One summer, we were having our regular Baemeshi (a media company I set up with Kyodo PR, my former employer) for the month of July with the now-chairman when he mentioned that he had just recently made a pilgrimage to Tokyo’s Ono Terusaki Shrine. Intrigued, I asked him what made this rather unknown spot worth his ever so precious time. Looking excited in a way that I’ve only ever seen him look when he is talking about Instagrammable food, he told me that Ono Terusaki Shrine was a hidden gem with a well-kept secret.
On that note, I’d like to welcome you back to the 15th installment of an ongoing series of articles that I’ve lovingly titled Backyard Tourism. Originally a project that I began in the summer of 2019, the goal of Backyard Tourism is to show how just about everywhere in Japan has potential if its story is done due justice. In fact, in all of my travels across the breadth of the country, I’ve never once found a location that has actually managed to disappoint me.
So, what makes Tokyo’s Ono Terusaki Shrine worth visiting? Well, this small Shinto sanctum has a unique legend associated with it that involves the practice of giving up food. Allegedly, a renowned poet and scholar in the Heian period (794–1185) named Ono-no-Takamura, who is enshrined at Ono Terusaki Shrine, would often forgo eating as a means of heightening his spiritual prowess. Famous for his ability to communicate with the other world, Ono-no-Takamura’s habit of fasting has led to Ono Terusaki Shrine being associated with the act of giving up some sort of food.
From what I learned from Kyodo PR’s chairman, it seems that many people in Tokyo make a trip to the shrine and vow to give up a specific food when praying. During his life, Ono-no-Takamura was said to have refrained from consuming eggplant. Believed to have a cooling effect that could potentially dampen one’s energy or spirit, Ono-no-Takamura sought to avoid the nightshade whenever possible. As a result, visitors to Ono Terusaki Shrine often seek to give up something as a form of devotion and spiritual discipline.
In addition to being designated as a power spot thanks to its connection with abstaining from eating some sort of food (and oddly, this extends to people who want to quit smoking too), Ono Terusaki Shrine is also well known for its beautiful goshuin stamp books. So, if you are the type of person who likes collecting these stamps as you traverse Japan, be sure to spend a few hundred yen while at Ono Terusaki Shrine to snag yourself a beautiful book. The current design can be seen above.
Finally, before we move on to some logistics, let me state that like with everywhere else featured in Backyard Tourism, I am not saying you really ought to go here. Instead, the purpose of this article is to highlight how almost everywhere in Japan has amazing potential. So, while I do encourage anyone feeling the need to give something up to swing by, don’t feel pressured to if you’d rather focus on some of the other more mainstream attractions in Tokyo!
How to Get There
It’s actually really easy to get to Ono Terusaki Shrine. All you need to do is take the Hibiya Line to Iriya Station. From there, it’s a few minutes’ walk away. Alternatively, if you don’t mind a little bit of a longer stroll, you can also access Ono Terusaki Shrine via Uguisudani Station. Since this is on Tokyo’s Yamanote Line, this option aligns a lot better with most travel itineraries. As always though, refer to Jorudan or a similar service to calculate the fastest means of reaching the shrine.
When I visited Ono Terusaki Shrine, it was on a weekend and even then, there were only a scant few people there to worship. Despite its present location being quite near to Ueno (here’s a link to a Google Map in case) in one of the busier parts of Tokyo, my time there happened to only coincide with a few other people’s praying. In other words, if you want to find a quaint little shrine to enjoy that is also not too far from Ueno Park, consider spending an hour to drop by.
Miraculously, Ono Terusaki Shrine has somehow survived throughout the ages. Originally founded sometime during the Heian period (794–1185), Ono Terusaki Shrine has been relocated a few times over the years and ultimately ended up where it is now during the Edo period (1603–1868). While some minor construction work was needed to repair the damage caused by the Great Kanto Earthquake in 1923, the current shrine architecture somehow managed to avoid getting caught in the devastation of World War II.
An Early Heian Period Scholar
There’s not too much more to say about Ono Terusaki Shrine. That said, the historical Ono-no-Takamura, who is now enshrined there as a god, is quite interesting. Previously an eminent scholar, poet, and government official at the imperial court, Ono-no-Takamura was born in the early 800s to the distinguished Ono family. This lineage had a strong tradition of scholarship and public service, and Ono-no-Takamura quickly rose to prominence at court. Though he faced exile at one point due to the turbulent nature of politics at the time, he is well regarded today for his scholastic ability.
Much like with Abe-no-Seimei, the so-called “Merlin of Japan,” Ono-no-Takamura has a number of legends that surround him, and the actual man’s achievements have been mythologized to no end. According to these folktales, Ono-no-Takamura had the rare ability to communicate with the spirits of the dead, serving as a messenger between the human world and Yomi, the Japanese realm of the deceased. This story not only adds a mystical dimension to his persona but also highlights his reputation as a figure of great wisdom and spiritual depth.
After his passing in 853, Ono-no-Takamura was deified and honored at a number of sites across the country, including Tokyo’s Ono Terusaki Shrine. These days, he is worshipped as a deity of learning and poetry, reflecting the high regard in which his intellectual and literary achievements are held. As a result of this scholastic legacy, people working in academia, entertainment, and the fine arts continue to pray to Ono-no-Takamura over other gods even today.
The Shrine’s Mini Mt. Fuji
On Ono Terusaki Shrine’s grounds, you’ll find a miniature Mt. Fuji located immediately next to the main shrine building. Both in Tokyo and in other parts of the country, you’ll often find similar slopes. They came about during the Edo period (1603–1868) when worship of Mt. Fuji started to really rise in prominence. Since travel required extensive permits at the time, many people would visit these mini hills as a symbolic means of revering the iconic mountain.
Unfortunately, it seems like Ono Terusaki Shrine’s Mt. Fuji is sealed away behind a gated fence and is only opened for the shrine’s festival in June. Thus, unless you visit on that specific date, you can’t actually climb to the top of it during your trip to this shrine. Luckily, there is another spot in Tokyo that I covered here where you can. Known as Shinagawa Shrine, this location too has a small Mt. Fuji. While nowhere near Ono Terusaki Shrine, it’s a great example of how the common folk would have honored this important Japanese symbol.
Other Nearby Attractions
If you’re going to go to Ono Terusaki Shrine, you should plan on scheduling it in combination with something else nearby in Tokyo. While I truly love this little shrine for its potential as a power spot, I can’t imagine many visitors from overseas wanting to make a visit to Iriya just for Ono Terusaki Shrine alone. Luckily, from shrines to amazing museums, there is a lot more on offer nearby.
As always, I’ll include links to a map and my prior works for anyone who wants to do some further reading…
- Ueno Park
I often say that if you only have 24 hours in Japan, you should visit Ueno Park. Found just a few stations away, Ueno Park has a little bit of everything. From the ornate Ueno Toshogu Shrine to the torii-lined path of Hanazono Inari Shrine, it’s hard to beat the convenience of having the “Tokyo version” of many Japanese highlights all collected in one spot! - Yanaka
All things considered, Yanaka might very well be one of my favorite parts of the city. Also situated but a station or two away, this part of Tokyo survived the fire bombings of World War II and therefore has a great retro vibe to it. You can learn more about this amazing part of Tokyo here in my standalone guide to the area. - Yoshiwara
Not to beat around the bush, know that this one isn’t safe for work. Formerly Japan’s most infamous pleasure quarters, Yoshiwara was a historic and important part of the Tokugawa shogunate’s city of Edo. I’ve written about it and the legacy of Japan’s seedier side in this article, so to keep this one rated PG, I’ll just direct anyone interested in learning more to check that out.
Until next time travelers…
