Kyoto’s temples like Kiyomizu-dera are now so crowded and so commodified to eke out as much revenue from overseas tourists that they’ve lost all semblance of authenticity and are but a mere shade of their former culturally important selves. In a sense, they’ve become little more than sightseeing attractions instead of solemn bastions of Buddhism with pedigreed histories. When you consider how dangerously packed the main approach can get during peak times, I can’t imagine why anyone would want to go there anymore.
Luckily, there are many nearby spots like Mii-dera that have not yet fallen victim to overtourism. Located just slightly to the northeast of inner-city Kyoto, this mountainside temple complex is a far cry from the chaos that can be found in the popular parts of Higashiyama (Kyoto’s eastern temple district, home to places like Kiyomizu-dera). Despite its historical importance, Mii-dera still feels like the sort of place where the religious significance of the site has not been completely swallowed up by tourism.
Historically speaking, Mii-dera has an interesting origin tale. According to temple tradition, it was founded in the 7th century by the family of Prince Otomo following his defeat in the Jinshin War of 672. The site was later given the formal name Onjo-ji by Emperor Tenmu, though Mii-dera would eventually become the name by which the temple is far better known today. Centuries later, it also flourished as one of the most important centers of Tendai Buddhism in Japan under the influence of the monk Enchin.
Unlike many other similar sites where you can simply pop in, see the main hall, and call it a day, the grounds at Mii-dera are surprisingly vast. There is enough here to occupy the better part of half a day, especially once you factor in the cultural property displays, cafes, smaller halls, and scenic spots scattered throughout the complex. Rather than rushing through just to tick off the major sights, I would recommend taking your time. Mii-dera is the kind of place that rewards a slower pace, and you can easily spend that time simply wandering around.
What’s more, there are a lot of other allures on this side of Lake Biwa. Just here in Otsu City, you’ll find the likes of Mangetsu-ji’s Ukimido, Omi Jingu, and plenty of scenic spots along the lakeshore itself. Venture a little farther afield and even more of Shiga opens up, much of it with only a fraction of the crowds you’ll encounter across the mountains in Kyoto. All in all, Mii-dera and the surrounding attractions make for the perfect escape from Kyoto while not taking you too far away from the standard Golden Route.
How to Get There
Let’s pause for a second to cover some key logistics. To begin with, you’re likely going to need to make your way to Kyoto Station. Seeing as this is a Japan travel blog about getting off the beaten path, I am going to assume you are not a newbie explorer and can figure this much out on your own. As noted in the intro, Mii-dera is located a little to the northeast of Kyoto Station, out along the shores of Lake Biwa, so the journey to get there is not some major undertaking. In fact, it’s so easy to reach that it’s a wonder why the temple isn’t more well known.
Assuming that you’re starting at Kyoto Station, you’ll first want to hop on the JR Kosei Line and ride to Otsukyo Station. From there, walk over to the neighboring Keihan Otsukyo Station, transfer to the Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line, and get off at Mii-dera Station (check a service like Jorudan for the specifics on departures). The temple grounds of Mii-dera are about a 10-minute walk from Mii-dera Station. Just follow the Lake Biwa Canal, a historic engineering project completed in 1890, up toward the hills and you’ll eventually come to the entrance to the complex.
If you want to turn your visit to Mii-dera into something a little more ambitious, consider continuing north along the western side of Lake Biwa. Farther up this corridor, you’ll start brushing up against the historic Saba Kaido, a network of old trade routes that once connected Kyoto with the seaside town of Obama in Fukui Prefecture. You could easily build a multi-day adventure around this stretch of Japan, slowly working your way north through Shiga and into Wakasa. Alternatively, Mii-dera works just as well as a simple one-off side trip from Kyoto if that’s all your itinerary allows.
The Mii-dera Temple Complex
Once you make it through Mii-dera’s imposing Deva Gate, one of the first things you’ll notice is just how sprawling the grounds actually are. As the head temple of the Tendai Jimon sect, this is not some tiny neighborhood temple built around a single main hall. Instead, the precinct stretches across the wooded slopes of Mt. Nagara, with halls, gates, gardens, and other structures scattered throughout. The setting alone makes Mii-dera worth slowing down for, especially during autumn when the surrounding trees erupt into shades of red, orange, and yellow.
Naturally, one of the main places you’ll want to make your way toward is the Kondo, which serves as Mii-dera’s main hall. Nearby, you’ll also find the sacred spring known as the Akaiya, which tradition claims supplied water for the first baths of three ancient emperors and ultimately gave Mii-dera its popular name. Then there’s the famous Mii Evening Bell, celebrated for centuries for the beauty of its sound. Unlike plenty of historic bells that you’re only allowed to admire from behind a rope, visitors can actually pay to give this one a ring themselves.
From there, continue deeper into the temple grounds toward the Toin precinct and its photogenic three-storied pagoda. This part of Mii-dera is closely associated with Chisho Daishi Enchin, the monk who played an enormous role in the temple’s development as a center of Tendai Buddhism. The atmosphere here feels noticeably removed from the bustle down below, with old religious structures tucked between the trees as the path gradually works its way farther up the mountain. Don’t be afraid to wander a bit either, since plenty of the charm comes from the smaller buildings and little details you stumble across along the way.
Eventually, you’ll want to work your way up toward Kannondo, which is part of the famous Saigoku Kannon Pilgrimage and serves as its 14th stop. The climb also brings you to one of the best viewpoints within the Mii-dera complex. From the higher reaches of the precinct, you can look back across Otsu City toward the enormous expanse of Lake Biwa below. I won’t linger too much on the lake here since we’ll get to that shortly, but the panorama is another good reason not to treat Mii-dera like somewhere you simply pop into for an hour.
Finally, make sure you leave some time for the cultural property displays and the various cafes and rest spots scattered around the grounds. They’re worth visiting in their own right, but they’re also damn useful if the weather suddenly decides to turn on you. When I visited Mii-dera, the skies unexpectedly opened up and started absolutely pouring, so ducking inside for a while became part of the experience whether I had planned on it or not. Of course, some of what you’ll encounter around the complex is far more historically significant than these humble places to hide from the rain, which brings us neatly to…
National Treasures & Important Cultural Properties
For starters, the Kondo that I mentioned above is itself a National Treasure and one of Mii-dera’s most important surviving structures. The present building dates to 1599, when it was reconstructed under Nene, the wife of Toyotomi Hideyoshi, following a particularly rough chapter in the temple’s history. It’s an imposing main hall, but much of its significance comes from the traditional Tendai Buddhist layout preserved inside. You’ll also find a number of Buddhist statues enshrined throughout the freely accessible portions of the building.
Mii-dera also has two National Treasure guest halls, Kangaku-in and Kojo-in, though seeing them requires a little more planning. Neither is normally open to casual visitors, but the temple accepts advance applications for special admission when circumstances allow. Kangaku-in contains rooms once decorated with elaborate sliding-door paintings while Kojo-in preserves another celebrated group of Kano-school paintings designated as Important Cultural Properties. Even if you don’t arrange access, you’ll still encounter other protected structures around the precinct, including the three-storied pagoda and several buildings within the Toin area.
Thankfully, some of Mii-dera’s treasures are considerably easier to see. The cultural property storehouse displays the original sliding-door paintings from Kangaku-in, along with Buddhist statues and paintings connected with Chisho Daishi Enchin. Taken together, these works give you plenty to look at and make the storehouse worth slowing down for while exploring the broader temple complex. They also offer a nice change of pace from wandering between all of the buildings and structures outside. The storehouse is also an especially convenient place to spend some time if the weather decides to hit you with its worst.
Don’t Forget Lake Biwa
Of course, the Lake Biwa you can see from Mii-dera’s upper viewpoints is well worth exploring in its own right. As you might remember, one spot I mentioned earlier is Mangetsu-ji’s Ukimido, a small temple hall that appears to float out over the water near Katata. The current structure dates to 1937, but the peaceful setting has been admired for centuries and forms one of the traditional Eight Views of Omi. It’s a little farther north, but the tranquil lakeside scenery and unobstructed views across the water make the extra effort worthwhile.
Another nearby option is Omi Jingu, the striking vermilion shrine dedicated to Emperor Tenji, who moved Japan’s capital to Otsu during the 7th century. The shrine is especially famous today for its connection to competitive karuta, with major tournaments held on the grounds. There’s also a small clock museum tied to Emperor Tenji’s association with Japan’s first recorded water clock. Between the colorful architecture, broad approach, and dense surrounding forest, Omi Jingu has a calm, spacious atmosphere that makes it an easy addition if you’re already at Mii-dera.
Heading in the opposite direction, Ishiyama-dera is another excellent complement to Mii-dera and conveniently sits farther down the same Keihan Ishiyama Sakamoto Line. Founded in 747, the temple is built around enormous formations of wollastonite and is perhaps best known for its connection to Murasaki Shikibu. According to tradition, she received inspiration for The Tale of Genji while staying here. Ishiyama-dera also has National Treasure buildings of its own, making the two temples a natural pairing for a full day out.
Lastly, don’t spend all day beside Lake Biwa without actually getting out onto the water. From Otsu Port, you can board the Michigan, a paddle-style sightseeing boat that cruises around the southern portion of the lake. Depending on the sailing, trips generally last around an hour to 90 minutes and offer broad views of Otsu and the surrounding mountains. Seeing Japan’s largest lake from the water also gives you a much better sense of its sheer scale than simply looking at it from shore. As you can see if you look at Google Maps, it’s really quite massive!
Other Nearby Attractions
If you’re interested in the history of Mii-dera, one obvious next stop is Enryaku-ji on nearby Mt. Hiei. The two temples developed into rival branches of Tendai Buddhism and spent centuries locked in a bitter struggle for influence. Seeing both helps put that history into much better context, especially since Enryaku-ji feels very different despite being so close geographically. It also gives you another excuse to keep exploring the mountainous area between Kyoto and Lake Biwa instead of immediately heading back into the city after your visit.
Continue north along the western side of Lake Biwa and you’ll eventually reach Shirahige Shrine, best known for its torii gate standing out in the water and connection to longevity. The surrounding Takashima area is much quieter and more rural than Otsu, making it an easy place to slow things down for a while. If you’re visiting in autumn, you can also continue toward Makino and the famous Metasequoia Namiki, where hundreds of tall trees line a straight country road and turn brilliant shades of orange and gold later in the season.
Farther to the north in Shiga Prefecture, Chikubushima is another place worth working into a greater Lake Biwa itinerary. This small sacred island rises dramatically from the water and is home to several important religious structures, making it feel worlds apart from the busier southern shoreline around Otsu. Reaching it requires a ferry, but that journey is part of the appeal and gives you another chance to enjoy the lake’s scenery. The broader area around Lake Biwa is also one of my 60 trip anchors, so there are plenty of ways to turn a visit here into something more substantial.
Finally, you can push even farther north toward Obama in Fukui Prefecture, a seaside town historically connected with Kyoto through the Saba Kaido network. One worthwhile stop along the way is Kumagawa-juku, a former post town that once served travelers and merchants moving goods between the Sea of Japan and the old capital. At that point, what began as a simple side trip to Mii-dera can easily turn into a multi-day adventure through Shiga and Wakasa before looping back toward Kyoto on your own schedule.
Until next time travelers…
