Today folks, we are going to talk about Takamatsu City. Formerly a castle town found on the northeastern part of Shikoku, one of Japan’s four main islands, Takamatsu used to be the main gateway port from Honshu before the construction of the Great Seto Bridge in 1988. Home to one of the best surviving examples of a seaside castle, as well as one of the top traditional Japanese gardens in the entire country, Takamatsu is a city that is rife with all sorts of sightseeing spots. Moreover, it’s a logistically sound stop on any route that explores Shikoku too, making it an easy addition.
As the capital of Kagawa Prefecture, Takamatsu City has plenty to see and do. Historically, it was the seat of power for the lords who ruled over Sanuki Province during the Edo period (1603–1868). Since the clans in charge changed a few times in the centuries leading up to the Meiji Restoration in 1868, all you really need to know is that it eventually ended up in the hands of the Matsudaira, a branch family of the Tokugawa. Given this, it should come as no surprise that Takamatsu was a special place of strategic importance to the shogunate due to its position on the coast of the Seto Inland Sea.
History aside, nowadays many tourists from all over the world make the trip to Takamatsu City for contemporary art. Thanks to the nearby islands of Naoshima and Teshima, which are home to some truly breathtaking museums and installations, far more travelers drop by Takamatsu these days than in the past due to this ease of access. Alas, I personally feel that the art islands, as well as the Setouchi Triennale — a contemporary art festival held every three years — greatly overshadow the other sites of interest that can be found within the Takamatsu city limits.
At the end of the day though, whether you come to this hidden getaway for its history, culture, shopping, or art-related attractions, a day or two in Takamatsu is highly recommended. The city’s moderate population makes it just the right size — easy enough to walk around without being overwhelming in the way Tokyo can be. Moreover, since the region is well connected to the rest of Shikoku, a trip to Takamatsu City easily fits within a broader outing to Japan’s least-visited island. Trust me when I say you won’t be disappointed when you visit!
How to Get There
Honestly, how one gets themselves to Takamatsu City is going to depend entirely on where you are coming from. Simply put, depending on where you’re starting, the logistics question could be answered in a number of different ways. If you’re heading down to Takamatsu directly from Tokyo, the most logical solution is to simply fly into Takamatsu Airport from Haneda. That said, if you’d prefer to be able to milk your Japan Rail Pass or regional alternative, you’ll need to instead opt to travel down by train to the JR Takamatsu Station via the Great Seto Bridge.
As always, the best way to calculate the most expedient route when traveling in Japan is to simply use a service like Jorudan. At the same time, you’ll need to take a bit of care when plotting a course to a place like Takamatsu because the app will give you the fastest way there if you aren’t careful with the settings. Normally, this is a good thing but if you want to make a pit stop at Okayama Station to see Okayama Castle and Koraku-en, these options aren’t going to show up. So, while the trek to Takamatsu might be straight forward if you’re already on Shikoku, it is not always so simple.
Further increasing the options on the table, Takamatsu City can also be reached via a boat from Himeji and a number of other ferry terminals. We’ll get back to this later on in the article but this is a great way to explore the Seto Inland Sea and catch a glimpse of a side of Japan that only locals ever really bother to appreciate. It’s a leisurely way to enjoy the scenic beauty of the region and its various islands, making it preferred method for anyone planning to visit Takamatsu City.
Lovely Ritsurin Garden
When it comes to must-see spots in Takamatsu City, nothing can top Ritsurin Garden. This sprawling space is one of the finest examples of traditional Japanese landscapes in the entire country. With its carefully manicured pine trees, serene ponds, and elegant teahouses, Ritsurin Garden offers a picturesque escape from the bustle of the city. No matter the season, there’s always something to admire, whether it’s cherry blossoms in the spring, lush greenery in the summer, fiery autumn leaves, or a tranquil blanket of snow in the winter.
For what it’s worth, construction on Ritsurin Garden began back in the early 1600s under the first feudal lords of Sanuki Province. Over the course of more than a century, successive rulers expanded and refined the grounds, gradually shaping the garden into the masterpiece we see today. Under the Matsudaira clan, who presided over the domain, the gardens served as both a retreat and a demonstration of power and refinement. Today, the garden is preserved as a cultural asset and stands as a testament to the artistry of Japan’s classical traditions.
Curiously, Ritsurin Garden is not officially counted among Japan’s so-called “three great gardens,” which include Kenroku-en in Kanazawa, Koraku-en in Okayama, and Kairaku-en in Mito. To be honest, though, many visitors (including myself) feel that Ritsurin Garden more than deserves a place on that list. In fact, when compared to Kairaku-en, which is best known for its plum blossoms, Ritsurin Garden is far more impressive as a year-round destination. With its vast size, multiple walking trails, and ever-changing seasonal scenery, the site could easily be argued as the superior experience.
Getting to Ritsurin Garden is relatively straightforward. The grounds are located within the city center, only a short ride from JR Takamatsu Station. Tourists can either hop on a local bus or take a quick train to Ritsurinkoen-Kitaguchi Station on the Kotoden Line. Entry is quite reasonable too, costing just 410 yen for adults, with discounted rates available for children. Considering the sheer scale and beauty of the garden, the price of admission is a real bargain. Give yourself at least a couple of hours to properly wander the grounds, as there’s simply too much to appreciate in a short visit.
Takamatsu Castle & Tamamo Park
One of the main highlights of Takamatsu is its former seaside fortress, Takamatsu Castle. Once the seat of local power, the remains of this historic stronghold have been transformed into what is now Tamamo Park. Today, the grounds serve as a peaceful public space where visitors can stroll past surviving turrets, stone walls, and seawater moats while enjoying seasonal flowers and greenery. Even though most of the original buildings are long gone, the site still carries a strong sense of history that blends naturally with the calm atmosphere of the park.
For the history buffs, know that the story of Takamatsu Castle goes back to the late 1500s when it was first constructed under the authority of the ruling lords of Sanuki Province. Around five decades later, ownership shifted to the Matsudaira clan at the behest of the Tokugawa shogunate, who expanded and maintained the fortress throughout the following centuries. While many of its structures were lost during the Meiji Restoration and the modernization that came after, the castle remains a symbol of Takamatsu’s role as an important coastal stronghold.
What makes Takamatsu Castle especially noteworthy is that it is one of the best surviving examples of a “sea castle” in Japan. Unlike inland fortresses such as Hikone Castle in Shiga Prefecture, which relied on rivers or dry moats for defense, Takamatsu Castle was ingeniously built to incorporate seawater from the Seto Inland Sea directly into its moat system. This not only created a natural barrier against attackers and allowed for easy access to Takamatsu Port but also gave the fortress a distinctive character that sets it apart from other castles across the country.
Today, visitors to Tamamo Park can explore reconstructed turrets, climb an observation deck where the main keep once stood, enjoy boat rides through the seawater moat, and take in views of the castle ruins surrounded by landscaped gardens. The site is conveniently located just a short walk from JR Takamatsu Station, making it an easy stop for anyone passing through the city. Entry to Tamamo Park is inexpensive, and the grounds are compact enough to be seen in about an hour, though lingering longer is highly recommended for those who want to soak in the tranquil setting.
Feast on Some Sanuki Udon
At least as far as I am concerned, despite not being a fan of noodles, when visiting Takamatsu City one thing you absolutely cannot miss is trying Sanuki Udon. Known for its firm, chewy texture and simple yet satisfying flavor, this regional specialty has become synonymous with Kagawa Prefecture. In fact, many people even refer to the area as “Udon Prefecture,” and with good reason. Whether served hot in a rich broth or cold with a light dipping sauce, Sanuki Udon is the perfect meal to recharge while sightseeing around the city.
As you might guess, Sanuki Udon is considered the local meibutsu, or specialty dish, of Takamatsu and the surrounding region. The noodles are made using high-quality wheat flour, salt, and water, giving them their distinctively springy bite. Traditionally, the broth is light and made from dried sardines, kombu, and soy sauce, which perfectly complements the noodles without overpowering them. Over the years, Sanuki Udon has become a source of pride for locals and an essential culinary experience for anyone visiting the island of Shikoku.
As for where to go, the city is dotted with udon shops ranging from long-established restaurants to humble self-service spots where you build your own meal. If you want a classic introduction, try Udon Baka Ichidai, which is famous for its hearty kama-butter udon. For something more traditional, Yamada-ya is a well-regarded choice with a history stretching back generations. No matter where you go, though, you’ll find that even the smallest neighborhood shop serves up bowls that put most udon elsewhere in Japan to shame.
Central Takamatsu’s Urban District
In addition to its gardens, castles, and udon, Takamatsu City is also home to what is said to be the longest covered shopping arcade in all of Japan. Known as Takamatsu Chuo-dori Shotengai, this massive covered shopping street stretches for nearly three kilometers through the city center, connecting JR Takamatsu Station with many of the main districts and attractions. With its wide pedestrian-friendly layout and roofed design, the arcade is easy to explore no matter the weather, which is why it’s always bustling with both locals and visitors.
Inside Takamatsu Chuo-dori Shotengai, you’ll find a little bit of everything. Trendy fashion boutiques and department stores sit side by side with independent shops, souvenir stands, and specialty food vendors. There are also plenty of restaurants, izakaya, and cafés, meaning you can easily spend hours eating, shopping, browsing, and people-watching. Whether you’re looking for a pair of shoes, a regional snack to take home, or just a casual spot to grab a drink, the arcade has something for everyone and showcases the everyday energy of Takamatsu life.
For travelers, the shopping arcade also functions as a great base of operations. Since it links directly with JR Takamatsu Station and stretches toward Tamamo Park and other attractions, it’s hard to miss and even harder not to pass through multiple times during your stay. It’s especially lively in the evenings when locals come out to shop and dine, giving the area a warm, welcoming atmosphere. While sightseeing might bring you to Takamatsu for the beautiful gardens, castles, or art, spending time wandering through this shopping street is what will make you feel most in step with the city itself.
The Views from Yashima
One of the best places to take in the beauty of the Seto Inland Sea is from Yashima, a flat-topped mountain that rises just east of central Takamatsu. The summit offers sweeping panoramas of the sea and its countless islands, making it one of the most breathtaking viewpoints in the region. On a clear day, you can see as far as the Great Seto Bridge, as well as the ships moving gracefully through the calm waters below. It’s the kind of view that captures the essence of Shikoku’s coastal charm and is well worth the trip.
In addition to the scenery, Yashima is also home to Yashima-ji, one of the 88 temples on Shikoku’s famous pilgrimage route. The temple itself dates back more than a thousand years and carries with it a sense of quiet reverence that contrasts nicely with the dramatic vistas outside. Pilgrims in their white robes often visit the site, adding to the spiritual atmosphere of the mountaintop. For travelers, this combination of history, religion, and natural beauty makes Yashima more than just a lookout point — it’s a place to slow down and reflect.
On the lower slopes of Yashima, you’ll also find Shikoku-mura, an open-air museum that preserves traditional buildings from across the island. The collection includes farmhouses, storehouses, and even historic bridges that have been relocated to the site, allowing visitors to step back into rural life from centuries past. With its wooded setting and careful preservation, Shikoku-mura feels less like a museum and more like wandering through a village frozen in time, making it an excellent complement to a visit up the mountain.
Getting to Yashima is relatively straightforward. A bus from JR Takamatsu Station will take you most of the way up, and from there it’s just a short walk to the observation area and temple grounds. Alternatively, the more adventurous can choose to hike to the top, which makes the views from above feel even more rewarding. Once at the summit, plan to spend a little time wandering the different lookout points, as each offers its own unique angle on the shimmering Seto Inland Sea and its endless scattering of islands.
Out on the Seto Inland Sea
In addition to the famed art islands of Naoshima and Teshima, there are also a number of other islands in the Seto Inland Sea that can be reached via Takamatsu Port. The most notable ones are Ogijima, Megijima, and of course, Shodoshima. Especially for those of you who are taking it slow and spending more than just a few hours scant in Takamatsu, these make for excellent day-trip side adventures. Below, you’ll find some details on each of these hidden gems.
- Ogijima
A small, charming island known for its picturesque fishing village atmosphere, Ogijima is perfect for those who want to experience a slower pace of life. Narrow lanes wind between old wooden houses, and the friendly community makes it a warm and welcoming stop. It’s a great place to wander on foot and soak in the everyday rhythms of life in the Setouchi region. - Megijima
Sometimes called “Ogre Island,” Megijima is steeped in folklore and tied to the famous Japanese legend of Momotaro. Visitors can explore caves said to be the ogres’ lair and enjoy scenic views from the island’s higher points. The beaches here are also popular in summer, making it a nice mix of myth, nature, and seaside relaxation. - Shodoshima
By far the largest of the local islands, Shodoshima is famous for its olive groves, soy sauce production, and dramatic coastal scenery. The island offers everything from hiking in the Kankakei Gorge to visiting traditional soy sauce breweries, not to mention its Mediterranean-inspired atmosphere thanks to the olives. You’ll want a full day, if not more, to properly experience all that Shodoshima has to offer.
It’s also worth noting that you can travel from Takamatsu Port to Shodoshima and then continue onward to Hyogo Prefecture via Himeji Port. This route makes for an especially rewarding journey, as instead of simply hopping on a train back north to Honshu, you can turn the transfer itself into part of the adventure by stopping to explore Shodoshima along the way. The ferry ride across the Seto Inland Sea is relaxing in its own right, offering a chance to sit back, breathe in the salty air, and take in the scenery of the countless islands scattered across the horizon.
Other Nearby Attractions
As mentioned earlier, Takamatsu’s location in the northeast of Shikoku makes it a convenient hub. From here, you can either head back to Honshu or continue deeper into Shikoku itself. One natural extension to a Takamatsu itinerary is Shodoshima, which we touched on before. While the island really deserves a standalone article of its own, it’s worth briefly noting that it’s famous for its Mediterranean vibe, olive groves, soy sauce breweries, and the dramatic cliffs of Kankakei Gorge. If you have a little more time, Shodoshima is easily one of the best additions to a Takamatsu-based trip.
Heading west from Takamatsu, you’ll find some of Kagawa’s most celebrated attractions. Chief among them is Kompirasan in Kotohira, a Shinto shrine complex dedicated to seafaring that sits halfway up a mountain. To reach the main hall, you’ll need to climb over 1,300 stone steps, but the sense of accomplishment — along with the views — makes the effort well worth it. Another noteworthy spot is Takaya Shrine, perched dramatically atop Mt. Inazumi. Often called the “Shrine in the Sky,” it offers spectacular views of the Seto Inland Sea and has become a favorite among photographers and Instagrammers alike.
Finally, for those who want to venture even farther, Takamatsu is well connected by rail to the rest of Shikoku. You can board a limited express train that runs all the way to Imabari and Matsuyama in Ehime Prefecture, where you’ll find attractions like the historic Dogo Onsen, one of Japan’s oldest hot spring baths. Alternatively, you can connect southward toward Kochi Prefecture, famous for its rugged coastline, fresh seafood, and more off-the-beaten-path appeal. Whether you’re sticking close to Kagawa or using Takamatsu as a springboard to see more of Shikoku, the city’s strategic location makes it the perfect starting point.
Until next time travelers…
