a whole troupe of tourists descending upon it all of a sudden. Seeing as this does indeed happen from time to time, it needs to be stated here for the record. Honestly, it saddens me a bit that such a thing even needs to be said but…
Other Nearby Attractions
This is that part of the article where things devolve into an endless barrage of other spots that you could visit while in Komatsu. For all but the most intrepid adventurers out there, the locations that I am going to feature from here on out are going to be the kind that are “nice” but otherwise too inconveniently situated to really be practical. That said, if you have a rental car and like diving deep into local regions, these are just the types of spots that you ought to see.
Let’s begin with the Hanibe Caves. Essentially an old quarry, the site was adopted by an artist decades ago and has been transformed into an unforgettable experience. The locale is said to depict a descent into the Buddhist underworld that begins metaphorically in this world and then ends in the next. Along the way, you’ll encounter statues ranging the gamut from menacing demons and sinners to benevolent Buddhas. Entry will run you 800 yen, but know that access to the Hanibe Caves is a bit of a problem for those without a rental car.
Moving on, know that no feature on this part of Ishikawa Prefecture would be complete without introducing some Kutani-yaki recommendations. When I was in Komatsu, I went to the lovely Kinzangama Kiln. The current generation of craftsmen here are looking to redefine what Kutani-yaki means for the modern era and are always attempting to push the limits of the art form. If you make a reservation, you can enter into their workspace and even also try your hand at Kutani-yaki under a master craftsman. Alternatively, you can also opt for taking a tour of Miyayoshi Kutani Porcelain Maker’s factory too.
If you prefer to drink out of your Kutani-yaki rather than make it yourself, you’ll want to book a sake tasting experience at the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute. More than just another brewery, this establishment is akin to a research center dedicated to the production of ever more delicious sake. Originally created by Noguchi Naohiko, Japan’s so-called “God of Sake,” this place needs to be on your itinerary if you find sake production even remotely interesting. Just be sure to eat lunch before as the morsels above are all you get for food.
Lastly, know that if you’re going to go all the way out into the boonies of Komatsu for the Noguchi Naohiko Sake Institute, you’re going to also want to explore some of the Kanagaso area. This part of the city houses an important quarry site from which Komatsu’s iconic Kanagaso stone was taken. Rich with minerals, this Japanese stone has a golden glow to it and is one of the prides and joys of the city of Komatsu. Be sure not to miss the stone stair artwork by Scottish artist Julie Brook when exploring this part of Komatsu!
Until next time travelers…
