“I feel uncertain as the days pile on, and yet, I think of crossing the Shirakawa Barrier.”
— Matsuo Basho
Alright, confession time folks. For a good while now, I have wanted to revisit the lovely area of Kawaguchiko (lit. “Lake Kawaguchi”). While I have traveled to this area of Japan several times, my adventures occurred prior to Japan’s inbound tourism boom. Since that time, the popularity of Kawaguchiko and nearby Mt. Fuji has skyrocketed thereby resulting in a massive influx of overseas travelers. Seeing as I am vehemently committed to featuring Japan’s off the beaten path destinations whenever possible, it simply hasn’t made sense for me to tangle with the throngs of tourists.
By now, you’ve likely heard of the village of Shirakawa-go in northern Gifu Prefecture. Declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site back in 1995, this iconic village in central Japan is home to a handful of perfectly preserved farmhouses, some of which are more than 250 years old. Alas, while Shirakawa-go is undeniably beautiful, it’s not the only place in the country to bear the name Shirakawa. Today, we’ll be taking a look at another spot by that name, one that arguably holds even greater historical significance. Situated on the border between the Kanto Plain and the vast reaches of Tohoku to the north, this Shirakawa has long served as the gateway to northern Japan.
If you haven’t heard of the Shirakawa in Fukushima before, you’re likely not alone. In fact, I only really uncovered it myself back in December of 2022 when I went to Kita Onsen Ryokan up in the highlands of Nasu (more on that adventure in the “Other Nearby Attractions” section of this piece). As luck would have it, I was digging around in Google Maps one evening at the traditional Japanese inn, trying to figure out what to do on the subsequent day, when I stumbled upon this Shirakawa’s Komine Castle. With the ropeway up to Mt. Chausu closed for winter, I knew that this would be my plan for the following day.
So, why would one want to visit Fukushima Prefecture’s former castle town of Shirakawa? Well, for starters, this place, which was established during the Nara period (710–794) as a bulwark between the lands of the budding Yamato state and the Emishi tribes of the north, has long been considered the gateway into and out of Japan’s Tohoku region. While nowadays the Tohoku Shinkansen races through, it used to be a strategic bastion along the Oshu Kaido. Thanks to its prominent position along this important highway, Shirakawa has long been an important center of political control throughout history.
Now, do I suggest one make an outing to Tohoku JUST to see Fukushima’s Shirakawa? Honestly, no. That said, if you have a JR East Pass (Tohoku Area) or something and want to milk it for all it’s worth, a side trip to Shirakawa en route to Japan’s northern wanderings is indeed a great add-on to some itineraries. Not only can you pay homage to the fact that this castle town used to be the gateway into Tohoku, but you can also see a few attractions like Komine Castle that few foreign tourists ever get a chance to see in Japan.
How to Get There
As far as the hidden gems in Japan that we cover on this blog are concerned, getting to Shirakawa in southern Fukushima Prefecture is actually not all that difficult. All you need to do is board one of the slower Tohoku Shinkansen trains bound for Sendai. You’ll want to ensure that you reference a service to help you plan the best departure, though far fewer bullet trains than you might expect actually stop at Shin-Shirakawa Station. My preference is always Jorudan for calculating train times, but you can use any similar service as well.
The logistical challenges only really arise once you actually get to Shin-Shirakawa Station. You see, most of this Shirakawa’s points of appeal are strewn all about the area. Thus, getting from one place to another can be a bit of a challenge. What’s more, local trains are few and far between, meaning that you’ll want to be strategic about your travels. Case in point, I simply opted to walk all the way to Komine Castle from Shin-Shirakawa Station, as taking the local train over to Shirakawa Station next to the fortress would have actually been slower.
Also, before moving on, allow me to touch on accommodations. While there are indeed your normal suite of business hotels in the region, I’d honestly recommend that you instead opt to overnight somewhere else. Personally, I’d either spend the night at one of the many ryokan in the Nasu Highlands or just continue on to Sendai. I just don’t think there is any merit to spending an evening in Shirakawa when the other alternatives are all much more attractive.
The Komine Castle Grounds
Sitting proudly atop a hill overlooking the former castle town, Komine Castle is undoubtedly the crown jewel of Shirakawa. Originally constructed in 1340 by the Yuki clan, the fortress was later rebuilt during the Edo period (1603–1868) under the command of Niwa Nagashige. Its strategic location near the Shirakawa Barrier made it a critical stronghold for controlling the flow of people and goods along the Oshu Kaido. Although the castle was largely destroyed during the Boshin War and suffered further damage from earthquakes over the years, restoration efforts have brought much of its former glory back to life, offering visitors a glimpse into Japan’s feudal past.
One of the most remarkable things about Komine Castle is how accessible it is for exploration. Unlike larger, more commercialized castles such as Osaka Castle or Himeji Castle, Komine Castle feels wonderfully intimate. Visitors can roam freely through its reconstructed wooden keep and along the stone walls that have been carefully restored after the devastating 2011 Tohoku earthquake. From the castle grounds, you’re treated to panoramic views of the surrounding Shirakawa landscape, making it an excellent spot for photographers and history buffs alike. In spring, the area comes alive with cherry blossoms, adding a romantic charm to the fortress’s rugged aesthetic.
Though Komine Castle isn’t the most easily accessible medieval stronghold in Japan (you’ll find it located here), a quick visit presents the chance to step back in time and imagine the role Shirakawa played as a political and military hub. The castle’s historical significance and the dedication to preserving its legacy make it a meaningful destination for anyone interested in Japan’s samurai era. Plus, because Komine Castle is off the beaten path for most tourists, you’ll likely have the place largely to yourself, giving you a rare opportunity to savor the serene atmosphere and sense of connection to the past without the usual crowds.
Nanko Park & Suiraku-en
Nestled just a short distance from the heart of Shirakawa, Nanko Park holds the distinction of being one of Japan’s oldest public parks. Established in 1801 by Matsudaira Sadanobu, a prominent feudal-era daimyo, the park was designed to reflect the harmonious principles of traditional Japanese landscape design. With its expansive central lake surrounded by picturesque walking paths, pine trees, and teahouses, Nanko Park offers visitors a tranquil escape steeped in both natural beauty and cultural heritage. It’s a place where history and relaxation seamlessly intertwine.
A standout feature of the park is Suiraku-en, the traditional Japanese garden pictured above that lies within Nanko Park. Meticulously maintained, Suiraku-en is a masterpiece of Japanese aesthetics, featuring winding paths, stone lanterns, small waterfalls, and koi ponds. Each element of the garden is carefully arranged to provide a sense of balance and tranquility. Whether you’re visiting in spring when the cherry blossoms bloom, summer when the greenery is lush, or autumn when vibrant hues of red and gold adorn the landscape, Suiraku-en showcases the timeless beauty of Japan’s seasonal transformations.
Though Nanko Park and Suiraku-en will require that you take a bus or walk a long way to get there, the pair is perfect for travelers seeking a slower pace, where you can immerse yourself in the elegance of Japanese garden design and the peaceful charm of the countryside. The park also provides a wonderful backdrop for photography or simply enjoying a quiet moment with a cup of green tea from one of the nearby teahouses. If you’re lucky, you might even catch a local festival or event happening in the park, adding a cultural highlight to your visit. Whether you’re a nature lover, a history enthusiast, or just looking for a serene spot to unwind, Nanko Park and Suirakuen are well worth your time.
Shirakawa-no-Seki
One of Shirakawa’s most historically significant sites is Shirakawa-no-Seki, an ancient barrier that once marked the boundary between Japan’s budding Yamato polity and the Emishi tribes who resided in the still-untamed lands of the north. Dating back to the 700s, this strategic checkpoint served both as a physical and symbolic divide, regulating the flow of people, goods, and even ideas between the central and northern regions of Japan. Shirakawa-no-Seki was one of the “Three Ancient Barriers,” alongside the Mutsu and Echizen barriers, making it a key piece of Japan’s early history.
Today, Shirakawa-no-Seki retains its significance as a quiet, contemplative space. A small Shinto shrine, Shirakawa Shrine, now stands at the site, surrounded by peaceful woods and rolling hills. Visitors can explore the shrine grounds and walk the serene trails that weave through the area, imagining what it must have been like to pass through this ancient frontier in centuries past. Historical markers and monuments dot the site, providing context and insight into Shirakawa-no-Seki’s role in Japanese history, making it an ideal spot for history buffs and those curious about Japan’s early borders.
Beyond its historical importance, the site offers a chance to step off the beaten path and experience a slice of Japan’s past that often goes unnoticed by travelers. It’s a place to connect with the stories of ancient travelers, Matsuo Basho included, who once crossed this threshold between the familiar and the unknown. Whether you’re strolling the peaceful trails, admiring the ancient stone markers, or simply soaking in the tranquil atmosphere, Shirakawa-no-Seki provides a profound sense of history and a rare glimpse into Japan’s early cultural landscape.
The Fukushima Prefecture Cultural Properties Center
For those looking to dive deeper into the historical and cultural heritage of the region, the Fukushima Prefecture Cultural Properties Center is an essential stop in Shirakawa. Serving as a repository for the area’s most important archaeological finds and historical artifacts, this museum offers a fascinating glimpse into the lives, traditions, and struggles of those who lived in Fukushima long before modern times. From ancient pottery and tools to relics from Shirakawa’s time as a strategic outpost, the center provides visitors with a well-rounded perspective on the region’s rich past.
One of the highlights of the center is its focus on the Shirakawa Barrier and its surrounding history. Exhibits explore the role Shirakawa played as a gateway to Tohoku, showcasing items uncovered from archaeological digs near the barrier and other nearby sites. Additionally, the museum provides context on the broader historical development of the area, including insights into the Emishi tribes, the evolution of the Oshu Kaido highway, and the legacy of Komine Castle. Interactive displays and detailed models make the experience both educational and engaging, catering to visitors of all ages.
Though not a must-visit per se for everyone, the Fukushima Prefecture Cultural Properties Center is indeed one of the best places to gain a deeper appreciation for Shirakawa and its historical importance. While landmarks like Komine Castle and Shirakawa-no-Seki bring history to life, the center fills in the details, connecting the dots and providing a clearer understanding of the region’s place in Japan’s story. If you’re someone who loves learning about the past or enjoys a quieter activity on a busy travel itinerary, this cultural center is well worth your time. Plus, it’s a great way to round out your visit to Shirakawa by adding depth and context to what you’ve already seen!
Other Nearby Attractions
Seeing as Shirakawa is the gateway into Tohoku, it should stand to reason that it’s a great jumping-off point for anyone heading north. Thus, the entire region awaits your exploration from here on out. As detailing EVERYTHING in Tohoku would be waaaaay beyond the scope of this piece, I’ll instead direct anyone keen on traveling that way to do their own research. After all, Shirakawa is the kind of location that fits into a Tohoku itinerary, not the other way around. Do yourselves a favor and dig around on your own, as there is so much to see and do in Tohoku!
What I will say is that if you’re keen to take it slow and destination-hop your way up, I’d like to recommend a stop in the Nasu Highlands, located just to the south of Shirakawa in the foothills of Mt. Chausu. This scenic area is known for its relaxing hot springs, charming ryokan, and lush natural beauty. While there, be sure not to miss the Sessho-seki (lit. “Killing Stone”). According to legend, this boulder is where the infamous nine-tailed fox spirit, Tamamo-no-Mae, was imprisoned. Supposedly, the stone emitted poisonous gases for centuries afterward, adding an eerie allure to the area. Today, the Sessho-seki is an intriguing mix of history, yokai folklore and stunning landscapes.
If you do go to the Nasu Highlands, I can’t recommend highly enough that you spend the night at Kita Onsen Ryokan. Formerly a refuge for yamabushi training in this rugged part of Nasu, the traditional inn boasts buildings that date back to the 1800s. As can be seen in the iconic picture of Kita Onsen Ryokan’s Tengu bath, the facility still retains a lot of its roots as a place for weary mountain ascetics to relax and ease their minds after a long day of spiritual ardors. Even if you don’t continue on to Tohoku as I did when originally visiting Shirakawa, a stay at Kita Onsen Ryokan pairs perfectly with a visit to the castle town.
Until next time travelers…
