Since Japan became one of the hottest travel destinations in the world, the collection of shrines and temples in the Nikko area has skyrocketed in popularity. Awarded the honor of being a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1999, landmarks like Nikko Toshogu Shrine and Rinno-ji now attract countless tourists. Alas, while more and more travelers are venturing a little further north to Kinugawa Onsen for Edo Wonderland and Tobu World Square, few of them ever make it as far as Yunishigawa Onsen — a place I’ve visited a handful of times and would love to gatekeep, but feel you, my dear readers, deserve to know about.
Since few of you will have ever heard of Yunishigawa Onsen before, let’s start with its history. Originally, this hot spring hamlet began as a hidden village for the defeated members of the Taira clan (a.k.a the Heike). Following their loss to the Minamoto clan at the Battle of Dan-no-Ura in Shimonoseki, a few members of this once-mighty family made their way deep into the mountains of Tochigi Prefecture. There, they discovered Yunishigawa Onsen’s heavenly hot springs and decided to make it their new home, hoping the remote valley would be far enough away to remain undetected.
Yunishigawa Onsen’s therapeutic waters were originally a godsend for the battered Taira members, who used the hot springs to soothe their aching wounds and wash away the fatigue from their long journey after losing to the Minamoto clan. Centuries later, though, when onsen culture began to flourish all across the country during the Edo period (1603–1868), Yunishigawa Onsen started to develop a reputation for its mineral-rich, restorative waters that were praised for their many health benefits, thereby attracting samurai, merchants, and common folk alike.
Despite being secluded away in the mountains, Yunishigawa Onsen today is just the kind of hidden gem that I think more visitors to Japan need to experience. The town artfully combines history, nature, gastronomy, and hot springs in a way that few other places in here can pull off. What’s more, despite being an off-the-beaten-path destination, getting to Yunishigawa Onsen is actually not too difficult, and a stay here pairs very well with any standard itinerary for Nikko.
So, whether you visit Yunishigawa Onsen as a standalone getaway from the stress of daily life or as your place of accommodation to unwind after a long day of exploring Nikko’s shrines and temples, consider adding this hidden haven to your next Japan itinerary.
How to Get There
Before I go over what to see and do in the region, let’s take a quick breather to cover some key logistics. To begin with, you’re going to need to make your way up to this part of Tochigi Prefecture if you aren’t planning an outing to Nikko already. This can best be done by taking one of the limited express trains that run from Tobu Asakusa Station. Since there are a number of different trains, just do what Japanese people do and refer to a service like Jorudan to figure out which one you should take.
If you can, I suggest trying to get on one of the Revaty limited express trains that run as far as Aizu-Tajima Station in southern Fukushima Prefecture. While many trains only go as far as Kinugawa Onsen Station, these actually continue going north on tracks operated by the Yagan Railway. Thus, you can travel directly to Yunishigawa Onsen Station without needing to transfer en route. Even if this takes a bit longer, your relaxing retreat will be better if you travel directly to Yunishigawa Onsen.
If you happen to be coming from Nikko, you’ll want to do a bit of research yourselves on how to get to Yunishigawa Onsen Station. While it shouldn’t be all that difficult, you’ll want to be mindful of the departure times up here. If you happen to miss a train, you are going to need to wait quite a while and it can get quite cold up here in the evenings if during fall and winter.
Yunishigawa Onsen Station
Once you pull into Yunishigawa Onsen Station deep underground, you’re going to need to wait for a bus to access Yunishigawa Onsen itself, as the hot spring town is tucked away in the mountains, far beyond where any train could ever hope to go. Luckily, the station building itself has plenty of things to enjoy to help you kill some time. At least when I was there, there was a marché outside in addition to the usual restaurant and gift shop. Additionally, the second floor of the station is actually a public bathhouse too.
I guess here I should also note that a rental car is also an option when it comes to getting to and from Yunishigawa Onsen. In fact, if it’s an option for you, it might be the easier way to reach the hidden village. Nevertheless, due to the relaxing ride up on the Revaty limited express trains, I am still more partial to coming up to Yunishigawa Onsen Station via the Yagan Railway and then taking the bus over from the nearest station.
Visit Yunishigawa Onsen’s Heike-no-Sato
All throughout Yunishigawa Onsen, you can find traces of the town being a secluded refuge for some members of the defeated Taira clan. In fact, there are even a few people, such as the owners of the ryokan Honke Bankyu, who can trace their lineage back to powerful figures from the Heian period (794–1185) like Taira-no-Kiyomori. However, the best way to enjoy the history of Yunishigawa Onsen is to swing by Heike-no-Sato, a charming and culturally rich open-air museum located in Yunishigawa Onsen.
Simply put, Heike-no-Sato is a facility that seeks to recreate a traditional mountain village vibe that evokes the lifestyle of the Taira survivors who fled here after the catastrophic end of the Genpei War. The museum features a collection of rustic thatched-roof houses and other structures that reflect the architecture and way of life of those who settled in Yunishigawa Onsen centuries ago. At Heike-no-Sato, visitors can explore these buildings to learn about their daily routines, tools, and traditions.
While there are a number of other similar open-air museums dispersed across the country, what sets Heike-no-Sato apart is its interactivity. In addition to the facility’s impressive array of exhibits and artifacts, there are also many workshops and activities that allow visitors to get hands-on, such as trying on period-style clothing (the outfit I am wearing above is a WIP offer) or participating in traditional crafts. This adds a little bit of extra fun to the historic beauty of Heike-no-Sato.
Speaking of beauty, know that Heike-no-Sato is absolutely stunning throughout the year. As you’ll see pictured throughout this article, the fall foliage truly brings the place alive with color. Thereafter, during the wintertime, when the grounds are blanketed with snow, the open-air museum takes on a quaint and tranquil vibe. And, as we’ll see in a second, this season also welcomes the Yunishigawa Kamakura Festival (sometimes also called the “Snow House Festival”).
Yunishigawa Onsen’s Snow House Festival
The Yunishigawa Kamakura Festival is a stunning celebration of light and snow that is held annually from late January to early March. This enchanting event features hundreds of miniature kamakura (snow huts) that are illuminated in the evenings, transforming the landscape into a winter fairyland. The main venue for the Yunishigawa Kamakura Festival is Heike-no-Sato, but there are also magical displays along the Sawaguchi riverbed, which has been recognized as one of Japan’s Night View Heritage Sites.
The Yunishigawa Kamakura Festival boasts a variety of activities that allow visitors to fully embrace the season’s charm. In addition to the normal allure of Heike-no-Sato, guests can savor hot meals inside some of the larger kamakura huts, many of which are available for rent. These huts come equipped with a table and a BBQ set, allowing you to participate in the beloved local tradition of enjoying dinner inside one of the kamakura during the snow house festival.
In addition to the illuminated kamakura at Heike-no-Sato and along the Sawaguchi riverbed, much of Yunishigawa Onsen joins in the festivities. As you tour the town in the evening, you’ll notice snowmen lining the streets and other fun activities, including snow slides and snowshoeing, which are available during the daytime as well. All in all, if you’re in Tochigi anytime between late January and early March, you really ought to drop by the Yunishigawa Kamakura Festival.
What Else to See & Do in Yunishigawa Onsen
Heike-no-Sato is undoubtedly the highlight of Yunishigawa Onsen, but there are still other areas worth checking out. I’ll cover some of the historic ryokan in the upcoming section, but within the confines of the main area, you can enjoy truly delicious tofu as well as local sake, thanks to the pristine waters that flow from the mountains. On my most recent trip, I enjoyed both at the Aizuya Tofu Shop, located right by the Yunishi River, and I highly recommend it.
One other spot worth checking out on the way back to Yunishigawa Onsen Station is the Yunishi River Water Village Onsen. This half-hot spring, half-roadside service station sells all sorts of local goods in addition to offering riverside baths to enjoy (if you’re not spending the night and therefore don’t have access to one of Yunishigawa Onsen’s many open-air baths — though this is not recommended). Here, you’ll also find a picturesque suspension bridge known as the Mizunogodaitsuri Bridge, which is an attraction unto itself and affords beautiful views of the nearby hills and trees.
Note that when it comes to getting around the areas outside of the hot spring town’s center, you’ll need to make use of the buses if you don’t have a rental car. These buses are few and far between, so be sure to do some homework and plan your time carefully if you opt to drop by Yunishi River Water Village Onsen. What’s more, the buses sometimes leave a tad early so get to the stop with at least five minute to go before it’s scheduled departure.
Your Choice of Guest Rooms
Between Heike-no-Sato, the Yunishigawa Kamakura Festival, and everything else in Yunishigawa Onsen, there is plenty to do — but you’d be a fool not to spend the night in a hotel or ryokan up here. To date, I’ve visited Yunishigawa Onsen multiple times over the years and have stayed at several of the available accommodations. If you can manage to get a reservation, my top recommendation would be Honke Bankyu. A bit of history itself, the owners of this ryokan can directly trace their lineage back to the top brass of the Taira family.
Another recommendation is Taira-no-Takafusa. Located a little deeper into the valley, this incredible ryokan is one of the best I’ve stayed at in all my travels. Especially when blanketed by snow, it offers a truly enchanting experience for guests. However, on my recent stint in Yunishigawa Onsen, I stayed at KAMENOI HOTEL NIKKO YUNISHIGAWA, which is situated directly behind Heike-no-Sato. This makes it really convenient for anyone who wants to scuttle back to their guest rooms and warm up in a bath during winter after enjoying the snow house festival.
No matter which Japanese inn or hotel you stay at, know that all will come with an outdoor bath that makes use of the rejuvenating waters that Yunishigawa Onsen is famous for. Additionally, guests will also have the opportunity to dine on fireside grilling, a traditional Japanese method of cooking that utilizes a sunken hearth, or irori, to prepare meals. This local specialty is something you should definitely look forward to before retiring to your rooms.
Other Nearby Attractions
On your way back from Yunishigawa Onsen Station, I highly suggest making a pitstop at Ryuokyo. Conveniently also a stop on the Yagan Railway, this gorge is one of the most impressive of its kind and offers great hiking opportunities if you’re in the mood. The train departure times are such that you’ll have just enough leeway to explore Ryuokyo and grab a bite to eat (if you have room after the ryokan breakfast…) before continuing on to Kinugawa Onsen.
When it comes to attractions in Nikko City, I’ve already penned the ultimate guide for that, so rather than reinvent the wheel, I’ll just direct you there. Note that if you plan to see places like Nikko Toshogu Shrine, I recommend making time for it and other points of interest in Nikko before heading to Yunishigawa Onsen. This way, you can take one of the express trains directly back to Asakusa Station in Tokyo. Doing the reverse just isn’t as logistically convenient.
Lastly, another option is to continue heading north on the Yagan Railway into Fukushima Prefecture, where you could explore Aizu-Wakamatsu and Ouchijuku. It’s a bit of a trek, but Nikko and the former castle town of Aizu-Wakamatsu were once connected via the historic Nikko Kaido. I’ve detailed this itinerary here, so check it out if you’re interested in visiting one of my favorite parts of the country.
Until next time travelers…
