Let me begin by saying that if you’re here for advice on cycling, where to get a bike rental, etc., you’ve come to the wrong place. While I’ll, of course, touch on these topics in this piece on the famed Shimanami Kaido cycling route, the main takeaway I want to impart to you, dear readers, is that it ought to be done slowly. You see, far too many people snag themselves a set of wheels and blitz through the Shimanami Kaido like it’s something to be completed, not savored. Alas, there are so many hidden allures on the islands that make up the path from Onomichi to Imabari.
In case any of you haven’t heard of the Shimanami Kaido before, know that this roughly 70-kilometer bike route follows a highway across six islands in the Seto Inland Sea, connecting mainland Japan with Shikoku to the south. It’s easily explorable by rental car or even highway bus if you don’t mind navigating the logistics of countryside travel. That said, the Shimanami Kaido is best known as something of a pilgrimage for cyclists. Along the main route that cars travel, there are clearly marked lanes for bicycles, and enthusiasts from all over flock to this part of the country to partake.
Sadly, though, most people who ride the Shimanami Kaido do it wrong. There is so much to explore on each of the islands that comprise the chain, and trying to get to Imabari in one go means missing some of my favorite attractions in all of Japan. What’s more, the ride is not an easy one. The ascents up the hills to the bridge crossings are no walk in the park, and attempting the route’s total length on the same day is just not something I can recommend to all but the experienced cyclists out there.
How much is there to do along the Shimanami Kaido, you ask? Well, there are so many points of interest out on those islands that I even named the Shimanami Kaido one of my 60 trip anchors. These are the kinds of places that you can plan your entire Japan itinerary around. And when you account for what you can do in Onomichi and Imabari, as well as beyond in the rest of Shikoku, you could easily spend the better part of a week enjoying the Shimanami Kaido at your leisure. Trust me when I say it’s a lot more satisfying when done slowly and at your own pace.
How to Get There
If you’ve stumbled upon this article on the Shimanami Kaido, you probably already know a thing or two about the logistics of getting there. For those of you who don’t, let’s take a quick second to cover the basics. To begin with, you’ll need to make your way to the port town of Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture. Though I encourage you to leave the heavy lifting of calculating connections to a service like Jorudan, the easiest way for most people will be to take the Shinkansen to Fukuyama Station and then transfer to the local JR Sanyo Main Line.
Truth be told, I suggest most people arrive at Onomichi Station the day before they plan to embark on their journey along the Shimanami Kaido. Even if you plan on doing it over the course of a few days, you’ll want to get an early start so that you can enjoy what awaits. This will also give you ample room to get to your lodging, check in, and relax rather than huff and puff to make it to Imabari by sundown. If you’re looking for a place to stay, Azumi Setoda on Ikuchijima is a top-tier ryokan, but there are plenty of more affordable options too.
Technically, you can do the reverse and come up the Shimanami Kaido from Shikoku to Onomichi. If this works well for your itinerary, by all means do it. That said, I find that plans more easily come together when you add Shikoku to the end, meaning that it’s better to do the Shimanami Kaido cycling route from Onomichi to Imabari rather than the reverse. Either way works, though, and cyclists can arrange a bike rental and drop off standard rental bikes at terminals along the way. Honestly, the Shimanami Kaido has a lot of flexibility to it, and you can make it into whatever shape you’d like.
Finally, note that you don’t need to do the entire Shimanami Kaido by bike if you don’t want to. There are a number of spots along the way where you can return your bike, meaning that it’s entirely possible to enjoy a short ride and then leave the real cycling to the professionals. After all, nothing ruins a trip to Japan like overestimating your fitness level, bonking at the halfway point, and passing out in the summer heat. Likewise, be sure to arrange luggage forwarding or storage so you aren’t trying to bike with a big-ass backpack or something.
Begin at Onomichi Station
Before you even take off along the Shimanami Kaido, you’ll want to spend at least a little bit of time exploring the port town of Onomichi in Hiroshima Prefecture. Far too many cyclists roll into town, grab their rental bike, and immediately make for the ferry without seeing anything beyond the starting line. This is a shame because Onomichi has enough historic temples, narrow alleyways, old shopping streets, and waterfront charm to justify arriving at least a day early. The town was an important shipping center on the Seto Inland Sea for centuries, and much of its nostalgic appeal comes from the way the urban core is wedged between the water and the surrounding hills.
Definitely drop by Senko-ji (the “Temple of a Thousand Lights”) and take in the panoramic views before setting off. The temple sits above central Onomichi and overlooks the port, the channel, and the islands that you’ll soon be cycling toward. You can either hoof it up through the hillside lanes or take the Mt. Senko-ji Ropeway and save your legs for the Shimanami Kaido. From there, wander back down through the narrow streets, the Path of Literature, and Neko-no-Hosomichi (“Cat Alley”) if painted stones and the occasional feline are your sort of thing.
Onomichi also has its share of local yummies and trust me, you’re going to need the calories on the Shimanami Kaido. The best-known is Onomichi ramen, which uses a soy sauce-based soup, springy noodles, and ingredients connected to the nearby Seto Inland Sea. You’ll find plenty of places serving it around Onomichi Hondori, a roughly 1.6-kilometer shopping street that runs through the center of town. There are also cafes and restaurants near the waterfront and Onomichi U2, so there is little reason to begin a long day of cycling on an empty stomach.
Enjoy Ikuchijima’s Island Allures
The first place that makes the case for lingering is Kosan-ji. Located on Ikuchijima, this sprawling temple complex was founded in 1936 by the industrialist Kosanji Kozo as a tribute to his late mother and took more than 30 years to complete. While Kosan-ji lacks the ancient pedigree of many of Japan’s better-known temples, it makes up for this with sheer scale and spectacle. Many of its buildings were modeled after famous religious sites elsewhere in the country, including Nikko Toshogu’s Yomeimon Gate and Byodo-in’s Phoenix Hall.
There is a surprising amount to see once you enter the grounds. In addition to the ornate halls and gates, Kosan-ji contains the Cave of 1,000 Buddhas, a winding underground passage that depicts a symbolic descent into Buddhist hell through paintings, statues, and dimly lit corridors. After surviving the proverbial underworld, you’ll emerge beside a 15-meter-tall statue of Kannon — the Buddhist deity of mercy and compassion. There is also Choseikaku Villa, a Japanese and Western-style residence built in 1927 as a private retreat for Kosanji Kozo’s mother, though the cave and Kannon statue are the real standouts for most visitors.
Even with all of that, the star of the show is Miraishin-no-Oka (the English version is often listed as the “Hill of Hope”), a vast marble garden that rises behind the temple complex. Designed by the sculptor Kuetani Itto over 16 years, the hillside contains around 3,000 tons of Carrara marble imported from Italy and covers more than 5,000 square meters. The garden has no overt religious meaning and instead uses terraces, stairways, and abstract sculptures to represent familial ties and hope for the future. At the top sits the Tower of Hope, along with Cafe Cuore, which is likewise fashioned from the same white marble.
Ikuchijima has plenty beyond Kosan-ji, too. Nearby, the Hirayama Ikuo Museum of Art showcases the work of the Setoda-born Nihonga painter, while Shiomachi Shotengai runs for roughly 600 meters between the temple and Setoda Port. This is also Japan’s proverbial lemon island, with citrus groves supplying sweets, drinks, and other local treats wherever you turn. Farther along the cycling route, the white sand beach at Setoda Sunset Beach provides an obvious place to stop before the road climbs through Lemon Valley toward the Tatara Bridge.
Beyond the Standard Bike Route
Further along the path from Ikuchijima, there is the venerable Oyamazumi Shrine. This ancient sanctum sits too inconveniently far from the main cycling route for anyone doing the Shimanami Kaido in a day to realistically include. Located on the western side of the island of Omishima, Oyamazumi Shrine is the head shrine of the former Iyo Province and of the thousands of Yamazumi and Mishima shrines found across Japan. Its long ties to warriors, sailors, and safe passage also make it one of the most historically consequential stops along the entire route.
As the name might suggest, Oyamazumi Shrine is dedicated to Oyamazumi-no-Okami, an ancient kami associated with mountains, the sea, and safe passage. The grounds are centered around an enormous camphor tree said to be roughly 2,600 years old, while around 200 other old specimens surround the sanctuary. Deeper inside, the present main hall dates to 1427 and is designated an Important Cultural Property. For centuries, warriors and sailors passing through the Seto Inland Sea came here to pray for protection and victory.
The treasure hall is what truly sets the shrine apart. Oyamazumi Shrine is said to hold roughly 40 percent of all the arms and armor in Japan designated as National Treasures or Important Cultural Properties. The collection includes swords, naginata, helmets, and armor associated with figures such as Minamoto-no-Yoshitsune, Benkei, Hojo Tokimune, and Tomoe Gozen. There are so many priceless artifacts crammed into the old display cases that the entire place feels more like a forgotten rural archive than one of Japan’s great repositories of samurai history.
Omishima has more to offer than the shrine alone. It is home to several art and architecture facilities, including the Omishima Museum of Art, the Tokoro Museum Omishima, and the Ito Toyo Architectural Museum. Many of these sit along the coast and well away from the standard cycling route. Alas, the Shimanami Kaido keeps rewarding anyone willing to stop treating the blue line like a set of marching orders.
The “Pirates” of the Seto Inland Sea
The single best reason to take your time on the Shimanami Kaido, though, is the “pirates” of the Seto Inland Sea. Now, before you go envisioning ruffled shirts, cutlasses, and Captain Jack Sparrow, the English word pirate is probably the wrong one to use here. The Japanese term Kaizoku (literally, “sea bandit”) works better as a borrowed proper noun, much like samurai or ninja, because it carries fewer of the wrong connotations. In practice, these figures often functioned as naval commanders, toll collectors, guides, and protectors rather than simple marauders. But I digress.
Anyway, who were these seafaring figures? Well, the most prominent were the Murakami Suigun, a loose maritime dynasty that controlled much of the Seto Inland Sea during the Warring States period (1467–1600). The group was divided into three related families based around Noshima, Innoshima, and Kurushima, each of which commanded a different portion of these waters. Rather than merely robbing passing ships, they guided merchants through dangerous currents, collected tolls, offered protection, and fought naval battles on behalf of powerful daimyo. In essence, they operated something akin to maritime traffic control for feudal Japan.
For the history buffs out there, the Murakami Suigun could wield this much power because the Seto Inland Sea is far more difficult to navigate than its calm appearance suggests. Water rushes through its narrow channels with every tidal cycle, creating strong tidal currents, whirlpools, and natural chokepoints that outsiders could not easily read. The Murakami understood these waters better than anyone and used that knowledge to control trade and military movement throughout the region. Their reign eventually came to an end after Toyotomi Hideyoshi banned piracy in 1588, but their legacy remains scattered across the islands of the Shimanami Kaido.
The best place to unpack this history is the Murakami KAIZOKU Museum on Oshima. Its three floors contain ship models, excavated artifacts, armor, documents, and exhibits covering the rise and decline of the Murakami Suigun. Better still, the upper observation gallery looks out toward the ruins of Noshima Castle, which once occupied a pair of small islands surrounded by powerful currents. Boat tours also circle the former stronghold, letting you see Noshima the way the Murakami’s clients once did.
The museum is far from the only spot tied to these seafaring lords. On Innoshima, the reconstructed Innoshima Suigun Castle displays weapons, documents, and ship models tied to the local branch of the clan, while nearby Konren-ji served as their family temple. Mt. Shirataki is another worthwhile detour, with hundreds of Rakan statues and sweeping views over the waterways the Murakami once controlled. Innoshima also holds an annual festival celebrating the Murakami Suigun, so there are plenty of places to keep following their legacy beyond the museum.
Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge & Mt. Kiro
By the time you reach the southern end of Oshima, the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge awaits as the grand finale of the Shimanami Kaido. Stretching for roughly four kilometers, this triple suspension bridge is actually a series of three consecutive spans linking the island with Imabari on Shikoku. The crossing takes you high above the Kurushima Strait, where powerful tidal currents funnel ships through the narrow waterways below. After days of smaller bridges and island roads, this final span feels appropriately ridiculous in scale.
Before crossing, though, anyone with a little time and sufficient life remaining in their legs should consider making the detour up Mt. Kiro. Located at the southern end of Oshima, the mountain rises more than 300 meters above the Seto Inland Sea and is capped by an observation deck designed by Kengo Kuma. Be warned that the road to the summit is a punishing climb, especially for cyclists who have already crossed several islands. This is exactly the sort of detour that becomes possible when you stop treating the route like a 70-kilometer time trial.
The reward is one of the defining panoramic views of the Shimanami Kaido cycling route. From the summit, the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge unfurls across the strait below, weaving past the small islands that break up the crossing toward Imabari. On clear days, the panorama reaches as far as Mt. Ishizuchi, while the observatory itself has been embedded into the mountaintop so that it does not rudely intrude on the scenery. It also gives you the rare chance to appreciate the full scale of the final crossing before tackling it yourself.
After Pulling into Imabari Station
Once you finally roll off the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge, don’t make the mistake of treating Imabari as nothing more than the place where you ditch your rental bike. This port city in Ehime Prefecture has long been an important strategic point on the Seto Inland Sea, first under the Murakami Suigun and later as a castle town during the age of the Tokugawa shoguns. These days, Imabari is best known for shipbuilding and producing more towels than any reasonable person could ever hope to fold. While I wouldn’t build an entire trip around the city, it is absolutely worth setting aside a few hours before continuing deeper into Shikoku.
Chief among the places to see is Imabari Castle. Facing the Seto Inland Sea, this stronghold is one of Japan’s three oceanside castles, with seawater flowing directly into its moat. The original complex was dismantled at the end of the Edo period (1603–1868), and the current keep is a ferro-concrete reconstruction, but the stone walls and watery defenses still make it an impressive sight. Inside, the museum traces the history of Imabari as a castle town and maritime hub. The elevated keep also gives you one final look back toward the Kurushima Kaikyo Bridge and the route you just completed.
You’ll also want to replenish the calories that the Shimanami Kaido has so rudely extracted from your body. Imabari’s local specialty is yakibuta tamago meshi, a bowl of rice topped with seasoned pork, lightly fried eggs, and a sweet, peppery sauce. Afterward, Shimanami Hot Spring Kisuke-no-Yu sits only a few minutes from Imabari Station and provides a far more civilized ending to the ride than immediately boarding a train while still covered in sweat. Between the pork, eggs, and a proper soak, Imabari gives both your legs and dignity a chance to recover.
Those with extra time can also visit Nankobo-ji, the 55th temple on the Shikoku Henro pilgrimage, or venture farther out to the Towel Museum Ichihiro. The latter sounds like something invented during a fever dream, but it showcases the textile industry that made Imabari famous through working machinery, art installations, and enough fluffy merchandise to replace everything in your bathroom. At the very least, spend a little time seeing the city before hopping aboard the next Shiokaze Limited Express back toward Okayama.
Other Nearby Attractions
Don’t cross the Shimanami Kaido just to say that you did it and then neglect to explore more of Shikoku. If you’re heading back toward Okayama, western Kagawa Prefecture lies along the general route and is actually another one of my 60 trip anchors. This corner of Japan is small enough to look manageable on a map but packed with enough shrines, castles, coastal scenery, and pilgrimage history to keep you occupied for several days. Better yet, many of its highlights fit naturally into the journey back toward Honshu, so there is little reason to simply pass them by.
The main religious heavyweight is Kotohira-gu, an ancient shrine dedicated to Omononushi and long associated with safe passage at sea. Reaching the main sanctuary requires climbing 785 stone steps up Mt. Zozu, though the old pilgrimage town, Omote Shoin, and numerous sub-shrines give you plenty of excuses to stop along the way. Farther west, Takaya Shrine sits high above Kan-onji and looks out over the Seto Inland Sea through its famous “torii in the sky.” Between these two sanctums alone, western Kagawa is going to demand yet another donation from your already abused legs.
There is plenty beyond the shrines too. Marugame Castle is one of Japan’s 12 surviving original keeps, while Chichibugahama becomes a giant coastal mirror when low tide and sunset cooperate. Nearby, Kotohiki Park contains the enormous Zenigata sand coin, and Mt. Shiude is one of the region’s better cherry blossom viewpoints. You won’t cram all of that into a hurried return journey, so either stay somewhere around Marugame or Kotohira or accept that you’ll need to come back.
Alternatively, head west from Imabari and spend a few days in Matsuyama. Ehime Prefecture’s capital is itself another trip anchor, with Matsuyama Castle, one of the country’s 12 original keeps, standing high above the city center. Down below, Dogo Onsen is one of Japan’s most famous historic hot spring districts, centered around the venerable Dogo Onsen Honkan. Add in the Botchan Train, Bansuiso, Ishite-ji, and Isaniwa Shrine, and Matsuyama has more than enough to justify a proper stay rather than a rushed overnight stop.
Matsuyama also works well as a base for exploring more of Ehime Prefecture. To the south, the preserved streets of Ozu and Uchiko offer old merchant homes, historic residences, and the rebuilt keep of Ozu Castle. Shimonada Station sits beside the Seto Inland Sea and has become one of the country’s most photographed rural stations, while farther-flung Uwajima rewards anyone willing to continue deeper into southern Ehime. Either way, the end of the Shimanami Kaido opens just as easily onto the rest of Shikoku.
Until next time travelers…
