Welcome back to another installment of getting far off the beaten path. In this issue, we’ll be exploring a hidden gem in Kyushu known as the Kuma Valley. This area essentially maps to the confines of Hitoyoshi City (or more commonly, Hitoyoshi-Kuma to distinguish it from other locales with the same name). This part of Kumamoto Prefecture has a long and storied legacy. Formerly the stronghold of the Sagara clan, this region of Japan boasts centuries of history. Moreover, the region has earned the nickname the “Little Kyoto” of Kumamoto.
Before we dive into how to explore the Kuma Valley, where to stay, and what to do, let’s first take a moment to cover the backstory of the region. As mentioned, Hitoyoshi-Kuma was once a castle town ruled by the Sagara clan. Although not often highlighted in history books, this family of daimyo was one of the wealthiest in Kyushu, reigning over the Kuma Valley from the start of the Kamakura period (1185–1333) to the beginning of the Meiji period. All in all, that is quite a run, especially considering that the Sagara clan’s hold on power survived Japan’s bloody century of civil war!
In addition to its rich history, the Kuma Valley is also blessed with bountiful nature. Surrounded on all sides by the Kyushu mountains, the area boasts stunning views, heavenly hot springs, and some of the most beautiful rivers in the entire country. Accented by the remnants of the Sagara clan’s dominion over the area, the combined scenery is both beautiful and bucolic in a way that only the Japanese countryside can truly manage to pull off. While the likes of Kyoto may be stunning, it’s places like Hitoyoshi-Kuma that really captivate me.
Though I’ll admit an outing to the Kuma Valley takes quite the commitment, the experience is more than worth the effort required to fit it into your travel itinerary. It’s the kind of destination that demands you really slow down and appreciate it. At the same time, the region offers ample activities to keep you busy. From outdoor adventures like cycling and hiking to ancient shrines with hundreds of years of history, there is something for everyone in the Kuma Valley. Honestly, I couldn’t recommend it more highly for those looking to see a different side of Japan.
How to Get There
Let’s take a quick second to cover some key logistics. Unfortunately, getting to the Kuma Valley is not easy, so if you’re going, you’ll want to commit to spending at least a few days there. Otherwise, it simply isn’t worth the effort required to make the trip. To begin with, you’ll want to take a flight to Kagoshima Airport from Tokyo or Osaka. Though located in the neighboring prefecture, it’s actually the closest airport to Hitoyoshi-Kuma. From there, you’ll need to either arrange for someone to pick you up or rent a car. While there is some public transportation to Hitoyoshi Station, you’re better off going somewhere else if you can’t drive.
Unfortunately, much of the infrastructure in Hitoyoshi-Kuma was obliterated during a massive flood a few years back. As a result of endless rains, the Kuma River broke its banks in many locations, submerging much of the townscape underwater. Even today, there are still many markers of this tragic event from the summer of 2020, which was even more challenging due to it being right in the middle of the worst of the pandemic. Sadly, one casualty of the floods was the train line, and as of this writing, the locals still haven’t managed to get the tracks back in working condition.
Surprisingly, while the journey to Hitoyoshi-Kuma might be a bit of a challenge, the Kuma Valley isn’t all that difficult to navigate once you’re there. Though you’ll definitely want that rental car for any spots outside of the city center, most of what I’ll recommend in this part of Kumamoto Prefecture can be accessed via bicycle. In fact, as you’ll see in a second, I highly suggest exploring the Kuma Valley on an e-bike, either as part of a guided tour or on your own. While a rental car may be handy, I find cycling to be the more enjoyable way to see the sights here.
As for where to stay, I am partial to Ayu-no-Sato, where I stayed back in June of 2024. Easily one of the nicest and most progressive ryokan in town, Ayu-no-Sato is well-equipped for handling foreign guests. The charismatic owner is fluent in English and has done a lot of the necessary work to welcome non-Japanese speakers. On-site, you’ll find English-speaking staff and documentation, as well as a solid integration with local tour operators. All things considered, Ayu-no-Sato is perfect for being your for your main hub while in Hitoyoshi-Kuma.
Allures Along the Kuma River
Many of the main attractions in the Kuma Valley can be found clustered around the banks of the Kuma River. Officially the longest waterway in all of Kyushu, the Kuma River has long been the lifeblood of the region. Even today, it is used to transport goods and people throughout the area. While some parts still need restoration work after the terrible floods of 2020, the Kuma River remains beautiful to behold.
Below, I’ve put together a collection of spots within walking distance of the riverside’s downtown areas. If you’re following my recommendation and staying at Ayu-no-Sato, all of these will be easily reachable from the ryokan on foot. However, you’ll be better able to make the rounds if you use a rental e-bike. As always, I’ll include a link to a Google Map to help you get your bearings…
- Aoi Aso Shrine
Probably the most prominent of the traditional attractions in the Kuma Valley, Aoi Aso Shrine is an ancient Shinto sanctum founded back in the early 800s. The present shrine architecture is a few hundred years old and is the first Important Cultural Property in Kumamoto Prefecture to receive a National Treasure designation. As seen in the shot above, Aoi Aso Shrine is quite the beauty when lit up at night, so consider taking an evening stroll to the shrine grounds from your ryokan! - Hitoyoshi Castle
Formerly the seat of power for the mighty Sagara daimyo, Hitoyoshi Castle’s remnants are still a spectacle to behold, even though little more than the stone walls remain today. Situated right along the Kuma River, this spot is a must-visit while you’re in Hitoyoshi-Kuma. Note that the former castle grounds are right across the river from Ayu-no-Sato. This means you can dreamily gaze at Hitoyoshi Castle while soaking away your stress in the ryokan’s outdoor hot water baths. - HASSENBA
This multi-purpose facility is a spot you’ll need to swing by if you want to snag a set of wheels to bike around on. Inside, there is a cafe, a shop, and a ticket counter where you can purchase a ride down the Kuma River on one of the traditional boats that have cruised down this important waterway for centuries. - Himawari-tei
If you like soul food and want to prepare local dishes next to the community legend Se-chan, then you’ll want to drop by Himawari-tei. Assuming you’ve made a reservation in advance, you can enjoy making a traditional lunch course with local ingredients and fermented foods alongside this lovable lady with a heart of gold. Since language largely isn’t needed, even those who can’t speak Japanese can enjoy this one! - Murayama Park
Not necessarily a spot you need to visit, Murayama Park is a quaint, hilltop space that overlooks the now-inoperative Hitoyoshi Station and appears to be quite picturesque during the spring for cherry blossoms. While I visited in June, those of you in Hitoyoshi-Kuma during March might want to check this one out!
Finally, though it’s a bit further from the aforementioned spots, I also recommend checking out Takahashi Shuzo’s Shochu Museum. Allegedly, this famed spirit originally hails from the Kuma Valley, or at least the earliest mentions of it can be found here. According to a local tale, graffiti scribbled into the woodwork of Koriyama Hachiman Shrine recounts how the head priest was so stingy that he didn’t share any shochu with the workers. This anecdote dates back to when the Sagara domain was at the peak of its power and is the oldest mention of shochu that historians can find.
Whether or not the Kuma Valley gave birth to the potent drink, the region is famous for its Kuma Shochu. Much like scotch, bourbon, or cognac overseas, Kuma Shochu is a brand unto itself, so be sure to check out a local distillery while you’re in Hitoyoshi-Kuma. In total, there are 28 such facilities in the region, and many welcome visitors. Here, you can learn all about the two-stage fermentation process used to make shochu.
Note that all of the spots here are ones you can easily explore on your own. That said, to truly get the most out of the Kuma Valley, I suggest looking into one of the many bike tours that the local powers have put together to make things easier for foreign tourists in Japan.
Riverside Lunch At the Kawabe River
Though the Kuma River is the primary waterway flowing through Hitoyoshi-Kuma, it is not the only one. Beautiful in its own right, the Kuma River can’t hold a candle to its tributary, the Kawabe River. Holding the record for the clearest river in the whole country for around two decades in a row, the Kawabe River is truly a sight to behold. Though still quite chilly in early June, I suspect that a dip in the stream during summer offers a much-needed reprieve from the heat if you feel like going for a swim.
In addition to the Kawabe River itself, there are many interesting areas along its shores, but these are rather spread out. Moreover, this section of the Kuma Valley is located far from central Hitoyoshi-Kuma. If you’re going to venture this far, it’s best to join one of the cycling tours on offer in the area. The itinerary enables you to learn all about the historical heritage and culture of the Sagara clan. Additionally, as you make your way toward the Kawabe River, you’ll pass through a tea farm where you can have a rare conversation with local tea farmers.
The event ultimately concludes with an intimate inspection of a local tofu factory and a riverside lunch (as seen above). Afterward, you can bike back to Hitoyoshi-Kuma and maybe sneak in a quick visit to a distillery or two, where you can finally enjoy some delicious shochu. Remember, folks, even though this is the rural countryside, drinking and driving a bicycle is both dangerous and a serious crime in Japan so keep the imbibing until after you’re done for the day.
Hyoho Taisha-ryu Training
I’m going to preface this section by saying I sadly did not get a chance to partake in this experience while in the Kuma Valley due to grand master Yamamoto Takahiro being overseas for an exhibition. From what I can gather though, visitors to the Kuma Valley can actually land a chance to learn Hyoho Taisha-ryu directly from master Yamamoto in a fully authentic workshop. This style of traditional martial arts was founded in the late 16th century by the legendary samurai Marume Kurando, who hailed from the Sagara domain.
Today, the Hyoho Taisha-ryu heritage is still taught to those willing to learn it by master Yamamoto. However, unlike many other touristy samurai experiences in Japan, the swordsmanship workshop is the real McCoy and not something that has been commodified for consumption. Thus, it’s an activity that you should approach with a certain degree of seriousness. Guests can join daily practices, engage with real students, and gain a deeper understanding of samurai culture.
There isn’t much out there in terms of English language information on how to partake in a class, so I suggest starting with the official website. If you happen to be staying at Ayu-no-Sato or taking a local tour, I think their concierge could help you sort something out, but otherwise, expect to run into the language barrier if you go it alone…
Other Nearby Attractions
The Kuma Valley is situated in a rather unique location. As mentioned above, the nearest airport is Kagoshima Airport, but it would be a shame to fly all the way down to the island of Kyushu and not see somewhere else too. In addition to all of the spots that I’ve recommended in the Kuma Valley itself, the following are some easy add-ons logistically. At the end of the day, you’ll likely have a rental car at your disposal if you’re exploring the Kuma Valley, so you won’t be beholden to the normal train connections that you might rely on when traveling elsewhere in Japan.
- Gokanosho Heike-no-Sato
Situated around an hour to the north of the Kuma Valley basin, this spot was once a hideout for the defeated Heike clan. Secluded away in a forest of towering trees, this is a great option for anyone visiting during the fall months of the year. Just note that you’re going to be going deep into the forest here so this is only someplace that I’d suggest to advanced travelers. - Kumamoto City
If you’re in Kumamoto Prefecture, it would behoove you to visit Kumamoto City. Not too far away as the crow flies, this iconic location should be reachable for those of you with rental cars. While the historic Kumamoto Castle will still be undergoing repairs for some time, the main keep was finished in 2021, making it again worth your time to swing by. - Kagoshima & Kirishima
Back in the other direction, we have Kagoshima and Kirishima. This pair of destinations is also a logistically sound addition to the Kuma Valley and allows you to book a two-way flight to and from Kagoshima Airport. Likewise, you can drop off the rental car at the same place, thereby reducing potential headaches. If you opt for this, be sure to swing by Sengan-en in Kagoshima while in town! - Miyazaki City
Located about an hour or so away from Kagoshima’s airport, Miyazaki City is a great addition to the Kuma Valley. The city is home to a number of ancient shrines and is perfect for my fellow carnivores with its savory Miyazaki Beef and charcoal-grilled chicken. What’s more, the airport is really close to Miyazaki City’s center, making getting home relatively easy.
As anyone who follows me already will know, after my trip in June, I ended up going over to Miyazaki. At the time, Kumamoto and Miyazaki were two of three remaining prefectures that I’ve yet to visit. Thanks to this trip, I was able to kill two birds with one stone and write both of them off of the list. Which way you ultimately decide to focus on will come down to your individual interests so do some digging to figure out which one happens to fall within your wheelhouse.
Finally, if you want to eke out even more from the Kuma Valley, know that there are still more things to see and do in the area. While I can’t comment personally, it seems like there’s some options for adventure tourism. More specifically, fans of white water rafting will rejoice to know the Kuma River is a popular rafting spot nationwide. If this kind of thing happens to be your shtick, consider doing a bit more research.
Until next time travelers…
