When it comes to Miyazaki, most people are only aware of the prefecture’s most iconic attractions, like Takachiho Gorge and Amano Iwato Shrine. Alas, there’s so much more to Miyazaki than just these well-known spots. For example, in the southern part of the prefecture, you’ll find the city of Nichinan. Originally part of the ancient Hyuga Province on Japan’s island of Kyushu, this area boasts a rich samurai legacy and some truly breathtaking coastal scenery.
Throughout the long arc of history, Nichinan was a fiercely contested region. During the Warring States period (1467–1600), the Ito clan vied for control of the territory with the mighty Shimazu clan of present-day Kagoshima, then known as Satsuma. Later, thanks to a decree from Toyotomi Hideyoshi, one of Japan’s three great unifiers, the domain was definitively returned to the Ito clan, and the castle town of Obi would go on to serve as their seat of power until the modern era.
In addition to its storied past and well-preserved castle town, this southernmost section of Miyazaki Prefecture is also blessed with stunning natural beauty. Upwards of 80% of the land within Nichinan’s city limits is covered with Obi cedar. These mighty timbers possess a special quality that makes them ideal for crafting traditional Japanese seafaring vessels — something that helped make the Ito clan extremely wealthy over the years.
All in all, whether you’re a history buff or simply want to see some truly spiritual shrines, Nichinan is well worth adding to your Miyazaki Prefecture itinerary. As you’ll see in a second, it’s easily accessible via train and bus, so there’s really no reason to miss out on this hidden gem. Just note that starting in the beginning of summer, temperatures in Kyushu quickly shift from warm and manageable to hot and humid — so be prepared to bring drinks and to sweat if you’re visiting then.
How to Get There
Before we get into what to see and do in Nichinan City, let’s take a quick second to go over some key logistics before moving forward. As can be seen in the Google Map embedded above, Nichinan is located in the southern part of the prefecture. Unlike some of the other places that I’ve introduced on this blog, though, it’s quite easy for the average tourist to reach Nichinan without the use of a rental car once they actually get themselves down to Kyushu.
How you get to Nichinan will depend largely on where you’re based. In my experience, most of you will be coming from Miyazaki City, so this will require taking a limited express train or a bus. In this article, I’m going to assume that you’re taking this more popular route. While I understand that some of you might want to come up from Kagoshima, this route makes the connection a bit more on the hard side. That said, I’ll leave it up to you to decide.
In either case, it’s best to refer to a service like Jorudan when it comes to information about train and bus departures. Unfortunately, unlike in more popular places like Tokyo, Osaka and Kyoto, Nichinan City’s transportation has plenty of room for improvement. Since missing a train or bus can mean waiting upwards of an hour, just do what the local people of Japan do — just type your destination into an app and have it build out the connections for you!
Historic Obi Town & Castle
One of the major highlights of any trip to Nichinan City is undoubtedly a visit to the charming castle town of Obi. Often referred to as the “Little Kyoto of Kyushu,” this quaint area is home to lovingly preserved samurai-era streets, stone walls, and merchant houses. While the actual castle keep was lost to the ravages of time, the area has undergone thoughtful restoration efforts, giving visitors a rare window into what daily life looked like hundreds of years ago under the rule of the Ito clan.
Obi Castle itself has been partially reconstructed using traditional materials and techniques. The restored main gate and surrounding grounds now serve as a local museum, offering insights into the domain’s samurai history during the Edo period (1603–1868). You’ll also find displays of armor, documents, and cultural artifacts tied to the Ito clan, who ruled the area for centuries. It’s not on the same scale as Japan’s major castles, but the intimate atmosphere more than makes up for that.
What really sets Obi apart, though, is the ambiance. Unlike more famous historic areas and castle towns that are often packed with tourists, Obi has a sleepy, lived-in vibe. The streets are lined with cedar fences and trickling water channels, and you’ll occasionally pass a local going about their business in traditional work clothes. It’s easy to lose track of time while wandering around, ducking into sake breweries, sweet shops, museums and other such establishments housed in old samurai residences.
Of course, Obi’s legacy also extends beyond architecture and ambiance. The town was home to Komura Jutaro , a prominent diplomat from the Meiji period (1868–1912) who played a key role in negotiating the end of the Russo-Japanese War with the Treaty of Portsmouth. Komura’s success on the world stage is a testament to the high level of scholarship fostered in Obi during its time as a castle town. Even today, his former residence can be visited, adding another layer of depth to the town’s already rich historical narrative.
So, whether you’re snapping photos of preserved architecture or simply soaking in the serene atmosphere, Obi is the kind of place that rewards slow travel. It’s not just a quick stop on the journey to somewhere else; it’s a destination in its own right, full of stories waiting to be uncovered. I recommend starting your adventures here and then making your way back to Miyazaki City via Udo Jingu, as that route tends to work out more neatly in terms of transportation.
Sacred Udo Jingu
After exploring the historical charms of Obi, the next logical stop on your Nichinan adventure is Udo Jingu. This unique Shinto shrine is unlike anything you’ll find elsewhere in Japan. Perched dramatically along the cliffs of the beautiful Nichinan Coast, Udo Jingu is partially built inside a seaside cave that overlooks the crashing waves of the Hyuga Sea. The setting alone is worth the trip, but it’s the deep mythology and spiritual atmosphere that truly make it special.
According to legend, Udo Jingu is allegedly the birthplace of Ugayafukiaezu-no-Mikoto, the father of Emperor Jimmu, Japan’s mythical first emperor. As such, the shrine is steeped in spiritual significance and is often visited by couples praying for fertility, safe childbirth, and a happy marriage. You’ll notice many of the shrine’s motifs, like breast-shaped rocks and charms, tie back to these themes, lending a distinct character that sets it apart from more conventional shrines.
One of the most iconic rituals at Udo Jingu involves tossing small clay balls, known as undama in Japanese, down toward a sacred rock that juts out of the sea below. If you can land one in the hollow of the rock, it’s said to bring good luck. It’s deceptively challenging and a fun chance to participate in the shrine’s lore. Between this and the stunning coastal views, it’s easy to see why the site has become a favorite among both domestic travelers and in-the-know foreign visitors.
Architecturally, Udo Jingu also stands out with its vivid vermilion color scheme and dramatic position half-sheltered by the cave. The approach to the shrine involves a scenic descent along a coastal path, which feels more like a pilgrimage than a casual stroll. Along the way, you’ll pass various smaller shrines, a recently opened café, and lookout points that offer panoramic views of the rugged Nichinan coastline. If the weather is clear, be sure to take your time — there are plenty of photo-worthy spots.
If you’re coming from Obi, visiting Udo Jingu on your way back toward Miyazaki City is both convenient and rewarding. The combination of myth, history, and jaw-dropping nature makes it an essential stop on any Nichinan itinerary. Just be mindful of your timing; the site can get slippery after rain, and the limited public transport means you’ll want to plan your departure information well in advance. But with a bit of foresight, it’s an experience you won’t soon forget.
More to Miyazaki Prefecture
Just a short bus ride from Udo Jingu, you’ll find one of Nichinan’s quirkiest attractions — Sun Messe Nichinan. This seaside park is best known for its lineup of seven towering Moai statues, officially sanctioned replicas of the originals on Easter Island. Set against the backdrop of the sparkling Hyuga Sea, the statues make for a surreal yet striking sight. While it might sound gimmicky at first, the location itself is undeniably scenic, and there’s something oddly captivating about seeing these iconic stone figures gazing out over the Pacific.
Further up the coast from Nichinan lies Aoshima, a small island that’s easily accessible via a short bridge from the mainland. Surrounded by the famous “Devil’s Washboard” rock formations — natural basalt ridges created by centuries of wave erosion — Aoshima is home to a lush, subtropical shrine nestled among dense jungle. The whole place feels like something out of a dream, especially when the tide is low and the ridges stretch out dramatically along the shore.
The city center of Miyazaki’s capital is also full of worthwhile stops. For example, Miyazaki Shrine, one of the region’s most historically significant sites, honors Emperor Jimmu. The site is surrounded by a serene forest setting that makes for a refreshing escape. Not far from there is the free-to-enter Miyazaki Prefectural Museum as well. Of course, if you’re in Miyazaki City, you absolutely need to savor some Miyazaki wagyu, as well as the local sumibiyaki (charcoal-grilled chicken).
Other Nearby Attractions
Any article on Miyazaki ought to mention the prefecture’s popular-yet-spiritual area of Takachiho. Located far to the north of Nichinan City, this part of Miyazaki is about as far from the “Kyoto of Kyushu” in the south as you can get. As such, any itinerary that includes both areas will require a multi-night outing. In my case, I opted to stay in Takachiho on the first day, then head down south over the following days. Unfortunately, Miyazaki is just one long prefecture, which makes it tough to see it all in a single trip.
If you’re already down in Nichinan, you might want to consider heading a bit further south and exploring Kagoshima. This part of Japan was formerly under the aforementioned Shimazu clan and is also bustling with history, nature, and great local eats (no really, go take a look at Sengan-en). While the route is best suited for those with a rental car, you can make the trek via a hodgepodge of train connections if this section of Kyushu sounds interesting to you.
Personally, if I had to improve my route for a future trip with a little bit of Kagoshima, I’d opt to go to Kirishima Jingu. Also deeply connected to Japan’s mythohistory, this sacred shrine is anything but boring. Tucked away in the mountains of Kagoshima Prefectures, Kirishima Jingu is said to be the spot where the god Ninigi-no-Mikoto — grandson of the sun goddess Amaterasu — descended to earth to rule. The setting is just as grand as the legend, with towering cedar trees, crisp mountain air, and an expansive shrine complex that invites quiet reflection.
Until next time travelers…
