Japan never ceases to amaze me. The more I travel, the more I discover just how deep the proverbial rabbit hole goes when it comes to this amazing country. Just when I think I have seen all I need to in a place, I am blindsided by something new like the Tanesashi Coast. Running along the northern part of the much longer Michinoku Coastal Trail, this seaside stretch in Hachinohe might very well be one of the most spectacular sights I’ve come across in recent memory. And, while I’ve known it existed for some time, I had no idea just how magical a Tanesashi Coast hike would actually be.
For those of you who have never heard of the Tanesashi Coast (or the greater Michinoku Coastal Trail for that matter), know that this massive trail runs all the way from Matsukawaura in Fukushima’s Soma City to the isle of Kabushima up in Aomori Prefecture. In its entirety, it’s a semi-popular but not well-known long-distance trek, albeit one that’s not as well known as the Kumano Kodo or Shikoku’s Ohenro pilgrimage. Characterized by its epic coastal views and jagged, stony shoreline, this portion of the country is extremely beautiful and largely free of any sort of mass tourism.
Truth be told, this is not the first time I’ve encountered the Tanesashi Coast. Back when I visited Hachinohe years ago, I explored the very tip of the stretch. Alas, pressed for time, I only had the opportunity to explore Kabushima Shrine and marvel at the sheer number of seagulls that call the island upon which it sits home. Little did I know that one of the best and most easily accessible parts of the Michinoku Coastal Trail sat just to the south. Well, sure, I knew it was there, but I didn’t realize its potential as someplace worth visiting for a day-long outing.
So, on that note, allow me to recommend anyone looking to add a coastal walking trail to their plans for Japan check out the Tanesashi Coast. While the entirety of the Michinoku Coastal Trail is obviously a far larger undertaking, this northernmost section can easily be tackled by the average traveler. Better still, the route packs a remarkable amount of variety into a relatively manageable distance, with everything from rocky shoreline and sweeping ocean views to grassy meadows and pockets of forest along the way. Throw in the fact that the Tanesashi Coast sees only a fraction of the visitors that descend upon Japan’s better-known walking routes, and you have the makings of one hell of an adventure.
How to Get There
As alluded to above, the Tanesashi Coast is located within the city limits of Hachinohe. This means you’ll first need to take the Tohoku Shinkansen to Hachinohe Station and then make your way down from there. Personally, I suggest spending a night at one of the business hotels in the city like Dormy Inn and then tackling the Tanesashi Coast on the following day. This way, you can get an early start on the day and leave ample time to grab the bus or train back without worrying about the sparse transportation up in this rural part of the Japanese countryside.
The northern terminus of the Michinoku Coastal Trail is the island on which sits Kabushima Shrine. While you’re free to do as you see fit, I would wager that a more logistically sound way to trek the Tanesashi Coast would be to do it in reverse. Rather than start at Kabushima, my preferred path is to work your way up and end at Same Station. To do this, take an early train on the JR Hachinohe Line to Okuki Station (check departure information with a service like Jorudan the day before) and then walk your way back along the coastline to Same Station, where you can catch the train.
As for how long the walk itself takes, I would budget around half a day if you’re moving at a reasonable clip. The full stretch between Okuki Station and Kabushima is generally estimated at around six hours, but you can shave some time off that if you’re not stopping constantly along the way. Of course, how long you actually spend out there will depend on how often you stop for photos, detour down to the shoreline, or simply take in the scenery. Either way, this is not some grueling all-day expedition. Start early enough in the morning and you should have plenty of time to make your way back.
Finally, while I am still on my travel logistics soapbox, allow me to also state that this region is rather famous for being difficult to traverse due to the low frequency of the trains and buses. Though Hachinohe is indeed a mid-sized city in Tohoku, public transportation becomes rather sparse once you get out along the coast, meaning that you might be caught waiting quite some time for the next option. Be sure to check out my in-depth guide to traveling in the countryside and pay close attention to the timetable. Missing a departure up here can easily mean waiting an hour or more for the next one.
From Okuki Station to Same Station
If you’re following my advice and plan to enjoy the Tanesashi Coast in reverse, you’ll be starting your adventure at Okuki Station. From there, it’s a short walk to where the trail begins. That said, I want to be upfront and say that the opening sections are almost worth skipping due to being largely overgrown and having no view. Essentially, you’ll be making your way through a densely forested area where the path is largely overgrown with greenery. So, unless you’re a completionist, it might be better to choose a different starting point for your hike.
Though I obviously opted to do the entire trek, more sensible travelers should begin their outing at the Tanesashi Natural Lawn. Thankfully, the Tanesashi Natural Lawn is also one of the more accessible points along the route thanks to nearby Tanesashi Kaigan Station. From there, you can hoof it over on foot. Alternatively, the seasonal Umineko sightseeing bus also stops right at the Tanesashi Coast Information Center. Which will work better for you comes down to your own schedule, so if you’re not going to go for the entire Tanesashi Coast trail from start to end, just plug your current location into Google Maps and let it determine which of the two is more expedient.
The Tanesashi Natural Lawn
The Tanesashi Natural Lawn is one of the defining features of this stretch of coastline and, as the name suggests, consists of a broad expanse of grass running right up toward the Pacific. Interestingly enough, the landscape is not entirely the work of nature. The lawn was once part of Myono Pasture, where horses grazed until around 1965, with their hooves and feeding helping to keep the grassland open. Combined with the area’s cool Yamase winds, sea fog, and relatively light winter snowfall, that history helped produce the peculiar coastal ecosystem seen today. During the warmer months, numerous varieties of flowers bloom throughout the surrounding grassland as well. Suffice it to say, it is a dramatic change from the wooded trail immediately to the south.
If you’re walking north as suggested above, the Tanesashi Natural Lawn also makes for an ideal place to stop and take a proper break. Rather than simply hoofing it straight across the grass and continuing onward, give yourself a little time here to wander around, grab something to eat, or just get off your feet for a bit. The Tanesashi Coast Information Center sits right beside the lawn, which makes this one of the more convenient places along the route to regroup before continuing. From here, the trail heads toward Yodo-no-Matsubara and eventually the Ashigezaki Scenic Overlook, so consider the lawn something of a natural halfway reset before the scenery changes yet again.
Another thing worth noting is how much the Tanesashi Natural Lawn is used by locals rather than existing purely as a sightseeing attraction. There is even a dedicated campground on the northern side of the lawn, complete with cooking facilities and restrooms, and camping is limited to that designated area to protect the grass elsewhere. For travelers, that means the Tanesashi Natural Lawn can be more than another waypoint on the hike. You can stop for a picnic, linger for a while, or even build an overnight stay around the campground if that better suits your plans. Either way, there is no need to rush through this part of the coast.
The Pine Grove & Osuka Beach
Heading north from the Tanesashi Natural Lawn, the next major stretch is the Yodo-no-Matsubara pine grove. This roughly 3-kilometer belt of black pines was planted more than a century ago by a local youth group in an effort to encourage fish breeding, and today it forms one of the more distinctive sections of the Tanesashi Coast. After the openness of the lawn, the route suddenly closes in beneath the trees, with the trail weaving through a darker, more enclosed landscape. It is a completely different mood from what came before, and another good example of just how much variety the Tanesashi Coast manages to cram into a relatively short distance.
As you make your way through the Yodo-no-Matsubara pine grove, keep an eye out for some of the stranger landmarks tucked just off the trail. The best known are the “Hermit Cave,” where someone reportedly became so taken with the location that they settled there, and the Komori-no-Ana, which once served as a habitat for bats. There is even a so-called “Hell Hole” that local lore claims connects all the way to Miyako City in Iwate Prefecture. None of these require a major detour, so there is little reason to blow past them. Take your time through this stretch, poke around where the trail allows, and enjoy the odd little discoveries along the way.
Eventually, the trees give way and the route brings you toward Osuka Beach and neighboring Shirahama Beach, another dramatic shift in scenery. Stretching for roughly 2.3 kilometers, Osuka Beach is famous for its so-called singing sand, which can produce squeaking sounds underfoot thanks to friction between quartz grains. Together, the adjoining beaches make for one of the more expansive sandy stretches along this portion of the Tanesashi Coast, and it takes around 30 minutes to cover the area at a normal pace. Swimming is prohibited at Osuka Beach, so think of it as part of the trail rather than a place to stop for a dip. If you want to swim, Shirahama Beach is the better option.
Sanriku Fukko National Park Views
Continuing north through Sanriku Fukko National Park, you’ll eventually arrive at the Ashigezaki Scenic Overlook, one of the most dramatic viewpoints anywhere along the Tanesashi Coast. Originally used as a military observation post during World War II, the stone structure now serves as a panoramic lookout over the Pacific and the rugged shoreline below. This is where the coast really starts to show off, with jagged rocks jutting out of the water as waves crash against them from seemingly every direction. After spending the past several hours moving between forests, beaches, and grassy expanses, the Ashigezaki Scenic Overlook feels like something of a grand finale for the scenic portion of the hike.
Don’t be in too much of a hurry to move on either. The coastline around the Ashigezaki Scenic Overlook is particularly jagged, and there are plenty of places nearby where you can slow down and simply enjoy the view before continuing onward. Be sure to actually climb up onto the overlook itself as well, as the elevated position gives you a much better appreciation for just how rugged this stretch of Hachinohe’s shoreline really is. There is also a small cafe beside the parking area that is particularly known for its soft-serve ice cream, making this a very convenient place to grab something sweet and give your legs a well-earned break.
From the Ashigezaki Scenic Overlook, you technically can continue all the way to Kabushima Shrine on foot, but this is where I would seriously consider calling it a day. Much of the remaining route follows the highway, and there are stretches without sidewalks, meaning you’ll spend more time dodging passing cars than admiring the coast. You certainly won’t be the only person walking it, but unless you’re determined to complete every last kilometer, check the schedule for the infrequent Umineko sightseeing bus instead. If the timing happens to work out, especially if you’re traveling with a group, hopping aboard here is a far more civilized way to finish the journey toward Kabushima Shrine.
End at Kabushima Shrine
If you’ve followed my suggested route in reverse, Kabushima Shrine is where your trek along the Tanesashi Coast finally comes to an end. Sitting on the island of Kabushima at the northern terminus of the Michinoku Coastal Trail, the shrine makes for a fitting finale after working your way up from Okuki Station. By this point, the forests, grassy expanses, sandy beaches, and jagged coastline are all behind you, leaving only this small outcrop beside Hachinohe’s fishing port. As I mentioned earlier, this was actually the only portion of the Tanesashi Coast I had explored on my previous visit to Hachinohe, though seeing it again after walking the entire route gives the location a very different context.
Of course, Kabushima Shrine is best known for the enormous number of black-tailed gulls that descend upon the island each year. Kabushima is a nationally designated Natural Monument and one of Japan’s most important breeding grounds for the species, with roughly 30,000 to 40,000 birds gathering here between March and August to nest and raise their young. The shrine itself enshrines Benzaiten, who has long been worshipped here in connection with business prosperity and safety at sea. Interestingly enough, the gulls are traditionally regarded as messengers of the deity, with fishermen once looking to the birds to help locate fishing grounds. Suffice it to say, during breeding season there are gulls absolutely everywhere.
Once you’re finished poking around Kabushima Shrine, all that remains is getting yourself back into downtown Hachinohe. Same Station on the JR Hachinohe Line is about a 15-minute walk from Kabushima, making the train the most straightforward option if the timing works in your favor. Alternatively, Hachinohe City buses also run from the Same area back toward the downtown terminals, so check both before committing to one or the other. As has been the recurring theme throughout this article, frequency is the real issue out here. Pull up Google Maps or Jorudan, see which departure comes first, and let the timetable make the decision for you.
Back at Hon-Hachinohe Station
Of course, the Tanesashi Coast is hardly the only reason to spend some time in the city of Hachinohe. Once you’re back downtown, one of the first places I’d point you toward is Miroku Yokocho, a collection of around 26 tiny food stalls packed into a maze of narrow alleyways. Think of it as something akin to Golden Gai in Shinjuku, only without having been completely spoiled by its own fame. Each stall is absolutely minuscule, which naturally puts you shoulder-to-shoulder with whoever happens to be there. If you want to experience the more local side of Hachinohe after finishing the hike, Miroku Yokocho is hard to beat.
If your schedule happens to line up with a Sunday, you should also make a point of getting up ridiculously early for the Tatehana Wharf Morning Market. Stretching for roughly 800 meters along the waterfront, this enormous gathering brings together hundreds of vendors and regularly attracts more than 10,000 visitors before most travelers have even contemplated getting out of bed. You’ll find everything from grilled fish and fried chicken to random trinkets and other local goodies, so be sure to arrive hungry. Just don’t dawdle. The market begins around sunrise and is effectively finished by 9:00 AM, disappearing almost comically fast once the vendors start packing everything away.
For something a little more historical, the Hachinohe City Museum is another worthwhile addition to your plans. Its permanent collection traces the region from prehistoric times through the modern era, making it a useful primer on how Hachinohe developed long before it became the city you see today. The museum also sits beside the remains of Nejo Castle, which once served as an important seat of power in the area. Neither attraction requires an enormous amount of time, so the pair works particularly well if you have a spare afternoon before or after tackling the Tanesashi Coast. Better yet, both can be reached from central Hachinohe by local bus.
Finally, anyone with even a passing interest in Japan’s distant past should consider making the trek out to the Korekawa Jomon Museum. Built beside an important Jomon archaeological site, the facility houses numerous artifacts excavated from the surrounding area, including the famous Gassho clay figure that was discovered in 1989 and later designated a National Treasure. Getting there does require dealing with Hachinohe’s somewhat arcane bus network, but this is where the Hachinohe Portal Museum can be surprisingly useful. In addition to showcasing local culture, the staff there can help travelers untangle the connections needed to reach some of the city’s harder-to-access attractions.
Other Nearby Attractions
Beyond the Tanesashi Coast itself, Hachinohe also makes for an excellent jumping-off point for venturing farther north through Aomori Prefecture to Mt. Osore on the Shimokita Peninsula. Regarded as one of Japan’s three most sacred mountains alongside Mt. Koya and Mt. Hiei, Mt. Osore is home to Bodai-ji and one of the strangest landscapes you’ll find anywhere in the country. Volcanic activity has transformed much of the surrounding terrain into a barren expanse of sulfur vents, rocky wasteland, and the eerily beautiful Lake Usori. Getting there takes some effort, but if you’re already going as far north as Hachinohe, you’re considerably closer than you would be starting from Tokyo.
If I were putting the two together, I’d simply spend one day tackling the Tanesashi Coast and then devote the following day to heading north toward Mt. Osore. You could just as easily reverse the order, but either way, Hachinohe works well as the logistical hinge between the two adventures. Once you finally reach Mt. Osore, I strongly suggest taking things one step further and spending the night at the shukubo attached to Bodai-ji rather than immediately turning around. Staying overnight gives you the chance to experience the temple after the daytime visitors have departed and also partake in the morning prayers before continuing onward.
Hachinohe is also just a proverbial stone’s throw away from Aomori City via the Tohoku Shinkansen, so consider extending your trip west before leaving the prefecture. You’ll need to transfer at Shin-Aomori Station to reach downtown Aomori, but once there, you’ll find more than enough to justify another day or two. Highlights include the sprawling Sannai-Maruyama Site, the Aomori Museum of Art, and Nebuta Museum Wa Rasse beside Aomori Station. If you have even more time to play with, the nearby Hakkoda Mountains open up another entire rabbit hole. Suffice it to say, there is little reason to rush out of Aomori Prefecture once you’re already this far north.
Finally, if you can figure out how to ship your luggage ahead, there is another option that fits particularly well with the reverse route I’ve suggested throughout this article. Rather than returning to Hachinohe after finishing the Tanesashi Coast, you can continue south to Kuji and then transfer to the Sanriku Railway for places like Rikuchu-Noda. From there, you’re entering the same coastal corridor I explored while tracing Iwate’s old Shio-no-Michi, where salt from Noda was once carried inland across the Kitakami Mountains by Japanese Shorthorn cattle. I won’t go too far down that particular rabbit hole here, but it makes for a very natural continuation if you’re already working your way down the Sanriku Coast.
Until next time travelers…
