Recently, I had the chance to visit Nihonmatsu in Fukushima Prefecture as part of a government initiative to encourage more tourists heading to Tohoku to stop by along the way. Truth be told, until this opportunity came up, even I didn’t know much about this part of Fukushima. Sandwiched between Koriyama and Fukushima City, Nihonmatsu is a true hidden gem that has yet to experience any of the ill effects of overtourism. My visit was specifically timed with the city’s Chrysanthemum Doll Festival, which has been held every October and November for many decades, but this former castle town is worth visiting at just about any time of the year.
Historically, Nihonmatsu was a significant castle stronghold with a legacy stretching back centuries. During the Edo period (1603–1868), it served as the seat of the Nihonmatsu Domain under the rule of the Niwa clan, and its strategic position along the Oshu Kaido made it an important hub for travelers and merchants moving between Edo (now Tokyo) and northern Japan. Though the original Nihonmatsu Castle (also known as Kasumigajo Castle) was largely destroyed in war, the ruins now stand as a beautifully preserved park that offers a peek into the city’s feudal past.
In addition to its long history, Nihonmatsu also offers a number of other interesting attractions around town. From the beautiful nature found on the slopes of Mt. Adatara to relaxing hot springs and famous sake breweries, the city presents a true smorgasbord of allures for visitors to explore. Of all the off-the-beaten-path destinations I’ve been to recently, my trip to Nihonmatsu was one of the most memorable for just how flexible the city can be. No matter what you’re drawn to, there is truly something for everyone in Nihonmatsu.
How to Get There
Let’s take a quick moment to cover some key logistics so that you, the reader, can get a sense of where Nihonmatsu is located in Fukushima Prefecture and how to fit it into a Tohoku itinerary. Assuming you’re coming from Tokyo’s central areas, you’ll need to start by taking one of the bullet trains that stop at Koriyama Station. Here, it’s helpful to use a service like Jorudan to calculate departure times, and be careful not to board the Hayabusa Shinkansen, which heads directly to Sendai and skips Koriyama entirely. These are reserve seats only anyway so it should be a difficult mistake to make but it’s worth noting anyway.
After arriving in Koriyama, you’ll need to make a decision: do you want to rent a car, or take a local train to Nihonmatsu? On my trip, I was fortunate enough to be carted around by local representatives since I myself don’t drive, but the journey to Nihonmatsu is only about half an hour on the local trains. Overall, getting to Nihonmatsu itself isn’t too difficult — the real challenge is making the rounds to key spots in the region. While some attractions are simple enough to reach on foot, others require a long bus ride up into the mountains.
Before moving on, let me add that I highly recommend spending the night at one of Dake Onsen’s many hot spring-featuring lodgings. During my time in Nihonmatsu, I stayed at Mt. Inn, which is both foreigner-friendly and well-equipped with outdoor adventure options (making it perfect for anyone planning to summit Mt. Adatara). Plus, they even have a full-fledged rally car simulator — perfect for motorsports fans planning to visit the Ebisu Circuit — but more on that in a second.
The Nihonmatsu Castle Area
Nihonmatsu Castle holds a special place in the city’s historical and cultural landscape. Originally constructed in the 14th century, this castle became a stronghold for the Hatakeyama clan before eventually passing to the Niwa clan that ruled from 1643 onwards. Unlike many other castles in Japan that have undergone heavy reconstruction, Nihonmatsu Castle retains its historic charm as a partially preserved ruin, allowing visitors to walk in the footsteps of samurai. Though the main keep was destroyed during the Boshin War, the stone walls and remnants of the castle grounds offer a glimpse into the past, evoking a sense of awe for those who wander its grounds.
Located on a hillside overlooking the city’s administrative center, the castle grounds (now known as Kasumigajo Castle Park) are breathtaking throughout the year, but they reach their peak beauty in spring and autumn. In cherry blossom season, the area is blanketed in soft pink petals, creating an idyllic scene that feels like stepping into an ukiyo-e woodblock print. Meanwhile, autumn brings a brilliant tapestry of reds and golds to the surrounding landscape, making it a favorite among locals and visitors alike. These seasonal changes transform the castle into a dynamic landscape, offering something fresh with every visit.
One of the most iconic events at Nihonmatsu Castle is the Chrysanthemum Doll Festival, a tradition that has been held annually for over half a century. Every October and November, the castle grounds are adorned with larger-than-life chrysanthemum displays, often featuring dolls dressed in colorful chrysanthemums that bring scenes from Japanese folklore and history to life. These floral masterpieces require immense skill and dedication to create, and they draw spectators from across the country who come to see this rare art form in its full glory. Set against the castle ruins, the dolls and flowers create an enchanting atmosphere that feels both timeless and uniquely Nihonmatsu.
For anyone visiting Nihonmatsu, the castle offers a powerful blend of history, natural beauty, and cultural celebration. While the Chrysanthemum Doll Festival adds a unique seasonal charm, the castle and its surrounding park are well worth exploring at any time of year. Whether you’re captivated by samurai lore, fascinated by floral artistry, or simply looking for a scenic escape, Nihonmatsu Castle has a way of capturing the imagination. It’s a place where history and tradition come to life, offering a memorable experience that lingers long after you’ve left.
Compared to some of the other spots in Nihonmatsu, getting to the castle is simple. From Nihonmatsu Station, the castle grounds are about a 20-minute walk, giving you a chance to enjoy the charming townscape along the way. If you’d prefer a quicker route, taxis are readily available at the station and can get you to the castle in just a few minutes. Just be sure not to miss the Nihonmatsu Castle Information Center while exploring the area!
Nihonmatsu’s Mt. Adatara
Next up, we have Mt. Adatara. Standing proudly over Nihonmatsu, this peak is one of Fukushima Prefecture’s most picturesque natural landmarks and a popular destination for outdoor enthusiasts. Part of the Bandai-Asahi National Park, this stratovolcano is known for its gentle slopes, scenic trails, and stunning panoramic views that reach as far as Mt. Bandai and the Pacific Ocean on clear days. Rising to 1,700 meters, Mt. Adatara offers an accessible yet rewarding climb for hikers, making it a beloved spot for locals and visitors alike who come to experience its unique landscapes year-round.
One of the highlights of a trip to Mt. Adatara is the ropeway, which makes the mountain’s beauty accessible even to those who might not want to tackle the full hike. The Mt. Adatara Ropeway whisks passengers up the mountain in a comfortable 10-minute ride, revealing sweeping views of the surrounding forests, valleys, and peaks as it ascends. The ropeway drops you off close to the summit, from where you can either enjoy the views or continue along well-marked trails that lead higher up. This combination of accessibility and stunning scenery makes the ropeway a perfect option for families, casual hikers, and anyone seeking a relaxed way to experience the beauty of the region.
At the top, one of the most breathtaking features of Mt. Adatara is its volcanic crater. From the ropeway station, it’s about a 1.5-hour hike along well-marked trails to reach this expansive basin, making for a manageable yet rewarding trek. The rugged, rocky landscape of the crater, dotted with geothermal vents and sulfur deposits, hints at the mountain’s active volcanic past. Standing near the edge, you’ll be able to feel the mountain’s raw, natural energy as wisps of steam rise from the earth. The area also offers unique photo opportunities, with its contrasting colors of vibrant yellow sulfur, red volcanic rock, and lush green surroundings creating a dramatic and unforgettable scene.
Whether you’re there for a day hike, a scenic ropeway ride, or to experience the caldera’s geological wonders, Mt. Adatara is a destination that appeals to all types of adventurers. What’s mroe, during autumn, the mountain comes alive with vibrant red and orange foliage, while winter brings a blanket of snow perfect for skiing and snowshoeing. Combined with the nearby Dake Onsen hot springs, where you can unwind after a day on the mountain, Mt. Adatara is the perfect retreat for nature lovers and anyone looking to immerse themselves in the stunning landscapes of Tohoku. Honestly, I am amazed that Nihonmatsu and Mt. Adatara weren’t on my radar until just recently.
Note that Mt. Adatara is located to the west of central Nihonmatsu. To get there from the eastern part of the city for the main station is, you’ll need to take a relatively long bus ride if you don’t have your own set of wheels. Buses to the mountain depart from Nihonmatsu Station, with schedules typically aligning with the hiking season, but it’s best to check local timetables in advance. If you’re traveling by car, the drive is straightforward and takes around 30 minutes from central Nihonmatsu, with ample parking available near the Adatara Ropeway station. However you get there, Mt. Adatara’s trails and ropeway access make it a convenient and rewarding adventure just outside the city center.
Motorsports on the Ebisu Circuit
Situated high up in the mountains of Nihonmatsu, the Ebisu Circuit is a motorsport enthusiast’s dream. Founded in 1989 by the legendary Kumakubo Nobushige, the circuit was originally intended to give racers a safe and legal place to practice drifting, a motorsport that actually originated in Japan. Over the years, the Ebisu Circuit has grown into an internationally recognized drifter’s pilgrimage that is famous for its unique design and variety of challenging tracks. Today, it’s a magnet for drivers and fans from around the world, who come not only to race but also to experience the adrenaline-charged culture of Japanese motorsports.
What sets Ebisu Circuit apart from other tracks is its configuration of multiple courses, each with its own distinct layout and challenge level. The complex boasts seven individual tracks, ranging from the fast-paced Higashi Course, which features long sweeping curves, to the tight corners and technical demands of the Touge Course, designed to replicate the feel of winding mountain roads. There’s even a “Drift Land” course specifically dedicated to beginners looking to test their drifting skills in a controlled environment. This variety makes Ebisu Circuit accessible to all levels of drivers, from novices trying drifting for the first time to seasoned professionals looking to push their skills to the limit.
One of Ebisu’s biggest annual events is the G1 Grand Prix, where professional and amateur drifters alike come together to compete in a high-stakes, high-speed spectacle that draws motorsport fans from around the world. The G1 Grand Prix, alongside other major drift events like the Ebisu Drift Festival, showcases some of the best talent in the drifting world and provides an up-close look at the skill, precision, and creativity that go into this unique sport. During the Ebisu Drift Festival, for instance, Ebisu Circuit becomes a nonstop hub of excitement, with drivers drifting around the clock over several days — a truly unique experience for both participants and spectators.
For those looking to experience the thrill of drifting without getting behind the wheel, Ebisu Circuit offers an exhilarating Drift Taxi service. This unique experience allows visitors to ride shotgun with a professional driver as they drift around the track, providing a firsthand taste of the intense speed, skill, and control that drifting demands. The Drift Taxi takes you through sharp corners, high-speed turns, and adrenaline-pumping maneuvers that showcase why Ebisu is regarded as one of the world’s premier drift circuits.
It’s a perfect option for people who want to feel the rush of drifting up close, without needing any driving experience themselves. Whether you’re a motorsport fan or just looking for a memorable adventure, the Drift Taxi ride is a once-in-a-lifetime thrill that brings the excitement of Ebisu Circuit to life in a way few other experiences can match.
The Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival
The Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival is held annually from October 4th to 6th and is one of the most vibrant and historic celebrations in Fukushima. With roots going back over 300 years, the spectacle is a true display of the city’s cultural pride and its commitment to preserving traditional Japanese festivals. Known as one of Japan’s three major lantern festivals, the Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival attracts locals and outsides alike who come to see the streets of Nihonmatsu transformed into a dazzling spectacle of light, sound, and community spirit. Each evening, the city fills with the warm glow of lanterns, creating a magical ambiance that makes the festival truly unforgettable.
At the heart of the festival are the massive wooden floats which are decorated with hundreds of glowing paper lanterns. These lantern-lit floats, crafted and maintained by the city’s seven main districts, are stunning works of art that reflect both traditional craftsmanship and local pride. Each float is pulled through the streets by teams of residents who chant and play traditional festival music on drums and flutes, adding an energetic rhythm to the procession. The sight of these towering, illuminated floats moving through Nihonmatsu’s historic streets is breathtaking, creating a timeless scene that captures the spirit of the city.
The Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival is a highly interactive celebration that invites all revelers to become part of the festivities. Unlike with many other celebrations, locals and travelers alike can join in the procession, helping to pull the floats and chanting along with the residents. This hands-on participation fosters a strong sense of community and connection between local and visitors, giving everyone a chance to share in the joy of the occasion. For those who prefer to watch, the streets and main square provide excellent vantage points to enjoy the festival, with plenty of food stalls and vendors offering traditional Japanese festival foods like yakisoba, takoyaki, and sweet treats.
One of the highlights of the festival is the competition between the districts, each of which takes pride in their unique float design and the skill of their musicians and performers. While friendly, the rivalry adds an extra layer of excitement to the event, as each district’s team seeks to outdo the others in both presentation and enthusiasm. This sense of friendly competition energizes the crowd and brings a lively dynamic to the festival as each float makes its way through the streets, accompanied by cheers and applause.
Assuming that the timing works for you, the Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival offers a unique opportunity to experience a traditional festival in an authentic, welcoming atmosphere. The glow of the lanterns, the rhythm of the drums, and the enthusiasm of the crowd come together to create an unforgettable experience that captures the heart of Japanese culture. Whether you’re a festival enthusiast or simply curious about local traditions, the Nihonmatsu Lantern Festival is a must-see event that showcases the city’s heritage and invites you to join in the celebration.
Other Nearby Attractions
In addition to all the spots I’ve featured thus far, there are still many other attractions within Nihonmatsu worth checking out. For example, immediately beside the Ebisu Circuit, you’ll also find the Tohoku Safari Park. If you’re a fan of zoos, you’ll want to swing by here to take a quick rest after your adrenaline-pumping drifting experience at the Ebisu Circuit. Note that Tohoku Safari Park’s grounds are actually housed within the same complex as the Ebisu Circuit, so it can be a bit confusing when trying to look up directions.
Back towards Nihonmatsu’s central areas, there is also the Daishichi Shuzo sake brewery, which was incorporated way back in 1752 and still continues to use traditional brewing methods. When I went, I had the honor of having the current head of the company show me around the place and was privy to his in-depth explanation of the sake brewing process. While you might not get this VIP treatment at Daishichi Shuzo, you can still partake in a tasting of some of the finest sake that I’ve had the chance to sample to date.
Of course, as a huge fan of this part of Fukushima, I simply have to suggest that you consider Aizu-Wakamatsu and Ouchijuku. Reachable via the Ban-Etsu West Line from Koriyama Station, this important stronghold is one of my all-time favorites. From the double helix-shaped Sazaedo temple building to Tsuruga Castle, there is so much to see and do in Aizu-Wakamatsu, so consider diving deeper into Fukushima should you have the time. Likewise, Kitakata to the north of Aizu-Wakamatsu is also great, especially if you’re a ramen connoisseur.
Until next time travelers…
