Welcome back to yet another installment of my in-depth area guides for Japan’s hidden gems. In today’s article, we’ll be taking a look at Fukui Prefecture. Lovingly referred to as “Dinosaur Country” by members of the expat community (more on that later), this rural region rarely pops up on the radars of overseas tourists. Seeing as the prefecture is home to some of the most serene Japanese Zen Buddhism temples, I’m of the mindset that this really needs to change. While Fukui is definitely the type of destination that requires a major time commitment, the area more than delivers in many manners.
If this is the first you are hearing of Fukui, know that the prefecture resides along the Sea of Japan coast, just to the south of the ever-charming Kanazawa. A part of the historic Hokuriku region, Fukui is a prefecture that is equally rich in both history and nature. In the days of yore, Fukui used to be split into the domains of Wakasa and Echizen. Later, when Japan’s feudal era came to an end, the neighboring fragments were fused into Fukui. Today, this amalgamation is evidenced throughout the vast varieties of landscapes comprising the prefecture.
As alluded to above, Fukui is assuredly one of the more rural prefectures out there. In a stark contrast to the bustling megalopolises of Tokyo and Osaka, life in Fukui is more suited to a slower pace of travel. Trains and buses run infrequently and the attractions are quite dispersed. While the area may necessitate a few days to thoroughly explore, there are few prefectures claiming as many hidden gems as Fukui. What’s more, the sheer variety of allures guarantees you will never get bored having to spend a significant portion of your stay within the confines of a single locale.
By the way, this is going to be quite the lengthy exposé on all that Fukui has to offer. You’d do well to go grab a cup of joe or glass of your favorite wine now before continuing on. Don’t say I didn’t warn you…
How to Get There
Fukui is indeed a wonderful location and one that is very deserving of your adventures in Japan. Thankfully, getting there has become far simpler as of 2024 thanks to the extension of the Hokuriku Shinkansen beyond Kanazawa. If you’re coming from Tokyo, you can now take the bullet train directly to Fukui Station with no need to transfer along the way as you previously did. As you’ll see if you check Jorudan or a similar service, the ride from Tokyo clocks in at just about three hours, making Fukui a much more convenient side trip than it used to be prior to 2024.
While travel from Tokyo has become much easier, Hokuriku is actually easy to get to from the Kansai region too. From Kyoto, you can hop on one of the limited express trains that have a direct connection to Fukui. The trip takes a little over an hour and a half and is the best way to reach Fukui if you’re already exploring Kyoto, Osaka, or the surrounding area. Either way, you’ll find the prefecture is now far less isolated than in years past, which makes adding it to your itinerary much less of a hassle.
Speaking of Fukui Station, know that this major hub is where you’ll want to book your accommodations. While there’s not much to note within the city confines, this central focal point is well suited to accessing the prefecture. During my three-day stint in Fukui, I stayed at the local Dormy Inn. Conveniently located near the station and equipped with its own hot springs, this would be my recommendation for accommodations. Yet, don’t take my suggestion blindly as yours truly didn’t do much digging here, so do your own research.
By the way, given that Fukui happens to be located just to the south of Ishikawa Prefecture’s lovely Kanazawa, the two make for a great logistical combination. Honestly, the only downside is that doing so will require a commitment of approximately five to six days to roam about these destinations. While this pair in the Hokuriku region collectively feature a vast smorgasbord of attractions to choose from, the rather hefty time investment may be a deal breaker for some. If you want to wander away from the mainstream destinations though, this is definitely a course to consider.
Lastly, before diving into what’s on the table when it comes to the rest of Fukui, I have one final transportation tidbit for you. If you’re anything like me and have a penchant for being a completionist, know that those coming up from the Kansai region can easily cross Kehi Jingu (pictured above) off the list en route to Fukui. This jewel has roots that pre-date written history and is considered the chief shrine of the whole Hokuriku region. If you’re interested in a quick visit, you’ll want to make a pit stop at Tsuruga Station. Be sure to pay special attention to the torii gate, as it’s apparently one of the largest in Japan!
The Eihei-ji Temple Complex
Let’s kick things off with what I consider to be Fukui’s premiere destination, the quaint temple of Eihei-ji. This Zen Buddhism complex remains a very active monastery and is considered to be one of the head temples of the Soto sect. Found on the outskirts of Fukui’s capital city, Eihei-ji was originally erected by the eminent Buddhist scholar, Dogen. If you’re not familiar with the figure, know that Dogen is basically one of a handful of monks who were responsible for Zen’s importation to China from Japan.
All in all, Eihei-ji’s captivating grounds are home to over seventy structures. These are all interlinked to facilitate easy movement throughout the compound even when blanketed by the Hokuriku region’s copious snowfall. Visitors to Eihei-ji will first enter the temple via the main reception hall for lay people. Then, after listening to a short lecture about the temple in Japanese, you’ll be free to peruse the premises at your leisure. Note that you’ll want to be sure to snag one of the English pamphlets at the reception desk so that you can better comprehend the premises.
Of the many buildings that comprise Eihei-ji, the chief ones that you’ll want to keep an eye out for are the Butsuden (Buddha hall), the Hatto (the main lecture hall), the Jyoden (the founder’s hall where Dogen’s ashes are), and the massive Sanmon gate which dates from 1794. Note that since Eihei-ji is built onto the slope of a hill, you’re going to need to haul your behind up a significant number of steps. Should you be traveling with someone who has a mobility impairment, be sure to tell the monks as there are alternative options for barrier-free routes.
Lastly, know that the journey to Eihei-ji is surprisingly simple, provided that you can navigate finding the right bus. You see, from Fukui Station, there are hourly direct departures for Eihei-ji which will only cost you 720 yen. The total travel time should be no longer than around a half an hour. An additional option allows you to catch a bus at Eiheiji-guchi Station which entails a ten minute ride.
The Cliffs of Tojinbo
Located to the far north of Fukui, along the coast of the Sea of Japan, Tojinbo sits amongst a lengthy stretch of jagged cliffs. Forged from basalt rock formations, this coastline wonder has been carved out by eons of erosion. The resulting hexagonal and pentagonal precipices can be seen pictured above. Unique to Tojinbo and few other global locations, traversing this miracle of Mother Nature is well-worth the 50 minute train ride from Fukui.
If you do visit Tojinbo, please be extra careful not to end up in the ocean. Spectators are free to wander as far up the edge as their nerves will allow but keep in mind there are no guard railings or barriers to ensure your safety. The thirty meter drop down into the crashing waves below is sure to leave you impaired for life if it doesn’t outright kill you. In fact, Tojinbo gets its name from a monk who fell to his demise here long ago. Moreover, until it became a popular Pokemon Go spot in 2016, Tojinbo was frequented by those contemplating suicide.
The trip to Tojinbo from Fukui is a little under an hour. You’ll want to take the Echizen railway from Fukui Station to Mikuniminato Station. From there, you can either meander your way along the coast to Tojinbo on foot (about thirty minutes or so) or catch a bus. Either way, be sure to get the Echizen railway one-day pass as it’s cheaper than buying round trip tickets. Moreover, if you do Tojinbo and either of the following two locations in the same day, you can save even more money.
Note that there is a pretty hopping hot spring near Tojinbo named Awara Onsen. While there is not much to see in terms of your standard onsen town, this section of Fukui is home to many impressive ryokan. If you are willing to deal with a bit of inconvenience, this is a great way to slip in a stay at a traditional Japanese inn during your travels. Personally though, I would stay at Hoshi Ryokan, the world’s second-oldest hotel, over in Komatsu City rather than at Awara Onsen if I were seeking this kind of experience.
The Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum
And, at last, we come to everyone’s favorite reptilian creatures, the dinosaurs. By now, I’m sure you’re chomping at the bit to learn why the hell Fukui Prefecture is often referred to as “Dinosaur Country.” The long and the short of it is that an absurd number of fossils have been unearthed in this part of Japan over the past few decades. In fact, Fukui is home to some of the most significant paleontological finds in the country, especially around Katsuyama City. To celebrate this prehistoric bounty, the prefecture went and built the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum, a sprawling, world-class facility that lures in everyone from hardcore researchers to families looking for a fun day out. Whether you are a budding paleontologist or just someone who secretly wishes Jurassic Park was real, this spot is absolutely worth your time.
On my first trip the museum was unfortunately closed because of the pandemic, but I have since been able to visit a few times. The hype is real. The Dinosaur Museum spans four massive floors, each crammed with exhibits that will make your inner child (or actual child) lose their mind. Over forty full skeletons are on display, including several species dug up right here in Fukui like the Fukuiraptor and Fukuisaurus. Scattered throughout, you will also find life-sized animatronic dinosaurs, including a particularly menacing Tyrannosaurus Rex that springs to life to greet, or scare the living daylights out of, anyone stepping inside. It is one of those rare museums where the spectacle actually keeps pace with the science, and you can easily kill a few hours wandering from one jaw-dropping display to the next.
Beyond its permanent collection, the museum regularly mixes things up with rotating exhibitions and hands-on experiences, so there is usually something new to see even if you have been before. I have done the rounds here a few times for JNTO FAM trips over the years, and it never fails to impress. Between the interactive fossil displays, the mock excavation pits, and the quiz corners for kids (or overgrown kids in adult bodies like yours truly), the museum strikes a perfect balance between education and entertainment. It is no wonder it remains a favorite for both locals and travelers.
Now for the less exciting part, actually getting there. The Dinosaur Museum is not sitting on the Shinkansen line, so you will need to plan for a bit of a transfer. From Fukui Station, take the Echizen Railway Katsuyama Line out to Katsuyama City, which will set you back about an hour. If you plan to hit other stops along the way, like Heisen-ji Hakusan Shrine or Echizen Daibutsu, definitely snag the one-day pass to save a bit of cash. Once in Katsuyama, hop the dedicated shuttle bus, which takes about ten minutes, or grab a taxi if you are pressed for time. Either way, it is not that painful, and trust me, it is worth the detour.
For what is on offer, adult admission is a steal at roughly 1,000 yen. It is hard to imagine anyone walking away feeling shortchanged, unless of course they were secretly hoping to see a live T-Rex roaming around…
Heisen-ji Hakusan Shrine
As if the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum wasn’t already enough of a reason to venture out to Katsuyama, also know that a splattering of other fairytale-esque allures await. Of these, the most picturesque is the moss covered Heisen-ji Hakusan Shrine. Formally considered a temple, this syncretic site is a great example of the former intermingling of Buddhism and Shinto. Originally established over 1,300 years ago, Heisen-ji Hakusan Shrine holds a long history as being the starting point of a pilgrimage to the sacred Mt. Haku. Tragically, many of the location’s original buildings were burned during an uprising during the late 16th century.
In addition to Heisen-ji Hakusan Shrine, there are two other notable hidden gems in Katsuyama. The first of these is none other than the mammoth-sized Echizen Daibutsu. This colossal effigy is actually many meters taller than the statue at Nara’s Todai-ji. Honestly, the only reason that it isn’t more well known is because it was recently commissioned by an uber-successful businessman who grew up in the area. Note that this same individual also funded a reconstruction of Katsuyama Castle Museum too. This gargantuan facility was made to resemble the region’s former stronghold and houses an impressive array of artifacts.
The only downside to the above recommendations is that getting around Katsuyama is a bit tricky. Similar to reaching the Fukui Prefectural Dinosaur Museum, you’ll need to either taxi or navigate the van-sized buses. Alternatively, if you’re up for a good walk, you can actually opt to trudge Katsuyama the old fashioned way as I did. Just note that it will take a good minute to make it from attraction to attraction.
Echizen-Ono Castle
Not too far to the south of Katsuyama, you’ll find the magical medieval stronghold pictured here. Known as Echizen-Ono Castle, this citadel sits atop a small but easily defendable bluff. This hill resides in the middle of a valley basin that is surrounded by towering peaks. The result of this peculiar geography can be seen in the image of Echizen-Ono Castle embedded above. Explained succinctly, the cooler mist coagulates in the lowlands below and thereby allows the fortress the facade of floating in the sky. Trust me when I say that this spectacle will have you picking your jaw up from the floor.
Regrettably, there’s no such thing as a free lunch and this is especially true when it comes to dreamy vistas like this. To reach Echizen-Ono Castle, you’ll need to take the extremely infrequent JR Kuzuryu Line to Echizen-Ono Station. From there, the site is about a twenty minute walk. Note that to snag a vantage point like the one pictured above, you’ll need to actually view the fortification from elsewhere. If you go to Echizen-Ono Castle itself, you’ll only be able to see the magnificent mountains surrounding the basin. As a side note, the current building is actually a re-creation and houses a small museum.
The Ichijodani Asakura Clan Historic Ruins
One other attraction on the rural JR Kuzuryu Line is the Ichijodani Asakura Clan Historic Ruins. Formerly a bustling commercial center, this former castle town was completely razed by the fiery wrath of the infamous warlord, Oda Nobunaga. As a result of his attack in the year 1575, today little remains of the late Asakura clan’s seat of power. As tragic as their tale is though, the leftover rubble from Oda Nobunaga’s raid has perked the interest of scholars. Almost 400 years after his initial invasion, archaeologists began excavating the site in search of lost history.
After painstakingly surveying what wasn’t consumed by Oda Nobunaga’s rage, historians have been able to deduce what the Asakura clan’s 10,000 person town would have looked like. With this knowledge in hand, the government has transformed a small section of the valley into an outdoor museum. Inside this facility, all of the buildings lining a 200 meter-long stretch appear as if they originated during the Warring States period (1457–1615). What’s more, many of the buildings are open for visitors to peruse and are fully decked out with mannequins. If not for the fact that they don’t move, these figures do a great job of depicting everyday peasant life at the time.
In addition to the open museum area, you’ll also find a number of other draws strewn about the valley. For example, directly across from the aforementioned 200 meter-long strip, you’ll find the ruins of the former Asakura clan’s domain. While only the ornate entrance (pictured above) has been restored, visitors are welcome to explore the wreckage of this lordly domicile. Additionally, thanks to the exhaustive efforts of archaeologists, the remains of several gardens have also been unearthed. In recent years, these too have been refurbished and offer stunning views of the valley below.
The only real downside to the ruins of the Asakura clan’s bastion is that the trains are painfully infrequent. Though a visit combines quite well with Echizen-Ono Castle, one will need to be very vigilant of the train schedule. You’ll want to make a plan of attack on the prior day and get an early start. Be sure to make extensive use of the ever-helpful Jorudan or a similar service so that you don’t get stuck for hours with nothing to do at either location. There are only a few departures per day and missing one means that you’re going to be waiting several hours for the next lift.
Fukui Prefecture’s Maruoka Castle
This medieval fortress is one of twelve original remaining castles. While only the small keep has survived the years, Maruoka Castle definitely beckons the history buffs out there. Of the dozen, Maruoka Castle is considered to be one of the oldest structures. The castle’s keep dates from the early 1600s and sits atop a small elevated bluff. Typical of similar strongholds in Japan, Maruoka’s interior has been remodeled into a quasi-museum. If you manage to make the ascent up the steep stairs though, you’ll have a killer panoramic view of the surrounding plain.
Getting to the park where Maruoka Castle can be found is a bit of a challenge. You’ll need to catch a bus at Fukui Station bound for Honmaruoka. The trip should average around forty minutes or so. From the bus stop, you will need to hoof it a few minutes to where Maruoka Castle is located. Here’s a link to a Google Map just in case you need a reference. Note that the castle grounds are spectacular during mid-April when the hundreds of cherry trees on site reach full bloom.
By the way, there is a bus route that conveniently goes from Maruoka Castle to Eihei-ji. Though extremely infrequent, if you can nail the timing, it can be a godsend for improving the poor transit logistics of Fukui Prefecture. Tragically, the bus schedules change bi-annually so rather than risk giving grievously dated information, I’ll instead urge you to check with the staff handling ticketing at Maruoka Castle.
Other Nearby Attractions
While what I’ve covered thus far is enough to keep you busy for a few days, I have one final recommendation to round this one out. You see, no feature on Fukui would be complete without mentioning the seaside fishing town of Obama. Not to be confused with the former president of the United States of America, this sleepy village is located far west of the attractions I’ve noted thus far. To get there, you’ll transfer at Tsuruga Station to the JR Obama Line. As such, Obama actually doesn’t combine well with much else in Fukui Prefecture.
When I first wrote this article, I didn’t have the time to explore Obama just yet. In the years since though, I managed to make my way back to Obama and I must say that this little hamlet has a rich history to share. According to my research, Obama first developed as a seaport that connected Japan with the rest of the Asian continent. This legacy dates way back to a time when written records were not chronicled within Japan. As a result of the influx of traders, immigrants, and mainland wanderers, the area of Obama has been heavily influenced by Chinese culture.
Due to Obama’s prominent position as a bridge between Japan and the Asian continent, the town has garnered for itself the nickname of “Nara by the Sea.” Given the port sits as the closest natural harbor to the ancient capitals of Kyoto and Nara, Obama can actually be considered the eastern end of the Silk Road and the gateway to Japan. Over the centuries, more than 130 temples and other Buddhist monuments have been erected in the vicinity. Moreover, just as it has for over a millennium, the seaside town of Obama continues to provide Kyoto and the neighboring regions with the freshest seafood cuisine.
Though it certainly appears to require an additional time investment, Obama is just the type of place to appeal to readers of this blog. If you aren’t in a hurry and want to mix it up, I don’t think I can more highly recommend making a trek out to this important port. While it took a few years for me to finally make my way there, I can now definitely say that Obama will provide the type of authentic experiences that we fans of off the beaten path adventures truly crave.
Until next time travelers…
