These days, more and more, overseas visitors to Japan are starting to realize that Okayama Prefecture is actually one of the easiest additions to any standard itinerary that includes Hiroshima. Thanks to this, Okayama Castle and the lovely gardens of Koraku-en are beginning to see far more travelers than they did in the years leading up to the pandemic. Alas, there is soooo much more to Okayama than just these highlights, and today, I’d like to introduce you to one of the prefecture’s top hidden gems — the former castle town of Tsuyama.
If you haven’t heard of Tsuyama before, know that you’re likely not not alone. In fact, even I only stumbled across it while managing the Setouchi DMO’s overseas PR and communication back in 2023 and 2024. While searching for spots to include on an exhaustive list of the best cherry blossom locations in the region, I happened upon Tsuyama Castle — a site that is particularly enchanting during the few weeks when Japan’s most iconic trees are in bloom. As seen here, it’s truly a spectacle to behold should the timing workout for you.
Of course, there’s much more to Tsuyama than just its pretty pink flowers that blossom during the spring. The city is located in the center of the Tsuyama Basin in the former Mimasaka Province and sits on an important highway that connects the Seto Inland Sea side of Japan with Tottori and the Sea of Japan. Since this was also the main pilgrimage route to the famed Izumo Taisha in Shimane Prefecture, as well as one of the only ways to cut through the mountains of western Japan, Tsuyama’s location was strategically critical throughout history.
Sadly, Tsuyama’s most famous attraction — its mighty fortress — did not fully survive the shift to modernity. Like so many others in Japan, Tsuyama Castle was dismantled at the end of the Edo period (1603–1868) to as the age of the samurai came to an end once and for all. Luckily, the structure’s massive stone walls are still largely intact and exist for modern explorers to behold. Had it survived the changing of the eras, Tsuyama Castle likely would have been one of the top strongholds in the country, even rivaling others mainstays like Nagoya Castle and Himeji Castle.
All in all, Tsuyama is just the kind of hidden gem I want to recommend to readers of this blog. The site is both rich in history and well off the beaten path — at least inasmuch as overtourism is concerned. At the same time, though, Tsuyama is also easy enough to tack on to any itinerary that includes the usual mainstays of western Japan like Hiroshima, Naoshima and the like. And, as you’ll see in a second, Tsuyama has a wide variety of allures that can appeal to both cultural connoisseurs and foodies alike. I really couldn’t more highly recommend it!
How to Get There
Let’s take a quick break before going into the weeds on Tsuyama to cover some key logistics, as you’re going to want to do some planning in advance if you’re heading to this rural section of Okayama. To be quite frank, Tsuyama may as well be located all the way up in Tottori Prefecture for what it’s worth. As you can see in the Google Map embedded above, the former castle town is tucked away in the northern part of the prefecture, right near Chizu on the southern border of Tottori. Because of this, getting there will require the use of a local train from Okayama City.
To begin with, you’ll need to make your way to Okayama Station. For many, this means that a trip to Tsuyama will come either before or after their visit to Hiroshima and/or Naoshima. If you have a Japan Rail Pass or one of its regional variants, you should be able to hop off the Shinkansen easily enough at Okayama Station. From there, the journey to Tsuyama Station takes around an hour and some change, but be sure to refer to Jorudan or a similar service for actual departure times — just note that departures aren’t all that frequent.
Once you’re in Tsuyama, getting around can be a bit tough if you’re not a strong walker (though it’s totally doable entirely on foot if you don’t mind putting in the steps for the day). That said, there are plenty of rental cycles available throughout the city, and these make getting from one side of Tsuyama to the other a lot easier. If you can, try to snag one of the electrically assisted rental bikes because Tsuyama has quite a few ups and downs, especially when making your way to the hilltop where Tsuyama Castle is perched.
Finally, before I get ahead of myself and start ranting on what to see and do in Tsuyama, allow me to suggest arriving in the evening and spending the night at SHIROYAMA TERRACE TSUYAMA VILLA. Located right outside the castle’s expansive grounds, this hotel features some really nice hot springs, saunas, and mizuburo with views of the former fortress’s stone walls and its sole rebuilt turret. While I don’t usually say this lightly, I really enjoyed my stay here and highly recommend the hotel!
The Remains of Tsuyama Castle
OK, let’s dive into the key spots in Tsuyama, starting with the castle — which is undoubtedly the crowning jewel of the city. As Tsuyama’s main attraction, the castle sits in Kakuzan Park, at the heart of the downtown area, serving as both a historical landmark and a scenic retreat for travelers and local people alike. Unfortunately, Tsuyama Castle did not survive the transition into modern times, as noted above. That said, while the once-mighty structure was dismantled, it is still considered one of Japan’s Top 100 Castles, and its imposing stone walls continue to stand, offering a glimpse into the grandeur that once was. A single turret has been faithfully reconstructed, allowing visitors to imagine what the stronghold must have looked like in its heyday.
Tsuyama Castle’s origins date back to the early 1600s and are tied to the Mori clan, who were once retainers of Oda Nobunaga before going on to serve under Tokugawa Ieyasu. The castle was originally erected by Mori Tadamasa in 1616, following the Battle of Sekigahara, as a bulwark against any lingering threats from the west. The fortress was an architectural marvel, boasting a five-story main keep and an astounding 77 turrets, all designed to showcase the power and prestige of the Mori clan while reinforcing Tsuyama’s strategic importance in the Mimasaka area. Honestly, it’s a shame that it didn’t survive, as it would have easily been one of the best castles in all of Japan.
Of course, no mention of Tsuyama Castle would be complete without acknowledging the around thousand of cherry blossom trees that adorn the castle grounds. Every spring, the grounds transform (corrected verb agreement) into one of western Japan’s premier cherry blossom destinations, drawing visitors from across the country. The combination of ancient stone walls and delicate pink petals creates a surreal and picturesque atmosphere, making it a must-visit spot for photographers and nature lovers alike.
During peak bloom, the park hosts a cherry blossom festival, complete with evening illuminations, food stalls, and a lively atmosphere that adds to the magic. So, whether you’re here for historical legacy, scenery, or simply to enjoy a quiet moment under the blossoms, Tsuyama Castle is an unforgettable experience.
Savor Shuraku-en
Since Tsuyama Castle’s interior layout was a matter of top-secret strategic importance, the Mori clan instead built Shuraku-en as a space for diplomacy and hospitality. Found not too far north of the castle, this traditional Japanese garden was where guests and visiting lords were received. Unlike the imposing fortifications of Tsuyama Castle, which were strictly for military and administrative purposes, Shuraku-en served as a place of leisure and diplomacy. The Mori clan used the garden to entertain high-ranking guests, offering them a tranquil setting that showcased their wealth, cultural sophistication, and deep appreciation for nature. The landscape was meticulously designed, featuring a central pond, stone pathways, and carefully placed seasonal flora, all arranged to reflect the harmonious balance found in traditional Japanese aesthetics.
Today, Shuraku-en is a peaceful escape in the center of Tsuyama and is entirely free to enter — a rarity for gardens of this type. While it may not be as well known as Koraku-en in Okayama’s capital city or Kenroku-en in Kanazawa, it holds its own charm, especially for those who appreciate historical landscapes steeped in local heritage. The garden is particularly stunning in autumn, when the vibrant red and gold hues of the maple trees create a striking contrast against the stillness of the pond. Since it’s located just a stone’s throw from the castle, Shuraku-en is an easy addition to any Tsuyama itinerary — so skipping it would be nothing short of a mistake.
Explore Joto & Josai
As noted, Tsuyama Castle sits perched high on a hill that bisects central Tsuyama into east and west. Respectively these dual areas are called Joto (lit. “East of the Castle”) and Josai (lit. “West of the Castle”). Generally speaking the former was where merchants lived and hawked their wares, whereas the latter was where many of the higher ranking samurai’s homes as well as Buddhist temples could be found. This arrangement likely stemmed from lingering fears of an attack from the west as the dust settled after the Battle of Sekigahara in 1600, as it allowed Tsuyama’s western flank to be far better protected by these structures.
First up, know that Joto is situated on Tsuyama Castle’s eastern side and is by far the better preserved of the two. Here, you’ll find many traditional buildings that have been carefully maintained by local residents. For centuries, this area flourished as a bustling commercial hub, where traders and artisans set up shop to supply both castle town residents and travelers passing through. As you walk around Joto, popping in and out of its various shops, be sure not to miss the impressive folk museum as well as the Tsuyama Western Studies Museum, which showcases the legacy of the domain’s pioneering scholars of Western studies.
Moving on, Josai lies on the western side of Tsuyama Castle. This area was once home to the city’s high-ranking samurai population, as well as many of its temples and shrines. The construction of samurai residences and temple complexes helped ensure that there would be at least some form of fortification in the event of another outbreak of war. Unfortunately, due to urban development decisions made by the city government, much of this historic area was built over when the old train station was constructed. As a result, aside from the surviving temples, much of Josai’s historical character has been lost over time.
Back by the JR Tsuyama Station
Found a short walk from the JR Tsuyama Station in a former rail yard, the Tsuyama Manabi Railway Museum is a must-visit destination for both train enthusiasts and history buffs alike. This facility pays tribute to Tsuyama’s deep railway heritage, as the city once served as an important transportation hub, connecting different regions of western Japan. The highlight of the museum is its impressive collection of locomotives, including a well-preserved D51 steam engine, one of Japan’s most iconic trains. Inside, visitors can explore detailed exhibits on railway history, interactive displays, and even a train simulator, making it a fun and educational stop for travelers of all ages.
Beyond its historical significance, the Tsuyama Manabi Railway Museum offers a nostalgic glimpse into Japan’s railway evolution, from steam locomotives to modern diesel and electric trains. The outdoor display area allows people to get up close with classic train models, while the indoor exhibits showcase rare artifacts, historical documents, and insights into the role of railways in Tsuyama’s development as a city. Whether you’re among the population of dedicated rail fans or just looking for a unique stop while exploring Tsuyama, this site provides a fascinating look into Japan’s rich railway legacy and its enduring impact on regional travel.
Eat some Tsuyama Beef
For much of Japanese history, the consumption of four-legged animals was largely taboo due to the influence of Buddhist beliefs. However, in Tsuyama, the locals had a unique perspective on eating meat. As cattle were highly valued in the region, the people viewed beef as a form of medicine, believing that its rich protein and nutrients could restore strength and vitality. This pragmatic approach to nourishment made Tsuyama one of the few regions in Japan where beef consumption quietly persisted during a time when it was frowned upon elsewhere. By the Meiji period (1868–1912), when Japan began embracing Western dietary habits, Tsuyama had already cultivated a deep-rooted beef culture, setting the stage for its reputation as a place to enjoy high-quality, locally sourced beef.
One of the area’s most famous meibutsu (local specialties) is Tsuyama’s famous Horumon Udon. This hearty dish combines thick, chewy udon noodles with horumon (beef offal), all stir-fried together in a savory miso-based sauce. Unlike other parts of Japan, where offal cuts were often discarded, Tsuyama locals found ways to utilize every part of the cow, creating a dish that is not only delicious but also an example of their resourcefulness and respect for ingredients. Today, Tsuyama Horumon Udon is a must-try for all overseas guests, offering a rich, umami-packed taste that perfectly complements the region’s historic connection to beef.
Beyond its horumon udon, Tsuyama boasts several other beef-based delicacies. Dishes like Tsuyama wagyu beef highlight the high quality of locally raised cattle, known for their tender texture and deep marbling. Additionally, Tsuyama is home to a number of yakiniku restaurants, where diners can grill an assortment of cuts, including thinly sliced short ribs, juicy sirloin, and flavorful offal. For those looking for a taste of authentic, regional Japanese cuisine, indulging in Tsuyama’s beef specialties is an experience not to be missed. Whether it’s a comforting bowl of horumon udon or the melt-in-your-mouth goodness of local wagyu, Tsuyama continues to honor its historic connection to beef in a way that is both delicious and culturally significant.
Other Nearby Attractions
To be honest, I’ve only glossed over all of the places you could visit in Tsuyama City before you make your way back to Okayama Station to continue your Japanese journey. For example, there are a ton of shrines and temples in just the Josai portion of Tsuyama alone, and detailing them all — along with their various festival timings — would make this article far longer than it already is. Thus, allow me to say that I’ve only scratched the surface when it comes to this amazing yet still unknown part of Okayama Prefecture.
Before I leave you, though, I also need to mention the neighboring town of Shoo. Though accessible via Tsuyama Station with a bit of walking, this area is really only a solid logistical add-on to Tsuyama Castle and the cherry blossoms if you have your own set of wheels. In the event that you can snag yourself a rental car, though, consider dropping by some of the following sites in Shoo after you’re done exploring Tsuyama City…
- Kurikara Shrine
This shrine is believed to be the final resting place of Kintaro, the legendary warrior also known as Sakata-no-Kintoki. Kintaro, who later served Minamoto-no-Yorimitsu, fell ill while traveling to Kyushu and passed away in Shoo Town. Today, Kurikara Shrine enshrines him, preserving his story and legacy. - Katsumada Shrine
Found in what was once a post town along the Izumo Kaido, Katsumada Shrine is considered an auspicious place due to the repeated presence of “katsu” (勝), meaning “victory,” in its name. Dedicated to Michizane Sugawara, the god of learning, this shrine is popular among students and athletes praying for success. Founded in 1478, it remains an important cultural and spiritual landmark in Shoo. - Kintaro Statue
As noted, the town of Shoo is said to be the final resting place of Kintaro, and in Nakano-cho Park, you’ll find a bronze statue of the fabled warrior proudly astride a bear. This statue honors his legendary strength and contributions as a warrior. - Kaku Dohyo
One of Shoo’s most unique cultural landmarks is Kaku Dohyo, a square sumo ring that has been in use for over 500 years. Unlike the standard circular dohyo seen in modern sumo, this rare four-sided ring is believed to have been handed down through generations and remains the only one of its kind still in use.
Finally, assuming you have a rental car, I also suggest dropping by Okayama Farmers Market North Village. This agriculture-themed exchange facility allows people to experience farm life, enjoy local produce, and even stay overnight in glamping accommodations. A unique highlight is the story of Genki-kun, a “miracle calf” that survived Typhoon №10 in 1998 and lived to be 21 years old (105 in human years). A bronze statue of Genki-kun now stands in the park, commemorating his incredible survival. Also, as shown above, you can partake in fruit picking and even ride a horse here too.
In closing, whether you come to this hidden gem for the cherry blossoms in Tsuyama Castle or simply to indulge in some beautiful beef, know that Tsuyama City is one of the most impressive places I’ve visited in recent months. I truly hope you get a chance to visit — and don’t forget about the neighboring town of Shoo either. Moreover, there is so much more to Tsuyama like Samuhara Shrine in the northern part of the city that I didn’t even manage to fit in here so know that you’ll not want for content when visiting.
Until next time travelers…
