It was late February, and we were taking refuge from the cold at a ski lodge up in the Appi Highlands of Iwate. Outside, soft, powdery snow fluttered down tenderly from the heavens above. The journey that led us here is a story in itself, but somehow, we found ourselves gathered around an open fire encircled by an iron grill. Our host, the butcher Fugane-san, expertly prepared some of the finest beef we had ever tasted. As he worked, he posed a question that lingered in the air, “Do you want to come back in June for the bullfights?” There was only one acceptable answer…
Truth be told, I had long been fascinated by Iwate’s history of using cattle to haul the precious commodity of sea salt over the Kitakami Mountains to the administrative nexus of Morioka. Known in Japanese as the Shio-no-Michi, or “Salt Road,” this crucial highway was essential for transporting salt from the coastal areas of the prefecture to the more populated core of the domain. In flatter parts of the country, horses or other means could have been used to transport the salt. However, in this rugged terrain, only the Tankaku, or Japanese Shorthorn cattle, could manage the task.
The following account retells my recent adventures in the mountainous and coastal parts of Iwate Prefecture. While certainly a trip off the beaten path and not one I would recommend to first-time visitors to Japan, this is exactly the type of place I set out to feature when I started this blog in 2016. Combining historical narrative, local culture, and beautiful scenery, the opportunity to delve deep into Iwate and explore the legacy of its Japanese Shorthorn cattle was a peak travel experience for me.
How to Get There
Before diving into the details of my journey along Iwate’s Shio-no-Michi, let me first discuss some key logistics. First, you’ll need to make your way to the prefecture, which can most easily be done by taking the Hayabusa Shinkansen to Morioka Station. Since we planned to meet up with Fugane-san in the morning, we traveled up the day before and stayed at the local Dormy Inn. Unless you’re an extreme early riser, I suggest doing the same so that you’re not forced to take a 5 AM bullet train.
While much of the Shio-no-Michi can be explored by public transportation, you’re far better off renting a car. Simply put, if this isn’t an option for some reason, I’d suggest opting for another destination in Japan with better bus and train access. Without a car, you’ll miss out on much of the real appeal of this area. Though I don’t drive myself and usually manage quite well when out in the countryside, navigating this part of Iwate is really only worth doing if you have a car.
Currently, I am discussing with Fugane-san the possibility of making this a tour package. While language might still be an issue as the content would all be in Japanese, we may be able to develop it into an offering where transportation hurdles are solved by hiring a bus. This way, even those who don’t drive can follow in my footsteps and learn all about Iwate’s Shio-no-Michi and the Japanese Shorthorn cattle. Should this ever become a reality, I’ll update this article with the info.
Meeting Our Meat
After paying a visit to the hilarious Cabbage Man, the regional mascot for Iwate, and enjoying lunch at a local soba restaurant, our first stop of the day was the cowsheds of Kakiki Toshiyuki, the beef provider for Fugane-san’s business. Here, we got up close and personal with some of the Japanese Shorthorn cattle. Beautiful to behold, these magnificent creatures, once the carriers of salt, are now the source of Iwate’s wagyu variant, which is far leaner than the fattier Kobe beef.
As we toured the many barns, Kakiki-san and Fugane-san explained that some of these cows would be participating in the bullfighting taking place the following day. This came as quite a surprise, as the creatures seemed so gentle and friendly, even to strangers like us. Still, you could see how these mountains of muscle would have been helpful when hauling salt up and down the slopes of the Shio-no-Michi.
As someone who is largely carnivorous, I think it’s vital to have experiences like this, where you get the chance to interact with the animals that provide us with the nutrients we need to live. In our modern lives, it’s all too easy to forget where our food comes from when you buy a package of already butchered meat at the supermarket or order a steak at a restaurant. By getting back to the source in a way like this, you can remind yourself of what it means to be a meat eater.
Spelunking at Ryusendo
After mooing at some of Kakiki-san’s cattle, we got back into Fugane-san’s car and took off for our next destination. While not originally on the itinerary, we decided to make a quick pit stop at Ryusendo. Regarded as one of Japan’s three great limestone caves, this network of caverns is estimated to extend around 5,000 meters into the mountainside. To date, only a little more than half of Ryusendo has been explored since surveys began back in the 1920s, which is frankly quite surprising.
Around 700 meters of Ryusendo is open to the public, allowing visitors to explore the caves via a lattice of elevated walkways, bridges, and staircases. Since this section of Ryusendo has been developed for tourism, it is relatively easy to navigate and only moderately constricting at some points. That said, be mindful not to slip on the damp condensation that accumulates in the cave, as it can be a bit slippery so watch your footing as you meander about Ryusendo.
One thing not to miss is Ryusendo’s trio of lakes. Measuring 35, 38, and 98 meters deep, these bodies of water are illuminated by underwater lights suspended deep into the lakes. This causes the water to glow with an eerie and mysterious blue hue, as can be seen in the image above. There’s actually a fourth lake that is even deeper, at 120 meters, but it is not open to the public. For what it’s worth, I’ve read that it’s the deepest underground lake in all of Japan.
Tanohata Yamachi Rakuno
After emerging from the cool depths of Ryusendo back into the early summer heat, we hopped into Fugane-san’s car and departed for Tanohata Yamachi Rakuno. Located up in the highlands, this regenerative dairy farm uses a steep, non-arable mountain slope that has been transformed into a lush pasture over decades by the cattle that live, graze, and, well, poop here. Despite the challenges involved in setting up a system like this, this sustainable method benefits the environment and supports long-term agricultural stability.
The Tanohata Yamachi Rakuno farm was established by Dr. Naohara Kyoji, the so-called “Founder of Japanese Mountain Dairy Farming.” During our visit, he graciously guided us through his pastures and explained the symbiotic cycle between his cows and the land. As someone who lives on his MacBook Air as a digital marketer and content creator, it was a much-needed reprieve from technology and an amazing opportunity to get back to nature and learn about the process of producing milk at Tanohata Yamachi Rakuno.
After experiencing what may very well be the most verdant pasture I’ve ever set foot on, we exited the field where the cows were kept and had a chance to sample some of the dairy made here at Tanohata Yamachi Rakuno. Though I am not a big fan of milk myself, even I must admit that this stuff was top-tier. What I was far more excited about was Dr. Naohara’s butter. This stuff is the real deal, and I don’t know if I’ll ever be able to go back to eating anything else — it was that good.
The Noda Shio Factory
Having had our dairy for the day, the next stop on our tour de Iwate was the Noda Shio Factory (Noda being the name for this part of Iwate and Shio being Japanese for salt). For centuries, this important compound had been taking seawater and transforming it into some of the best salt to be had. The resulting product was then carted over the Kitakami Mountains on the backs of the Japanese Shorthorns, as depicted in the statue shown above outside the local train station.
While inspecting the Noda Shio Factory, one thing that struck me was how timeless everything was. Were it not for the iPhone I was using to film content for my reel on the Shio-no-Michi, there would have been no other clues as to what decade it even was. Here at the Noda Shio Factory, they do things the old way. With nothing more than a few large brick stoves burning firewood to boil the seawater, the workers here have been rendering salt in similar ways as their ancestors have for centuries.
Normally, you can’t just go in for an inspection at the Noda Shio Factory without an appointment, so I suggest calling ahead (if you speak Japanese, or getting a friend to do it for you if you can’t). While we were graciously given the opportunity to try scooping some salt out of the boiling vat of seawater, the Noda Shio Factory usually doesn’t offer hands-on experiences to visitors. So, you’ll need to just watch the salt makers work their magic from afar. Especially in summer, though, the heat of the fire makes it quite oppressive, so this isn’t necessarily a bad thing.
Anyway, after buying a few kilograms worth of Noda Shio, the troupe and I headed up to Kuji City’s town of Yamagata. This part of Iwate has long been known as an area with a reputation for raising Japanese Shorthorn cattle, and we were going to dine with the local ranchers. Needless to say, it was one epic night of feasting on some of the finest beef that I’ve had the chance to sample in this short life of mine.
Iwate’s Hiraniwa Bullfighting
While the first day of this Iwate outing was all about the Shio-no-Michi, the second was about the bullfighting that we originally came up for. After a good soak in the mizuburo of our hotel to clear the lingering hangover from drinking too much with the locals the previous night, we headed out to the arena in the Hiraniwa Kogen highlands. Much to my surprise, the bull-on-bull action drew a huge crowd of people from both Iwate and neighboring prefectures.
I guess here I should probably explain why Iwate even has bullfighting to begin with. As I was told by Fugane-san, the tradition is deeply tied to the Shio-no-Michi. In the days of yesteryear, the bulls would battle it out to see which of them got to lead caravans departing from where the salt was harvested in Noda. As Japan entered modernity and the Japanese Shorthorns became a source of food, the practice just stuck. In today’s annoyingly woke PC era, Iwate still continues to hold bullfights.
Now, before I go and get canceled again, know that the matches here in Iwate ALWAYS end in a tie. While other parts of Japan that do bullfighting actually let the animals go at it fully (sometimes even to the death), the tradition here holds that the handlers will call off the fight in such a way that both bulls can leave feeling like they were the victors. Historically, this not only preserved an important asset for transporting salt, it also ensured that the animals would want to fight again.
The battling beef action up in Hiraniwa Kogen usually starts around 11 AM and continues past noon. There are ample vendors around the area selling all sorts of treats, so you can eat lunch while also watching the matches. Generally, they start with smaller and younger bulls and progress towards the finale, where the yokozuna (yes, like sumo) duke it out. Weighing in at over 1,000 kg, these behemoths put on quite the show as they butt heads to the roaring applause of spectators.
While I can’t predict the future and therefore cannot comment on next year, it looks like Hiraniwa Kogen’s bullfights are held a few times per season once the weather warms up. You can refer to this website (in Japanese only, sadly) for future schedules. Note that entry to the area will cost you 1,000 yen per person, but I encourage anyone visiting to also donate a few hundred more to help support the festivities and keep the bullfighting tradition going.
Some More Moos
Thoroughly kissed by the sun after hours of watching the bullfights but not yet ready to call it quits, we ended the second day of our tour by visiting a few more cow pastures. On the first day, our main interactions with the Japanese Shorthorns (outside of, ummmm, dinner) were with the animals that were confined in their cowsheds, but day two was different. Instead, we were welcomed into the open pastures where the bovine are kept once the icy winter temperatures of Tohoku subside.
This was truly an amazing experience as it’s not every day that you get the opportunity to get this up close and personal with cattle grazing in their fields. Up here in Iwate, the animals are raised in their natural environment, and it was breathtaking to behold the calves chasing their mothers around for milk. According to Fugane-san, they naturally start grazing in the pasture by observing their mothers and then mimicking their behavior.
As we navigated around what we were jokingly referring to as “landmines” in the field (i.e., cow patties), I couldn’t help but think back to all of the anti-meat people who take to social media with their ill-conceived cause that beef is bad for the environment. According to these people, raising cattle causes an increase in methane, which has deleterious effects on the planet. Struck by the sight of the regenerative farming practice before me, I couldn’t help but think that no, this IS the environment.
Not to get on my proverbial soapbox, but ruminant animals grazing on open fields like this is exactly what formulates the rich soil needed to grow vegetation. It’s how Mother Nature intended things to be. Yes, the industrialized meat industry is evil incarnate, but regenerative practices like this are exactly what we need more of in our modern era of madness. Standing so close to the Japanese Shorthorns out in their field, this was a truth I could viscerally feel in every fiber of my being.
To wrap this one up, we ended the day by heading to Fugane-san’s shop (he does direct-to-consumer online sales, by the way) and spending all the yennies we could on various beef products. Thereafter, the whole team headed down to Morioka for dinner before catching the final Hayabusa Shinkansen back to Tokyo. Tired but extremely well-fed, I think I speak for everyone who was part of this trip when I say it was exactly the kind of travel experience that we all wanted.
Other Nearby Attractions
I don’t want to make this travel log any longer than it already is, so allow me to end quickly by saying that if you’re going to come up to this section of Tohoku, it would greatly behoove you to also plan on seeing some of the other sights up here. For starters, Morioka is going to be an easy addition to the itinerary since you’ll be transiting there if you are going to follow the Shio-no-Michi. I won’t delve into the details here, but let’s just say there’s a good reason why the city was on the New York Times’ list in 2023.
Of course, there is so much more to Tohoku. From Morioka, you can either make your way further north to Hakodate in Hokkaido, or you could head west to Akita Prefecture. In between both terminus points, there are a slew of things to do. Since you’ll be visiting in summer if you’re coming for the bullfights, you won’t be able to enjoy seasonal sensations like autumn foliage or cherry blossoms, but there’s still plenty to do in northern Tohoku!
Until next time travelers…
