I’ll be straight with you, Kagoshima Prefecture is pretty cool. Comprising all of southern Kyushu, this part of Japan is blessed both with a rich history and beautiful nature. Though these days, Kagoshima is most well known for the role that it played in the downfall of the Tokugawa shogunate, the region has roots that date back further back than just the Edo period (1603–1868). For example, the prefecture is home to Kirishima Jingu, an ancient shrine that is integrally tied to the core storyline of Japanese mytho-history. Along with some other nearby locations in the area, it’s spots like these that make Kagoshima a prefecture that definitely warrants your consideration.
Before we get into how to visit Kirishima Jingu and the active volcanic mountain range on which it lies, let’s first review the legend behind the shrine for those not in the know. According to Japan’s oldest text, the Kojiki, the grandson of the sun goddess Amaterasu, the god Ninigi-no-Mikoto, descended down to Earth here from heaven. With him, Ninigi-no-Mikoto brought the legendary three imperial regalia and eventually went on to establish what became Japan’s imperial line when he married and had children with a local princess.
While Kirishima Jingu has indeed been around for many centuries, the current shrine infrastructure only dates from the early 1700s. Alas, Kirishima Jingu’s previous incarnations were all lost to volcanic eruptions and other such natural disasters over the years. Still, the main shrine buildings were designated as a national treasure in February of 2022 by the Ministry of Education, Culture, Sports, Science and Technology. What’s more, the shrine is located in the middle of a lush forest which gives Kirishima Jingu a truly tranquil vibe.
All in all, I cannot say that Kirishima Jingu is a place that in and of itself warrants a trip down to Kyushu. That said though, it does do an excellent job of rounding out any visit to Kagoshima. So if you want to see an amazingly beautiful shrine but don’t want to contend with the legions of tourists that you might find at a place like Kyoto’s Fushimi Inari Taisha, consider adding Kagoshima to your next Japan itinerary. You’ll be able to dodge many of the other travelers and see a different side of the country while you’re at it.
How to Get There
OK, let’s cover some logistics. Though situated high up in the Kirishima Mountains,, Kirishima Jingu is actually pretty easy to get to (at least in comparison to other similar sites elsewhere in Japan). Assuming that you plan on having a rental car to explore more of the prefecture, a rental car is by far the easiest means of accessing Kirishima Jingu. That said, it seems there are still ample options for public transportation. When I visited, the local powers that be drove me around so I haven’t had to make the trek myself without a driver. That aside, I have a fair bit of confidence in my research on how to get to and from Kirishima Jingu.
On that note, how you get to Kirishima Jingu will depend largely on where you’re coming from. If you’re in the capital city of Kagoshima already, you can take a train from Kagoshima-Chuo Station on the JR’s Nippo Main Line to the JR Kirishima-Jingu Station. As you’ll see if you dig around in a service like Jorudan, this will take you around 90 minutes or so. Once there, you’ll need to hop on one of the buses bound for the shrine or take a taxi over because, despite bearing its name, the nearest train station to Kirishima Jingu is actually over five kilometers away.
Since the final leg of the journey to Kirishima Shrine is going to involve taking one anyway, I would instead suggest that you eschew the train and take one of the highway buses that run from Kagoshima Airport and central Kagoshima. These will get you to Kirishima City where the shrine is located in 45 and 90 minutes respectively. Seeing as the travel times work out to be around the same, I can’t say that there is any real reason to take the train over the bus.
Finally, before moving on, allow me to note that I highly suggest you spend a night up in Kirishima Onsen either before or after visiting the shrine. Lying on the lower slopes of the Kirishima Mountains, this hot spring haven is one of Japan’s leading resorts with high quality, sulfuric hot spring waters and an interesting variety of outstanding bath facilities. By lodging up in the highlands of Kirishima, you’ll be able to take in the area and relax at your own pace.
Even if you don’t spend the night at Kirishima Onsen, I highly recommend that you drop by Sakura Sakura Onsen. This public bath is attached to a ryokan and is well known for its lightly radioactive mud. According to some healthcare experts, putting this on your skin can help beautify it. At the very least, the sight of muddy, nude bathers is pretty hilarious so do swing by while you’re in the area!
The Kirishima Jingu Shrine Grounds
Due to it being secluded away in the lush, primeval forest that grows on the lower sections of the Kirishima Mountains, a visit to Kirishima Jingu is an activity unto itself. Thus, I highly suggest that you spend a solid hour or so perusing the shrine’s grounds while there. Below, I’ve included a list of what I’d say are the “must sees” but do take your sweet time as you meander about Kirishima Jingu…
- The Honden
The main hall of Kirishima Jingu is an architectural marvel, adorned in vibrant vermillion and intricate carvings. This sacred space enshrines Ninigi-no-Mikoto, the grandson of the sun goddess Amaterasu, and serves as the spiritual heart of the shrine. Visitors come here to offer prayers and experience the serene, sacred atmosphere that permeates the area. By the way, you can check out this guide if you don’t know the proper procedure for making one’s obeisance at a shrine. - The Kagura-den
The Kagura-den is a hall dedicated to Kagura. These performances are held to honor the kami and are characterized by their graceful movements and enchanting music. Observing an authentic Kagura dance here can provide a deep insight into the rich cultural and religious traditions of the region if they happen to be doing something while you’re there. - Kirishima Jingu Museum
Adjacent to the main shrine, the Kirishima Jingu Museum offers a wealth of information about the shrine’s history, Shinto practices, and the local culture. Exhibits include ancient artifacts, traditional clothing, and detailed explanations of Kirishima Jingu’s mythology. A quick visit to this facility is essential for those looking to deepen their understanding of the shrine’s cultural significance. - Sacred Cedar Trees
Scattered throughout the shrine grounds are some truly ancient cedar trees, a handful of which are thought to be over 800 years old. These majestic trees are considered to be consecrated and are believed to house spirits. Walking among these towering cedars offers a profound connection to nature and a sense of timeless spirituality.
Finally, be sure not to miss the ryu-bashira that are in front of the main shrine. Unique to southern Kyushu, these “dragon pillars” showcase intricate carvings influenced by East Asian cultures, including the Ryukyu Kingdom and China. Their presence at Kirishima Jingu is a testament to the cultural exchange and artistic heritage of the region.
More Kirishima Jingu Shrine Allures
Historically, the entire mountain range surrounding Kirishima Jingu was considered part of the shrine’s sacred grounds. In Shinto, nature is worshiped, with mountains, forests, and other natural features often regarded as divine and imbued with spiritual significance. Like with other ancient shrine complexes in the country, Kirishima Jingu uses the entire mountain range in this regard due to it being where Ninigi-no-Mikoto descended from heaven with his sacred treasures. While the shrine now has a main hall, it used to be the mighty mountains themselves that people came to worship at.
Of all the peaks that comprise the Kirishima Mountains, Mt. Takachiho is perhaps the most sacred as this crag was the first place that Ninigi-no-Mikoto’s divine feet touched ground all those ages ago. Mt. Takachiho itself is regarded as a holy site and is a popular destination for pilgrims and hikers alike. At the summit, those who challenge the 1574 meter-tall peak will find a statue representing the Ama-no-Sakahoko, the heavenly spear that was used to create the islands of Japan by the primordial deities.
Nearby the Ama-no-Sakahoko, you’ll also find Takachiho-no-Mine Shrine (pictured above). This auxiliary shrine of Kirishima Jingu is closely linked to the main shrine both geographically and mythologically. The pair share the same spiritual heritage, venerating the same deity, Ninigi-no-Mikoto, and celebrating the same mythological event. If you do plan on getting active and hiking Mt. Takachiho while down in Kagoshima, be sure to not sleep on Takachiho-no-Mine Shrine.
Note that most trails start in Ebino Kogen. This highland can be found on the Miyazaki Prefecture side of the Kirishima Mountains and is home to a small town. Should you plan on hiking, you’ll want to study the most up-to-date maps as the volcanic eruptions in the area have led to some changes, including the temporary closure of many commonly used paths.
Other Nearby Attractions
If you’re coming to Japan’s southernmost main island, you’d be silly to not add on a lot more to any Kirishima Jingu outing. Just within Kagoshima Prefecture’s confines alone, you’ll find a slew of amazing allures to add on to your itinerary. Personally, I would like to suggest Sengan-en as this now-garden and former villa of the Shimazu family really left an impact on me when I visited. Of course, there is also the famous island of Yakushima too with its antediluvian cedar trees and “Princess Mononoke” vibes if that is more up your alley.
In addition to what you’ll find within the prefectural borders of Kagoshima, one spot that many might not consider is actually Miyazaki City. You see, you essentially need to pass through the Kirishima Mountains to get over to Miyazaki City meaning that it is quite easy to travel there once you’re done with Kirishima Shrine. If you’re looking to make a Kojiki pilgrimage to learn all about the roots of Japan’s mytho-history, this might actually make for a good travel theme.
Were I to put together a trip with this theme of the imperial family’s legacy, I’d start at Kirishima Jingu and then make my way over to Udo Jingu in Miyazaki City. From there, I’d probably savor some of the region’s amazing beef and chicken, spend a night there and then head on up to Takachiho Gorge and Amano Iwato Shrine where the sun goddess Amaterasu hid herself after a heated (and, let’s just come out and say it, quite hilarious) battle with her brother Susanoo-no-Mikoto.
Until next time travelers…
