Even over a decade ago, back at the start of Japan’s tourism boom, Nikko was never somewhere one could describe as off the beaten path. While nowhere near as bad as Kyoto or Senso-ji in terms of crowding, this cluster of shrines and temples in Tochigi Prefecture, much of which sits within Nikko National Park, is about as mainstream as it gets. Still, even within a popular destination like Nikko, there are plenty of places that most visitors don’t drop by. So, while the Nikko Toshogu Shrine may indeed get more than its fair share of tourists, there are ample other attractions, like the Kanmangafuchi Abyss in Nikko, where you can go to escape the crowds.
To be honest with you, I need to come clean here and say that the Kanmangafuchi Abyss is not exactly unknown per se. In fact, every time I’ve gone there, there have always been at least a few other overseas travelers, so it is not some obscure hidden gem or anything — at least not by the standards of this blog. Alas, there is just something about the spot that keeps bringing me back whenever I find myself in Nikko. Between the long row of Jizo statues and the refreshing forest air, the Kanmangafuchi Abyss is the perfect way to relax for a few minutes after exploring the other, more crowded World Heritage shrines and temples.
Seeing as the destination really needs no introduction, I debated even publishing this post about the Kanmangafuchi Abyss in Nikko. However, after a recent visit with family as part of a larger outing to Kinugawa Onsen and Fukushima’s Aizu region, I figured that I might as well go ahead, despite Nikko itself already struggling to handle all of the tourists who flock there. At the end of the day, I wanted to use the Kanmangafuchi Abyss as just one example of how much more there is to see and do here beyond Nikko Toshogu Shrine and the iconic Shinkyo Bridge.
So, on that note, if you ever find yourself in Nikko, leave ample time to visit Kanmangafuchi Abyss. It’s located only a short distance away from Futarasan Shrine, Taiyuin-byo, and Nikko Toshogu Shrine but feels worlds away from these more crowded spots. And, as with a trip up to Lake Chuzen-ji and Kegon Falls, the Kanmangafuchi Abyss and other spots like it are what transform a trip to Nikko from a walk down the well-worn path into a multi-day adventure in Tochigi Prefecture.
How to Get There
Let’s take a quick second and pause for some logistics so that you can reach the Kanmangafuchi Abyss in Nikko without any issues. At the risk of stating the obvious, you’ll first need to make your way up here. Assuming that you’re coming from Tokyo, the easiest way to access this part of the country is to take a limited express train up to Tobu-Nikko Station from Asakusa. As always, though, just refer to a service like Jorudan to help you calculate which train will be the most expedient.
Once you’re in Nikko, getting to Kanmangafuchi Abyss is quite easy. The quaint spot is located down in a gorge along the riverbanks of the Daiyagawa. My preferred path is to come down the slope from Futarasan Shrine and then cross through a charming residential area. Especially during the hot summer heat, this eliminates a lot of the ups and downs that you’d otherwise encounter if you visited the Kanmangafuchi Abyss after the more famous World Heritage shrines and temples.
Personally, Nikko is always somewhere that I walk. There is just something about exploring the place on foot that I feel you miss when taking a bus. That said, if you’re not a weirdo like me, it looks like the Kanmangafuchi Abyss has quite easy access via the local Tobu bus network. If my Google Maps research is correct, you just need to hop on one bound for Chuzen-ji Onsen or Yumoto Onsen and get off at the Tamozawa bus stop. To be honest, though, it’s just as easy to walk down from Futarasan Shrine.
Beyond Nikko’s Toshogu Shrine
As noted, there is a heck of a lot more in Nikko beyond just the damn Toshogu Shrine and the Shinkyo Bridge (see my standalone area guide to Nikko for an in-depth look at what I mean). Yes, they are the highlights, but it’s spots like the Kanmangafuchi Abyss that make the greater Nikko area far more than just a day trip. So, without further ado, let’s talk about why this locale needs to be on your Nikko itinerary. Because, after all, who doesn’t like the sound of ghostly Jizo statues that allegedly change their count every time you try? Wait what?!?
Known as the Bake Jizo, or literally the “Ghost Jizo,” these stone statues are the main reason most people make the walk out to the Kanmangafuchi Abyss. According to local legend, anyone who counts the figures twice will somehow never arrive at the same number. Whether that is due to supernatural interference or the fact that many of the weathered statues blend into one another is for you to decide. Either way, the row of Jizo effigies along the river, many of which wear bright red bibs and red hats, makes for one of the most memorable sights in Nikko.
Interestingly enough, what survives today is only a fraction of what once stood along the Daiyagawa. Around 100 Jizo statues were originally donated during the 17th century by followers of the monk Tenkai as prayers for the souls of the dead, while Jiun-ji and the nearby Reihikaku pavilion were established by his disciple Kokai in 1654. Unfortunately, a massive flood tore through the gorge in 1902, destroying the original temple buildings, washing away numerous statues, and carrying off a large stone image of Fudo Myoo. Mother Nature, it seems, was not especially concerned with preserving the full collection for future tourists.
Today, around 70 Jizo statues remain lined up along the riverside path, though even that number varies depending on who is doing the counting. Jiun-ji and Reihikaku were eventually reconstructed in the 20th century, and the small pavilion still shelters the stone altar once used for Buddhist fire rituals. The entire area is quite compact, so you do not need to set aside half a day to explore it. Instead, the Kanmangafuchi Abyss works best as a quiet detour after the far more elaborate World Heritage shrines and temples, especially when the crowds around Toshogu Shrine start testing the limits of your patience.
Of course, if you’re a nature lover, the Bake Jizo are only part of the appeal. The path follows the Daiyagawa through a narrow gorge carved into lava from Mt. Nantai and filled with moss-covered boulders and thick forest. During summer, the lush greenery turns the entire area into a retreat from the heat, while autumn replaces those shades of green with the majestic fall foliage that Nikko is famous for. Add in the rushing water and refreshing countryside air, and it is easy to understand why I keep returning whenever I find myself in this neck of the woods.
The Flow Down from Kegon Falls
One thing that makes the Kanmangafuchi Abyss especially interesting is that the Daiyagawa flowing alongside it is not some isolated little waterway. Follow its waters upstream, and they eventually lead all the way back to Lake Chuzen-ji in the mountains of Oku-Nikko. From there, the Daiyagawa flows eastward before taking a rather dramatic 97-meter plunge over Kegon Falls. In other words, the gentle-looking current passing the Bake Jizo is directly connected to two of the most iconic natural attractions in the greater Nikko area.
This connection is easy to overlook when exploring Nikko piecemeal. Lake Chuzen-ji and Kegon Falls feel like an entirely separate destination when you reach them by bus after climbing the winding Irohazaka roads, while the Kanmangafuchi Abyss sits within walking distance of the World Heritage shrines and temples. Geographically, though, these places are all part of the same system. The water that leaves the lake, crashes over the falls, and continues down through the mountains eventually passes right beside the many-meter-long row of red-bibbed Jizo statues before flowing under Shinkyo Bridge.
By the time the Daiyagawa reaches Kanmangafuchi, it has traded the grand spectacle found farther upstream for a much narrower passage through volcanic rock. The current squeezes between enormous boulders and weathered lava formations, creating the channels and pools that give the gorge its distinctive appearance. This also helps explain why the area can feel so removed from central Nikko despite being only a short walk away. Nikko’s Toshogu Shrine has gold leaf, elaborate carvings, and hordes of visitors, while Kanmangafuchi lets moving water and old stone handle the decorating.
More importantly, the Daiyagawa ties together the wider Nikko itinerary that this article has been banging on about from the start. These natural attractions are not random spots scattered across Tochigi Prefecture. They are different points along the same natural corridor, stretching from the heights of Oku-Nikko down toward the historic center of town. Following that connection makes the greater Nikko area easier to understand and reinforces why I opted to included it as a trip anchor to plan around on my list of 60 places to go in Japan.
Other Nearby Attractions
As alluded to before, the entire point of my publishing this post on the Kanmangafuchi Abyss is to showcase how there is so much more to Nikko than what most people think. Right by the gorge are the Nikko Botanical Garden and Nikko Tamozawa Imperial Villa Memorial Park. The former sits across the Daiyagawa, while the latter is only about a 10-minute walk away. Between Kanman Park, these two and the Kanmangafuchi Abyss itself, there is already enough here to occupy several hours without going anywhere near the masses at Nikko Toshogu Shrine.
Of course, the biggest argument against treating Nikko as a day trip sits farther up in the mountains around Lake Chuzen-ji. Reaching this neck of the woods requires climbing the winding Irohazaka roads, preferably on a weekday during autumn unless sitting in traffic is part of your idea of a good time. Once there, you have Kegon Falls, Chuzen-ji, another Futarasan Shrine, and the commanding views from Akechidaira Plateau. As someone who ignored this part of Nikko for far too many years, allow me to chide you in advance for making the same mistake.
Alternatively, an older two-day itinerary of mine devoted the first day to central Nikko before shifting over to Kinugawa Onsen on the second. This hot spring town occupies a mountain valley lined with large ryokan, many of which date their popularity back to Japan’s economic bubble. From there, the obvious attraction is Edo Wonderland, a historical theme park where costumed performers recreate life during the Edo period (1603–1868). Between the samurai, ninja, optical illusions, and the opportunity to dress up and join the proverbial cast, it is a far more entertaining second day than immediately retreating to Tokyo.
While I am on my greater Nikko high horse, allow me to also rant about Yunishigawa Onsen, Kawaji Onsen, and Ryuokyo. The first began as a secluded refuge for members of the defeated Taira clan and still trades heavily on that history through Heike-no-Sato, its traditional ryokan, and the winter Kamakura Festival. Meanwhile, Kawaji Onsen pairs perfectly with nearby Ryuokyo, a 3-kilometer gorge formed through volcanic activity and centuries of erosion. Both destinations are particularly photogenic in autumn, when the mountains exchange their usual greenery for an entirely different wardrobe.
Finally, for those who want to follow in my footsteps, Nikko can serve as the opening act for a larger journey into Fukushima Prefecture’s Aizu region. Rather than returning directly to Tokyo, continue north along the Yagan Railway toward Aizu-Tajima and work your way through to Ouchijuku. From there, explore Sazaedo, the former samurai district, and Tsuruga Castle before looping back through Koriyama. It is an ambitious itinerary, but it shows just how badly the standard Nikko day trip undersells this entire corner of Japan.
Until next time travelers…
