Nagano Prefecture | Enjoy Nature, History & the Japanese Alps

Nagano Prefecture is a vast place with a healthy population of welcoming locals. Over the course of a full week or so, you can make the rounds to many of the places that the skiers and snowboarders mis in Nagano Prefecture.

Nowadays, Nagano Prefecture really needs no introduction. Whether it’s because of the epic Japow found on the slopes of ski resorts like Hakuba or those ever-popular snow monkeys at Snow Monkey Park, Nagano is now a place firmly on the beaten path for many repeat travelers to Japan. While it is not necessarily the kind of place that first-time tourists to Japan flock to, it is also no longer a secret or anything approaching a hidden gem. That said, there is still a lot to see in the prefecture that most tourists miss when coming to Nagano.

So that we’re all on the same page, let’s quickly start with a historical overview of Nagano. Thereafter, this article will delve into the various attractions that I suggest people plan their itineraries around. In the subsequent sections, I’ll cover various points of interest and recommend how to string them into a greater outing to Nagano. Given that it is one of the largest prefectures in Japan and is bifurcated by mountains, Nagano is not really the kind of place that you can tackle in its entirety in one go. As such, you need to pick and choose.

On that note, present-day Nagano Prefecture, or Nagano Ken in Japanese, roughly corresponds to what was historically known as Shinano Province. During the Edo period (1603–1868), it also became an important stretch of the Nakasendo, with 26 of the route’s 69 post towns located within the modern prefecture. Before the Tokugawa shogunate brought the long Warring States period (1467–1603) to a close, Shinano was frequently contested by rival warlords. Indeed, the plains of Kawanakajima were the stage for a series of legendary clashes between Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin, producing some of the fiercest samurai lore around.

In addition to its rich history, Nagano Prefecture is also blessed with bountiful nature. As a landlocked prefecture surrounded by the Japanese Alps and carved up by a seemingly endless succession of mountains, valleys, rivers, and forests, it is a place defined by rugged terrain and lush greenery. Several national parks protect portions of this landscape, while the geography has made Nagano one of Japan’s premier destinations for hiking, skiing, and other outdoor pursuits. It has also helped preserve many small towns, mountain villages, and stretches of countryside throughout the prefecture. Put simply, nature is not just one of Nagano’s attractions. It is the backdrop against which almost everything else unfolds.

While I can no longer say that Nagano is relatively unknown to foreign tourists thanks to popular attractions like its ski resorts and snow monkeys, what I can say is that the prefecture is home to a smorgasbord of attractions that go far beyond the usual tourism headlines. If you’re looking for a place with a vast variety of things to choose from on your next trip to Japan, definitely consider checking out the prefecture. Trust me when I say that you won’t be disappointed by what’s on offer here. No matter how many times I return to Nagano, I am always finding something new!

How to Get There

Let’s take a quick logistical break before looking at each of the places that I recommend considering in Nagano, because there are a lot of them. First and foremost, the question of how to get to the prefecture is the wrong one. The answer depends entirely on where you’re going within the prefecture. Nagano is vast and extremely mountainous, so many of its destinations function as distinct travel regions. Nagano City and Matsumoto, for example, sit in separate basins divided by the Chikuma Mountains. A direct limited express connects them in around 50 minutes, but they still work better as separate bases when planning a larger itinerary.

Generally, you can think of Nagano as having two main corridors when coming from Tokyo. The first follows the Hokuriku Shinkansen through Karuizawa and Ueda before continuing to Nagano City and Iiyama. The second follows the Chuo Line through the Suwa region and onward to Matsumoto aboard the Limited Express Azusa. Depending on which corridor you choose, some of the spots covered below will be easy to reach, while others will require a more complicated detour. In each of the upcoming sections, I’ll be sure to mention which of these two corridors makes the most sense for the place being introduced.

As always, the easiest way to figure out how to get where you’re going in Japan is to use a service like Jorudan. Simply plug in your destination, and it will calculate the best route to the station you need. That said, be mindful of which corridor you’re operating in rather than blindly accepting whatever route appears first. Some places can technically be reached from either side of the prefecture, but that does not mean both approaches are equally sensible. Nagano is usually best tackled by choosing one corridor, building an itinerary around it, and saving the other side for a separate outing.

Start with Nagano City

The city of Nagano is the capital of Nagano Prefecture and is home to places like Zenkoji Temple as well as Togakushi Shrine. It's a great place to base yourself when exploring the eastern half of the prefecture.

Let’s begin with the most logical place, Nagano City. The prefectural capital grew up around Zenko-ji, a sprawling Buddhist temple complex whose roots reach back to the seventh century. In fact, Zenko-ji is so old that it predates the schism of Japanese Buddhism into the various sects we know today, which is precisely why it still welcomes worshippers of every denomination without playing favorites. The city later had its moment on the world stage as host of the 1998 Winter Olympics and Paralympics, and the bones of those Games are scattered all over town. Venues such as the M-Wave, White Ring, Big Hat, and Olympic Stadium remain in active use, with the M-Wave pulling double duty as home to the Nagano Olympic Museum.

Beyond the temple itself, there is more than enough around Nagano City to justify a full day before you go charging off into the mountains. The long approach to Zenko-ji is lined with traditional shops, restaurants, and centuries-old pilgrim lodgings, and it rewards a slow amble rather than a beeline for the main hall. The Nagano Prefectural Art Museum sits right beside the temple grounds, while the former castle town of Matsushiro lies just south of the center. Matsushiro earns the detour for its castle ruins and surviving samurai residences alone, but the real curiosity is the Matsushiro Underground Imperial Headquarters, a vast warren of tunnels hacked into the hillsides during the dying months of World War II to hide the government and the Emperor for a last stand that thankfully never came.

Nagano City also preserves the legacy of the Battles of Kawanakajima, a series of five clashes between Takeda Shingen and Uesugi Kenshin during Japan’s century of bloody civil war. The fiercest was the fourth battle in 1561, which unfolded on the plains south of the modern city. Today, Hachimanbara Historical Park marks the battlefield and contains memorials to the fallen commanders, Hachiman Shrine, and a dramatic statue depicting Kenshin charging the seated Shingen, who blocks the blow with his war fan. The adjacent Nagano City Museum provides additional context on the campaign and the wider history of the region, making Kawanakajima an easy addition for anyone interested in Nagano’s samurai past.

Nagano City is the natural starting point for anyone exploring the Hokuriku Shinkansen corridor mentioned above. Direct bullet trains connect it with Tokyo while passing through Karuizawa and Ueda along the way, making all three destinations relatively easy to combine. Nagano City also provides onward access to places such as Togakushi, the Snow Monkey Park, and northern Nagano Prefecture. While these destinations are spread across a broad area, spending a night near Nagano Station gives you time to explore the city and makes tackling this side of the prefecture far more manageable than attempting to approach it from Matsumoto.

Visit Togakushi Shrine

A snow-covered path runs beneath the towering cedar trees leading toward Togakushi Shrine in Nagano Prefecture. The straight avenue disappears into the wintry forest, framed by massive reddish-brown trunks and branches dusted with snow. The quiet scene captures the sacred mountain atmosphere surrounding the shrine's famous Upper Shrine approach.

Hidden in the mountains above Nagano City, Togakushi Shrine is one of the prefecture’s most important sacred sites. The complex is tied to the myth of Amano Iwato, in which the sun goddess Amaterasu Omikami hid inside a cave and plunged the world into darkness. After the other deities lured her out, the enormous stone door sealing the cave was hurled away and supposedly landed in Nagano, becoming Mt. Togakushi. Indeed, the name Togakushi roughly translates as “hidden door.” The mountain later developed into a major center of Shugendo and syncretic worship, where Shinto traditions existed alongside esoteric Buddhism until the two religions were formally separated in the late 1800s.

Togakushi Shrine is not a single sanctuary but a collection of five shrines spread across three main areas. These are the Lower Shrine, the Hino-miko Shrine, the Middle Shrine, the Upper Shrine, and the Kuzuryu Shrine. Visiting all five traditionally involves following a pilgrimage route of around ten kilometers, although buses make it possible to skip between sections. While each shrine has something to offer, the Upper Shrine is undoubtedly the main event. Its two-kilometer approach passes through the vermilion Zuishinmon gate before entering the enormous cedar avenue that has made Togakushi so photogenic. I suggest starting at the Lower Shrine and working upward, saving the Upper Shrine’s cedar-lined approach for last.

Unfortunately, that photogenic cedar avenue has also brought Togakushi Shrine some of the less charming consequences of its newfound popularity. The tourism boom sends large numbers of people there during winter to photograph the snow-covered trees, and some have ignored barriers protecting areas closed because of avalanche danger. The problem has become serious enough that shrine administrators have had to strengthen restrictions around the approach. Togakushi Shrine may make for an alluring backdrop, but it is first and foremost a sacred site and an active place of worship. Treat it accordingly, obey every posted restriction, and do not let the pursuit of a photograph override either basic manners.

Reaching Togakushi is rather straightforward from Nagano City, although the mountain setting makes it a substantial outing. Buses depart from outside Nagano Station and take around an hour, depending on which shrine you are heading to and the conditions on the road. Budget at least half a day if you only intend to see the main sites and considerably longer if you want to complete the full five-shrine pilgrimage. Routes and stopping patterns change with the season, particularly during winter, so check the latest timetable before setting out rather than assuming every service goes all the way.

Those Damn Snow Monkeys

Several wild Japanese macaques soak in the steaming hot spring at Snow Monkey Park in Nagano Prefecture. Two monkeys rest their arms on the stone edge in the foreground while others bathe behind them beneath snow-covered rocks. The close view captures the famous winter scene that draws large crowds to watch the monkeys relax in the warm water.

Next up are the famous snow monkeys of the aptly named Snow Monkey Park. Located in the mountains of Yamanouchi, the park is home to a troop of wild Japanese macaques best known for bathing in a naturally heated pool during winter. The monkeys are not confined and may come and go as they please, so their presence is never guaranteed. Still, the sight of snow-covered macaques soaking in an onsen has become one of Nagano Prefecture’s defining images, particularly between December and March. Yes, they are every bit as cute as the photographs suggest.

That said, I do not personally recommend going out of your way to see them. The Snow Monkey Park has become enormously popular, with peak winter visits bringing packed buses, long lines, and a steady stream of people along the narrow trail. The crowds have also created enough problems, including tourists trying to feed, touch, or even enter the bath with the monkeys, that administrators have had to step in. Between the journey, the 30-to-40-minute walk each way, and the wait to enter, the outing can consume three or four hours for what is ultimately a brief encounter with some monkeys. They are adorable, but there are better ways to spend that chunk of a Nagano itinerary.

For those who simply have to go, the most convenient option is the express bus from Nagano Station, which reaches the Snow Monkey Park bus stop in roughly 45 minutes. From there, expect another 35 to 40 minutes on foot before reaching the park itself. Alternatively, take the Nagano Dentetsu line to Yudanaka Station and continue by local bus. Better yet, consider spending a night in either Yudanaka Onsen or neighboring Shibu Onsen rather than racing back to Nagano City. Both sit near the park and offer traditional ryokan, hot springs, and a proper Japanese breakfast, giving you a much more substantial reason to make the journey into this part of the prefecture.

Mighty Matsumoto Castle

Matsumoto Castle rises above its broad moat in central Matsumoto, Nagano Prefecture, with the dark wooden keep reflected in the water below. Its black-and-white exterior, stone foundations, and layered roofs stand out against the surrounding trees and open sky. One of Japan's twelve surviving original castle keeps, the National Treasure is especially known for its imposing appearance and backdrop of the Japanese Alps.

With the main attractions along the Nagano City corridor largely covered, it is time to hop over the mountains to Matsumoto. Sitting in the Matsumoto Basin on the opposite side of the Chikuma Mountains, the city has long functioned as a center of life in central Nagano. Indeed, while Nagano City is the modern prefectural capital, Matsumoto has the older administrative pedigree. The provincial government of Shinano was relocated to the Matsumoto area during the Heian period (794–1185), and the city later served as the seat of Shinano’s military governor before flourishing as the castle town of Matsumoto Domain.

In all but the nichest of corner cases, Matsumoto Castle is the reason you come. Completed around the close of Japan’s century of civil war, it is one of just twelve surviving original keeps in all of Japan and one of only five anointed as National Treasures. Forget the hilltop fortresses you find elsewhere; this one squats defiantly on the flat of the basin, its tar-black walls earning it the nickname the “Crow Castle,” with the Japanese Alps stacked up dramatically behind it. You can climb the original wooden keep too, though the near-vertical staircases and skull-cracking low beams are not to be trifled with, particularly on the way back down. From the top floor, the view runs clear across the city to the mountains beyond.

Beyond the keep, Matsumoto is compact enough to cover almost entirely on foot. The Nakamachi district preserves old merchant houses and white-walled storehouses, while the parallel Nawate Street, better known as Frog Street, packs pokey little shops along the approach to Yohashira Shrine. The city is also weirdly flush with museums for its size. The Matsumoto City Museum of Art hands a whole permanent wing to hometown legend Yayoi Kusama, while the Timepiece Museum and a scattering of smaller historical houses round out the cultural offerings. None of them outshine the castle, but together they make Matsumoto far more than a one-trick town.

Logistically, Matsumoto is the natural anchor for the second of Nagano’s two main travel corridors. The Limited Express Azusa runs directly from Shinjuku along the Chuo Line, reaching Matsumoto in roughly two and a half to three hours. Once there, the castle and most of the city center are easily reached on foot or by local bus. Matsumoto also makes a sound base for exploring the Suwa region, the Kiso Valley, Kamikochi, and other destinations on this side of the prefecture, all of which are considerably easier to combine with Matsumoto than with Nagano City.

Narai-juku & the Kiso Valley

Traditional wooden buildings line the narrow main street of Narai-juku in Nagano Prefecture, with old shop signs hanging beneath dark timber eaves. The preserved post town sits against a steep forested mountain backdrop in the Kiso Valley, giving the scene a strong sense of its Edo period (1603–1868) character and former importance along the Nakasendo route.

If you are already going to Matsumoto, I cannot more highly recommend adding Narai-juku to the itinerary. Located farther south in the Kiso Valley, Narai-juku was one of the 69 post towns along the Nakasendo, the inland highway that once connected modern-day Tokyo with Kyoto. Travelers stopped in places like this to eat, sleep, and recover before continuing through the mountains. Narai-juku stood near the midpoint of the route and became one of its most prosperous settlements, eventually earning the moniker “Narai of a Thousand Houses.” Much of that old townscape survives today, making it one of the best places in Nagano to see how a post town would have looked in the days of yesteryear.

Once there, ditch the traditional sightseeing mindset and simply meander along Narai-juku’s kilometer-long main street. The preserved wooden buildings now house soba restaurants, sake shops, lacquerware vendors, cafés, and the occasional minshuku. Several former residences, including the Nakamura Residence and Kamidonya Shiryokan, are also open to the public and provide a closer look at how local merchants once lived. Other points of interest include the old notice board used to display government decrees and the photogenic Kiso Ohashi. Still, Narai-juku is less about racing between attractions and more about savoring the atmosphere created by the entire townscape.

Narai-juku is also remarkably easy to visit from Matsumoto. Trains running south along the JR Chuo Line reach Narai Station in around 45 minutes, although some journeys require a transfer at Shiojiri. From Narai Station, the historic portion of town is only a few minutes away on foot. Services through the Kiso Valley are not nearly as frequent as trains around major cities, so check the return schedule before setting off rather than wandering into a long wait. Even so, Narai-juku works extremely well as a half-day excursion from Matsumoto or as the opening stop on a longer journey through the Kiso Valley.

By the way, while it is beyond the scope of this article on Nagano Prefecture, you could actually continue following the Kiso Valley south from Narai-juku to see even more of the old Nakasendo. The best-known stops are Tsumago-juku and Magome-juku, two beautifully preserved post towns connected by a walkable section of the former highway. From there, you could continue onward into neighboring Gifu Prefecture if you so desired, effectively turning Narai-juku into the starting point for a much longer journey towards Nagoya along the old route.

Make Time for Kamikochi

The clear turquoise waters of the Azusa River flow through Kamikochi in Nagano Prefecture, framed by dense green forest and the snow-streaked peaks of the Northern Japanese Alps. Gravel banks line the river beneath a bright blue sky, capturing the alpine scenery that makes Kamikochi one of Nagano's most celebrated hiking and nature destinations.

Kamikochi is a highland valley sitting at roughly 1,500 meters within Chubu-Sangaku National Park, hemmed in by some of the highest peaks in the Northern Japanese Alps. The Hotaka Mountain Range rises to the south, crowned by Mt. Okuhotaka at 3,190 meters, the third-tallest mountain in Japan, while the sharp spire of Mt. Yari and the smoldering cone of Mt. Yake, the only active volcano in the Northern Alps, fill out the skyline. Through the middle runs the Azusa River, its meltwater so clear it turns an improbable shade of blue-green as it threads past forests, wetlands, and landmarks like Kappa Bridge, Taisho Pond, and Myojin Pond.

Much of Kamikochi’s fame is surprisingly modern. The valley was little more than a remote logging and grazing ground until British missionary Walter Weston spent time here in the late nineteenth century and helped popularize the then-foreign notion of “climbing for pleasure,” an idea he laid out in his 1896 book Mountaineering and Exploration in the Japanese Alps. A bronze relief of him still sits along the path near Kappa Bridge, with a festival held in his honor each June marking the opening of the climbing season. Taisho Pond, by contrast, is a far more recent and violent creation, formed in 1915 when Mt. Yake erupted and dammed the Azusa River.

While serious hikers use Kamikochi as a gateway to multi-day routes up Mt. Hotaka and Mt. Yari, most travelers can take in the valley along a flat riverside path that asks for nothing more strenuous than a decent pair of shoes. Rather than turning around after the obligatory photo at Kappa Bridge, walk at least part of the way downstream to Taisho Pond or upstream to Myojin Pond. That extra hour or two on foot is what separates experiencing Kamikochi from merely photographing it, and it is what justifies setting aside a full day from Matsumoto.

Getting there takes some doing. From Matsumoto, take the Kamikochi Line to Shin-Shimashima Station and transfer to a bus into the park. Private vehicles have been barred from the valley since the 1970s, so drivers must leave the car at Sawando on the Nagano side or Hirayu Onsen over in Gifu and continue by shuttle. Kamikochi is only open from late April until November 15, after which the access tunnel closes for winter. Late spring sets fresh green against still-white peaks, while October brings the best autumn color and the heaviest crowds, so go midweek and if you can.

Don’t Miss the Suwa Region

Lake Suwa glows beneath a sea of clouds at dusk, with the lights of the surrounding city and lakeshore shining through the mist. Dark mountain ridges frame the scene, while the distant silhouette of Mt. Fuji rises above the clouds on the horizon. The layered blue and orange tones create a dramatic view across the Suwa region of Nagano Prefecture.

Before reaching Matsumoto, the second corridor passes through the Suwa region, which developed around the shores of Lake Suwa. Despite being easy to reach from Tokyo, this part of Nagano remains far less familiar to foreign travelers than the prefectural capital or Matsumoto. That is a shame because Suwa combines ancient religious traditions, hot springs, lakeside scenery, and mountain landscapes in one compact area. It is easily worth a day or two rather than merely passing through on the train.

The main reason to visit is Suwa Taisha, one of Japan’s oldest and most important shrine complexes. Rather than occupying a single site, it consists of four shrines divided between the Upper Shrine and Lower Shrine. The Upper Shrine comprises the Maemiya and Honmiya, while the Lower Shrine consists of the Harumiya and Akimiya on the opposite side of Lake Suwa. Visiting all four takes some effort, but doing so reveals just how deeply the shrine and its traditions are woven into the surrounding region.

Beyond Suwa Taisha, you can cycle around Lake Suwa, soak in the hot springs near Kami-Suwa, or visit Takashima Castle near the lakeshore. Suwa is also known for sake, with several breweries clustered within walking distance of Kami-Suwa Station. Farther afield, the Venus Line climbs into the surrounding highlands, while museums, lakeside cruises, and places such as Mishaka Pond provide plenty of additional options. There is more here than most travelers expect at first glance.

In terms of access, the Suwa region sits directly on the way from Tokyo to Matsumoto aboard the Limited Express Azusa. Chino, Kami-Suwa, Shimo-Suwa, and Okaya are the area’s main stations, though Kami-Suwa makes the most convenient base for most travelers. Spend a night there and you can continue onward to Matsumoto the following morning without retracing your steps. Trains are useful for reaching the region, but a rental car or bicycle makes exploring the four shrines and the wider lakeside area considerably easier.

Hakuba & Its Ski Resorts

A snowy ski slope at Hakuba in Nagano Prefecture overlooks a vast range of winter-covered mountains at sunset. Chairlifts and gondola towers rise from the foreground as skiers make their way across the powder below. Warm evening light touches the surrounding ridgelines, highlighting the dramatic alpine scenery and deep snow that have made Hakuba one of Japan's best-known ski destinations.

Hakuba is not one resort but the beating heart of the wider Hakuba Valley, a sprawl of ten linked ski areas draped across the villages of Hakuba, Otari, and Omachi. It put itself on the map hosting the alpine and ski-jumping events at the 1998 Winter Olympics, and it has since become a borderline pilgrimage site for the powder-obsessed, drawn by the legendary Japow that buries the valley every winter. Resorts like Happo-One, Hakuba 47, Goryu, Iwatake, and Tsugaike between them serve up everything from gentle bunny slopes to top-to-bottom runs and proper off-piste terrain, all of it sat beneath the jagged wall of the Northern Japanese Alps.

Despite the reputation, Hakuba is no one-season pony. Once the snow finally lets go, the valley swaps skis for hiking boots, road bikes, and mountain bikes, and the lifts keep right on turning. Several resorts run their gondolas clear through summer, which means you can cheat your way up to alpine viewpoints and trails like the popular hike to Happo Pond without grinding up from the valley floor. The green season runs roughly June through September, the muggy peak of July and August giving way to autumn colors that come creeping down from the high peaks. Even spring earns its keep, pairing snow-capped ridgelines up top with cherry blossoms down in the valley.

As for getting there, Hakuba sits north of Matsumoto along the JR Oito Line, making it possible to continue directly from the Matsumoto side of the prefecture. That said, travelers coming straight from Tokyo may find it faster to take the Hokuriku Shinkansen to Nagano Station and transfer to an express bus, with the entire journey taking under three hours. Once there, local buses and seasonal resort shuttles connect the main ski areas, hotels, and onsen, although having a car makes exploring the wider valley considerably easier outside the winter season. Hakuba is best enjoyed over several nights rather than as a rushed day trip.

Stop by Ueda Castle

A restored turret and gate at Ueda Castle rise above steep stone walls in Ueda, Nagano Prefecture. Wooden stairways and dark timber facades lead upward between the white-plastered structures, while the bright sky overhead helps emphasize the fortifications. The scene captures one of the surviving features of the former stronghold founded by Sanada Masayuki in the late 1500s.

Speaking of the Hokuriku Shinkansen, on the way to Nagano you will pass through the former castle town of Ueda. Its main attraction is Ueda Castle, which was founded by Sanada Masayuki in 1583 toward the end of Japan’s brutal period of civil strife. Despite being comparatively small, the fortress famously repelled much larger Tokugawa armies on two separate occasions. The keep is long gone, but the surviving stone walls, moat, gates, and turrets now form Ueda Castle Ruins Park, where you will also find Sanada Shrine.

Outside the city center, Bessho Onsen is somewhere that I would strongly suggest adding to any visit to Ueda. Often nicknamed the “Kamakura of Shinshu,” the hillside hot spring town is home to Kitamuki Kannon, Joraku-ji, and Anraku-ji, whose octagonal wooden pagoda dates to the Kamakura period (1192–1333) and is designated a National Treasure. Bessho Onsen also retains plenty of old-school charm, with traditional ryokan and several inexpensive public baths scattered throughout the town.

Ueda is also one of the easiest additions to the Nagano City corridor. The city sits directly on the Hokuriku Shinkansen between Tokyo and Nagano, with the journey from the capital taking around 90 minutes. Ueda Castle is roughly a 12-minute walk from the station, while Bessho Onsen can be reached in around 40 minutes aboard the Ueda Dentetsu Bessho Line. Not every bullet train stops at Ueda Station though, so double-check your service before hopping aboard.

Iiyama & Nozawa Onsen

A circular outdoor footbath overlooks the mountain village of Nozawa Onsen at sunset in northern Nagano Prefecture. Decorative streetlamps glow beside the wooden railing as ryokan and other buildings climb the forested hillside in the distance. The colorful evening sky and quiet onsen setting capture the traditional hot spring atmosphere that complements the village's famous ski slopes.

Continuing along the Hokuriku Shinkansen, one stop beyond Nagano brings you to Iiyama City. Located in the snowy northern reaches of the prefecture, the city developed as a castle town around a fortress built by Uesugi Kenshin during Japan’s century of bloody civil war. Iiyama is also known as the “Little Kyoto of Snow Country” thanks to the many temples clustered around its old center. Alongside the castle ruins and temple district, the Mayumi Takahashi Museum of Doll Art offers another worthwhile reason to explore before heading farther into the mountains.

That said, Iiyama’s most important role for many travelers is serving as the gateway to Nozawa Onsen. The old hot spring town is home to one of Japan’s best-known ski resorts, but it has far more character than the purpose-built winter developments found elsewhere. Traditional inns, narrow streets, and thirteen public bathhouses sit directly beneath the slopes, allowing travelers to alternate between skiing and soaking without leaving town. Even outside winter, Nozawa Onsen remains a pleasant place to unwind, though the combination of abundant powder and an actual onsen village is what makes it particularly alluring.

When it comes to access, Iiyama Station sits directly on the Hokuriku Shinkansen, around eleven minutes beyond Nagano and roughly one hour and forty minutes from Tokyo. The Nozawa Onsen Liner connects the station with the village in around 25 minutes, with slower local buses also serving the route. Services are not constant, so check the timetable before setting out rather than assuming a bus will be waiting for every bullet train. Iiyama and Nozawa Onsen therefore work best when you spend at least one night there rather than treating them as a rushed side trip from Nagano City.

Around Lake Nojiri

Lake Nojiri sits amid snow-covered forests and mountains in northern Nagano Prefecture, its deep blue water standing out against the winter landscape. Ski slopes are visible across the surrounding peaks, while the wooded shoreline curves around the lake below. The elevated view highlights the area's quiet scenery and its proximity to the snowy highlands of northern Shinshu.

Located north of Nagano City in the quaint town of Shinano, Lake Nojiri is the second-largest lake in Nagano Prefecture. Sitting at around 657 meters and ringed by the Five Peaks of Northern Shinshu, it feels more like a quiet lakeside escape than one of the prefecture’s headline attractions, which is exactly why foreign missionaries fleeing a fashionable Karuizawa established a summer colony here in the 1920s. The lake is particularly popular during the green season, when its calm waters and forested shoreline offer an escape from the heat found elsewhere in Japan.

There is plenty to do beyond merely admiring the scenery. You can kayak, canoe, paddleboard, follow the roughly 20-kilometer cycling course around the lake, or take a sightseeing boat out to tiny isle of Bentenjima and its centuries-old Uga Shrine. The most unusual attraction is the Nojiriko Naumann Elephant Museum, which displays fossils and stone tools excavated from an Ice Age hunting site nearby. Lake Nojiri is also home to The Sauna at LAMP Nojiriko, a collection of Finnish-style wood-fired saunas that has become an attraction in its own right.

From Nagano Station, take the Shinano Railway Kita-Shinano Line to Kurohime Station, a journey of around 35 minutes. After arriving, Lake Nojiri is another 10 minutes away by taxi, though having a rental car makes getting around the shoreline considerably easier (hoofing it like I did would be unwise for most). This is very much a green-season spot, so while it works as a day trip from Nagano City, spending a night by the water lets you enjoy it without rushing back for the train.

Upscale Karuizawa

Shiraito Falls forms a broad curtain of clear water beneath dense green forest in Karuizawa, Nagano Prefecture. Dozens of narrow streams spill over the curved rock face into a shallow pool below, while fresh summer foliage surrounds the secluded waterfall. The bright blue sky and lush woodland highlight the cool, tranquil scenery that makes Shiraito Falls a popular nature stop near Karuizawa.

Much like the snow monkeys, Karuizawa is included here largely for completion’s sake. The highland resort has served as a summer escape for Tokyo’s well-to-do since the Meiji period (1868–1912), and its tourism scene is now known for villas, luxury hotels, restaurants, and boutiques. There is nothing inherently wrong with Karuizawa, but it is not really the type of place that I personally come to Nagano for. The prefecture has far more history, culture, and raw nature elsewhere.

For those who do want to stop, Old Karuizawa Ginza offers cafés, shops, and traces of the town’s Western-influenced resort history. Elsewhere, you can cycle through the wooded villa districts, browse the shops and restaurants at Harunire Terrace, or venture out to Shiraito Falls. The enormous Karuizawa Prince Shopping Plaza also sits beside the station for anyone whose idea of a mountain retreat involves outlet shopping. Karuizawa is polished and easy to enjoy, even if it is not the Nagano experience that I would personally prioritize.

Karuizawa, meanwhile, could hardly be easier to add. It sits directly on the Hokuriku Shinkansen between Tokyo and Ueda, with the fastest journeys from Tokyo taking around an hour and Nagano Station another 30 minutes farther along the line. This makes Karuizawa a simple stop on the way into the prefecture rather than somewhere that requires a dedicated detour. Just check that your chosen train stops there, as some Hokuriku Shinkansen services pass straight through.

Other Nearby Attractions

Kurobe Dam curves across a steep mountain gorge on the Tateyama Kurobe Alpine Route, releasing powerful streams of water from its spillways. A vivid turquoise reservoir stretches behind the massive concrete structure, surrounded by dense green forest and snow-streaked peaks. The sweeping view highlights both the scale of Japan's tallest dam and the dramatic alpine landscape around it.

Even after devoting all these words to Nagano Prefecture, we are still only scratching the surface of what there is to see and do. Nagano is simply too large and geographically varied for any single article to cover in full. Entire corners of the prefecture have barely received a mention, and plenty of worthwhile attractions have been left out altogether. Think of everything covered above as a collection of starting points rather than an exhaustive list of what Nagano has to offer.

Among the many omissions are Obuse, known for its chestnuts and connections to the artist Hokusai, and Azumino, whose rural scenery is dotted with streams and wasabi farms. There is also the former castle town of Komoro, the hot springs around Chikuma, and Takato Castle Park, which erupts with cherry blossoms every spring. Farther south, Achi Village has become famous for stargazing, while the highlands around Utsukushigahara offer yet another place to experience Nagano’s mountain scenery. Nagano’s food culture also deserves more space than it receives here, whether that means local rice, seasonal vegetables, a plate of oyaki, or a delicious bowl of Shinshu soba.

Of all the places excluded from the main sections, Senjojiki Cirque is probably the one that most deserves its own section. Located in southern Nagano beneath the peaks of the Central Japanese Alps, this glacier-carved basin can be reached using the Komagatake Ropeway. The ride deposits visitors at an elevation of around 2,600 meters, providing access to alpine scenery without requiring a full-scale mountain expedition. From there, you can follow shorter walking paths around the cirque or continue onto more demanding trails toward the surrounding peaks.

Meanwhile, those visiting Matsumoto can use Nagano as the opening half of a much larger journey. From Matsumoto, travel north to Shinano-Omachi and continue by bus to Ogizawa, the eastern entrance to the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route. The route then crosses the Northern Japanese Alps using a succession of buses, cable cars, ropeways, and other forms of transportation. Along the way, it passes Kurobe Dam and the alpine plateau around Murodo before eventually descending into Toyama Prefecture. Budget most of a day for the full crossing rather than trying to rush it.

Alternatively, Matsumoto also offers a convenient route west into neighboring Gifu Prefecture. Direct highway buses cross the mountains through Hirayu Onsen before continuing to Hida-Takayama, whose preserved old town makes a natural follow-up to Nagano’s castles and post towns. You could stop around Hirayu to explore the hot springs and Okuhida region or remain aboard and continue directly to Hida-Takayama. It is a far simpler crossing than the Tateyama-Kurobe Alpine Route, but it provides another useful way to continue through rural Japan without first doubling back toward Tokyo.

Until next time travelers…


Subscribe to My Newsletter

Donny Kimball
Donny Kimball

I'm a travel writer and freelance digital marketer who blogs about the sides of Japan that you can't find in the mainstream media.

Articles: 422