Previously, in my exhaustive exposé on Matsuyama City, I introduced the hot spring town of Dogo Onsen. Alas, as it was an overview of all things to see and do in the region, I didn’t really have time to go deep on any one particular topic. So, in this piece, we’re going to do what many claim is Japan’s oldest natural hot spring enclave the due justice it deserves. Welcome to Dogo Onsen, a place so revered that even the imperial family of Japan frequented here to bathe.
Like with anywhere in Japan that has been around since ancient times, the origins of Dogo Onsen are shrouded in mystery. The earliest mentions we have are from the Man’yoshu, the oldest extant collection of classical Japanese poetry. Seeing as this dates from well over a millennium ago, we can at least assume that the famous onsen town has been around since the 700s when the Man’yoshu was compiled. I don’t know about you, but that is quite the historical legacy.
Nowadays, Dogo Onsen’s main allure for many international tourists is Dogo Onsen Honkan. Officially Japan’s first public bathhouse, this building has been awarded three stars in the Michelin Green Guide and is also designated a National Important Cultural Property. More famously, though, Dogo Onsen Honkan is said to be the inspiration for the bathhouse in Miyazaki Hayao’s acclaimed animated film Spirited Away. As you might imagine, this attracts visitors who are fans of Studio Ghibli in droves.
While I wouldn’t suggest that you make the trek all the way out to Matsuyama on the island of Shikoku JUST for Dogo Onsen, the hot spring town is one of many points of appeal in the area. In the latter sections of this article, I’ll cover some other nearby attractions for you to explore — like Matsuyama Castle — that combine perfectly with a visit to Dogo Onsen.
How to Get There
As always, let’s take a quick break to cover some key logistics. As those who read my previous piece on Matsuyama will already know, Dogo Onsen is located to the east of the city’s center. To begin with though, you’re actually going to need to get yourself down to Shikoku. For most people, the most expedient method of doing this will be taking a flight to Matsuyama Airport. Both JAL and ANA offer a few departures per day, making scheduling quite easy.
Personally, I am partial to taking the train down, especially if you have some sort of rail pass. While this does make the journey much longer, you can visit more of the Setouchi region over multiple days this way. For what it’s worth, there’s a limited express train called the Shiokaze, which runs from Okayama Station to the JR Matsuyama Station in a few hours. Alternatively, you could also catch a ferry from one of the many port towns along the coast of the Seto Inland Sea as well, if you’d prefer.
No matter how you get to Matsuyama City, know that the trip over to Dogo Onsen is quite easy. All you need to do is take one of the trams run by Iyotetsu over to Dogo Onsen Station, the terminus for many of these lines. To make things simpler, just refer to a service like Jorudan to help you calculate the schedules. Alternatively, you can also opt to take the half-hour walk over from the central areas of the city, where Matsuyama’s iconic castle is situated.
By the way, Dogo Onsen Station itself is quite charming. The picturesque building is a replica of the original built in 1911 and features the beautiful exterior typical of Western-style buildings from the early 1900s. Presently, it houses a Starbucks and sits right in front of the shopping arcade that leads to Dogo Onsen Honkan. When you arrive, be sure not to miss the old steam locomotive and the animated Botchan Karakuri Clock right outside the station.
Dogo Onsen Honkan’s Kami-no-Yu
According to local legend, Dogo Onsen got its start when, one day, a hurt egret found a hot spring and soaked its wounds in the rejuvenating waters day after day. Eventually, it became healed and well enough to fly off into the distance. Onlookers who had been observing this strange bird bathe daily in the hot springs eventually started following suit — and they too found that their health improved. As it tends to do, news of this spread quickly, and soon enough, Dogo Onsen was born.
Whether or not you believe the tale about the egret, it’s undeniable that Dogo Onsen has been around since time immemorial and is deserving of the title “Japan’s oldest hot spring.” At its core is none other than Dogo Onsen Honkan. Completed in 1894, this historic spa was the first public bathhouse in Japan and is designated as a National Important Cultural Property. Not to be confused with a ryokan where you can spend the night, Dogo Onsen Honkan serves one purpose and one purpose only — relaxation.
The second you step inside Dogo Onsen Honkan, you’ll find a charming, almost labyrinthine interior crafted from wood and filled with winding stairways, narrow corridors, and lively staff scurrying about — much like the fantastical bathhouse in Spirited Away, which was said to be inspired by this very spot. The facility features two gender-separated stone baths: Kami-no-Yu (lit. “The Bath of the Gods”), the larger and more frequented of the two, and Tama-no-Yu (lit. “The Bath of the Spirits”), a smaller, more refined option that’s often far less crowded.
In addition to the facilities for the public, you’ll also find the Yushinden tucked away within Dogo Onsen Honkan. This special section was built in 1899 exclusively for the Imperial Family. Though no emperor has bathed there since 1952, visitors today can take a guided tour for 500 yen to see the opulent quarters. Highlights include a lavish room with an ornate coffered ceiling, and even a private bath and toilet designated for imperial use. The tour also touches on the lore surrounding Dogo Onsen, with small exhibits of historic items like wooden bath tickets and egret-themed artwork.
When it comes to pricing, Dogo Onsen Honkan offers a tiered system depending on how deep you want to dive into the experience. The most basic option costs 700 yen and grants access to the Kami-no-Yu. For 1,300 yen, you can also relax in a public tatami room on the second floor. Stepping up to 2,000 yen adds access to the more exclusive Tama-no-Yu and a different relaxation space. At the top tier, 2,500 yen gets you a private room on the third floor, perfect for those who want solitude after soaking.
Asuka-no-Yu & Tsubaki-no-Yu
In addition to Dogo Onsen Honkan, there are also a few more public bathing facilities in the area that are worth considering if you’re still looking for another soak. For starters, there’s Asuka-no-Yu. Pictured above, this bathhouse opened relatively recently in 2017, in the lead-up to Dogo Onsen Honkan’s five-year-long renovations. Located just 150 meters to the west, Asuka-no-Yu is themed on Japan’s Asuka period (538–710), a nod to the first mention of these hot springs in the Man’yoshu.
Like with Dogo Onsen Honkan, visitors can enjoy a paid rest area on the second floor for an additional fee. Here, you’ll find a large communal space covered in traditional tatami where tea and sweets are served — a great way to unwind after a good soak. For those seeking a bit more privacy, Asuka-no-Yu also offers private rooms and even a private bath. Guests opting for these second-floor experiences will be provided with a rental yukata, and towels are included with the private room options.
Finally, there’s also Tsubaki-no-Yu. Beloved by the locals of Matsuyama City, this public bathhouse first opened in 1953 and is the most economical option in Dogo Onsen. It offers simple, gender-separated baths. That said, given the other, more famous facilities nearby, I’m not sure I would choose Tsubaki-no-Yu unless you’re a completionist and want to experience all of the hot springs in Dogo Onsen.
Local Culture & Healing Waters
Like with all other hot spring towns, there are many other things to see and do in Dogo Onsen. For starters, Isaniwa Shrine (pictured above) is a hidden gem located only a few minutes’ walk from Dogo Onsen Honkan. Though you’ll need to hoof it up a serious flight of stairs to reach the shrine’s hallowed grounds, Isaniwa Shrine is definitely worth the effort. The Shinto shrine is constructed in the traditional Hachiman architectural style and is quite breathtaking to behold.
A little further away, you’ll find Ishite-ji, the 51st temple of Shikoku’s famed Ohenro pilgrimage. Accessible from Dogo Onsen either on foot or via a quick bus ride, this temple is definitely somewhere you should make a side quest to see. Ishite-ji’s sprawling temple compound boasts a vast collection halls, a beautiful three-storied pagoda, various Buddhist statues, and a unique inner sanctum connected to the main grounds via a cave. When visiting, you’re bound to encounter a pilgrim or two as well.
Finally, you’ll definitely want to budget some time to explore the shopping arcade that leads up to Dogo Onsen Honkan. Here, you’ll find all sorts of shops where you can try local meibutsu such as mikan juice or taimeshi — a dish primarily found in the Setouchi region of Japan that comprises rice and sea bream. Whether you’re a foodie or not, both of these are delicious regional delicacies that are not to be missed when exploring Ehime Prefecture.
Other Nearby Attractions
While Dogo Onsen might be the crowning jewel of Matsuyama City, there’s so much more to see and do. Case in point: when doing research for my guide and for this article, I spent a total of four full days in this section of Ehime Prefecture. While that might be a bit much for most tourists from overseas, you can definitely eke out at least a full day in Matsuyama alone. It’s a city that is very convenient to get around, meaning you can see most of the sights with ease.
For starters, you’ll definitely want to at least drop by Matsuyama Castle. Situated high up on a 132-meter-tall bluff, this central stronghold has a commanding view of the entire city. One of only twelve Japanese fortresses to survive into the modern age, Matsuyama Castle’s rich history alone should be enough to put it on your bucket list. Note that there is actually a cable car and chair lift to the top, making it all the more easy to visit if you don’t want to hike up.
If you’re hankering for more fun, why not catch the sunset from Shimonada Station — the closest train station in Japan to the ocean? Better yet, take a limited express down to Uwajima Station and cross Uwajima Castle — another of the surviving dozen originals — off your bucket list. Thereafter, instead of returning to Tokyo or wherever via Matsuyama Airport, why not opt to take a cruise across the Seto Inland Sea? There are even routes that go all the way to Kure and Hiroshima, if you’d believe it!
Until next time travelers…
