Kamakura is not entirely a tourist trap like Asakusa, though it is certainly no stranger to the occasional foreign guest. After all, from 1185–1333 the city served as the nation’s functioning military capital, while the Kyoto area remained its spiritual center. Kamakura does a good job drawing both Japanese and foreign tourists to attractions like the gigantic Buddha statue at Kotoku-in. Despite the constant traffic, however, many of its lesser-known historical assets remain underappreciated, even by the locals.
Keeping with the tradition set by its predecessor, Kamakura sits in a valley that functions like a natural fortress. Thickly wooded hills surround it to the north, east, and west, while Sagami Bay guards the south, making entry into the ancient military capital a daunting task even on peaceful terms. Hidden here among the hilly forests, well outside the casual traveler’s view, is one of Kamakura’s best-kept secrets: the Mandarado Yagura.
The word yagura refers to cave-like tombs in Japanese, and these serve as the final resting places of both samurai and Buddhist monks. While yagura are common throughout Japan, the topography of the Kamakura Valley means there is an abnormally high concentration scattered across its hills. The Mandarado Yagura site in particular has more than any other region in Japan, housing over 160 of these haunting crevices.
How to Get There
Reaching the Mandarado Yagura is no simple task. The caves sit deep in the hills separating Kamakura from neighboring Zushi. Even if you get a ride all the way to the base of the site, there is still a long journey across some pretty treacherous terrain. Plan ahead and dress accordingly. You’ll be traversing ancient pathways once used by merchants and warriors alike to enter Kamakura.
Our first goal is the tiny inlet of Kotsubo. While you can take a bus to the start of the trail from any neighboring station, I highly recommend walking from Kamakura along the coast. It’s a beautiful walk and a great way to get your legs warmed up. The ocean breeze also makes it a refreshing place to stop for lunch.
Alternatively, you can speed up the trek by taking the adorable little Enoden Line to Yuigahama or Hase Stations. This also gives you time to hit some other spots such as Hase-dera along the way. Just make sure to stock up on water and have a meal before attempting the hike. Unlike Mt. Fuji, there are no vending machines waiting for you on this millennium-old trade route!
The Trek from Kotsubo
After departing Kotsubo, gradually make your way up into the mountains toward a U-shaped fork in the road. Take the right fork and continue until you reach a spot where cars exit one tunnel and then duck back into another. If you’ve done everything correctly, there should be a recycled-junk dealer nearby and an unassuming staircase winding up over the left-hand tunnel (pictured above). This is where the path to the Mandarado Yagura begins. If you get lost, just follow this map to the recycle shop…
Ascend the modern concrete staircase until you reach an overgrown path. This marks the start of the trail. From here on out, you’ll be leaving all signs of modernity behind and entering a world untouched for hundreds of years. The going can get a little rough, so mind your footing. If you take a fall here, it could be a while before anyone notices, and reception can be pretty poor if you need to make an emergency call.
The Nagoe Kiridoshi
Once you reach the actual path, you’ll be faced with a fork in the road. Taking a left leads directly to the Mandarado Yagura site. That said, I highly suggest exploring the pass through the rocks immediately on your right. This narrow slit is part of the historically important Nagoe Kiridoshi that connected Kamakura to the Miura Peninsula. To facilitate access into the ancient capital, the Kamakura shogunate had large natural gaps in the rocky slopes widened into passes called kiridoshi. In total, there are seven of these paths into Kamakura, with this one being the most famous.
Originally written with the Chinese characters meaning “difficult to pass,” the Nagoe Kiridoshi is very steep and less than 2 meters across. It is just barely wide enough for a single man on horseback to fit through. While taking in the crevice, try imagining what it would have been like to cross these hills as a merchant over 800 years ago with all your goods in tow, or, even more daunting, to attack a place like Kamakura as a soldier!
Exploring Kamakura’s Mandarado Yagura
While the right-side path continues all the way down into Zushi, our main goal for the day lies back in the other direction. After marveling at what it would have taken to dig these pathways during the Kamakura period (1185–1333) with nothing but handheld tools, it’s time to head back toward the fork in the road and the main attraction: the Mandarado Yagura!
Continue down the opposite branch and follow the trail through Kamakura’s thickly wooded hills. If you get confused about which direction to head, refer to the signpost at the fork. Depending on how outdoorsy you are, after about five minutes you should come across an unassuming, overgrown staircase on the right side (pictured above). This should take you up to the entrance of the Mandarado Yagura site.
It can be easy to miss, so check the location here if you feel that you missed the turn.
Unfortunately, the site was closed to the public in 1996, so you can’t officially get in! Previously, the Mandarado Yagura drew a fair number of visitors and became a National Important Historical Site. The years have taken their toll, however, and the tombs have fallen into disarray. This has left the site closed to the public for all but two months in late fall while a team works to repair it.
Much progress has been made since the site first closed, but there is still work to be done. Nevertheless, those visiting Japan during the period when the Mandarado Yagura are open should consider putting it on their agenda. The tombs offer an eerie experience you otherwise won’t get another chance to have during your travels in Japan.
The Mandarado Yagura site has the highest concentration of yagura in all of Japan, but tombs like these can be found throughout Kamakura’s hills. If you follow my suggestions below and spend the rest of the day on the trails, you’ll have plenty of chances to see more. These hills are littered with history, and even experts remain unaware of the meaning behind some locations.
For those who aren’t scared of being cursed for all eternity, there is an easy way to slip past the fence and get in for a peek. While I would never publicly condone this, there is a spot on the right-hand side of the gate that anyone should be able to scale. Just hop over the fence and you’re in…
Should you happen to channel your inner Lara Croft, I would be sure not to stay long. Though there are no security cameras, the occasional hiker passes by on the trail below. You don’t want anyone alerting the authorities, and the “I got lost” excuse isn’t going to cut it here!
Note: From what I can gather, it seems the Mandarado Yagura have now been partially reopened since my initial visit in 2016. As of this update, they are open on Sunday and Monday during the spring and fall, between 10 AM and 4 PM.
Kamakura’s Hiking Trails
After taking in the spookiness of the tombs, it’s time to head back down to the path and explore more of Kamakura’s hills. Continue along the ancient road into the old capital and you’ll soon reach another fork. One path will take you back toward Kamakura Station in short measure. The other leads deeper down the historical trail. If you’re itching to get back to civilization, continue straight on the path. Alternatively, if you’re like me and want to explore more lost history, be sure to veer upwards.
If you choose the upper path, you’ll be spending the better part of the day on these hiking trails. There’s a lot more to see than I’m going to cover in detail here, since I don’t want to spoil everything. That said, here are a few things to keep an eye out for on the trail…
- An ominously misplaced mansion that has been famous for inspiring ghost stories for over 30 years
- A quarry from the 14th and 15th century that was a popular sightseeing spot (pictured above)
- A hidden Buddhist temple that it has been all but forgotten by the world
- A observation deck with a 360 degree view of the surrounding ocean and mountains
There are several places to hop off the hiking trail should you get tired. Nevertheless I highly encourage you to continue on to Hokoku-ji for a real treat that we will cover more in the next section.
Heading Back to Kamakura
Continue along the path until you reach a small clearing with some picnic tables. From here on out, you’ll be heading back into the deep forest. If you need a break, now is a good time to take one while there’s somewhere to sit. The going gets pretty tough from here, and having your legs give out risks serious injury. Luckily, there are no forks or branches on the way to Hokoku-ji. It’s just you and a centuries-old path that has remained largely the same since the Kamakura period (1185–1333). Look at the “stairs” if you dare! They almost seem as if they have been worn into the very rock itself by countless footsteps!
After about 20 minutes on these hiking trails, you’ll come across the Buddha pictured above. The statue was carved directly into the hillside centuries ago. Be sure to look around this same area for some hidden yagura as well. It’s a much wilder vibe than the ones at the Mandarado Yagura, which have been far better maintained and taken care of. From here on out, it’s just a short trek down an extremely narrow path before you’re back in civilization.
Hokoku-ji’s Bamboo Forest
Before heading back to central Kamakura, however, I highly suggest you pop into Hokoku-ji. This is especially true for those of you visiting Japan. Unbeknownst to most travelers, Kamakura actually has its own bamboo grove that rivals the one in Arashiyama. If you’re not going to visit Kyoto, this should be a must. Since the temple is a good walk from the station, it’s also a great place to end the day’s journey.
Be sure to get the green tea ticket for 700 yen. With one, you can enjoy a hot cup of matcha while gazing lazily out at the bamboo forest. It’s a therapeutic experience after the ordeal you’ve gone through to get here. If you haven’t already had your fill, there’s also a beautifully preserved yagura on the far side of the bamboo forest.
Other Nearby Attractions
At this point, you can congratulate yourself! You have successfully entered the city via the ancient mountain pass from the Miura Peninsula. If there’s still time after you’ve finished your tea, there are a few more places nearby. Personally, I would hit up Tsurugaoka Hachimangu before heading back to the station. Alternatively, the tomb of the first shogun of the Kamakura shogunate, Minamoto Yoritomo, is also on the way back. Even if you’ve seen enough tombs for the day, it’s worth checking out. The small stupa stands as a solemn reminder that we are all equal in the grave.
If you want something a little less subterranean afterward, I’d point you toward Enoshima, a small tidal island just a short Enoden ride down the Shonan coast. It packs in Enoshima Shrine, dedicated to the goddess Benzaiten, the sea caves at Iwaya, and a lighthouse observation tower. After spending the day grubbing around in medieval tombs, a little salt air feels almost suspiciously civilized.
If you want to learn more about what’s on offer in Kamakura, be sure to check out my epic area guide. I’ve come up with several half-day modules that can be combined with a visit to the Mandarado Yagura.
Until next time travelers…
